tag:thisoldchef.org,2005:/blogs/blog-recipes?p=2Blog & Recipes2024-03-23T09:00:00-04:00This Old Cheffalsetag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411082024-03-23T09:00:00-04:002024-03-23T15:33:07-04:00Memories of a Post-Surgery Easter Dinner (Baked Ham, Gratin of Potatoes with Gruyère, Lima Beans, and Cornbread)<p><i>Just checking on prior posts for Easter nuggets to share and came across this one from 2016... The arrival of Charlie's new hip helped me realize that even the best traditions need some tweaking when under duress!</i></p><p>So. He was home... safely... using a walker, but home!<br><br>And it was Good Friday.<br><br>So I thought, for Sunday, it would be kind to do a vaguely Southern Comfort Easter Dinner. We had:</p><p>A hickory-smoked Carando ham - our favorite grocery store ham - just ditch the packet of glaze...</p><p style="text-align:center;"> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a60e953aa8f9529028b1f82751ee013dfddbf1e4/original/the-easter-ham-2016.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDk1eDQxMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_center border_" alt="" height="410" width="495" /><p style="text-align:center;"><a class="no-pjax" href="http://carando.com/recipes/glazed-spiral-ham" data-imported="1"><i>http://carando.com/recipes/glazed-spiral-ham</i></a></p><p>After taking the ham out to rest, I deglazed the roasting pan with a splash of white wine. This is less a gravy and more of a "moistener." Be aware: because it's ham, this sauce is very, very salty, so use just a bit... Or, if you want a lot, you'll need to add some unsalted chicken stock, or water, or even cream... Just be aware of the salt level!</p><p>Also, some delicious, long-simmered (in chicken stock with onions and smoked salt) lima beans...</p><p>Gratin of potatoes and Gruyère...</p><p style="text-align:center;"> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b4c572f9611b8c3cbbc92bcd4913ad42711521f4/original/potatoes-au-gratin-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDg2eDMwNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_center border_" alt="" height="305" width="486" /><p> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/happy-easter-ham-potatoes-au-gratin-and-asparagus" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="">https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/happy-easter-ham-potatoes-au-gratin-and-asparagus</a></p><p>Harriet's cornbread...</p><p style="text-align:center;"> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/d9b362ccc31ba33663dc6e4cac8c90836d5bde2f/original/cornbread-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDg4eDQyMiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_center border_" alt="" height="422" width="488" /><p> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/by-popular-demand-cornbread-greens-black-eyed-peas-and-italian-sausage" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents=""><i>https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/by-popular-demand-cornbread-greens-black-eyed-peas-and-italian-sausage</i></a></p><p>He still couldn't drink, so we had sparkling cider, compliments of our former neighbors Cindy and Bruce...</p><p>And feeling very grateful that he arose from the hospital bed!!!</p><p style="text-align:center;"> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/1a4efd22ae36aea3c5778e9439a0babd6d8eb19f/original/easter-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjU1eDUxNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_center border_" alt="" height="516" width="655" /><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412712024-03-23T08:30:00-04:002024-03-23T15:29:20-04:00Happy Easter 2024!<p><span style="color:#000000;"><i>I'm not at all sure how this happened... but it's Easter... already!</i></span></p><p><span style="color:#000000;"><i>I hope you and yours have a wonderful day together, and, to help make Sunday (and the days thereafter) a bit easier, here are some of This Old Chef's absolute favorites, starting with my very first Easter offering!</i></span></p><p><i>Happy Easter!!!</i></p><p>When I was a little boy, Easter was a major holiday for my family. And it wasn't just the candy that magically appeared in the baskets and shiny grass nests we hid all over the house…</p><p>I was fascinated and moved by the Holy Week stories and the rituals of the church services. But I won't pretend food wasn't a, if not the, centerpiece. We were an Easter ham family... and though ham rarely figures in my cooking these days (except for prosciutto), we are still a ham-at-Easter household.</p><p>Another part of the Easter feast that I really miss is the Pascal Lamb Cake. Let me explain…</p><p>My father’s mother was the prioress for a community of cloistered nuns. Essentially she did all the talking to the outside world... since they couldn't. And one of the ways they thanked her every year was a delicious cake... lamb-shaped… covered in coconut.</p><p>And, since she spent Easter with us… !!!!!</p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/cc00ce61c9f4c615a83bfd06c361611a7ce9db6e/original/pascal-lamb-cake-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDE1eDIyMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_center border_" alt="" height="223" width="415" /><p>Since neither of us works for baking nuns, dessert has slipped out of the equation... but the ham remains.</p><p>I don't use Coca-Cola.... or pineapples... or ginger-snap crumbs... or any of the other disturbing (to me) additions to ham. I simply buy a good quality city ham… one with as little added water as possible... and bake it according to the directions on the wrapper.</p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/fc4ddb85b09ac2e0d5eac883c3b2f390ab73764e/original/easter-ham-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDM5eDI4MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_center border_" alt="" height="282" width="439" /><p>About 45 minutes before it’s done, I glaze it with some mustard mixed with brown sugar. There's always a green spring vegetable... this year asparagus simply steamed, or grilled.</p><p>And then... the potatoes. Here's where the splurge happens. Though a truly wonderful cook who taught me a lot, my mother did partake in the convenience foods of the day, including packaged, scalloped potatoes. Or the other version… potatoes au gratin.</p><p>Not surprisingly, I make my own. And they couldn't be simpler or more decadently delicious. Just thinly slice enough peeled potatoes to fit in whatever baking dish you're using… butter the dish… add a layer of potatoes… sprinkle with salt and pepper and a little flour… then keep repeating that layer until you finish the potatoes. Then pour in as much milk… half-and-half… or CREAM... as needed, to just barely reach the top of the potatoes.</p><p>Cover the dish with foil and bake in a 350° oven for about an hour or until as tender as you like. (I like a little bit of firmness in mine… so you may want to cook them a bit longer.)</p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b4c572f9611b8c3cbbc92bcd4913ad42711521f4/original/potatoes-au-gratin-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTAzeDMyNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_center border_" alt="" height="324" width="503" /><p>Now… here's my variation that takes these over the top… On each layer, I add a hefty sprinkling of grated Gruyère cheese with a tiny pinch of nutmeg… And I take the foil off for the last 15 minutes to let the cheese brown. Just before you serve, shower the potatoes with snipped chives… the green is not only beautiful, but the delicate spring onion flavor helps to cut the richness of the potatoes. Believe me, this is not a dish for daily consumption, but every now and then...</p><p><span style="color:#950707;">PS. Yes, you can add cooked bacon, or grated onions, or whatever your family tradition calls for... but just once try these "plain".... You may forego embellishments from now on! And this is one of those times when using REAL Gruyère is the only way to go.</span></p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/1fed7f44d7be6bba575daf3c1e5a730ae10d681d/original/easter-dinner-2012-ham-asparagus-potatoes-au-gratin-gruyere-copy-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDE4eDQ4NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_center border_" alt="" height="486" width="418" /><p><span style="color:#000000;">Have a wonderful Easter, everyone! Celebrate Spring, renewal, rebirth...</span></p><p><span style="color:#000000;">And everyone you love.</span></p><p><span style="color:#000000;">And cook something delicious!!!!</span></p><p><span style="color:#000000;"><i> </i></span></p><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411692024-03-23T08:05:00-04:002024-03-23T15:26:26-04:00It's Hamapalooza! Starting with Ham, Quinoa, and Potato Dauphinoise Burgers with Lime Mayo, Arugula, and Cabbage Salad<p>While I realize that not everyone lives in a home where ham is the ONLY acceptable Easter dinner, I am not one of them. Easter may be the only time I make a ham, but there is never any question about the dinner centerpiece for that holiday. </p><p>While I love the Easter meal, I get even more excited by figuring out ways to use the rest of the ham. And since there are usually just two of us, there is a LOT of ham. </p><p>Here is the first of a few of This Old Chef’s tried and true HAMAPALOOZA favorites...</p><p>Yep, you heard me.</p><p>I diced some ham.</p><p>I diced some of the Easter pommes dauphinoise or, in American, au gratin. (<a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blog-recipes/blog/6141271/happy-easter-2024" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="Recipe Here...">Recipe Here...</a><span>)</span></p><p>I added a bit of Dijon and mayo... an egg and some bread crumbs... some salt and pepper.</p><p>And then I remembered I had some cooked quinoa, so I tossed some of that in as well.</p><p>Formed "burgers." Coated them in cracker crumbs. Fried them in EVOO.</p><p>Made a sauce of mayo, chives, and some lime juice.</p><p>Served them with my grandmother's classic cabbage salad (click below)... and some undressed arugula.</p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/cabbage-salad" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="Cabbage Salad">Cabbage Salad</a></p><p>Wow. These are stellar.</p><p style="text-align:center;"> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4580d7dea15c70ac7568524dd2c5f493e9f3a5b8/original/ham-potato-quinoa-burgers-with-cabbage-salad-2-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjkxeDUxNyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="517" width="691" /><p> </p><p>I just want to remind you...</p><p>Your Easter ham is a treasure trove, not a burden.</p><p>PLAY WITH YOUR FOOD!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/65960112024-03-23T01:00:00-04:002024-03-23T14:59:15-04:00Stock Up for Hamapalooza!<p>This is truly not the glamorous part of cooking... but it’s a really valuable one. </p><p>If your family is in the Ham-at-Easter camp, on Easter Monday, you get ready to break down all that's left of that pig taking up space in your fridge. </p><p>First, carefully remove all the meat you can. Wrap and freeze the bone (for my absolute favorite soup... split pea, recipe <a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/bonnie-clyde-yes-split-pea-soup" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="here">here</a>).</p><p>Next, and this is the not fun part, trim the meat of all the skin, excess fat, connective tissue, and odd gnarly bits. Bag and refrigerate the meat (as you continue to plan your very own Hamapalooza).</p><p> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/fadc3c1cc40f27f170da0287c7b6c0525750ea0f/original/ham-stock.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /><p>Now, we don’t like sweet sticky glazes... we like ham. So I take all of the trimmings including skin, and simmer it in a pan with water, and any of the gelatinous liquid I saved from the reheating of the ham, until I have a wildly ham-flavored liquid. You can add this to soups, rice dishes, stews - anything where ham is an ingredient. It can also be frozen. </p><p>If you do like glazes, you can omit the trimmings that are coated or you can rinse them well before using. Just remember, your ham stock will taste a little or a lot like the glazing ingredients.</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61409642024-03-22T01:30:00-04:002024-03-23T15:18:28-04:00Ham 'n' Cheese Crêpes with Peas 'n' Dijon! A Hamapalooza Favorite!<p><i>This is one of those dishes people write to me about all the time! You got this... I've even laid out my learning curve so you can see where you'll go with just a little practice. Enjoy!</i></p><p>So I froze the hambone, knowing full well that there was still plenty of recoverable meat...</p><p>And today I decided to recover it...</p><p>I thawed the bone, stripped the remaining meat, and cut it into very small dice. Then I made a very basic velouté with butter, flour, and chicken stock. Off the heat I added a tablespoon of Dijon, a cup of shredded cheddar, a cup of frozen peas that I'd thawed in hot tap water, and the ham. And...</p><p>OMG... I could eat this mixture by the spoonful!!!</p><p>But I won't, because I also made a batch of basic savory crêpes.</p><p><i>(N.B. The link below will take you to a good how-to on the process, but - be kind - I've learned a lot since 2012!)</i></p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/time-machine-chicken-crepes" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="">https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/time-machine-chicken-crepes</a></p><p>I rolled each crêpe around a heaping tablespoon of the filling, then placed them all in a buttered baking dish. I had reserved about 1/2 cup of the velouté (without the ham and peas), and thinned it with another 1/3 cup of the stock.</p><p>I poured it over the crêpes, topped it with a bit of Parmesan, put it under the broiler for a few minutes until browned and bubbling, then turned off the broiler, turned the oven to 350°, and heated it all for about 15 minutes. I served it with a shower of chives and chive blossoms.</p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4f4371f28f962835d2a13df246c6a70af65f0ebe/original/ham-n-cheese-crepes-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6ODAweDU5OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="598" width="800" /><p>This is the Easter that keeps on giving! These crêpes were incredible...</p><p>And of course, this rich, flavorful ham now costs about $.50 a serving... and I still haven't made soup!!!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61409602024-03-21T23:10:00-04:002024-03-23T15:31:07-04:00Asian Stir-fry with Ham, Cauliflower and Scallions (And No Take Out!)<p>A while back, when I was still learning my way around an Easter ham, I decided to head in an Eastern direction...</p><p>Asian food.</p><p>Pork. Pork. Pork. Pork. Ham.</p><p>Yes?</p><p>I cubed a cup of ham.... and now that I'm nearer to the bone, it's no longer spiral-sliced, so I can cut thicker cubes. I took about half a head of cauliflower, separated and cut it into small florets. Then I chopped a small onion. Minced 4 cloves of garlic. And got out bottles of soy, sriracha, and sherry.</p><p>In a very hot wok, I heated some peanut oil, tossed in the cauliflower and let it start to brown. Then I lowered the heat, put a lid over the wok... and cooked it until it started to soften but was still quite crisp. Then I set the cauliflower aside in a bowl.</p><p>I added a bit more oil, turned the heat way up again, and stir-fried the ham cubes until they started to brown... then added the ham to the cauliflower. By now there was some oil in the bottom of the bowl, so I poured that into the wok and stir-fried the onion until it started to brown, tossed in the garlic, tossed in the ham mixture... added a good shot of soy, and sriracha, and sherry... and let it all stir-fry for a minute or two.</p><p>Because I wanted it a bit thicker, I tossed in a slurry made from a tablespoon of cornstarch and 2 tablespoons of water. This rich, gorgeous sauce thickened immediately, and I spooned portions on top of some brown rice... topped it with sliced scallions... </p><p style="text-align:center;"> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/98a9317d5a12e0b1f668f08eca76f4b8cc35b354/original/asian-stir-fry-with-ham-cauliflower-scallions-on-brown-rice-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTA3eDQyNyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_center border_" alt="" height="427" width="507" /><p> </p><p>And this year's Easter ham rolls on! This dish is incredibly flavorful, you won't need a huge portion...</p><p>And you won't be hungry half an hour later!!!</p><p>PS. We're now down to just over $3 per meal... and $1.50 per serving.</p><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411092024-03-20T23:20:00-04:002024-03-23T15:33:07-04:00Ham "Chili" with Heirloom Beans<p>Eanie Beanie, Chili Beanie, The Hamapalooza Spirits Are About to Speak!</p><p>I had some gorgeous heirloom beans from Deb in L.A. ...</p><p>Good Mother Stallards (on the left) and Snow Caps (on the right)…</p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/cec098e88145b4ea5521ea5c76cc5f1a0f6abb1e/original/heirloom-beans.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTk4eDI0NyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_center border_" alt="" height="247" width="598" /><p>I also had some absolutely delicious Easter ham...</p><p>And some perfect avocados that were on a huge sale...</p><p>A variation on chili seemed an interesting way to go!</p><p>I sautéed a chopped onion, two chopped peppers (red and yellow) in EVOO... then added some microplaned garlic and good old-fashioned chili powder. To this, I added some of the ham gravy from our Easter dinner...</p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/happy-easter-ham-potatoes-au-gratin-and-asparagus" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents=""><i>https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/happy-easter-ham-potatoes-au-gratin-and-asparagus</i></a></p><p>... and a box of Pomi crushed tomatoes.</p><p>When this tasted good (!) I added chopped Easter ham, a little smoked paprika, and some extra dried oregano and toasted ground cumin to accent the oregano and cumin already in the chili powder...</p><p>... and let it bubble gently.</p><p>The gorgeous beans were also bubbling gently away (in separate pots) with just salt and water (ignore all foolish received wisdom about not salting beans while they cook... really).</p><p>Also: I'm a recent convert to the no-soak method! Beans. Salt. Water. Bring them to the boil, lower the heat a bit, and simmer until tender. No need to decide 24 hours before you want them!!!</p><p>Combine the beans and the chili... Let them get friendly... And add a hefty (or not) amount of your fave hot sauce. Serve in heated bowls with scallions, cheese, avocado, and sour cream... Any or all!!!</p><p>And, rest assured, this is not old used Easter ham....believe me!</p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/f7e10179c4d6adf3622d8e8eaec2c334a8cd3d5f/original/ham-chili-with-heirloom-beans.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjgweDY1MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_center border_" alt="" height="653" width="680" /><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/65778732024-03-16T09:25:00-04:002024-03-16T17:34:59-04:00Chicken Breasts with Bacon Cream, Colcannon, and Soda Bread Rolls<p>So… Last year, Charlie wanted chicken on St. Patrick’s Day, a radical deviation as salmon has been our go-to for years now. On went the thinking cap. Chicken is very Irish… as is cream. Then I started thinking about a variation on one of our oldest favorites: Craig Claiborne’s chicken breasts in a tarragon cream. Yes, it’s very ‘70s. So sue me. (A link to my riff on this classic is below.) But tarragon is not in the garden yet and it’s not reeeeeeally Irish, so...</p><p>I had a scathingly brilliant idea. There are few ingredients more Irish than… BACON!</p><p>First, I slowly cooked 3 rashers of bacon until crisp. Removed them, poured the glorious fat into a bowl, and deglazed the pan with a splash of white wine. I poured that into another bowl. Chopped up the cooled bacon. </p><p>I salted, peppered, and floured 2 chicken breasts. In the bacon pan, I sautéed 1 chopped shallot in the bacon fat, with a tablespoon of unsalted butter. Then in went the breasts, along with about 1/2C low-sodium chicken stock, and the deglazing liquid. I covered the pan, turned the heat to low, and cooked for about 20 minutes, checking frequently, adding stock if/when needed, until the chicken JUST reached 160°-165°. </p><p>I removed the breasts, keeping them warm in a 325° oven, while I finished the sauce with about 1/2 C cream. I let that simmer for a few moments, added half the chopped bacon, sliced the chicken (‘70s, remember), fanned them out on the hot plates, spooned the sauce over the top, scattered with chives, and the rest of the bacon, added a scoop of colcannon (see recipe below), and we proceeded to have a truly wonderful meal.</p><p> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/9f2a000b5e3d6d46767252aa3849a874d170883a/original/chicken-with-bacon-cream-and-colcannon.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /><p> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong>But wait! There's more!</strong></p><p> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8d866ad51b4b3b1b0090408cd9c7ea74fe7bb10a/original/soda-bread-rolls-1.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /><p>You really have to make my new favorite dinner rolls: make soda bread dough (<a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blog-recipes/blog/it-s-always-time-for-soda-bread" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="recipe here">recipe here</a>) and instead of one large loaf, make 8-10 balls, slice the tops, and bake as usual. I would check the oven a little earlier since the rolls are so much smaller than the large loaf. You’re looking for an internal temp of 180°. Let rest at least 10 minutes before serving... with LOTS of great Irish butter.</p><p> </p><p> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/e68029bba9d436417f16e6c18dc08aa9ce202849/original/soda-bread-rolls-2.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /><p> </p><p style="text-align:center;">Will I serve us bacon infused cream at every meal? No. </p><p style="text-align:center;">Would I, if I could? You betcha! </p><p style="text-align:center;">This was incredible.... even if it wasn’t the salmon I planned! </p><p> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/f776b56949663fae4ddc5ca43d010c7cff140d5f/original/the-table.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /><p> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Colcannon</strong></p><p>3-4 lbs. Russet potatoes, peeled and cut in similarly sized chunks </p><p>¼ to ½ Head green cabbage, cored and sliced thin </p><p>Salt and pepper </p><p>Heavy cream </p><p>Chives, minced or cut </p><p>1. Place potatoes in a large pot, cover with cold, salted water, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat so that water remains at a high simmer, but not a high rolling boil. Cook until potatoes are done (soft but not falling apart). Drain. </p><p>2. At the same time, steam sliced cabbage until it starts to soften, but not until it gets mushy. </p><p>3. Use a ricer or a food mill on the potatoes. Begin to add warmed cream, slowly. I realize I’ve given no amount on the cream... but it changes completely depending on the specific potatoes and your personal preference... just don’t put in so much cream that they get soupy. You can always add a bit more. And resist the temptation to whip the potatoes endlessly. Taste for, and add, salt and pepper. </p><p>4. Fold in the cabbage and add chives. Colcannon can also be made with shredded kale in place of the cabbage, and minced scallions in place of the chives. Yukon Gold potatoes can be substituted, but the Russets give a much more “potato-y” taste.</p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Chicken Tarragon and Morels</strong></p><p>For the <a class="no-pjax" href="https://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/chicken-tarragon-and-morels" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="basic tarragon recipe">basic tarragon recipe</a>, see this version of mine, which was published in <i>Food & Wine</i> magazine... </p><p> </p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/chicken-tarragon-and-morels" data-link-type="url" contents="" target="_blank"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/dcf591e7dfd6acf2cc065e411f8b993129405455/original/chicken-with-tarragon-and-morels.jpg/!!/undefined/b:W1sic2l6ZSIsImxhcmdlIl1d.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" alt="" /></a><p>As you can see, this variation contains mushrooms, which might be a fun addition to today’s recipe, too!</p><p> </p><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/62494782024-03-16T04:10:00-04:002024-03-16T17:32:00-04:00St. Patrick's Day 2024 - Home Is Where The Feast Is!<p>Happy St. Patrick's Day! </p><p>I know, I know... but the family names are McCann, Kavanagh, McCullough, Shannon, Murphy, O'Gara... </p><p>Clearly... I have no choice.</p><p> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/086c8214a546ed36a7e3d12c519607b5f4b557e3/original/mccann-family-crest.jpg/!!/undefined/b:W1sic2l6ZSIsIm1lZGl1bSJdXQ==.jpg" class="size_m justify_center border_" /><p>In these rollercoaster times, we're at least back to traveling a bit more and enjoy spending time with those we love! OK, I confess I always prefer being at home to being out and about. But what a perfect time to be together, stay safe, and and eat well... something perhaps from some of our Irish favorites below…</p><p>This one is a re-post from a year when, in a break from our customary Paddy's Day Salmon, we had a roast chicken utilizing the miraculously easy Mark Bittman technique: </p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/roast-chicken" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/roast-chicken">https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/roast-chicken</a></p><p> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b0338ae6be9986ab3927fe146017675161485a02/original/roast-french-chicken-2.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /><p> </p><p>With colcannon... </p><p>(Serves 6-8... or just me!) </p><p>This is my version… not totally traditional... </p><p> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/87dedafbb141e709111e303ce6ff302eae569699/original/colcannon.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /><p> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Colcannon</strong></p><p>3-4 lbs. Russet potatoes, peeled and cut in similarly sized chunks </p><p>¼ to ½ Head green cabbage, cored and sliced thin </p><p>Salt and pepper </p><p>Heavy cream </p><p>Chives, minced or cut </p><p>1. Place potatoes in a large pot, cover with cold, salted water, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat so that water remains at a high simmer, but not a high rolling boil. Cook until potatoes are done (soft but not falling apart). Drain. </p><p>2. At the same time, steam sliced cabbage until it starts to soften, but not until it gets mushy. </p><p>3. Use a ricer or a food mill on the potatoes. Begin to add warmed cream, slowly. I realize I’ve given no amount on the cream... but it changes completely depending on the specific potatoes and your personal preference... just don’t put in so much cream that they get soupy. You can always add a bit more. And resist the temptation to whip the potatoes endlessly. Taste for, and add, salt and pepper. </p><p>4. Fold in the cabbage and add chives. Colcannon can also be made with shredded kale in place of the cabbage, and minced scallions in place of the chives. Yukon Gold potatoes can be substituted, but the Russets give a much more “potato-y” taste. </p><p>Asparagus (barely softened in simmering salted water)... and...</p><p> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/eb71eae908992e1de372cbe56b778dbb9af4cce5/original/best-soda-bread.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /><p> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Caraway Soda Bread</strong></p><p>Simple caraway soda bread with no raisins, no sugar and, shockingly... NO FAT! </p><p>At least until you spread the butter on top... </p><p> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/72267d6e34301c4bb58327ab3e5b766a43aa411b/original/buttered-soda-bread-with-soft-scrambled-eggs.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/irish-soda-bread-for-st-paddy-s" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/irish-soda-bread-for-st-paddy-s">https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/irish-soda-bread-for-st-paddy-s</a></p><p> </p><p>Plus a lovely One Hope 2011 Pinot Noir, a perfect fire, and the perfect dinner (and life) companion. </p><p>Life is good, even through struggle (how much more Irish can you get?!?!?!?)...</p><p>For dessert, This Old Chef suggests this incredible Chocolate Shortbread from chef Bob Chambers... </p><p> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/295a5a4079205d97faf22510971c734d61ab6689/original/chocolate-shortbread-copy.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /><p> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Chocolate Shortbread Hearts</strong></p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/did-someone-say-chocolate-chocolate-shortbread" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/did-someone-say-chocolate-chocolate-shortbread">https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/did-someone-say-chocolate-chocolate-shortbread</a></p><p>Or...</p><p>An an elegant end to any meal and one of our all-time favorites, Chocolate Pudding with Cointreau... </p><p> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b2703fe845dcd39121fcc0b1d09c015a546b1f4f/original/davids-chocolate-pudding.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /><p> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Chocolate Pudding with Cointreau</strong></p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/chocolate-pudding-with-cointreau" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/chocolate-pudding-with-cointreau">https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/chocolate-pudding-with-cointreau</a></p><p>Happy St. Patrick's Day!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412672024-03-16T03:15:00-04:002024-03-16T17:19:53-04:00Irish Soda Bread for St. Paddy's!<p> </p><p>Following a large number of requests... I'm going to repost a recipe for soda bread today...</p><p>Bear with me... and be prepared, I like a far more traditional recipe... no fat and no sugar or raisins...</p><p> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/2dff45efa978319ee09b62958b52caac1885685e/original/soda-breads-1a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzY3eDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="767" /><p> </p><p>So... while I have a few minutes...</p><p>4C AP flour… or 3½ C AP flour and ½C whole wheat</p><p>1t salt</p><p>1t baking soda</p><p>1T caraway seeds</p><p>1½ -1¾C buttermilk (or... if you want it richer, whole milk soured with about a tablespoon of sour cream and a splash of white vinegar)</p><p>Combine all ingredients and mix... but just barely. (For fun I sometimes throw a handful of rolled oats into the dough.) Mound the dough onto a well-greased cookie sheet... or, if you have a Silpat, this is a great time to use it... and slice a deep cross in the top (to let the fairies out!).</p><p>Bake for 15 minutes in a preheated 450° oven. Lower the heat to 400° and bake another 20-30 minutes.</p><p>Now trust me on this: you need to let it cool for at least 15 minutes on a rack... no matter how much you want eat it right away. But when the 15 minutes are up... slice away, slather it with good unsalted Irish butter... sprinkle with good sea salt... and thank the gods that there will always be an Ireland!</p><p style="text-align:center;"> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/9e469e3552ef44013cee2330bc04b649fac59ff4/original/soda-bread-and-soft-scrambled-eggs-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjI2eDUxNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="516" width="626" /><p> </p><p>The day after, this bread will be very dry... but what a good excuse to toast it and add even more butter!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412202024-03-16T00:20:00-04:002024-03-16T17:34:59-04:00The Salmon Are Always Running... in Ireland!<p><i>For your consideration... A St. Patrick's Day flashback from a few years ago: salmon three ways!</i></p><p>It's that time of year again!</p><p>You're either really Irish, or you wish you were!</p><p>So do yourself a favor, eschew the supposedly traditional corned beef, et al., and look back to The Auld Sod <i>(or to This Auld Chef!!!)</i> for some more authentically Irish treats!</p><p>Case in point: fish 'n' chips may be ubiquitous in Irish pubs (and I do love them), but nothing says "Ireland" like a perfect slab o' salmon with some crispy or creamy potatoes on the side.</p><p>For a deliciously light, cool and refreshing meal, try my Poached Salmon with Basil Mayonnaise on a bed of arugula with sautéed cubed potatoes...</p><p style="text-align:center;"> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/9e7ec97f74854a23e33e165dd58a10e06f6cc452/original/poached-salmon-with-basil-mayonnaise-on-a-bed-of-arugula-with-satueed-potato-dice.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDg5eDQxOCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="418" width="489" /><p> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Poached Salmon with Basil Mayonnaise, Sautéed Cubed Potatoes and Arugula Salad</strong></p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/poached-salmon" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="Poached Salmon with Basil Mayonnaise, Sauteed Cubed Potatoes, and Arugula Salad"><i>Poached Salmon with Basil Mayonnaise, Sauteed Cubed Potatoes, and Arugula Salad</i></a></p><p>For a heartier St. Patrick's Day dinner, you will love this Salmon with Pinot Noir Sauce, Colcannon and Asparagus...</p><p style="text-align:center;"> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/bad8bb0c7f598650e44d96e5074261207fe22645/original/st-patrick-s-day-dinner-1-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDg3eDM3MSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="371" width="487" /><p> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Salmon with Butter and Pinot Noir Sauce, Colcannon and Asparagus</strong></p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/an-irish-feast-sauteed-salmon-with-pinot-noir-sauce-colcannon-and-asparagus" data-link-type="url" data-imported="1">Sauteed Salmon with Pinot Noir Sauce, Colcannon, and Asparagus</a></p><p>And here's a particularly wicked salmon preparation that is both tasty and indulgent! We love this Prosciutto-Wrapped Salmon with Succotash and Sautéed Potatoes...</p><p style="text-align:center;"> </p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/362ca3f8243b5adebc57785946bb213eda559168/original/prosciutto-wrapped-salmon-with-succotash-and-sauteed-potatoes-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDU2eDUwNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="506" width="456" /><p> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Prosciutto-Wrapped Salmon with Succotash and Sautéed Potatoes</strong></p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/homecoming-prosciutto-wrapped-salmon-with-succotash-and-potatoes" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/homecoming-prosciutto-wrapped-salmon-with-succotash-and-potatoes">Prosciutto-wrapped Salmon with Succotash and Potatoes</a></p><p><i>(Be sure to spray a little EVOO in the pan before that ham 'n' salmon package goes on the heat!)</i></p><p>So have a wonderful day - <strong>Sláinte!</strong> - and try to look beyond what you've been told are Irish foods suitable for St. Patrick's Day. The Emerald Isle has some of the greatest natural resources in the world. Employ them! Enjoy them!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412612023-12-11T11:55:00-05:002024-03-16T17:17:20-04:00It's Chocolate. It's Shortbread. It's Christmas!<p>Stop What You're Doing and Make These!!!</p><p>Seriously. I love all the traditional Christmas cookies. But I'm telling you: make chocolate shortbread and bring those elves to their knees!</p><p>These come from Chef Extraordinaire Bob Chambers. You will never, I guarantee, eat another chocolate cookie without thinking about these chocolate shortbreads...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8bd5b4332f56e6c0277508a9ad675eddddc5bc91/original/chocolate-shortbread-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDU1eDM3MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="372" width="455" /></p><p style="text-align:center;"> <strong>Chocolate Shortbread</strong></p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Yield: Approximately 80 (Depending on Size of Cookie)</strong></p><p>Cream:</p><p>1 lb. Unsalted butter</p><p>1¼ C Sugar</p><p>4 t Pure vanilla</p><p>4 C AP flour</p><p>1¼ C Cocoa</p><p>1 t Salt</p><p>Chill. Roll approximately ⅜-inch thick on a sugared surface.</p><p>Cut into desired shapes. Prick each cookie with the tines of a fork. Chill, or freeze.</p><p>Bake at 275° for 40 minutes.</p><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412952023-12-11T11:45:00-05:002023-12-11T13:49:26-05:00Hooray for Snowballs! And Christmas Cookie Time!<p> </p><p>Forgive me.</p><p>The switch from "after Thanksgiving" foods to Christmas prep can induce whiplash...</p><p>And now it's mid-December!</p><p>So let's get going, people... Over the next few days, we'll be re-posting our greatest Christmas cookie hits.</p><p>You're welcome!</p><p>(And please let me know how yours turn out!)</p><p>First: Snowballs! My Mother's Own...</p><p>I grew up in Michigan and upstate New York (and I really mean "upstate..." as in Canadian border!! Not what we refer to now as "Upstate Manhattan..."), and Toronto...</p><p>So Christmas means snow. And I'm one of those people who LOVES SNOW... I'll shovel, I'll scrape, I'll do whatever it takes as long as I have snow.</p><p>But I realize that in many, many parts of the States... usually including Yonkers... snow and Christmas are now mutually exclusive. So other than snow... there are a few things guaranteed to... get me in the mood...</p><p>And the greatest of these is/are... COOKIES!</p><p>Mother was a great Christmas cookie maker. And I will now reveal to the world her recipe for snowballs. Yes, I know... every culture has a version of nutty buttery cookies rolled in powdered sugar... I just happen to think these are the best...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3d7a13d134f562e6c1bd35dcf8a8ac0268aba6a4/original/snowball-peak-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzUweDQ2MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="460" width="350" /></p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Snowballs</strong></p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Yield: 5-6 Dozen</strong></p><p>Cream:</p><p>1 C Unsalted butter</p><p>4 T 10X sugar</p><p>2 C AP flour</p><p>1 C Chopped pecans</p><p>2 t Pure vanilla</p><p>1 t Water</p><p>Roll into balls. Chill or freeze. Bake at 400° for 10 minutes.</p><p>When thoroughly cooled, roll carefully in 10X.</p><p>For an equally delicious variation... use <i>homemade unsalted cultured butter</i> and substitute <i>walnuts</i> for the pecans! You will love these, too!</p><p>To make it easy, here's how I make my cultured butter:</p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/buttah-wid-cultcha-cultured-butter" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="Buttah Wid Cultcha!"><i><strong>Buttah wid Cultcha!</strong></i></a></p><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412602023-12-11T11:20:00-05:002023-12-11T13:42:53-05:00Santa Will Thank You for Christmas Shortbread!<p style="text-align:center;"> </p><p>Shortbread.</p><p>I have always been helpless when confronted with a plate of shortbread...</p><p>And these have forever replaced decorated sugar cookies in my affections.</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/59515450439b18a09ac666dc49bce4b69bb99d45/original/shortbread-bites-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTc0eDM0NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="346" width="574" /></p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Shortbread</strong></p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Yield: Approximately 50</strong></p><p>Cream:</p><p>1 lb. Unsalted butter</p><p>1 C Sugar (processed fine)</p><p>½ t Salt</p><p>3¾ C AP Flour</p><p>¼ C Cornstarch</p><p>Roll and cut into “fingers” approximately 1 inch wide and 2½ inches long.</p><p>Prick with a fork 3 times, chill until firm (or freeze).</p><p>Bake at 275° for 30 to 40 minutes, turning once.</p><p>Don’t allow shortbreads to brown!</p><p>Eat & Luxuriate!</p><p> </p><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412592023-12-11T10:00:00-05:002023-12-11T13:46:01-05:00Perfect Christmas Cookies! Melting Moments!<p>Mother's other "famous" Christmas cookie contribution was the "Melting Moment."</p><p>I know these are seriously out of fashion... but I don't care...</p><p>The texture is sooooooooo different from most cookies... because of the cornstarch. But it's the very, very lemony glaze that's the game changer.</p><p>Try them... and let me know!</p><p> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/6211512379e4cd7a1262cacd41ab7ec1ba9f174a/original/melting-moments1.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzgyeDMwNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="304" width="382" /></p><p style="text-align:center;"> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong>Melting Moments</strong></p><p>Cream:</p><p>⅔ C Cornstarch</p><p>½ C 10X Sugar</p><p>1 C AP Flour</p><p>1 C Unsalted butter</p><p>Roll into balls. Chill or freeze. Bake at 325° for 15 minutes.</p><p>When thoroughly cooled, glaze with a smooth mixture of</p><p>⅛ C Unsalted butter</p><p>1 Cup 10X Sugar</p><p>2 T Fresh lemon juice</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412002023-11-24T09:00:00-05:002023-11-24T10:03:08-05:00Awesome Turkey Sandwiches with Crunchy Cheesy Potatoes!<p> </p><p>Turkey sandwiches! One of America's great contributions to world cuisine...</p><p>I had homemade bread that I'd made for the dressing... I had arugula... I had mayonnaise... and white meat from the Thanksgiving turkey.</p><p>Perfect.</p><p>But one must have potato chips! And I had no interest in a trip to the store. So...</p><p>Mashed potato croquettes!!!</p><p>I sautéed a bit of scallion, added it to mashed potatoes, tossed in some chives, a bit of flour, a teaspoon of baking powder, an egg, some Parmesan, salt and pepper... Then I rolled balls of the mixture in flour, then egg, then fresh breadcrumbs (made from some day-old baguette), and fried them in EVOO until puffed and golden brown...</p><p>They were served alongside these perfect sandwiches with a dollop of chive sour cream...</p><p>Who needs potato chips?!?!?</p><p style="text-align:center;"> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b09f9e0260057a8bacad4ed54686cbd82ba0b219/original/turkey-and-arugula-sandwich-on-homemade-wheat-bread-and-potato-croquettes-with-chive-sour-cream-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDgyeDM1MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="350" width="482" /></p><p><i>(Originally posted on December 1, 2013)</i></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412932023-11-24T08:00:00-05:002023-11-24T09:55:17-05:00Savor The Remains of The Day: Silky & Elegant Turkey Risottos!<p><i>There are very few culinary creations that can boast the rich flavor and luscious mouthfeel of risotto. And that fabulous Thanksgiving turkey will provide you with the meat, and the stock, to make some of the best risotto you've ever spooned and swooned over! Trust me!</i></p><p> </p><p><span style="color:#003300;"><i><strong><u>Turkey & Sage Risotto</u></strong></i></span></p><p>I love risotto. Period.</p><p>From my first taste YEARS ago, right up until today. But... I don't like the idea of risotto as a dumping ground. If you want to add things... there's a method. Therefore...</p><p>I had great turkey stock... I had beautifully cooked turkey breast... I had chopped onions... So...</p><p>I started as I would any risotto: I sautéed the onions in EVOO... added the Arborio rice and some chopped sage... added some white wine... and then began the gradual additions of hot turkey stock (augmented with a bit of hot water because the stock was VERY strong), and, at the last moment, I added diced turkey... then a large (2 T) piece of unsalted butter... turned off the heat and added Grana Padano.</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/996b03568f822a68d40cbd89bab208cac5083658/original/turkey-risotto-with-sage-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTc2eDUzMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="533" width="576" /></p><p>This is comfort food to the Nth degree... and it in no way tasted like...</p><p>The dreaded... L WORD!!!</p><p><i>Originally posted on November 28, 2012</i></p><p> </p><p><span style="color:#003300;"><i><strong><u>Turkey, Duxelles and Sage Risotto with White Truffle Oil</u></strong></i></span></p><p>Turkey Risotto... always one of my favorite dishes...</p><p>Though I am NOT a believer in the "dump anything in" school of risotto making!</p><p>Having said that, the idea of a turkey risotto with some sage and duxelles sounded pretty good, especially since I had some wonderful turkey stock on hand. </p><p>The duxelles should go in early, after the second or third addition of simmering stock. The sage can go in early as well... It's a hardy, hearty herb and it can withstand long cooking. But I have a little trick: I add some chopped sage early, and reserve some to toss in during the last few minutes. Try it... you'll see.</p><p>The turkey should go in only long enough to reheat... It is sooooo cooked already.</p><p>And because I have wonderful friends who give me amazing gifts, I finished this risotto off with a very, very tiny drizzle of white truffle oil. This is one case where less is indeed more.</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/86cb47f237e343cae56cf07cad4f2da680575ddf/original/turkey-duxelles-risotto-with-white-truffle-oil-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDU0eDQxNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="414" width="454" /></p><p>Did it work? You bet! When the ingredients are good, and gently handled, the offerings after Thanksgiving can be "better than the original"!!!</p><p><i>Originally posted on December 7, 2013</i></p><p> </p><p><span style="color:#003300;"><i><strong>Check out these links for refresher courses on making perfect risotto...</strong></i></span></p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/perfect-risotto-at-home-with-chicken-and-tarragon" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="Perfect Risotto at Home with Chicken and Tarragon"><i>Perfect Risotto at Home with Chicken and Tarragon</i></a></p><p><span style="color:#003300;"><i><strong>And duxelles</strong></i></span><i>... </i><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/duxelles-shroomapalooza-3" data-link-type="url" contents="Duxelles 'Shroomapalooza"><i>Duxelles 'Shroomapalooza</i></a></p><p> </p><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/64864302023-11-24T07:00:00-05:002023-11-24T09:43:57-05:00And then there's... Turkey Herder Pie!<p style="text-align:center;">Fortunately, your Thanksgiving sous chef has already prepared almost everything you need!</p><p style="text-align:center;"><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/the-remains-of-the-day-it-s-turkey-herder-pie-ok-fine-shepherd-s-pie-with-turkey" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="Turkey Herder Pie! (OK, fine, it's Shepherd's Pie with Turkey...)"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/6aee94d8bb63e151a35421aa6a4e565188405101/original/turkey-herder-pie-1.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" />Turkey Herder Pie! (OK, fine, it's Shepherd's Pie with Turkey...)</a></p><p> </p><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/64953102023-11-24T05:35:00-05:002023-11-24T09:42:40-05:00Turkey 'n' Dressing Cakes<p>OK... This is totally not something I’d usually do. But I ran across a mention of the general idea and I thought, “Well... I might just try this.” And - surprise, surprise - they were really good. If you're planning another turkey dinner for Christmas, give these a shot!</p><p>I took approximately 1 1/2 C of dressing from Thanksgiving, added a beaten egg, and about 1/3 C mashed potatoes, 3 minced sage leaves, a ton of black pepper, and 1/2 C finely minced dark turkey meat, and gently folded it all together. I divided it into 4 equal portions (in future I'd probably divide this amount into 6 portions). I gently flattened them into burger shapes. The mixture was very soft, so I gently coated each cake in panko, and sautéed in EVOO for about 2-3 minutes a side (make sure you turn them gently) until crisp and golden.</p><p>Now for the pièce de résistance: For a little bit of decadence, I sauced the cakes with turkey gravy.</p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/51d48a6d976075610dc67de3fb7bbb5b81e3d8cf/original/turkey-n-dressing-cakes-with-mashed-potatoes-and-gravy.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p><p>I have always loved Thanksgiving.</p><p>I have always loved the fun of making other dishes in the days following the feast. </p><p>These cakes have earned a spot in the ever-evolving “Days AFTER Thanksgiving” rotation. Wow!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412922023-11-24T04:00:00-05:002023-11-24T09:55:17-05:00Savor The Remains of The Day: We Just Love That Turkey Hash!<p>THE use... THE comfort food... using the remains of the turkey... probably my personal fave... because when all is said and done, I'm a Midwesterner who's Irish on all sides (and I do mean ALL sides).</p><p>Hash.</p><p>So this version was sautéed cubes of potato, sautéed onions and celery, the last of the white meat, cubed, some dried sage from the garden, LOTS of pepper, a bit of smoked salt, and the last few spoonfuls of gravy. Topped it with some sour cream and a scattering of chopped scallions.</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/9e51c75986cdeff6a5a94fb812c56603f8780f63/original/turkey-hash-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTA0eDQxNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="416" width="504" /></p><p>Delicious. And a fitting way to say goodbye to the Thanksgiving feast... here shown in all its glory.</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/ea66a653c243fd1af6d97af4a4019c1229899db2/original/thanksgiving-dinner-2012-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjIweDQzNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="435" width="620" /></p><p>And now it's full steam ahead into DECEMBER!!!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/64864312023-11-21T13:00:00-05:002023-11-21T13:33:12-05:00More Remains of the Day: Turkey Mole Enchiladas! (C'mon, It's Turkey and Chocolate!)<p>You heard me, Turkey and Chocolate! Here's a post-Thanksgiving experiment that worked <i>amazingly!</i></p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/the-remains-of-the-day-yes-it-s-time-again-for-turkey-mole-enchiladas-turkey-chocolate-ole" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents=""><i><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b74ce841c0cd01a7c1fe096c6b370f3917452d0e/original/turkey-mole-enchiladas-2-a.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></i></a></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/64869522023-11-21T12:00:00-05:002023-11-21T13:30:12-05:00Get Ready for Great Turkey Pot Pie<p>My recipe for Chicken 'n' Biscuits Pot Pie is just the thing for those beautiful remaining pieces of turkey... Made with black pepper and chive biscuits!</p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/chicken-n-biscuits-pot-pie" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents=""><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3eb822b24079e86e57ff9ec270a63b14b767ddee/original/chicken-n-biscuits-pot-pie-2-3.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></a></p><p style="text-align:center;"><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/chicken-n-biscuits-pot-pie" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="Chicken 'n' Biscuits Pot Pie"><strong>Chicken 'n' Biscuits Pot Pie</strong></a></p><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/64864402023-11-21T05:35:00-05:002023-11-21T12:33:46-05:00How About These Remains of the Day: Turkey Chili - You Said A Mouthful!<p>Who doesn't love chili? This beans-and-bird combination will have your family gobbling up every morsel!</p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/turkey-chili" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents=""><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/dba8a1d2424f0bb6fa6cdbaf5cddf9128a0127dc/original/turkey-chili-1a.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></a></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/64837852023-11-18T02:00:00-05:002023-11-21T12:24:20-05:00Cooking Turkey Breast "En Cocotte"<p>Perhaps turkey cooked "en cocotte" is more to your liking this year, especially if you're opting not to serve an entire bird. Here's my go-to recipe, from <i>The Oregonian</i> of all places, for your consideration!</p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://www.myrecipes.com/how-to/cooking-en-cocotte" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents=""><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/245286ca18f50f4be40242a270e711ee519fd1c6/original/what-cooking-en-cocotte-means-and-why-im-obsessed-with-it.png/!!/b:W10=.png" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></a></p><p style="text-align:center;"><a class="no-pjax" href="https://recipes.oregonlive.com/recipes/turkey-breast-en-cocotte-with-pan-gravy" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="">Turkey Breast en Cocotte with Pan Gravy</a></p><p> </p><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412472023-11-17T21:41:26-05:002023-11-18T11:14:52-05:00And Here's One More Throwback for Turkey Day!<p> </p><p>According to the National Turkey Federation (and who else would you ask?), nearly 88% of Americans eat turkey at Thanksgiving. They report that the average weight of a turkey purchased for Thanksgiving is 16 pounds, so that means that over 700 million pounds of turkey are consumed in the United States every year during the holiday!</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/bb55436b47713390a3dc806e4569d4700d3cf189/original/turkeys-resized-cropped-userimage.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjIzeDE0NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="145" width="223" /></p><p>The picture of the little boy gazing lustfully at the turkey is indeed This Old Chef. It was Thanksgiving at my parents' house in Detroit in... I'm guessing here... 1961 or '62... but my adoration of roast turkey hasn't changed a bit.</p><p>As we're one week out from the fateful day, get ready - here comes a flurry of tips, techniques, and my very best recipes to make your family especially grateful!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411992023-11-17T21:18:38-05:002023-11-17T21:38:04-05:00The Most Flavorful Homemade Dressing Ever! (Start with Homemade Bread, Of Course)<p><i>I'm proud to say that this is one of those recipes that's among This Old Chef's greatest hits! Your family will love it, I promise!</i></p><p>Dressing... Yes, I'm from Michigan and we called it "dressing" whether on the inside or the outside of the bird!</p><p>I went a little crazy this year, but after 8 months away from my kitchen, I think I was due. Instead of buying some baguettes and drying them out...</p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c60a404f5d9baae9da1ce10c16d2f988246eb834/original/great-balls-o-dough-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjI3eDE5NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="195" width="227" /><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/884d1838746db7c1074d71f98d6c401a650b4756/original/loaves-in-the-pan-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MTg5eDE5NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="196" width="189" /></p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4e2b1e1e323383abb0791618213861c846dc446e/original/loaves-out-of-the-pan-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjE4eDIyOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="229" width="218" /><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5b1f84d48b61e22b921678a8589c94601dd81343/original/perfect-slices-of-bread-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjE5eDIyOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="229" width="219" /></p><p>... I made a few loaves of my hearty white bread, cubed about 2/3 of a loaf, dried it in the oven, let it sit out overnight, and then buzzed it in the food processor until it was very irregularly chopped.</p><p>I realize most of you aren't going to MAKE bread just for dressing... but I love bread baking...</p><p><i>Sidebar: Yes, I will give you my recipe for bread some day (which is basically 1 cup of whole wheat flour and 7 cups of all-purpose flour) but, in the meantime, think about how the flavors of your favorite baguette or boule or sourdough from the local bakery might excite your Thanksgiving dressing! You don't need Pepperidge Farm to provide you with their crumbs!</i></p><p>So...</p><p>I added the crumbs to masses of chopped onions, celery, and fresh sage that I had sautéed in butter until softened a bit, but not browned. (I chopped 1 huge onion and about 5 stalks of celery).</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5c15e218b68703a6564387ee7cfd0720fc5eb153/original/celery-onions-and-sage-in-the-pan-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjU4eDI4NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="286" width="258" /></p><p><i>Sidebar: This is a great place to save a step for the next day. Since you'll very probably make some hash over the next few days (won't you?), sauté extra sage, celery and onion and set it aside. Your hash is now about a third done!</i></p><p>OK, back to the dressing...</p><p>Make sure this mixture is well salted and peppered. Then moisten the mixture with some of the turkey stock that I KNOW you made in advance along with some melted butter (how much butter is up to you...). Place this in a well-buttered casserole, cover it with foil, and bake it for about 1/2 hour at 350° or so. Uncover it and stir a bit, occasionally, and leave the foil off for however long it takes to get to the level of dry/moist you like. (Wars are fought over the relative dryness of dressing... I know!)</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/790c7e3e80455e628958e2496917394e8c2e04b0/original/featured-player-dressing-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTQxeDM4MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="383" width="541" /></p><p>I've got to tell you... making dressing with homemade bread was a little crazy, but OMG was the flavor/texture amazing. And the little bit that's left will make its way into the aforementioned hash quite happily.</p><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/64846712023-11-17T21:00:00-05:002023-11-17T21:44:51-05:00A Holiday Flashback!<p>I loved this part! </p><p>HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!! </p><p>In honor of the Founding Father who wanted the turkey to be declared our national symbol because the eagle was a bird "not of good moral character..." </p><p>I thought you'd get a kick out of this shot of me as Ben Franklin in the Connecticut Rep production of Theresa Rebeck's <i>O Beautiful</i> directed by Joe Hanreddy...</p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/7561167ace2170ddb7eef18c1f7a6b6d7aaf6fa7/original/david-as-ben-franklin.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/64834172023-11-14T20:00:00-05:002023-11-15T11:39:47-05:00It's A Food & Wine Thanksgiving!<p>I'm still celebrating my first time having a recipe featured on the cover of Food & Wine magazine! And this week, Food & Wine named this dish #18 on its list of all-time Food & Wine Test Kitchen Thanksgiving Sides!</p><p>Check out my luscious Rutabaga, Celery Root and Potato Gratin... you and your family will love it! Click on the cover for the recipe... and then cook the cover!</p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/files/1092614/food-wine-thanksgiving-2020-cover-and-recipe-only.pdf" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents=""><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/12bb8c49f7e293240146060f768bfea57115910b/original/food-wine-thanksgiving-2020-cover-only.jpg/!!/undefined/b:W1sic2l6ZSIsIm1lZGl1bSJdXQ==.jpg" class="size_m justify_center border_" /></a></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412872023-11-14T02:00:00-05:002023-11-14T21:29:55-05:00Trust Me! Take The Spatchcock Express!<p><i>Here's a great memory of my very first time roasting a spatchcocked turkey, and my case for spatchcocking <u>your</u> Thanksgiving turkey... Norman Rockwell was a painter, not a cook!</i></p><p>I know it looks like road kill but...</p><p>It's happened... I've drunk the Kool-Aid...</p><p>I will quite probably never cook a turkey any other way.</p><p>Yesterday <i>[Thanksgiving morning!]</i>, I spatchcocked the Thanksgiving turkey!</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b854394d396ae006f20f040cefacc346a94b4dd8/original/spatchcocked-turkey-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mzc4eDI0OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="248" width="378" /></p><p>All that actually means is...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/2e5f5d0cb672c69f8a2e2e59c31a1cd7c849f0a1/original/turkey-s-backbone-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTA0eDM4NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="386" width="504" /></p><p>I cut out the backbone, then made a little slit on the membrane covering the keel bone, flipped the bird over, pushed down until I heard a fairly loud snap... and then roasted it on a cookie-cooling-type rack set in a sheet pan at 450 for 85-90 minutes.</p><p>And that, as they say, was that.</p><p>Crisp mahogany skin, juicy dark AND white meat... with no basting, no flipping, no nuthin'.</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3d9af4e43ba1e74ba0b893fb804d0bcd79000149/original/out-of-the-oven-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTY3eDQwNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="405" width="567" /></p><p>Does it look like Norman Rockwell? Absolutely not. It looks a little more like Norman Rockwell ran it over with his car... but I've never been a fan of carving the bird in the dining room anyway.</p><p>We had mashed potatoes, peas, cranberry chutney, sage dressing using my homemade bread (seriously... it's as big a revelation as fresh sage), and quite possibly my finest gravy to date (partly because the base was my homemade chicken stock simmered with the neck, backbone, and giblets... except the liver).</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/7f9679d933ea38e129933d5593da44ac34b243af/original/thanksgiving-42-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjEyeDQ5NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="494" width="612" /></p><p>A wonderful evening by the fire... a 12-pound turkey cooked in 90 minutes... How lucky can you get!</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3f14f8cfc5f1f2580e48e0cf9a7e693a96eacc53/original/thanksgiving-33-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTk4eDgwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="800" width="598" /></p><p> <i>Originally posted on November 29, 2014</i></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/68046392023-11-14T01:00:00-05:002023-11-14T21:16:15-05:00The Julia Child Thanksgiving Recipe I've Been Making for over 30 Years!<p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://www.thekitchn.com/julia-child-cranberry-chutney-23242179" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents=""><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/17d1410eed5e02fc3c92861ee184e951b1d1700d/original/k-edit-2021-11-cranberry-chutney-img-0775.jfif/!!/meta:eyJzcmNCdWNrZXQiOiJiemdsZmlsZXMifQ==/b:W1sic2l6ZSIsImxhcmdlIl1d.jfif" class="size_l justify_center border_" alt="" /></a></p><p style="text-align:center;">You must you must you must try Julia's Cranberry Chutney, and catch my debut on <a class="no-pjax" href="https://www.thekitchn.com/julia-child-cranberry-chutney-23242179" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="thekitchn.com">thekitchn.com</a>!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/64849562023-11-13T08:00:00-05:002023-11-13T20:35:03-05:00Thanksgiving Lessons Learned Over the Years<p>I've been making Thanksgiving dinners since 1978, and I've learned a thing or two... Which I would like to share with you!</p><p> </p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/the-best-thanksgiving-lessons-learned" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents=""><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8b1d801a5ee2ef6092d3817b4f2b35015aae7860/original/vintage-turkey-facing-left.jpeg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></a></p><p style="text-align:center;"><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/the-best-thanksgiving-lessons-learned" data-link-type="url" contents="Thanksgiving Lessons Learned Over the Years"><span style="color:#d35400;">Thanksgiving Lessons Learned Over the Years</span></a></p><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412852023-11-12T08:00:00-05:002023-11-18T11:14:52-05:00Yes! Yes! Make Your Gravy... Before Thanksgiving! And Stock Up on Turkey Stock!<p><span style="color:#454545;"><span>I cannot believe it's already Thanksgiving! 2023!</span></span></p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/s:bzglfiles/u/425591/df305ef08b3f1869f4b58255168af63468d8c056/original/img-2683.jpg/!!/meta:eyJzcmNCdWNrZXQiOiJiemdsZmlsZXMifQ==" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p><p><span style="color:#454545;"><span>My elderly parents warned me about time speeding up but, like every child, I didn't believe them.</span></span></p><p><span style="color:#454545;"><span>Guess what. They win.</span></span><span> </span><span style="color:#454545;"><span> </span></span></p><p><span style="color:#454545;"><span>So h</span></span>ere are two earlier This Old Chef posts, one that will definitely help speed things up on Thanksgiving Day... and another that will REALLY help in the days that follow!</p><p><span style="color:#950707;"><strong>Turkey Stock, or Turkey Jello, If You Prefer</strong></span></p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4d82b1439e77c7b1ea1b35e6d138c94b0acf98ac/original/turkey-jello-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzIzeDMwNyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="307" width="323" /></p><p>So, how do you manage to have enough "liquid" to make turkey gravy without making everyone wait... AND without making yourself crazy during the wild last minutes of preparing the Thanksgiving feast?</p><p>Simple... sometime during the week before the big day... buy a few packages of turkey parts: drumsticks, wings, necks and backs (if you can get them) and a small package of ground dark meat...</p><p>Brown all of it well and make a stock with celery, onions, peppercorns, and the trimmings from a bunch of fresh sage. That way, you can chill it and remove all of the fat... and it's in the fridge waiting for you turn it into gravy.</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c690455e45c7c3c4fffd01963d466330e0c243a2/original/thanksgiving-prep-3-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTAxeDQxNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="416" width="501" /></p><p>Or you can even make the gravy itself a day or two in advance. THEN, on the day, you can add a bit of the drippings, or use a bit of the stock you saved to deglaze the roasting pan... but the gravy itself will already be done!</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/ebc5f515272f90fdacb2776b8778e6ba71c70a55/original/turkey-gravy-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzYxeDI4NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="285" width="361" /></p><p><br> </p><p><span style="color:#950707;"><strong>The Remains of the Day: Turkey Stock </strong></span></p><p>You knew it had to happen... a 12-pound turkey... two diners... There had to be some REMAINING turkey, right? I say "remaining" because I refuse to use The L Word!</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/cc360d7896df9541edf582558d639997db5eab4b/original/the-turkey-2012-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mzk5eDMxMSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="311" width="399" /></p><p>So the first thing you do on Thanksgiving night: break up the carcass, and put it in a big stock pot with water and the trimmings from all of the onions, celery, garlic and herbs you saved as you were cooking earlier in the day...</p><p>Simmer this mess for about 2 hours, strain out the solids, and chill the stock. The next day, skim off the fat (which is perfectly useable... and tasty!)...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/87e115a5fe775d18ca158605362f6f3cede3f4bb/original/schmalzy-turkey-stock-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzU0eDI4OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="288" width="354" /></p><p>and you're left with a wonderful broth that's ready for soups, curries, moistening stuffing (i.e., dressing, if you're from my neck of the woods), and 100 other uses.</p><p><br> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/72990692023-11-05T15:51:52-05:002023-11-12T12:29:32-05:00Sausage and Potatoes!<p><meta charset="utf-8"><span style="color:#000000;">I got it into my head that I wanted a dinner with sausage. So I ran through all the usual suspects… pasta with sausage (a No because, though I’d be happy eating pasta every day, I try not to do that to Charlie, and we had just had some pasta), street-fair-sausage-and-peppers-on- a baguette, etc. None of them quite seemed to fit the bill.</span></p><p dir="ltr"><span style="color:#000000;">So I looked in the fridge. I had two poblanos from the yard (despite a pretty lousy poblano season this year), half of a LARGE peeled Russet from dinner a few days before (kept in water), AND I had the remains of a fava bean/chorizo side dish from earlier in the week. A plan had formed!!!</span></p><p dir="ltr"><span style="color:#000000;">I sliced and sautéed some great hot Italian sausage from the one and only Teitel Brothers, and set it aside. I chunked the potato and nuked the chunks in water until <i>barely</i> soft, sautéed them in the sausage fat, then added them to the sausages.</span></p><p dir="ltr"><span style="color:#000000;">I diced an onion and the poblanos and, in a separate pan, sautéed them as well.</span></p><p dir="ltr"><span style="color:#000000;">I let all of this cool until dinnertime. Then, in a skillet large enough to hold everybody, I reheated it all, and added the fava/chorizo mix and some chopped rosemary.</span></p><p dir="ltr"><span style="color:#000000;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/s:bzglfiles/u/425591/30817d915d73135a56794125794122059e7e068a/original/sausage-and-potatoes-1a.jpg/!!/meta:eyJzcmNCdWNrZXQiOiJiemdsZmlsZXMifQ==" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></span></p><p dir="ltr"><span style="color:#000000;">OMG was this a tasty dinner. EXACTLY what I wanted: the sausage that got me started plus all the other ingredients I just happened to have… A good reminder that looking in the fridge often supplies the inspiration that’s needed. But this happy accident now goes into the permanent rotation!</span></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/65110322023-09-23T00:00:00-04:002023-10-16T10:56:33-04:00A Crab Cake for the Ages<p>I'm continuing to work my way through the samples sent to me by <i><strong>@sitkasalmonshares</strong></i>, and I am thrilled every time I taste something new. </p><p>As all of you know, I make crab cakes whenever my wallet allows. One of the samples sent was Dungeness crab. I’m a very East Coast kinda guy, and had never tasted these fellas from out West. OMG!! </p><p>Sweet, sweet, silky meat. And not at all stringy, as crab can sometimes be. This was truly “melt in your mouth.” </p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c7f55a2dfbf1b65cd0aecae260050604452aa591/original/christmas-crab-cakes-1b.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p><p>And, as all of you also know, my crab cakes are about 97% crab. So all you taste is the crab. I carefully picked the thawed 1/2 crab, getting about 1/2 to 2/3 cup of meat. I added about 1/2 of a small shallot, and 1/4 of a celery stalk, both very finely minced, along with 1 T mayo and 1T panko. I formed these into 4 small cakes, coated them with panko, then gently sautéed them in EVOO until golden. I served them on a bed of arugula and chopped radicchio, with a dollop of caper and lemon tartar sauce on the side. </p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/98e930d002dc887b8f85c807a100186418059405/original/christmas-crab-cakes-1a.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p><p>One of the best mouthfuls of food I have ever tasted or produced. </p><p>I guess maybe those people on the wrong coast know a thing or two after all!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412782023-09-20T04:00:00-04:002023-09-27T14:19:29-04:00Charlie's 65th! (Dry-Aged Wagyu/Angus Tomahawk Steak, Baked Potato with Chives, Red and Green Endive Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette, and Blueberry Pie)<p> </p><p>Read this one!</p><p>Because the chances of our ever having a piece of meat like this again are pretty much slim to none!!!</p><p>It’s not often... OK, only once... when the love of your life turns 65.</p><p>He asked for grilled meat of some sort and a baked potato.</p><p>Now, Dear Readers, as you know, this is not a frequent request nor is it something in my comfort zone. But when the once-in-a-lifetime thing comes into play, ya gotta do...</p><p>As it happens, my adored coworker, Kelsey Youngman, had been given some absolutely RIDICULOUS beef not long ago, including a dry-aged Wagyu/Angus-cross 28 oz. tomahawk steak. And she had given it to me.</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/604e955c400d939b0b3a3a39d621c2a768725926/original/tomahawk-1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjAweDU4NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="586" width="600" /></p><p>I know, right?</p><p>So, I read everything I could find about dry-aged beef, grilling, tomahawks, etc., and came to the conclusion that 2-level grilling and an instant-read thermometer were the way to go. So I started a full chimney of charcoal and preheated the oven for both potato baking and individual blueberry pie baking...</p><p><i>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/individual_blueberry_pies_for_the_fourth_of_july/</i></p><p>I knew the pies would need about 45-50 minutes and the potatoes about an hour, and as everyone who cooks knows: It’s the timing that’ll getcha!</p><p>So I put the pies in first, knowing they would need a little time to sit and cool after baking, and then the potatoes, about 20 minutes before the pies finished. For the first time ever, I was going to use my new instant-read thermometer to temp baked potatoes... 210°... OMG! It worked!</p><p>But back to The Terror...</p><p>When the coals were nice and grey, I poured them into the Weber... just on one side... put the grate in, and closed the lid to let the grate heat. Then I scrubbed and oiled the grate and... trembling with the fear that visits me only when I am out of my element... I laid the room-temp, salted and peppered tomahawk on the cool side and turned it every few minutes until it reached 115°-120°...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/fa509d6eab947d8d646221ead2545bcf9eb8ce93/original/tomahawk-2a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjYyeDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="662" /></p><p>Then transferred it to the hot side, turning once, until it was gorgeously charred and temped out at 125°...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5d8beffe0aa4b9f453c386501a3447be1608750e/original/tomahawk-3a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDczeDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="473" /></p><p>I removed it to let it rest, covered...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a96232502761a6a98e15a51c646bedc17ef7f7f3/original/tomahawk-4a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzAweDQ1MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="450" width="700" /></p><p>And took a breath for the first time in HOURS.</p><p>I made a very mustardy, vinegary, shalloty vinaigrette and used it to dress some red and green endive. When the potatoes reached 210° ... I pulled them... split them... added butter and chives to his... sour cream and chives to mine... Lots of good salt and cracked pepper...</p><p>And then, holding my breath again, I cut the steak off the bone... and sliced it.</p><p>Would it be wrong for me to scream IT WAS PERFECTLY COOKED!!! Just barely past rare. Gorgeous.</p><p>I plated it, poured the accumulated juices on top, and we celebrated.</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/34445005caa2557f05df87bab7be9b2e11b31b76/original/tomahawk-5a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTUweDQ1OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="459" width="550" /></p><p> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/ec014f3456b992b9154a4867a09d9d6856d6de68/original/tomahawk-6a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTY1eDQzOCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="438" width="565" /></p><p>I’m rarely speechless, but this was just unreal. Tender, but not so soft you forgot it was beef. A flavor and aroma from another era (the popcorn scent of dry-aged beef is crazy). And I had forgotten that a good baked potato is its own thing, and really fun on occasion. The bite of the salad was the perfect counterpoint.</p><p>And I must say, I make a fine blueberry pie.</p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/375aa09353f924e31805b9f9a8a1eb26f504ab22/original/birthday-blueberry-pie-a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjYyeDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="662" /></p><p>I’m not usually a big Cabernet fan, but with beef this big we surrendered to a bottle of the iconic Flora Springs Trilogy 2012 from Napa... thank you, @rayisle.</p><p>All in all... I think he had a happy birthday! And I'm very glad I don't have to top this meal any time soon!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/63105252023-09-20T01:00:00-04:002023-09-27T14:16:37-04:00Schweineschnitzel with Caraway Sauce on Brown Rice and Asparagus with Brown Butter and Poppy Seeds<p>I have recently come to the conclusion that if you can lay out the money and have the freezer space, buying large cuts of meat is the way to go. Not crazy large like a whole cow or anything. But, for example, whenever I see a sale on pork tenderloin, I buy as many as I can fit in the freezer.</p><p>First, I will carefully portion 1 or 2 of the tenderloins into 1-oz. pieces. Yes, you heard me: One-Ounce Pieces. These are eventually going to be schnitzels, and a 1-oz. schnitzel is all you need when combined with a veg and a sauce (and maybe a starch). Don’t worry, I am not going all meatless on you. But a pounded 1-oz. piece of pork tenderloin breaded and sautéed is, seriously, a perfect serving. And, if you’ve done this little bit of prep right when you get home from the store... dinner’s a cinch. </p><p>So, I simply pounded 2 slices as thinly as I could without tearing the meat, salted, peppered, and floured them, dipped them in egg whites, and then coated them in panko. I sautéed them in EVOO until done (remember, it’s not 1956... pork does not have to be cooked until it resembles grey leather!).</p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/64b6b7aa1a2134898e7f96d16c2a4ae0a545e3d4/original/schweine-2a.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p><p>The incredibly tasty sauce could hardly be simpler: I sautéed some finely minced shallot in butter, added caraway seed and a splash of white wine, and let that simmer until most of the wine was gone. I then turned the heat off and stirred in sour cream (take a bit of care... it doesn’t like to be boiled!).</p><p>I served these schnitzels with asparagus sautéed with brown butter and poppy seeds. I’ve lately become a bit obsessed with these dark grey/blue seeds and the deep, almost mysterious crunch they bring to vegetables.</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412632023-09-19T13:00:00-04:002023-09-27T14:16:11-04:00Grilled Tuna Filet Mignon with Pickled Ginger, Soba Noodles and Broccoli Florets<p> </p><p>Big sale on tuna!</p><p>Time for a variation on an old friend: Tuna Filet Mignon from Union Square Café…</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/d234781b79c6e0cf83d01d51461fa62aadf2573f/original/grilled-tuna-and-soba-1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTcweDQ3MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="470" width="570" /><br> </p><p>You can find the basics here...</p><p><i>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/grilled_yellowfin_tuna_with_pickled_ginger/</i></p><p>This time, probably because Charlie and I had been talking about our visit to Japan many years ago, I became intrigued by the notion of Soba Noodles. And had some on hand. Which you can, too, these days, no matter where you live. Buckwheat noodles bring so much flavor - and slippery structure - to the party!<br> </p><p>I marinated the tuna in a ziplock bag containing some soy sauce, sherry, minced ginger and garlic, sesame oil, and a bit of red pepper flakes, for about 4 hours. I removed the tuna and let it come to room temp, then placed the marinade in a saucepan and began to simmer it. I grilled the tuna until JUST BARELY COOKED (we like it pretty rare in the middle, but that’s up to you).</p><p>I served the tuna with crisp tender broccoli florets and soba noodles tossed with the warmed marinade. I topped the tuna with pickled ginger (one of my favorite foods) and a sprinkle of toasted sesame seeds. Tuna steaks are not on the menu frequently, but when they are... this is a really good one!</p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a3957de689d0dc3c473703e7cc57d7c604313ea0/original/grilled-tuna-and-soba-2a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzAweDUwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="500" width="700" /><br> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412362023-09-19T08:00:00-04:002023-09-27T14:24:47-04:00Pizza alla Bolognese!<p> </p><p>OK. I know. I often post pizza.</p><p>Because I often MAKE pizza.</p><p>But this one <i>really</i> deserves a post because it was particularly wonderful, and it's been a couple of years since I discovered the joys of tasting this great (Italian) gravy on pizza!</p><p>I made my standard dough...</p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/basic-pizza-dough" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="Basic Pizza Dough"><i><strong>Basic Pizza Dough</strong></i></a></p><p>I made my standard Bolognese...</p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/sunday-gravy-homemade-bolognese-and-pizza" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="Sunday Gravy (Homemade Bolognese) and Pizza!"><i><strong><u>Sunday Gravy (Homemade Bolognese) and Pizza!</u></strong></i></a></p><p>This time, to that Bolognese, I added some crushed tomatoes. It’s a pizza after all!</p><p>I covered the rolled-out dough with the tomatoey Bolognese, topped it with fresh oregano, some sliced pepperoni, and mozzarella and Parmigiano...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/ca450237a868ca4c9fdd9dbd3be86be5900fd279/original/pizza-alla-bolognese1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzE3eDU5NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="595" width="717" /></p><p>Baked... Cooled... Sliced... Tasted...</p><p>Laughed out loud! This is a great pizza!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412382023-09-13T12:00:00-04:002023-09-27T14:21:17-04:00Hot Night, Cold Noodles (Spicy Peanut Noodles with Scallions)<p> </p><p>We were experiencing a rather grotesque week of heat and humidity here in the City... Upper 90s in the day and virtually no cool-down at night. And the humidity was rainforest-like.</p><p>Ergo, Charlie requested cold Asian noodles.</p><p>Perfect!</p><p>And I somehow got it in my head that he meant elaborate Japanese udon noodles in cold broth, etc., and hey, I’m up for a challenge...</p><p>But then, when we got home and started to talk, I realized he meant our longstanding go-to spicy peanut noodles. I was so relieved that I realized just how much the awful weather had taken out of me!</p><p>So, with gratitude:</p><p>I boiled some linguini and did the unthinkable... I rinsed it in cold water. Trust me, it works for this.</p><p>In the food processor, I blitzed some minced ginger, smashed garlic, peanut butter, soy sauce, sesame oil, a tiny bit of white wine to loosen the whole mess, and some Momofuku Ssäm sauce I had from the test kitchen. This went into a bowl with a minced, blisteringly hot dragon cayenne and the white parts of 5 scallions, sliced very thin. </p><p>Then, in went the pasta... and a bit of the cooled pasta water I’d saved for a bit more loosening. I tossed it until every noodle was coated. Then into the fridge to await service.</p><p>When we were ready <i>(read: able to move to the dining room)... </i>I chilled some nice bowls, got out the good chopsticks, twirled the noodles into bowls... topped with the remaining scallion greens...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4038eff2c43dad4a0b98ffa266be6a95ba36d5ff/original/cold-spicy-peanut-noodles1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjE4eDQ2OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="469" width="618" /></p><p>We had a truly lovely sweat-inducing, cooling dinner. OK, not for the faint of heart, but...</p><p>Believe me, these noodles are just as good - no, really! - for the next few days.</p><p>Happy sweating!!!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412402023-09-11T13:50:00-04:002023-09-27T14:16:11-04:00Chickpea Curry with Paneer and Rice<p> </p><p>I happened to have some milk rapidly approaching its use-by date. So I made some paneer, just to be ready the next time we wanted some Indian food...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong><u>Paneer</u></strong></p><p>Make fresh ricotta...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><i>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/homemade_ricotta_with_fresh_herbs/</i></p><p>Drain about 1 hour in a towel-lined sieve.</p><p>Gather the towel (or cheesecloth) so that the cheese is completely enclosed. Add a plate or pot with a weight on top (I use canned tomatoes). Press for at least 3 hours.</p><p>Use immediately or wrap tightly and freeze.</p><p> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><strong><u>Chickpea Curry</u></strong></p><p>The very next day... Surprise, Surprise... I really wanted Indian food! I had been reading all sorts of articles and blogposts about the use of various dried beans in Indian cuisine and I wanted to play around with the idea.</p><p>I started with my usual: I minced an onion and began to brown-fry the bits in oil. Remember, don’t burn them, but do fry them slowly until they are dark. I incorporated some chopped carrots and celery followed by lots of minced ginger and garlic, and a tablespoon of my own blend of curry spices, and cooked until very fragrant.</p><p>Next I added a splash of tomato sauce I’d made from the September glut in the garden. I let this bubble away for a bit, then added a chopped red pepper, some almost-cooked lima beans, and 2 cans of chickpeas (all of these amounts are really variable). Now, in the living dangerously category, I minced two dragon cayenne peppers and put them into the pot...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5a2f16aed894678806399cf28f6b60035391f791/original/chickpea-curry-1aa.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDQ1eDQ4OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="488" width="445" /></p><p>When all seemed ready, I tasted for salt, added a splash of cream (just cuz), and gently stirred in the paneer, which I had cubed and fried in oil...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/1e1ede0505ec11627a4e2e75d244a54ff71b9691/original/frying-paneer1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDg4eDQ0NyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="447" width="488" /></p><p>Served with rice and topped generously with ground toasted cumin seeds!</p><p>This dish is not remotely traditional, but once you start learning about Indian spices and techniques, I truly believe you can take almost any foods you like in an “Indian direction.”</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/32d646db41a5096e9b46eb539104e4095898653a/original/chickpea-curry-2aa.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzIweDUxNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="515" width="720" /></p><p>And this dish was incredibly satisfying... and by that I don’t mean to damn with faint praise... It was absolutely delicious! Even more important, it was satisfying to both of us in the way that only Indian food can be. I guess I did something right!!!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411922023-09-07T03:00:00-04:002023-09-27T14:23:55-04:00Saltimbocca Pasta (Pasta with Crispy Fried Prosciutto & Sage and Chicken in Cream Sauce with Parmesan)<p><span>Oh, Dear Reader, have I come up with a winner!</span></p><p><span>And not just a winner...</span></p><p><span>A </span><i><span><strong>major</strong></span></i><span> one!</span></p><p><span>A few nights ago, I made a French "chicken in a pot..." not roasted... not braised... just a chicken, a Dutch oven, and a few veg that produced the juiciest, most succulent bird I've ever made, along with delicious </span><i><span>jus</span></i><span> for days. I'll write about that soon. </span></p><p><span>There were some remnants, and it was chilly, so... Pasta?</span></p><p><span>But then, the test kitchen provided that which took it over the top: half an onion and about 1/2 C of fried prosciutto and sage leaves (that had been sautéed gently in EVOO until crisp). These, of course, set my mind wandering to (and my mouth watering for)...</span></p><p><span>Saltimbocca! What the hell... Why not a marriage?!?!?</span></p><p><span>I sautéed the chopped onion in some of the chicken fat scraped off of the aforementioned </span><i><span>jus</span></i><span>, then added some of the </span><i><span>jus</span></i><span> itself and a tiny bit of flour-thickened </span><i><span>jus</span></i><span> from the previous dinner. In went the fried sage and prosciutto (crumbled or chopped... up to you)...</span></p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4c306dfee3dfb50b630b05d4535a91989dccf9cf/original/saltimbocca-pasta-1-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTQ3eDQxMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="410" width="547" /></p><p><span>Then a splash of white wine, a good shot of cream, and... about three minutes before the pasta was ready... diced chicken, fresh chopped sage, salt and pepper...</span><br> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><span><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8bde0c185b5f7570f1829ee7f1ad337a446782e9/original/saltimbocca-pasta-2-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTQ4eDQwOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="409" width="548" /></span><br> </p><p><span>Then the underdone pasta and a bit of pasta water...</span></p><p><span> Just before dishing into hot bowls, I added a generous handful of Parmigiano... tasted... gasped in delight... and served.</span></p><p style="text-align:center;"><span><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/052aeb771ae22d3dce2395b3168b6a99bf8476d6/original/saltimbocca-pasta-3-2-1.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTUweDQxMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="413" width="550" /></span><br> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><span>OhBoyOhBoyOhBoy. Heaven in a bowl. Try this. You'll thank me.</span></p><p> </p><p><br> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/65987882023-08-01T00:00:00-04:002023-09-27T15:05:21-04:00Ham. Turkey. Gruyère. Galette. With Iceberg and Radish Salad.<p>So... I somehow got confused and experimented with making a boned and rolled turkey breast... four days before Easter. </p><p>I therefore ended up with both turkey and ham starting Easter Monday. </p><p>As you all know, I consider already cooked food a gift. But this was ridiculous. </p><p>One of my favorite "luxuries" is a galette, a free-form French pie that can be either sweet or savory. So I decided to make one including ham, turkey, and the remaining Easter potatoes cooked in cream (a magnificent Julia indulgence... post to follow). </p><p>Make your favorite single pie crust. I use all butter because 1) Crisco is a bad thing, and 2) butter tastes great and allows me to fold it a few times before rolling, resulting in a kind of almost kinda sorta puff pastry without all of the work. </p><p>Usually, I make round galettes, but this time I decided on square. I rolled the crust out to about a 1/8 inch thickness. Then I cut 1-inch slits every inch or so around the perimeter to facilitate folding later.</p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/eecde0a2772a70dcb018c5b71a18140ba7152221/original/ham-and-turkey-galette-1.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" />Onto the crust, I brushed some Dijon, and placed a mixture of diced ham, diced turkey, the potatoes, a bit of shredded Gruyère, and both smoked salt and smoked pepper. Then, using some beaten egg as glue, I folded up the edges. I then egg washed the whole pie, and grated more Gruyère on top.</p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4389234f0f97c44e614c2857c296532a785a59dc/original/ham-and-turkey-galette-2.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" />The galette should be on a parchment- or silpat-lined sheet pan. Bake at 375° for approximately 50 minutes. </p><p>The real test is a deep golden brown color. </p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/95b240da688d3126c14cb877635b0814c3d3efdb/original/img-5322.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" />Let it cool a bit on a rack (10-15 minutes), slice, and be amazed.</p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/2a4b806a5446e283e838bce542f92c75d049ccfc/original/ham-and-turkey-galette-4.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61407532023-07-05T12:00:00-04:002023-09-27T15:05:56-04:00Elegant and Easy (Poppyseed Cake)<p> </p><p>I often wish that described me...</p><p>But in this case, it's a poppyseed cake I've been making since the early '80s. The original recipe (found in the old <i>Joy of Cooking</i>) called for two layers and a pastry cream filling, and a chocolate sauce. While I'm sure that was awfully tasty, I think a wedge of only one layer, dusted with 10X (powdered) sugar if you want to get fancy, is so good it doesn't need anything else.</p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/d17be2c4d2b462cef4bf9fd5aa34ffdaff33c2c2/original/poppy-seed-cake-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6ODAweDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="800" /></p><p>And yes, I'm old enough that I still refer to powdered sugar as 10X... which simply means granulated sugar ground and refined 10 times.</p><p> </p><p><span style="color:black;"><strong>POPPY SEED CUSTARD CAKE</strong></span><br><i><span>The Joy of Cooking</span></i><span>, 1975</span><br> </p><p><span>Have all ingredients at about 70 degrees.</span></p><p><span>Combine 2/3 C poppy seeds and 3/4 C milk and soak for 2 hours.</span></p><p><span>Preheat oven to 375 degrees.</span></p><p><span>Beat 2/3 C butter until soft. Add 1½ C sugar gradually and cream until fluffy.</span><br><br><span>Sift 2 C cake flour before measuring, then resift with 2½ t double-acting baking powder and ½ t salt.</span><br><br><span>Combine the poppy seed-milk mixture with ¼ C milk and 1 t vanilla.</span><br><br><span>Add the sifted ingredients to the butter mixture in 3 parts, alternating with the liquid ingredients. Beat the batter after each addition until blended. </span><br><br><span>Whip until stiff, but not dry, then fold in 4 egg whites.</span><br><br><span>Bake about 20 minutes in 9” round pans with greased bottoms.</span><br><br><span>Place crème pâtissière between cooled layers (recipe below).</span><br><br><span>Dust with powdered sugar.</span><br><br><span><u>Crème Pâtissière</u></span></p><p><span>Scald 1 ½ C milk with one vanilla bean.</span><br><br><span>Mix ½ C sugar, ¼ C all-purpose flour, and 3 to 4 well-beaten egg yolks or 2 eggs and 2 yolks in the top of a double-boiler over boiling water.</span><br><br><span>Beat this mixture until light. Now remove the vanilla bean and add the scalded milk gradually. Stir until all is well blended. Cook, stirring constantly, until it begins to thicken. Remove from the heat and continue to stir to release the steam and prevent crusting. Cool mixture before filling pastry.</span></p><p> </p><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/68831552023-06-13T00:00:00-04:002023-09-27T15:06:43-04:00"Indian" Curry Pizza<p>Please forgive me for not posting lately. I’ve been so busy writing articles for various digital platforms that I have seriously neglected my own TOC. I will try to correct that! </p><p>So, a few nights ago, I made a pretty wonderful (and wildly hot) Incendiary Chicken Curry. We enjoyed it that night, and had a bit left over. Not quite enough for another go... so I started wondering what I could use it for. I’m a big fan of using techniques from one cuisine with foods from another, so the idea of an "Indian" pizza seemed like a very interesting mash-up to play with. </p><p>I made my usual <a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/basic-pizza-dough" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="basic pizza dough">basic pizza dough</a> and, while it was proofing, I decided to add some cabbage to the curry. Not wanting to let the pizza get soggy, I chopped about 5 leaves, and nuked them with ¼ C water for about 3 minutes, and then squeezed out as much liquid as I could. (Interesting sidebar: I used my potato ricer to squeeze the liquid out of the cabbage. It worked perfectly, and I didn’t have to dirty a kitchen towel!) I then mixed the barely cooked cabbage with the curry (about ¾ C).</p><p>Feeling the need for a bit more onion flavor, I sliced a shallot as thin as I could and separated the slices into rings. </p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/1e511fbe43b4e5096a5c90f921dae0a9b4f6ee22/original/incendiary-chicken-curry-pizza-1.jpg/!!/meta:eyJzcmNCdWNrZXQiOiJiemdsZmlsZXMifQ==/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" />I rolled out the dough, spread the curry/cabbage mixture over the dough (with a 1 inch border), scattered the shallots...</p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/41e1a68ca3f0cebc2f80744c35d21eadf2f29a39/original/incendiary-chicken-curry-pizza-2.jpg/!!/meta:eyJzcmNCdWNrZXQiOiJiemdsZmlsZXMifQ==/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" />and topped with diced mozzarella...</p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/fbfe34fdc09ebec40f2d34addfe1a5018d15dbee/original/incendiary-chicken-curry-pizza-3.jpg/!!/meta:eyJzcmNCdWNrZXQiOiJiemdsZmlsZXMifQ==/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" />This baked on my pizza steel (an incredible invention, by the way) at 550° for 7-8 minutes. When it came out , I scattered cilantro, sliced scallions, and toasted cumin across the pie. </p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a87647ae47aad1734b10c6be0de2188304f622f6/original/incendiary-chicken-curry-pizza-4.jpg/!!/meta:eyJzcmNCdWNrZXQiOiJiemdsZmlsZXMifQ==/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" />And I have to say, this was one of the best pizzas we have ever had. </p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/525c17341edb1a5e64967a7ca69e72fccc0e913a/original/incendiary-chicken-curry-pizza-5.jpg/!!/meta:eyJzcmNCdWNrZXQiOiJiemdsZmlsZXMifQ==/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p><p>So whenever you happen to have some Indian food left over...</p><p>P.S. And check out my Incendiary Chicken Curry recipe, too, since it was the inspiration for this dish!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412752023-04-11T09:00:00-04:002023-09-27T15:09:01-04:00The Anniversary Dinner! (Steak au Poivre, Sautéed Potatoes with Truffle Oil, and Squash with Dill)<p><br>I try to make sure that we eat well every night.</p><p>I try not to fall into "The Rotation Trap..." Seven (or however many) dishes served on an endless loop. Yes, of course there are faves that consistently reappear on our table, but I truly think of those as <i>choices</i>.</p><p>This is all to say that there are some occasions that demand something special...</p><p>And Anniversary 41/1 back in April was certainly one such occasion!</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/d66ce66e03cf7ee0e8248ee3d32890a422fadbdd/original/steak-au-poivre-1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDEweDQwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_center border_" alt="" height="400" width="410" /></p><p>Circumstances provided me with two small filet mignons. Not gigantic hunks of cow, but we don’t eat huge portions of anything. And <i>steak au poivre</i> is just about Charlie's favorite food, so...</p><p>First, I made the sauce for those pretty steaks. I sautéed minced shallots in EVOO... added port... reduced to almost dry... added homemade beef stock (if you don’t have homemade, don’t bother with commercial beef stock... YUCK... use your own or some good low-sodium chicken stock). Let that bubble away gently for a bit, then turn it off.</p><p>Then I turned to my good friend and remarkable cook @danielgritzer, for his stellar reimagining of the "meat technique..."</p><p>OK, fine, I changed it a bit, but the basics are his!</p><p>Take about 2T good whole peppercorns and gently crack them by pushing against them with the bottom of a heavy pan. Resist the temptation to smash by hitting... you’ll be finding peppercorns for months.</p><p>Season both sides of the meat with kosher salt. Then press one side of each filet in the cracked pepper, and leave the steaks pepper side down.</p><p>Heat a heavy skillet.</p><p>Add EVOO and a bit of butter to the skillet.</p><p>Place the peppered side down in the hot skillet. Cook for about 2-3 minutes, carefully turn the steaks over, and then place the skillet into a preheated 350 oven. Cook for another 2 minutes or until it reaches your desired doneness. (Yes, you really do need a good instant-read thermometer! I recommend the ThermoPop... not wildly expensive and pretty flawless.) I’d suggest 125-130 degrees.</p><p>Let the steaks rest at least 5 minutes.</p><p>I had zucchini and yellow squash... dill... and potatoes from the Test Kitchen. So I made our house fave, sautéed potatoes with truffle oil: I cubed three Idaho-type potatoes and nuked them for about 7 minutes in water, then drained and sautéed them until crispy and golden, and tossed them with some truffle oil. Yes, truffle oil.</p><p>I diced and quickly sautéed the squash and tossed in some dill when it was off the heat.</p><p>Hot plates.</p><p>Steak.</p><p>Hot sauce... No, not <i>Hot Sauce</i>... but luscious warmed port 'n' shallot sauce!</p><p>Hot veg.</p><p>Hot truffle-y potatoes.</p><p>Happy Anniversary!!!!!</p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4d528f3ea1d7ff144becd09e5d6c8fc8b7e29d1c/original/steak-au-poivre-2a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjIweDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="620" /></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61409592023-04-08T17:00:00-04:002023-04-11T14:23:34-04:00Risotto with Ham, Peas and Carraway<p>So the next installment of Our Easter Ham Adventure was a totally new one for us: ham, pea, and caraway risotto...</p><p>Oh boy! Home run!</p><p>I cubed about a cup of the ham, and fried it just a bit in a drop of EVOO. I set that aside, and began to make a very basic risotto...</p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/perfect_risotto_at_home_with_chicken_and_tarragon/" data-imported="1">http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/perfect_risotto_at_home_with_chicken_and_tarragon/</a></p><p>About halfway through the cooking, I added a tablespoon of caraway seeds, and the ham. Then, about 2 minutes before the rice was ready, I added a cup of frozen peas. Once the peas and rice were perfect, I turned off the heat, whipped in a tablespoon of unsalted butter, and added 1/2 cup of Parmesan...</p><p>After plating, I sprinkled on some minced scallions (chives would also work), and an extra dusting of Parmesan.</p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/50a6f6f5aa3e6b9eae27e3938e9b78d033709095/original/risotto-with-ham-peas-and-carraway-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTcweDQ1NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="456" width="570" /></p><p>Absolutely delicious and, again... Not at all a re-heated Easter meal!!!</p><p>The cheapskate in me loves reporting to you that we are now at the point where the prime ingredient - the ham - in these meals now costs just $5 for 2! That's right, $2.50 per person...</p><p>And again, to quote The Carpenters... "We've only just begun..."</p><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412652023-04-08T12:00:00-04:002023-09-27T15:10:29-04:00Light and Luscious Cranberry Ice Cream<p> </p><p>Looking for a great way to use that bag o' cranberries taking up room in your freezer?</p><p>Have I got a surprise for you!</p><p>As you well know, I am a huge fan of the late, great Barbara Tropp. Her game-changing light ice creams have been in my repertoire since I first encountered her <i>China Moon</i> cookbook years ago. I make various citrusy versions using lime, lemon, orange, and blood orange, but over the holidays I thought I’d try a new variation...</p><p>Cranberry!</p><p>So I took a bag of frozen cranberries and cooked them with a small amount of sugar (about 1/3 C) and water (about 1/2C water, though you might find you need a bit more). Cook until the berries burst and the mixture turns “saucy.” Let it cool a bit and add 2C half-and-half, let it sit for a bit, and then strain through a fine mesh sieve. Freeze in an ice cream machine.</p><p>Now, this was my first attempt, and I discovered that this needed a bit more punch. Hmmmmmm… What goes with cranberries? Turkey was a no-go...</p><p>Wait... Oranges!</p><p>So I made a bit of simple syrup, boiling equal parts sugar and water until the sugar is dissolved. But this simple syrup was full of microplaned orange zest! I let it cool, strained out the zest, and used this as a sauce over the ice cream... SUCCESS!!! This turned out to be one of those miracle pairings that made the flavors of each element more intense.</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/036f19cdc86eead8ce3c35b63e745da00ece220e/original/cranberry-3a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDkweDUxMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="510" width="490" /></p><p>And it was <i>really</i> good! I’m going to continue to play with it next holiday season, so be sure to let me know what you think when <i>you</i> try it.</p><p>PS. Yes. It's REALLY pink.</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412272023-04-08T11:10:00-04:002023-04-09T09:18:34-04:00Hamapalooza 2023 Continues with Ham Chowder!<p><i>Warm up the bowls for this Hamapalooza Flashback!</i></p><p>With the cool, wet Spring going on this May (we had a fire in the fireplace last night!), I'm reminded of one more blessing from Easter 2018...</p><p>Ham Chowder!</p><p>I’ve never really been a big chowder fan because... wait for it... I don’t like clams. Mea Culpa! I just don’t. But I love ham and potatoes and bacon, so I thought maybe a different kind of chowder was worth trying...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4a4e8ddb13d06d1a6c42ca305b05cc79ec6a18da/original/ham-chowder-1x-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDI1eDQwOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="409" width="425" /></p><p>I trimmed and chopped about 1½ C of the Easter ham, sautéed it in some EVOO until it started to crisp, and set it aside. Then I chopped 4 rashers of bacon, sautéed those until crisp and added them to the ham, and then returned the rendered fat to the pan. In the fat, I sautéed some chopped onions and celery until soft.</p><p>Now it gets strange. Really successful, but strange.</p><p>I had some colcannon in the fridge...</p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/bonus-recipes/posts/colcannon" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents=""><i>https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/bonus-recipes/posts/colcannon</i></a></p><p>Chowder often has a potato component... <i>ergo... </i>I added the colcannon to the sautéed vegetables, loosened it with some stock (though water would be fine), and cooked it all for a bit until everything seemed soft.</p><p>Then I puréed it all with an immersion blender... added some cream... and the ham and bacon... and a handful of frozen corn...</p><p>Tasted. Added salt and pepper. Ladled the chowder into hot bowls. Topped it with a shower of chives.</p><p>Now there’s a chowder I can get behind.</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/91ce2e1c7115707973192e22451be12379f6b34f/original/ham-chowder-2x.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjU3eDQ3NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="474" width="657" /></p><p>Next time I might add some caraway. Or some hot sauce. Or some... the list goes on.</p><p>I love this soup. So, if Spring is still cool where you are, or if you spend your summers in air-conditioned splendor... Don't wait!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61409572023-04-07T14:00:00-04:002023-04-11T14:20:49-04:00Easter Ham Hash<p>You know I hate waste.</p><p>You know I'm cheap.</p><p>You know throwing food away makes me crazy.</p><p>And you know I really hate the word "leftovers." Could there possibly be a less appetizing descriptor for a meal? Who would want to eat something called... that?</p><p>I firmly believe that cooked food, waiting to be repurposed, is one of the greatest gifts an imaginative cook can receive.</p><p>Which leads me to the two holidays that give said cook the greatest number of gifts: Thanksgiving and Easter. As Easter's recently come and gone, I have in my fridge, as you might well imagine, about 8 pounds of ham.</p><p>Yes, for the two of us. I found a great sale on a Carando bone-in, hickory-smoked city ham. And though it was 9 pounds, I still bought it...</p><p>Because, much as I love a holiday ham, I am even more enamored of all the things to be made with that ham in the days following.</p><p>The first was, not surprisingly, a very straightforward ham hash (I know, it sounds Dr. Seussian!). Crisply browned cubes of potato, onions and celery cooked until almost tender, and a cup of diced ham...</p><p>Salt, pepper, top it all with some sour cream mixed with a healthy shot of Dijon...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/71d1b031c79aec0f68abdc18e04e4b810fdec713/original/easter-ham-hash-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTU3eDQ0MSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="441" width="557" /></p><p>Makes me wish that Easter Monday came more frequently!</p><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412732023-04-07T10:00:00-04:002023-04-09T09:22:34-04:00Ham Cakes<p>Got Ham? Then you really must...</p><p>In my never-ending quest to “repurpose” the Easter Ham...</p><p>I am a big fan of cakes.</p><p>Don’t panic! I mean savory cakes: salmon, veggie, tuna, shrimp, chicken, etc. So, last night, I made a ham cake to outshine all others.</p><p>I chopped equal parts (approximately 1/2 C each) of ham and - the magic happens here - potato gratin made with Gruyère, cream, and thyme...</p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/happy-easter-ham-potatoes-au-gratin-and-asparagus" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents=""><i>https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/happy-easter-ham-potatoes-au-gratin-and-asparagus</i></a></p><p>Added an egg, about 1T Dijon, and maybe 1/3 C panko. A little S&P.</p><p>Shaped it into 4 medium cakes... coated them in more panko... fried them in EVOO until golden and gorgeous. And served them with a drizzle of brown butter and fried capers.</p><p>If you have never believed me before... Believe me now!</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/d9cd14d5e57129c7bd722426873c0cafd0aef35a/original/hamapalooza-cakes-1a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzIweDU1MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="550" width="720" /></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61409612023-04-07T05:00:00-04:002023-04-09T09:09:58-04:00Ham and Ricotta Ravioli with Parmesan and Chives<p><i>Just another reminder that some of the most delicious meals come from trying something you haven't cooked before! Here I am with a memorable bit of ham from 2014...</i></p><p>It's experiment time... again. I'm always on the lookout for new ways to stuff ravioli... and today I have ham, I have ricotta, I have the ingredients for pasta...</p><p>So I thought it was a good time to try some ham and ricotta ravioli!</p><p>And I wanted it to be very very ham-y. So I diced a whole cup of ham, then chopped it a lot more and added it to just 1/2 cup of fresh ricotta (my recipe is <a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/homemade-ricotta-with-fresh-herbs" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="here">here</a>). I sprinkled in a bit of Parmesan, tasted it, and added a tiny bit of my home-smoked salt and some black pepper.</p><p>Then I tasted it again. <i>Remember, my friends, you can never taste too frequently!</i></p><p>I decided to add just a few chives, because I planned on a simple sauce, and I wanted ham and smoke to be the predominant flavors. I'd made the pasta dough earlier, so it would have time to rest in the fridge. Take a look <a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/spinach-ravioli" target="_blank" data-link-type="url" contents="here">here</a> for my take on the simple techniques of making pasta and filling ravioli...</p><p>For the sauce, I melted 1/2 stick of unsalted butter, and let it continue cooking gently until the milk solids separated and began to brown: a classic beurre noisette.</p><p>After gently boiling the ravioli, I plated them, poured a little of the butter over them, and finished with a dusting of Parmesan and a few more chives.</p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a443255bc90d59a84f0218a61be747fd4d971eba/original/ham-ricotta-ravioli-with-butter-and-chives-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6ODAweDU3MSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="571" width="800" /></p><p>As they say in my favorite movie <i>White Christmas</i> (and please adjust for inflation): "You'd pay $6.60, or even $8.80...." This is that good! I think I may start buying whole hams more often!</p><p>PS. We're now down to $4 per meal... $2 per serving.</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/65960522023-04-05T00:00:00-04:002023-04-09T09:20:50-04:00Ham and Turkey Sandwiches on Homemade Bread with Cheddar Cheese<p>OK... so this is hardly a recipe, but OMG was it fun. Through some idiocy on my part, the day after Easter left me with not only ham, but also the rolled turkey breast I had concocted a few days before. Sometimes I just don’t think.</p><p>I had also made bread, which of course made us both think SANDWICHES 😃😃😃 </p><p>4 slices of bread... slathered with mayo and a touch of Dijon... a sprinkling of smoked salt and smoked pepper (to replace the bacon I didn’t have on hand)... two thin slices of the turkey breast roll per sandwich... a slice of ham per... same with very thin whispers of cheddar... and then... one of my favorite ingredients, shunned by self-conscious foodies everywhere: ICEBERG LETTUCE! </p><p>Not remotely fancy. </p><p>But truly, truly soul-satisfying with a glass of wine... even with no tomato or bacon.</p><p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/69427b7f9cf44fd123791b46a6d998c0ecbdf5b2/original/ham-and-turkey-sandwich.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412342023-02-07T14:00:00-05:002023-03-11T14:45:05-05:00Perfect Halibut with Fried Capers, Buttered Orzo, Chives, and Greens from the Garden<p> </p><p>Sometimes the universe is a lovely thing.</p><p>The test kitchen gave me a perfect piece of first-of-the-season wild halibut, frozen at sea.</p><p>OMG. Gorgeous.</p><p>And with fish this perfect, first, Do No Harm!!!</p><p>I salted and peppered it.</p><p>I sautéed it in butter and EVOO until golden. About 2 minutes a side. Try not to overcook.</p><p>A very very simple sauce of melted butter in which I fried capers.</p><p>Greens from the garden. Barely dressed.</p><p>Buttered orzo.</p><p>Tons of chives.</p><p>Heaven.</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/da675a1d9e819d74e8041e7724cd0016210c28d9/original/perfect-halibut2-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6ODQweDU3OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="579" width="840" /></p><p>Really... Heaven.</p><p>This fish is a rare treat. When you have the chance... DO IT!!! <i>(but do it simply)</i></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410512023-01-17T23:25:00-05:002023-09-27T15:17:13-04:00The Guilty Pleasure of Deviled Ham<p>Here's a Hamapalooza 2015 recipe that's sure to tickle your hambone!</p><p>When you reach that point with your Easter ham that you have...</p><p>Shall we say...</p><p>Odds and ends... Pieces that are still really good, but way too irregular to use for most recipes...</p><p>I'd suggest you consider one of my favorite fatty salty indulgences: Deviled Ham!</p><p>I know, I know, it might seem to be just too reminiscent of bad 60's cookbooks. But <i>trust me</i>, making your own deviled ham will set off salivary fireworks!</p><p>There are no amounts. Because I don't know how much ham you're working with...</p><p>That said:</p><p>Put some small pieces of ham in your food processor. Add chopped capers, or pickles, or olives, or all of the above. Maybe some parsley, a shot of hot sauce and/or Worcestershire sauce, and some black pepper, with your mustard of choice... <i>(Ain't mustard grand?)</i></p><p>Process a bit. Then add mayo - not a ton, but don't be stingy! Start with an amount equivalent to about half the amount of ham. Process. Add more if you want to. Taste for salt <i>(I doubt you'll need it)</i>.</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/d0a9e22bc1dc54b66a66f81f25537f4ebe0623de/original/deviled-ham-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjYzeDMyOCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="328" width="663" /></p><p>And remember, this can be a smooth spread... or a chunky one!</p><p>A perfect spoonful of this on a piece of good baguette... Heaven.</p><p>And please, feel free to change up the ingredients: smoked paprika, a little onion or garlic, other herbs... You'll be wishing you had more ham with which to experiment... Believe me!</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/de53b99eb202eafaf6cf5a90916b5bbe78b00475/original/deviled-ham-3-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Njc2eDQwNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="406" width="676" /></p><p>So there you have it, Dear Readers: seven extraordinary recipes, from Easter dinner to pasta to Panini to Spanish croquetas to stir-fry, all from one gorgeous ham. And the price of each of serving of ham in those meals?</p><p>$1.57. That's right, my friends, one dollar and fifty-seven cents. Not counting some mighty tasty lunches.</p><p>See you next Easter for Hamapalooza 2016!</p><p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412122023-01-17T07:00:00-05:002023-03-11T14:51:16-05:00Simon & Garfunkel Pizza with Fresh Ricotta and... Herbs<p> </p><p>The warm weather this weekend gave us hope for the spring and the return of our abundant herb garden. And I remembered one of my favorite pizzas to make when the chives are in bloom!</p><p>And that has to be the name, right? Because, as I'm sure you've guessed...</p><p>The herbs were parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme.</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/e42978e667d172094160f23efce00f49a504577e/original/simon-garfunkel-pizza-1-final.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTc0eDUxNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="514" width="574" /></p><p>I had no mozzarella, so I made a quick batch of ricotta...</p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/homemade-ricotta-with-fresh-herbs" data-link-type="url"><i>https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/homemade-ricotta-with-fresh-herbs</i></a></p><p>And, instead of Parmigiano, I thought it might be fun to use a bit of the queso Ibérico I brought home from the test kitchen. It's a bit like manchego, but sharper.</p><p>I sautéed a half an onion (chopped) in EVOO until soft but not brown... tossed in a LOT of chopped garlic and turned off the heat. (I didn't really want to cook the garlic, just to begin to soften it.) I let that mixture cool, added 1/2 C of the chopped herbs (the balance is up to you), and spread this over the stretched dough...</p><p><a class="no-pjax" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/basic-pizza-dough" data-link-type="url"><i>https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/basic-pizza-dough</i></a></p><p>Topped it with the cheeses (not too heavily... the point is to taste the garlic and herbs)...</p><p>Baked it at 550˚...</p><p>Let it cool a bit (essential)...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3f689c4eb5d42120ee22a87fd44238d0951b8b97/original/simon-garfunkel-pizza-2-final.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Njk5eDQxMiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="412" width="699" /></p><p>And really, really enjoyed!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/64834142022-11-19T19:50:00-05:002022-11-19T20:13:12-05:00You'll Be Thankful for These Thanksgiving Stock Tips!<p>Thanksgiving 2021 saw the full range of celebrations - large and tiny - and this year, whether you're easing your way back to "normal" or still sharing the day with just a few folks, these tricks from TOC's archive will definitely help speed things up on Thanksgiving Day... and then REALLY help in the days that follow! </p>
<p><a contents="" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/stock-up-on-turkey-stock" target="_blank"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/df305ef08b3f1869f4b58255168af63468d8c056/original/img-2683.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span class="font_regular"><a contents="Stock Up on Turkey Stock!" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/stock-up-on-turkey-stock" style="" target="_blank"><span style="color:#d35400;">Stock Up on Turkey Stock!</span></a></span></p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412032022-11-17T13:00:00-05:002022-11-19T20:17:40-05:00Turkey Mole Enchiladas! (Mo-lay! Mo-lay!)<p>As always, this year I'm determined to come up with some new ways to use the Remains of the (Thanksgiving) Day. Not that I don’t love the annual progression of favorites!!</p>
<p>I spied a bag of flour tortillas in the fridge (from the test kitchen, of course, but easily found these days in your neighborhood market). This started me thinking, and, as usual, whilst thinking, I began sautéing a minced onion and a ton of minced garlic...</p>
<p>While that sautéed, I looked around the kitchen and found some cooked rice (just a small amount), a can of black beans and, as I seemed to be heading in a direction, I sought out chili powder, ground cumin, smoked salt, red pepper flakes, and some turkey.</p>
<p>Oh, and a bit of cocoa powder.</p>
<p><em>(In future, I’d probably use chocolate instead of the cocoa, which seemed a bit bitter to me... But Charlie absolutely loved it... So what do I know?)</em></p>
<p>I added the rice, the drained and rinsed black beans, the chili powder, cumin, salt, red pepper, black pepper, and cocoa to the onions and garlic. Then a splash of white wine... then a splash of chicken stock... and, for good measure, a splash of turkey stock...</p>
<p>Next, I added the remains of the Thanksgiving succotash, about 1/2 C of corn and lima beans and bacon. This was tasting <em>GOOD</em>. But it was a little thin, and I didn’t want to reduce it too much because the flavors were already pretty potent.</p>
<p>AHA!</p>
<p>I remembered that I’d made some very plain <span class="s1">velouté</span> with which to dilute the gravy on Thanksgiving (I’d gone a bit overboard on the duxelles, so it tasted a bit too mushroomy). I started adding the <span class="s1">velouté</span> by the tablespoon... et voilà! After about three tablespoons, it was creamy, viscous, and some of the sharp edges had been smoothed... not too much, just enough...</p>
<p>A pinch more plain (not smoked) salt, then I started stuffing the tortillas (which I’d barely softened in the microwave). I put a layer of the sauce over the bottom of a glass baking dish, placed the filled tortillas on top, added a bit of sauce over the tortillas... grated some sharp cheddar on top... and placed the dish in a 350 oven until it all started to bubble. Switched to broil for just a minute! Scooped out these beauties onto hot plates, sprinkled the top with minced cilantro and...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a234a6b15f54e7887e9c9ec8bb63e0cce7a06ca4/original/turkey-mole-enchiladas-2-a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Njk3eDUyMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="523" width="697" /></p>
<p>Folks, this was immediately in the top five... maybe even the top three!</p>
<p>Any changes? As I said, perhaps chocolate instead of cocoa. Maybe some sour cream. All I know is, it was So Good we're both still talking about it days later. Delicious. And really pretty on the plate...</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/71064762022-11-14T00:00:00-05:002022-11-19T20:16:29-05:00Toshiba Toaster Oven - A Review<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/2068d7f2798834b9dd883d03a91913b97c3f0764/original/toshiba-digital-toaster-oven.jpg/!!/meta:eyJzcmNCdWNrZXQiOiJiemdsZmlsZXMifQ==/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>
<p>Over the past few weeks, I’ve been doing some testing with the new Toshiba Digital Toaster Oven. First off, let me admit to you that, as far as toaster ovens go, my experience is firmly rooted in the ‘70s. Seriously. I have had a couple over the years, and they were both no-frills versions from decades ago. So imagine my surprise when I pulled this beauty out of the box. </p>
<p>It promises to do things that I never thought toaster ovens were capable of. To me, a toaster oven is basically a way to reheat leftovers without turning on the “real” oven. But this one promises to do actual cooking. And, to my great surprise, many of the promises are true. </p>
<p>I’ve baked cookies, I’ve made gougères. And the results were wonderful. I wasn’t in love with the TOAST function, but I think that may just be something I need to become more familiar with. I haven’t cooked any meat yet, but I’ll let you know how that goes. </p>
<p>If I have any caveats, one concerns the various programmed settings. And right off the bat, I will admit to you that I’m from a generation that can get a little confused/annoyed by pre-set programs. I’d rather be able to set the temp and the time simply. And, of course, after working with it a few times, I now know that I can do just that. It just seems a bit unnecessarily cluttered. The other caveat is that, to me, the manual seems written in another language and then clumsily translated into English. But, once again, as I continue to become more comfortable with the appliance, I’m no longer relying on the manual. </p>
<p>The exterior of the oven can get quite hot, so be careful until you become accustomed to the heat. </p>
<p>The dials are simple to use, and the screen is easy to read. </p>
<p>To sum up: This is NOT a ‘70s reheating box. It’s sleek and attractive. It handles the actual cooking functions I’ve tried really well. I would never have expected the results with delicate pastry and cookies that this oven provides. And, for all of the expanded range of options, the footprint, or is that counter-print, is no larger than the one-trick-pony toaster ovens of my youth. I finally understand the space saving, “leave the big oven off” promises. This toaster oven has gotten me very excited about cooking all sorts of things in it. </p>
<p> I’m impressed up to this point. There’s even a rotisserie set-up. That one will need to prove itself to me (the oven seems awfully small for a rotisserie… but this little beauty is continuing to amaze… so I won’t be surprised if the rotisserie is a success as well)! </p>
<p>So if you’re in the market for a toaster oven that does a LOT more than reheat leftovers, and if space is an issue, or the idea of NOT always having to turn on your full-sized oven appeals to you… I urge you to take a look at the Toshiba Digital Toaster Oven. </p>
<p>And PS… It looks GREAT on your counter! </p>
<p>And a 2nd PS…Just cooked a huge sweet potato for dinner… Perfect!!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/68830932022-01-29T13:48:18-05:002022-01-29T13:48:18-05:00Incendiary Chicken Curry<p>I had some chicken breast (1 small breast and a small piece I had trimmed off the 2nd breast) that I needed to use, and the curry craving was strong. </p>
<p>I cut the chicken into about ¾ inch cubes and put it in a bowl with 2T microplaned garlic, and 2T microplaned ginger. To that, I added a splash of oil, 1T Kashmiri Chili Powder, a pinch (or more) of red pepper flakes, a pinch of ground toasted cumin seed, 2t garam masala (or a good curry powder), a pinch of ground coriander, a small pinch of cinnamon, and a bit of smoked salt. I mixed this well and set it aside for a half an hour or so. </p>
<p>In a saucier, I cooked 1 minced medium onion in 2T vegetable oil on low heat for about half an hour, until the onions were turning a deep golden brown. And then I added some turmeric and 1T good tomato paste. After cooking this for 2 minutes, I added the chicken, a heaping tablespoon of grainy mustard, and all of the marinade with the heat remaining low. Whenever the mixture looked dry, I added small splashes of chicken stock. As usual, I tasted constantly (and I did add a bit more salt and red pepper flakes as well as a lot of freshly ground black pepper). Then I turned it off and let it sit, because, like any stew, the flavors needed time to get acquainted! When dinner time rolled around, I made some basmati rice, reheated the curry, and served it together in hot bowls. Just before taking the bowls to the table, I garnished with cilantro (leaves and tender stems) and a good sprinkling of poppy seeds. </p>
<p>This was one of those sit at the table and talk forever meals. Try it! Heat levels are obviously up to you, but the heat is half the fun.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/9ea872d5dada5507813b0df24034b99118e924bc/original/incendiary-chicken-curry-with-basmati-rice-1.jpg/!!/meta:eyJzcmNCdWNrZXQiOiJiemdsZmlsZXMifQ==/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/68203642021-11-24T14:40:58-05:002021-11-24T14:41:50-05:00Just in Time for The Holidays!<p>So... we all have good days and bad days. But you know what makes a GREAT day? The arrival of a box from @sitkasalmonshares...</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4246dd001ec8ae5a65ae00d6360d1c60da32f9b0/original/2dcd7450-3133-4449-a968-bd8e23dd14fa.jpg/!!/meta:eyJzcmNCdWNrZXQiOiJiemdsZmlsZXMifQ==/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>
<p>...truly extraordinary seafood!</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a70fa818479863fe46415a77d03b2f6b259658a0/original/9582b38c-1607-4493-8a23-83308dcc93f8.jpg/!!/meta:eyJzcmNCdWNrZXQiOiJiemdsZmlsZXMifQ==/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>
<p>Do yourself a huge favor and give them a try during the holidays!</p>
<p>You can also find them at <a contents="Sitka Salmon Shares - Order Premium Wild-Caught Alaska Seafood Online" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://sitkasalmonshares.com/" target="_blank">Sitka Salmon Shares - Order Premium Wild-Caught Alaska Seafood Online</a>!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/65781442021-03-14T16:00:00-04:002021-03-18T16:14:18-04:00It's (Always) Time for Soda Bread!<p>Following a large number of requests... I'm going to post a recipe for soda bread today... </p>
<p>Bear with me... and be prepared, I like a far more traditional recipe... no fat and no sugar or raisins... </p>
<p>So... while I have a few minutes... </p>
<p>4C AP flour… or 3½ C AP flour and ½C whole wheat </p>
<p>1t salt </p>
<p>1t baking soda </p>
<p>1T caraway seeds </p>
<p>1½ -1¾C buttermilk (or...if you want it richer, whole milk soured with about a tablespoon of sour cream and a splash of white vinegar) </p>
<p>Combine all ingredients and mix... but just barely. Mound the dough onto a well-greased cookie sheet... or, if you have a Silpat, this is a great time to use it... and slice a deep cross in the top (to let the fairies out!). </p>
<p>Bake for 15 minutes in a preheated 450° oven. Lower the heat to 400° and bake another 20-30 minutes. </p>
<p>Now trust me on this: you need to let it cool for at least 15 minutes on a rack... no matter how much you want eat it right away. But when the 15 minutes are up... slice away, slather it with good unsalted Irish butter... sprinkle with good sea salt... and thank the gods that there will always be an Ireland! </p>
<p>The day after, this bread will be very dry... but what a good excuse to toast it and add even more butter! </p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/eb71eae908992e1de372cbe56b778dbb9af4cce5/original/best-soda-bread.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/65041242020-12-19T22:40:00-05:002020-12-20T15:38:58-05:00The Best Salmon I Ever Had<p>I realize this sounds like hyperbole. It’s not. This was stunning. But let me rewind the clock a bit. </p>
<p>Out of the blue, I received a note from Grace Parisi, an old friend from days gone by in the <em>Food & Wine</em> Test Kitchen. She is now Culinary Director for Sitka Salmon Shares, one of the new “direct to you” fresh frozen wild Alaskan fish and seafood delivery services. She sent me a box of their fish to try!</p>
<p>OMG. I was stunned. The fish arrived frozen solid... a good sign. The packaging is totally recyclable... another good sign. Then, after thawing a piece of salmon... I did the sniff test. Nothing. Really. No smell at all. I will admit that this confused me. No smell at all?</p>
<p>So I decided the only way to really test this salmon was to cook it as simply as possible. I heated some olive oil in a non-stick skillet. I salted the flesh side of the fillet. I cooked the flesh side for about a minute, and gently turned it over and cooked for another minute (I like my salmon barely cooked).</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/80f952e08f36ef35b91ba1035e7e6829acc1a517/original/sitka-salmon-in-the-pan.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>
<p>I ground a little pepper over each filet and then plated them with wild rice, asparagus, and a brown butter sauce containing capers and shallots. </p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5943bc1b4124e6b8b1ffa5f4cae70efca73ae34a/original/sitka-salmon-on-the-plate.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>
<p>We sat down. </p>
<p>We tasted the salmon. </p>
<p>We started laughing. </p>
<p>Just so you know, laughing is our highest compliment, because... “it’s so good you just have to laugh.” </p>
<p>Deeply flavorful, but at the same time, delicate. It tasted like it was seconds out of the water. </p>
<p>I am a convert! Seriously the best salmon ever. And we eat A LOT of salmon. </p>
<p>Check out <strong><a contents="Sitka Salmon Shares" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://sitkasalmonshares.com/" style="" target="_blank">Sitka Salmon Shares</a></strong> online, <strong>@sitkashares</strong> on Twitter or <strong>sitkasalmonshares</strong> on Instagram. You’ll be glad you did.</p>
<p>Thank you, Grace!!!</p>
<p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/64955642020-12-09T16:30:00-05:002020-12-09T16:30:00-05:00Mashed Potato Tots<p>I’m incapable of making the right amount of mashed potatoes. I love them... new, old, hot, cold... so I always make too many. And this Thanksgiving was no exception. </p>
<p>But then on Friday, I had this silly idea. </p>
<p>I took about 1 1/2 C cold mashed potatoes, added an egg, 1/3 C grated cheddar, lots of pepper, some salt, and some onion powder. Mixed it all up, and then folded in 1/4-1/3 C flour. I apologize for approximate amounts... ...it will all depend on your mashed potatoes. Too much flour might make them easier to handle, but it will also make them really tough, so be prepared. This should be a pretty “soft” mixture. </p>
<p>I put the mixture in a piping bag, and piped out fat 1-inch long “tots” into a bowl of panko, carefully coated them completely, and then fried them in 225˚-235˚ oil until dark golden. As I removed each batch, I sprinkled them with salt and put them on a rack in a sheet pan in a 350˚ oven. </p>
<p>This was just silly and wonderful. We laughed with each bite. </p>
<p>Every day... No. </p>
<p>But as an occasional crunchy, wickedly satisfying treat... You bet your tater tots.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/2787534a57eec48adb54d41e8e0d06cd2669e169/original/mashed-potato-tots.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/64834492020-11-22T17:20:30-05:002020-11-23T08:41:05-05:00Repeat After Me: Spatchcock That Bird!<p>We love turkey! Moist and juicy, seasoned beautifully, with each section of the bird cooked to perfection... I've tried many methods over the years.<br><br>And the winner is: SPATCHCOCK! Click on the bird to learn everything you need to know about the process except, of course, for the tasting.</p>
<p><a contents="" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/trust-me-take-the-spatchcock-express" style="" target="_blank"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/95ea38b61cb392e5865f8c41f70f112d4e64c0d7/original/spatchcocked-turkey.jpg/!!/undefined/b:W1sic2l6ZSIsImxhcmdlIl1d.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /> <img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/924e309104860a82886391e88c4be2c3581443bf/original/out-of-the-oven.jpg/!!/undefined/b:W1sic2l6ZSIsImxhcmdlIl1d.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></a></p>
<p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/64002072020-08-02T17:44:25-04:002020-08-02T18:07:07-04:00Duxelles Pizza<p>Quite possibly my best pizza ever...</p>
<p>No, really!</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/7b805a1722e875a548985d0b59baa78e81b713a5/original/duxelles-pizza-2.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>
<p>After finding a huge mushroom sale, I knew I had to make some duxelles FAST... because mushrooms just don’t last long. So, of the ten 8 oz. containers we bought, I cleaned, processed, and cooked down seven. </p>
<p>I portioned and froze most of the duxelles, but decided to make something really mushroom-y for dinner. </p>
<p>Pizza! </p>
<p>I coated the pizza dough with a good layer of duxelles, added chopped tarragon and thyme from the garden, microplaned some garlic, sprinkled on some red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper... and then topped the pie with a judicious amount of fresh mozzarella and Parmigiano, drizzled it with EVOO, and baked. </p>
<p>When it emerged from the oven, I sprinkled it with one of my new favorites: Truffle Zest. </p>
<p>Well, after the first bite I realized that the Pizza Pantheon needs to make room...</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/6c7067801086e7a06789d314c23683076056ff0d/original/duxelles-pizza-1.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/63654592020-06-25T19:58:14-04:002020-06-25T19:58:42-04:00Onion. Ring. Game. Changer.<p>We all have our favorite batters for fish, for onion rings, for whatever. But I’m about to blow your mind, without taking your beloved batter away from you. </p>
<p>Use whatever (wet) batter and battering method you like. And then..... </p>
<p>Dip your wet battered onion rings in panko. </p>
<p>Fry as usual. </p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/63652c55145de5d5cdbd900ff4031ab71f12939c/original/perfect-onion-rings.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>
<p>You are most welcome 😀</p>
<p>Then again, if you have no panko in the house, these are damn good, too...<br><br><a contents="Fish Fry! Wild Caught Cod with Lemon Dill Sauce and Vidalia Onion Rings!" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/fish-fry-wild-caught-cod-with-lemon-dill-sauce-and-vidalia-onion-rings">Fish Fry! Wild Caught Cod with Lemon Dill Sauce and Vidalia Onion Rings!</a></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/63437602020-06-05T17:23:58-04:002020-06-05T17:23:58-04:00Dill, Pea, and Lemon Risotto<p>I know I’ve given you A LOT of risotto recipes over the years. But this one is so simple, so delicious, and so Spring-in-a-Bowl, that I think you may forgive me. </p>
<p>Make my basic risotto... <a contents="" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/perfect-risotto-at-home-with-chicken-and-tarragon" target="_blank">https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/perfect-risotto-at-home-with-chicken-and-tarragon</a></p>
<p>About 3 minutes before it’s done, toss in some frozen baby peas. </p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a3909ddc4221f3060e611b97f6c6b659eac86275/original/dill-pea-and-lemon-risotto-1a.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>
<p>When they've cooked, stir in some fresh dill. Serve in hot bowls... topped with more dill and grated lemon zest. </p>
<p>This is a perfect spring dish.</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/62952682020-04-26T21:06:10-04:002020-04-26T21:27:30-04:00Spicy, Soothing Thai Green Curry Noodles<p>We were both craving something spicy. The week had been hellacious...</p>
<p>And it was only Wednesday.</p>
<p>So, though Asia seemed to be calling, making a big pot of rice held less than no appeal.</p>
<p>Hmmm...</p>
<p>I heated a can of good coconut milk with about 2T of my favorite green curry paste, then added some sugar, soy sauce, fish sauce, toasted ground cumin, and a hefty shake of red pepper flakes. I boiled a pound of linguini and, while that cooked, I minced about 3/4C Thai basil and 1/2C peanuts. </p>
<p>I drained and added the almost cooked noodles to the coconut milk mixture, added a little bit of the basil, and continued to cook until the pasta was done.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4e49b8e8620f2f6ca5fa9c456d1ae9787a17831e/original/thai-green-curry-noodles-1.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>
<p>Then I plated it in hot bowls... topped it with some sliced scallions, lime zest, peanuts, Thai basil, and a sprinkle of the ground cumin... and served. </p>
<p>All of the fun of Thai Curry in 10 minutes! This one’s a keeper. And you could also add chicken, shrimp, or ground meat...</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/23a8bc8e8a82cf254d24fcd32476f6651309c3b3/original/thai-green-curry-beef-noodles.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/62504192020-03-15T17:32:33-04:002020-03-15T17:32:33-04:00Tuna Cakes with Broccoli di Rape<p>Sometimes, a tiny little thing changes something from good... to classic. </p>
<p>Last night, I decided to make tuna cakes. It’s one of our favorites, and it generally leans, or leaps, in a vaguely Asian direction. </p>
<p>But I also had some broccoli di rape that was whispering my name.</p>
<p>So I started thinking more Mediterranean than Asian. I also had some rosemary and a clementine. </p>
<p>Hmmmmm... </p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/cb24f2a715d45e81b599852622e7a380efbd7909/original/tuna-cakes-1a.jpg/!!/b:W10=.jpg" class="size_l justify_center border_" /></p>
<p>I took one can of tuna in oil (keeping the oil in, because... why wouldn’t I? ) </p>
<p>Quick sidebar: this has to be GOOD canned tuna. Now I don’t mean the billions-of-dollars per jar stuff... but really good. We are really fond of Genova (@genova-seafood). It tastes great, is sustainably harvested, and is not wildly expensive. (Shhhhh... you can even get it at Costco!) So please... avoid Chicken of the Star Bumble, etc. </p>
<p>Back to the recipe. </p>
<p>To the tuna and oil, add 1 egg, some salt and pepper, a few red pepper flakes, 2t finely chopped rosemary, 2 minced scallions (white and green), and enough panko to firm it up a bit. Form 4 cakes, and chill for an hour. </p>
<p>You and the cakes. </p>
<p>Coat in more panko and sauté in EVOO until golden on both sides. </p>
<p>The sauce is simply mayo, with some rinsed capers (I much prefer salt packed), and the micro-planed zest of a clementine or orange or tangerine. </p>
<p>The broccoli di rape is simply trimmed and sautéed with garlic, red pepper flakes, and some salt. </p>
<p>Other than the chilling of the cakes, this whole meal took about 15 minutes! </p>
<p>And it was so good that we stayed at the table talking for so long that we didn’t get to watch Outlander... </p>
<p>And for us to miss an evening with Jamie and Claire... you know it was special!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412972020-01-01T07:00:00-05:002020-02-09T17:59:44-05:00And in with The New! (Homemade Cultured Butter)<p>I'm really ready to move on from the wild Ups and Downs of 2019, but I'm also grateful to have seen my recipes published in <em>Food & Wine</em> magazine for the first time, and on a number of great digital platforms, too!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/9169b810f51ab8bffc8ee1ba584aad4b37d64d47/original/cultured-butter.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDUweDQ4NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="484" width="450" /></p>
<p>For instance, if you love butter, and who doesn't, check out this piece on MyRecipes.com...</p>
<p><em>https://www.myrecipes.com/how-to/cultured-butter-at-home</em></p>
<p>And Happy New Year!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412942019-11-30T03:29:48-05:002020-01-05T23:32:46-05:00Savor The Remains of The Day: Turkey Mole Enchiladas! (Turkey & Chocolate! Olé!)
<p> </p>
<p><em>This experiment from last Thanksgiving will definitely be making a repeat appearance on our table this year! It's staggeringly good, if I do say so myself...)</em></p>
<p>As always, this year I'm determined to come up with some new ways to use the Remains of the (Thanksgiving) Day. Not that I don’t love the annual progression of favorites!!</p>
<p>I spied a bag of flour tortillas in the fridge (from the test kitchen, of course, but easily found these days in your neighborhood market). This started me thinking, and, as usual, whilst thinking, I began sautéing a minced onion and a ton of minced garlic...</p>
<p>While that sautéed, I looked around the kitchen and found some cooked rice (just a small amount), a can of black beans and, as I seemed to be heading in a direction, I sought out chili powder, ground cumin, smoked salt, red pepper flakes, and some turkey.</p>
<p>Oh, and a bit of cocoa powder.</p>
<p><em>(In future, I’d probably use chocolate instead of the cocoa, which seemed a bit bitter to me... But Charlie absolutely loved it... So what do I know?)</em></p>
<p>I added the rice, the drained and rinsed black beans, the chili powder, cumin, salt, red pepper, black pepper, and cocoa to the onions and garlic. Then a splash of white wine... then a splash of chicken stock... and, for good measure, a splash of turkey stock...</p>
<p>Next, I added the remains of the Thanksgiving succotash, about 1/2 C of corn and lima beans and bacon. This was tasting <em>GOOD</em>. But it was a little thin, and I didn’t want to reduce it too much because the flavors were already pretty potent.</p>
<p>AHA!</p>
<p>I remembered that I’d made some very plain <span class="s1">velouté</span> with which to dilute the gravy on Thanksgiving (I’d gone a bit overboard on the duxelles, so it tasted a bit too mushroomy). I started adding the <span class="s1">velouté</span> by the tablespoon... et voilà! After about three tablespoons, it was creamy, viscous, and some of the sharp edges had been smoothed... not too much, just enough...</p>
<p>A pinch more plain (not smoked) salt, then I started stuffing the tortillas (which I’d barely softened in the microwave). I put a layer of the sauce over the bottom of a glass baking dish, placed the filled tortillas on top, added a bit of sauce over the tortillas... grated some sharp cheddar on top... and placed the dish in a 350 oven until it all started to bubble. Switched to broil for just a minute! Scooped out these beauties onto hot plates, sprinkled the top with minced cilantro and...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a234a6b15f54e7887e9c9ec8bb63e0cce7a06ca4/original/turkey-mole-enchiladas-2-a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Njk3eDUyMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="523" width="697" /></p>
<p>Folks, this was immediately in the top five... maybe even the top three!</p>
<p>Any changes? As I said, perhaps chocolate instead of cocoa. Maybe some sour cream. All I know is, it was So Good we're both still talking about it days later. Delicious. And really pretty on the plate...</p>
<p><em>Originally posted on November 26, 2017</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412912019-11-29T02:32:23-05:002020-01-05T23:32:45-05:00Savor The Remains of The Day: Holiday Crêpes - with Turkey or Ham!
<p> </p>
<p><em>These two recipes are De-lightful to make, De-licious to eat, and De-lovely to serve... with your favorite turkey or ham or chicken!</em></p>
<p><span style="color:#003300"><span style="text-decoration:underline"><strong>Time Machine: Chicken Crêpes</strong></span></span></p>
<p>I can't really explain it...</p>
<p>OK... I could say that some of the roast chicken <span style="color:#003300"><em>[or, you know, TURKEY or HAM!]</em></span> was sitting in the fridge waiting to be... repurposed.</p>
<p>I could say that it was the week before Christmas and I wanted to cook everything I could think of that is the antithesis of <em>new/fast/low-fat/fusion</em>, etc.</p>
<p>I could say that, knowing we'll be working in L.A. on Christmas day, I felt the need to pamper us now... in preparation.</p>
<p>Whatever the reason, I stepped into a time machine yesterday. I made a batch of crêpes... and yes, it's true, the first one never works!</p>
<p>For a basic crêpe recipe, one need look no further than Julia... No surprise there...</p>
<p>Combine 1 C AP flour, 2/3 C water, 2/3 C milk, 3 eggs, a pinch of salt, and 3 T melted butter. A blender works well, but whisking is fine. Let it sit for at least an hour. Heat a bit of butter in a non-stick pan. Pour in 1/4 cup batter, swirl it around the pan, pour any excess back into the batter... cook for about 30 seconds... flip it over... cook a few seconds... and remove to a plate.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4fed189365b89baa634805161063d0116b7657d0/original/chicken-crepes-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mjc1eDMzNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="336" width="275" /><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/031866e41e92a9935aa30edb224c0c1c19e8fe9d/original/chicken-crepes-3-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjY4eDMzNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="335" width="268" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"> <img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8925cc3018009512c30ad30f41318b66dffd6353/original/chicken-crepes-4-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjcyeDI3OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="279" width="272" /></p>
<p>Then I made a velouté... essentially a béchamel using my roast chicken stock in place of most of the milk. Then I sautéed some finely minced onions in - wait for it - schmaltz... which I had scraped off of the roast chicken stock.</p>
<p>I deglazed with a shot of Sherry and added some frozen (no need to thaw) tiny peas. These were combined with about three-quarters of the velouté, to which I added a generous helping of cubed roast chicken and a few scrapings of nutmeg, along with some salt and pepper.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/870ae39e0818b102595664a624ff9321b19217c9/original/chicken-crepes-5-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzcweDIzMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="233" width="370" /></p>
<p>I rolled up crêpes with about 2 tablespoons of the filling, put them snugly in a buttered baking dish, topped with a bit of the remaining velouté and a dusting of microplaned Parmesan, then off they went to spend 15 to 20 minutes in a 350° oven.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/de87a8960deca4d6fc2d88e4ec584c4a0956a692/original/chicken-crepes-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mzg5eDI5NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="294" width="389" /></p>
<p>All I can say is, do this right, and you bypass <em>The Magic Pan</em> and head straight for Paris... ooo la la!!!</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b20788b33bafafa524d4e0024cc125fb26576733/original/chicken-crepes-6-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTY3eDM3OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="378" width="567" /></p>
<p><em><strong><span style="color:#008000">(OK, this was originally posted on December 24, 2012, and though these tasted great, I hadn't quite mastered the technique or the photography. Check out the recipe below to see my progress! It's a terrific choice for those of you who prefer ham over turkey at Thanksgiving...)</span></strong><br></em></p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="color:#003300"><span style="text-decoration:underline"><strong>Ham 'n' Cheese Crêpes with Peas 'n' Dijon</strong></span></span></p>
<p>So I froze the hambone, knowing full well that there was still plenty of recoverable meat...</p>
<p>And today I decided to recover it...</p>
<p>I thawed the bone, stripped the remaining meat, and cut it into very small dice. Then I made a very basic velouté with butter, flour, and chicken stock. Off the heat I added a tablespoon of Dijon, a cup of shredded cheddar, a cup of frozen peas that I'd thawed in hot tap water, and the ham. And...</p>
<p>OMG... I could eat this mixture by the spoonful!!!</p>
<p>But I won't, because I also made a batch of basic savory crêpes. <em>[See above.]</em><br></p>
<p>I rolled each crêpe around a heaping tablespoon of the filling, then placed them all in a buttered baking dish. I had reserved about 1/2 cup of the velouté (without the ham and peas), and thinned it with another 1/3 cup of the stock.</p>
<p>I poured it over the crêpes, topped it with a bit of Parmesan, put it under the broiler for a few minutes until browned and bubbling, then turned off the broiler, turned the oven to 350°, and heated it all for about 15 minutes. I served it with a shower of chives and chive blossoms.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4f4371f28f962835d2a13df246c6a70af65f0ebe/original/ham-n-cheese-crepes-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6ODAweDU5OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="598" width="800" /></p>
<p>This is the Easter that keeps on giving! These crêpes were incredible...</p>
<p>And of course, this rich, flavorful ham now costs about $.50 a serving... and I still haven't made soup!!!</p>
<p><br></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412902019-11-29T02:23:00-05:002020-01-05T23:32:45-05:00Savor The Remains of The Day: Turkey Herder Pie!
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1"><em>If it makes you feel better, you can call it "Shepherd's Pie with Turkey," but either way, my after-Thanksgiving take on this comfort food favorite will have you gobbling it down!</em></p>
<p class="p1">So... The Remains were gloriously arrayed before me...</p>
<p class="p1">I took gravy, peas, gingered root vegetables (parsnips, turnips, carrots), dressing, balsamic pearl onions, and some diced turkey, mixed it all together, tasted it, salted and peppered it...</p>
<p class="p1">Placed it all in an ungreased baking dish, added some chopped cooked bacon, topped it with mashed potatoes (mixed with an egg )...</p>
<p class="p1">And baked it at 350 for about 30 minutes.</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/333a8134c0a708cd5759e4ef71251bf94e75ac79/original/turkey-herder-pie-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTYweDQ2MSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="461" width="560" /></p>
<p class="p1">Totally new for me! This really works. And it's as satisfying as the Thanksgiving meal itself... But new!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/9acecfb2419a7c0f8eb79222d710eb286f74e7fb/original/turkey-herder-pie-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTYzeDQ2OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="469" width="563" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412892019-11-29T02:00:00-05:002021-11-26T15:47:29-05:00And Now, On to The Remains of The Day! Turkey Sandwiches with Crunchy, Cheesy Potatoes!<p> </p>
<p>No one finishes the Thanksgiving meal. There are always containers of... remaining food.</p>
<p>What to do? Dump everything in a pot and call it soup? YUCK.</p>
<p>Instead of thinking of <em>The L Word</em> as some "used" food you need to get rid of... I think of "them" as if I have a <em>sous chef</em> who's already started preparing things for me to use!</p>
<p>Meats and vegetables can go into sauces, stuffings, "cakes," stews to top pastas or polenta...</p>
<p>Or mashed potatoes can top Shepherd's Pie or thicken soups... </p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/333a8134c0a708cd5759e4ef71251bf94e75ac79/original/turkey-herder-pie-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzgzeDMxNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="315" width="383" /></p>
<p>A salad can be added to cooked greens. A piece of cooked salmon is the base for a great salmon salad... a salmon cake... or hash. And though hash has a reputation as a dumping ground for "remains," with a little care it can be better than the original dish!</p>
<p>If you have a little bit of sauce left from a meat dish, add it to some day-old rice for a totally new side. All it takes is a little imagination, and these "pre-prepared" treasures are just advanced <em>mise en place!</em></p>
<p>So... I'm starting a campaign to remove the word "leftovers" from the language... Too Much Baggage.</p>
<p>From now on it's "THE L WORD," (with apologies to my dear friends in the Lesbian community)...</p>
<p>...Or <strong><em>The Remains of the Day!</em></strong></p>
<p>First among equals, of course, would be turkey sandwiches, and they are undoubtedly one of America's great contributions to world cuisine...</p>
<p>So. I had an extra loaf of the homemade bread that I'd made to turn into dressing...</p>
<p><a contents="The Very Best DressingStuffingDressing Ever and Made with My Homemade Bread, Of Course" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/the-very-best-dressing-stuffing-dressing-ever-and-made-with-my-homemade-bread-of-course" target="_blank">The Very Best DressingStuffingDressing Ever and Made with My Homemade Bread, Of Course</a></p>
<p>I had arugula... I had mayonnaise... and plenty of white meat from the Thanksgiving turkey.</p>
<p>Perfect.</p>
<p>But one must have potato chips! And I had no interest in a trip to the store. So...</p>
<p>Mashed potato croquettes!!!</p>
<p>I sautéed a bit of scallion, added it to mashed potatoes, tossed in some chives, a bit of flour, a teaspoon of baking powder, an egg, some Parmesan, salt and pepper... Then I rolled balls of the mixture in flour, then egg, then fresh breadcrumbs (made from some day-old baguette), and fried them in EVOO until puffed and golden brown...</p>
<p>They were served alongside these perfect sandwiches with a dollop of chive sour cream...</p>
<p>Who needs potato chips?!?!?</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b09f9e0260057a8bacad4ed54686cbd82ba0b219/original/turkey-and-arugula-sandwich-on-homemade-wheat-bread-and-potato-croquettes-with-chive-sour-cream-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTU5eDQyMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="423" width="559" /></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412862019-11-24T08:59:28-05:002020-01-05T23:32:45-05:00The Very Best Dressing/Stuffing/Dressing Ever (And Made With My Homemade Bread, Of Course!)
<p> </p>
<p><em>I'm proud to say that this is one of those recipes that's among This Old Chef's greatest hits! Your family will love it, I promise!</em></p>
<p>Dressing... Yes, I'm from Michigan and we called it "dressing" whether on the inside or the outside of the bird!</p>
<p>I went a little crazy this year, but after 8 months away from my kitchen, I think I was due. Instead of buying some baguettes and drying them out...</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c60a404f5d9baae9da1ce10c16d2f988246eb834/original/great-balls-o-dough-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjI3eDE5NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="195" width="227" /><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/884d1838746db7c1074d71f98d6c401a650b4756/original/loaves-in-the-pan-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MTg5eDE5NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="196" width="189" /></p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4e2b1e1e323383abb0791618213861c846dc446e/original/loaves-out-of-the-pan-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjE4eDIyOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="229" width="218" /><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5b1f84d48b61e22b921678a8589c94601dd81343/original/perfect-slices-of-bread-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjE5eDIyOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="229" width="219" /></p>
<p>... I made a few loaves of my hearty white bread, cubed about 2/3 of a loaf, dried it in the oven, let it sit out overnight, and then buzzed it in the food processor until it was very irregularly chopped.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/20cffb77a9848d4b2b59125bce8a05fb97602481/original/dressing-cubed-homemade-bread-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzkxeDI4NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="285" width="391" /></p>
<p><em>Sidebar: Since I first posted this recipe, I've come to prefer toasting the cubes of bread in the oven to get the most flavor and a bit more crispness from that lovely bread. Also, depending on my culinary mood, I vary the proportion of crispy cubes to breadcrumbs to get the texture I like. You probably know what your family likes best!</em></p>
<p>I realize most of you aren't going to MAKE bread just for dressing... but I love bread baking... and remember: you can reward your efforts with a slice of bread from the oven and a slather of good butter! (No one needs to know...)</p>
<p><em>Sidebar: Yes, I will give you my recipe for bread some day (which is basically 1 cup of whole wheat flour and 7 cups of all-purpose flour) but, in the meantime, think about how the flavors of your favorite baguette or boule or sourdough from the local bakery might excite your Thanksgiving dressing! You don't need Pepperidge Farm to provide you with their crumbs!</em></p>
<p>So...</p>
<p>I added the crumbs to masses of chopped onions, celery, and fresh sage that I had sautéed in butter until softened a bit, but not browned. (I chopped 1 huge onion and about 5 stalks of celery).</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5c15e218b68703a6564387ee7cfd0720fc5eb153/original/celery-onions-and-sage-in-the-pan-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjU4eDI4NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="286" width="258" /></p>
<p><em>Sidebar: This is a great place to save a step for the next day. Since you'll very probably make some hash over the next few days (won't you?), sauté extra sage, celery and onion and set it aside. Your hash is now about a third done!</em></p>
<p>OK, back to the dressing...</p>
<p>Make sure this mixture is well salted and peppered. Then moisten the mixture with some of the turkey stock that I KNOW you made in advance along with some melted butter (how much butter is up to you...). Place this in a well-buttered casserole, cover it with foil, and bake it for about 1/2 hour at 350° or so. Uncover it and stir a bit, occasionally, and leave the foil off for however long it takes to get to the level of dry/moist you like. (Wars are fought over the relative dryness of dressing... I know!)</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/790c7e3e80455e628958e2496917394e8c2e04b0/original/featured-player-dressing-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTQxeDM4MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="383" width="541" /></p>
<p>I've got to tell you... making dressing with homemade bread was a little crazy, but OMG was the flavor/texture amazing. And the little bit that's left will make its way into the aforementioned hash quite happily.</p>
<p><em><em><br></em></em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412842019-11-24T07:46:01-05:002022-11-20T21:31:31-05:00The Best Thanksgiving Lessons Learned!
<p> </p>
<p>Over the years, I've been blessed to work alongside and learn from some of America's foremost chefs. Whenever I do, I try to take some time afterwards to think... what did I learn?</p>
<p>So it should be with celebrating Thanksgiving. Of course, no two chefs (or families, for that matter) will approach the particulars of the feast in the same way. Even so, from a culinary perspective, I like to look back at the many Thanksgiving feasts I've shared and ask... what did I learn?</p>
<p>Here are a few tricks I've picked up that I hope prove helpful to you. I'll be posting more details on each of these this weekend, but for now, This Old Chef says...</p>
<p>ҩ Spatchcocking the turkey is THE way to go: moist meat, crisp skin, and an 11-pound bird done in 80 minutes. Truly.</p>
<p>ҩ Make your gravy days ahead (make a stock from turkey parts instead of waiting to make it from the bird in the last hectic minutes before serving). You can even pour a bit of pan drippings in (if you feel the need to make yourself rush at the last minute). This year I added some duxelles and brandy... Oh my goodness!</p>
<p>ҩ You can peel and cut your potatoes (for mashed potatoes) early in the day. Just keep them covered with cold water.</p>
<p>ҩ Make your cranberry sauce (chutney in our case) early in the week.</p>
<p>ҩ Set the table the day before.</p>
<p>ҩ Always heat your plates.</p>
<p>ҩ If your vegetable can be reheated or finished cooking later (we had succotash) (with a little bacon), get the first part of the cooking done early.</p>
<p>ҩ Our "dressing" is old-fashioned sage-bread-celery-onion. Sautéed the celery and onions 2 days before... cubed and toasted the bread 2 days before (and by the way, <em>toast</em>, don't just let it get stale, really). Mix it early in the day, get it in the pan, keep it cold... cook partially while the oven is heating... then all you have to do is finish it while the cooked turkey rests.</p>
<p>ҩ This brings us to The One Thing No One Wants to Do: The turkey, lightly tented with foil, will stay REALLY hot for at least 30-40 minutes, if not more. So. REST YOUR TURKEY! It really makes a difference.</p>
<p>Most important...</p>
<p>Enjoy whatever meal you put on the table! Enjoy your loved ones! Enjoy every day!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/f055834f20fe369b38bb26d8ed6e219b2eb1e974/original/thanksgiving-2017-final.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTgzeDQzOCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="438" width="583" /></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">And to the treasured <em>This Old Chef</em> faithful...</p>
<p>I just want to let you know how thankful I am for all of you who read... consider... and cook from the blog. It means the world to me. The world may be a bit scary at the moment, but we need always to remember that we have wonderful things to be thankful for...</p>
<p>Happy Thanksgiving!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412832019-09-24T12:21:58-04:002020-01-05T23:32:44-05:00Fried Chicken Strips with Tomatoes, Peppers, Zucchini, Yellow Squash, and Cauliflower Rice
<p> </p>
<p>He wanted chicken.</p>
<p>But we’re waist deep in the September Tomato Glut!</p>
<p>I had an idea!!!</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/64d44331d7a2b9c6defc465bc99280b5b2726ac9/original/fried-chicken-strips-1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTAweDQ2OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="468" width="500" /></p>
<p>I sautéed a minced onion...<br> I added 3 chopped medium tomatoes...<br> I added a chopped Havasu pepper, half a chopped zucchini, and half a chopped yellow squash...</p>
<p>And let all of this simmer away with a tablespoon of capers.</p>
<p>In a heavy skillet, I heated oil and shallow-fried strips of chicken breast dredged in breadcrumbs.</p>
<p>I processed some cauliflower into “rice” and sautéed it in butter.</p>
<p>Hot plate<br> “Rice”<br> Chicken<br> Tomato mixture<br> Scattering of herbs</p>
<p>OK! Home run!!!</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/10bf7a9f6209a8b3f50700f17f2c5a25567d21b7/original/fried-chicken-strips-2a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzAweDU5MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="593" width="700" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412822019-09-11T08:52:35-04:002020-01-05T23:32:44-05:00Shrimp Sale! Fried Shrimp with Romesco Sauce!
<p> </p>
<p>SHRIMP SALE! (Part 2)</p>
<p>Well, last night was the wildly successful Thai Shrimp Risotto. Since I had set myself an awfully high bar, I wanted to travel somewhere NOT in Asia or Italy for tonight's dinner.</p>
<p>I had just seen a post by the extraordinary Emily Nunn <em>(The Comfort Food Diaries)</em> extolling the virtues of Romesco... and was reminded how much I love it!</p>
<p>So, off to Spain!</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/db5c2e347aaead0dc3de50af96a86233098f2b4d/original/fried-shrimp-with-romesco-1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzAweDY4MSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="681" width="700" /></p>
<p>First, make your favorite Romesco sauce.</p>
<p>What do you mean you don’t have a favorite Romesco recipe up your sleeve?!?!?</p>
<p>OK, purists are going to go for me, but my Romesco is sort of an abstract blueprint, not set in stone. You can check almost anywhere on the internet for recipes, but here’s what I did...</p>
<p>I charred three Havasu peppers from our garden (any red pepper works) and cleaned them. Don't wash them, just wipe the skin off.</p>
<p>I chopped them, and added them to the food processor, along with 3 garlic cloves, 1/4 C toasted almonds, some parsley, a splash of sherry vinegar, half a hot pepper, some tomato paste, and salt and pepper. I processed this until fairly smooth, and then started adding EVOO to the running processor. Other recipes may add fresh tomatoes and onions and water, but I thought this was pretty wonderful... so I stopped.</p>
<p>For some reason, we didn’t want rice, but a starch seemed necessary. I made a quick batch of orzo.</p>
<p>Now to the shrimp. I surprised my crustacean-loving North Carolinian with an old favorite of his that I’d never made before... I fried the shrimp!!</p>
<p>Just a simple batter: egg, flour, salt, pepper, and a drop of milk. 350° oil... about 3 minutes of frying... drain... sprinkle with salt.</p>
<p>Hot bowl<br> Scoop of orzo<br> Racing stripe of Romesco<br> Ring o' shrimp<br> Shower of minced parsley</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/ccfc67d7a00ff51d0a65d2c6392025a63f05ede6/original/fried-shrimp-with-romesco-2a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzAweDU1MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="550" width="700" /></p>
<p>Guess what? That bar may have been high... but I cleared it!!!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412812019-09-06T06:10:30-04:002020-01-05T23:32:44-05:00Shrimp Sale! Thai Shrimp Risotto!
<p> </p>
<p>SHRIMP SALE!</p>
<p>As we have previously established, these are words that get me very excited.</p>
<p>And these babies were the right size and in beautiful shape AND wild caught. So we got a pound. That’s two dinners in a row. But my recent desire to add to the rotation was still in full swing, so...</p>
<p>Thai Shrimp Risotto!</p>
<p>First, I cleaned and de-veined all of the shrimp (making the second night easier!) and set them aside in the fridge. Then, I put 4C of chicken stock on to simmer. But I ramped up the flavor by adding the shrimp shells and three smashed lemongrass stalks from the yard. (Really, grow your own lemongrass, it's easy and beautiful!)</p>
<p>Next, I sautéed one minced onion and, when it was soft, I added about a tablespoon of grated ginger and an equal amount of garlic, and minced fresh hot dragon cayenne pepper (add as much/little as you wish).</p>
<p>When all of that was fragrant, in went approximately 1C Arborio rice, which I gently sautéed for 2 minutes. Then, in went the white wine... reduced it... and then started with the stock...</p>
<p><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/perfect_risotto_at_home_with_chicken_and_tarragon/</em></p>
<p>About 5 minutes before it was done, I swirled in 2T green curry paste... 1T Red Boat fish sauce... a pinch of brown sugar... then half of the shrimp. The shrimp (really) take only 3-4 minutes!! Turned off the heat, added a nice handful of julienned Thai basil from the garden and, instead of the traditional butter enrichment at the end, I stirred in about 1/4C coconut milk. As an extra funky fillip, we LIGHTLY dusted the tops of the plated dishes with Red Boat Salt.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5bce88ce9f12d3ac3ff064d6f435172cb2b23d7a/original/thai-shrimp-risotto-2a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6ODAweDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="800" /></p>
<p>Folks, if these past few months have taught me anything, it's this: think outside your food box!</p>
<p>This was an extraordinary mashup of Thai and Italian that paid tribute to each without getting muddled. It was really one of our favorite dinners and will be made again and again!</p>
<p>Now...</p>
<p>What to make with the other half pound of the shrimp?!?!?</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412802019-09-02T14:02:36-04:002023-12-10T12:08:57-05:00Grilled Flatbreads with Broccoli Rabe, Ricotta, and Rosemary Honey
<p> </p>
<p>OK... You'll need to bear with me.</p>
<p>I have written plays that have been performed from coast to coast.</p>
<p>I've written food articles for national publications (<em>Everyday with Rachael Ray, Great American Home Cooking,</em> etc.).</p>
<p>I've contributed content to some really fun sites online (<em>Extra Crispy, @foodandwine </em>digital, etc.).</p>
<p>I've acted with the Royal Shakespeare Company.</p>
<p>But today has me a little verklempt. The September 2019 issue of <em>Food & Wine</em> magazine has landed. And on Page 69... my first recipe for that wonderful publication!</p>
<p>One lifetime can contain many dreams.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/18bf32df51079e2f85e19b3c5a7bf2f9075a750b/original/flatbreads-recipe-in-food-wine-september-2019-resized-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDI1eDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="425" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412792019-08-11T11:26:17-04:002020-01-05T23:32:44-05:00"Greek" Shrimp with Orzo (Not Ouzo!)
<p> </p>
<p>Sale on shrimp!</p>
<p>But we were both interested in trying something a little different from our usual (and beloved) linguine with shrimp, lemon, garlic, and crunchy bread crumbs...</p>
<p><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/fresh_pasta_with_garlic_shrimp_parsley_toasted_breadcrumbs_and_lemon_zest/</em></p>
<p>The garden is in full cry! We had feta, too, so Greek seemed a way to go.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8a2da3bb4a2d3b6d7c9ad3c31d71b1198f24f2d3/original/greek-shrimp-with-orzo.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzE5eDQ4MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="480" width="719" /></p>
<p>I cleaned and de-veined the shrimp, thin-sliced 4 large garlic cloves, and then combined the shrimp, garlic, EVOO, salt, and red pepper flakes. I let them marinate together in the fridge for about an hour.</p>
<p>I chopped some Kalamata olives, and feta, and parsley, and set them aside.</p>
<p>I sautéed the shrimp gently, adding a bit of dried... yes, dried... oregano. There are times when that old familiar flavor is exactly what I’m looking for!</p>
<p>And now...</p>
<p>Here I go again...</p>
<p>Never. Overcook. Shrimp!!!</p>
<p>I took the shrimp off the heat. While doing all of this I cooked and drained some orzo. I mixed the orzo, the shrimp mixture, the feta, and the parsley.</p>
<p>This was terrific! And it was and wasn’t...</p>
<p>1) A salad.<br> 2) A pasta salad.</p>
<p>It was its own thing... Very Greek-tasting. A full meal, but light. A salad, but more substantial.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/db3c481904687df42b29a7131767b63b623173ec/original/greek-shrimp-with-orzo-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzE5eDQ4MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="480" width="719" /></p>
<p>All in all, a really good summer meal.</p>
<p>PS. Don’t. Overcook. Shrimp!!!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412772019-07-24T05:38:42-04:002020-01-05T23:32:44-05:00Cool 'n' Tasty Chicken Tonnato
<p> </p>
<p>Grotesque weather. Upper 90s with humidity almost as high. No real relief at night.</p>
<p>But it was the weekend and I NEEDED TO COOK. So...</p>
<p>I had some thawed chicken breast that needed to be used.</p>
<p>I had a can of really good tuna.</p>
<p>And my attendance at a press event last week allowed me to pass by the store where I buy HUGE jars of salted capers for nothing.</p>
<p>So the chicken version of <em>Vitello tonnato</em> seemed the cool way to go!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/aeb18642699478df5566cc7a5927d188497a45d5/original/chicken-tonnato-1a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDYweDQ3MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="470" width="460" /></p>
<p>In a saucepan big enough to hold the two pieces of chicken breast I placed the chicken, some peppercorns, salt, chopped scallions, and enough water/stock/ wine to cover. Heat on medium low. When the breasts reached 160° or so, I turned off the heat and let them cool in the broth.</p>
<p>While this cooled, I made the sauce. Here's how...</p>
<p>In the processor, blend 1 can of good (something surpassing <em>Chicken of the Sea</em> or <em>Bumblebee</em>) tuna in oil (use the oil), about 1/2 C mayo (it was waaaay too hot to make my own), some salt and pepper, lemon zest and juice... blend until smooth, taste, adjust, taste, and refrigerate.</p>
<p>Finally, slice the cooked breast as thin as you can... Plate with undressed greens (these were merlot lettuce leaves from our garden)... Top with the sauce. Scatter tarragon and rinsed, salt-packed capers.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8f190b04ef8b10e2dc452389ed1af8cc529a1fd8/original/chicken-tonnato-3a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjIweDUzMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="530" width="620" /></p>
<p>I know, I know, cold poached chicken (60’s diet food) with tuna mayo... but trust me! This is a great variation on a classic Italian summertime dish. You’ll have a hard time figuring out how you’ve lived this long without.</p>
<p>And the added bonus: a pan of barely simmering water does not heat up the kitchen OR the cook.</p>
<p>And vary the herbs! Vary the ingredients in the poaching liquid! Vary the meat!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412762019-07-13T04:43:54-04:002020-01-05T23:32:43-05:00'Tis The Season for Perfect Little Blueberry Pies!
<p style="color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><em><br></em></p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><em> </em></p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><em>One of my all-time favorite recipes! Make these any time, but especially while blueberries are in season!</em></p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">I have long been inordinately proud of my pies. And yes, I know it goeth before a fall. But I learned from the master, Maureen Kavanagh McCann... my mother. We even had a friendly rivalry concerning pie crust!</p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">When it's just the two of us for dinner, a whole pie is a bit much. But Fairway had a HUGE sale on blueberries, sooooooo...</p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">I looked around the kitchen and found two ramekins that were deeper and a bit wider than my regular ramekins, so I decided that I would make two individual blueberry pies.</p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Now, never having made individual pies like this before... you can see I overfilled. But hey, blueberry syrup running down the sides makes it look "rustic," right?</p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/255afc98a358be876680bef6c1f662ff40505422/original/blackberry-pie-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTQ4eDQ1MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="452" style="border-image-outset: 0; border-image-repeat: stretch; border-image-slice: 100%; border-image-source: none; border-image-width: 1; border: 0px none currentColor;" width="548" /></p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">My dough couldn't be simpler: 2C AP flour, a pinch of salt, 2/3 C lard <em>(yes, you heard me), </em>2T unsalted butter, and 4T ice water. It's the basic recipe from <em>The Joy of Cooking</em> that I've used forever.</p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">And the filling was 1 pint blueberries, 1/3 C sugar, a dash of cinnamon, 2t tapioca, and a pinch of salt.</p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">I fitted the dough in the ramekins, divided the filling, topped each pie with dabs of butter, put on the top crusts, sprinkled the tops with sugar... baked them on a cookie sheet at 450° for 10 minutes... and then 350° for about 35 minutes...</p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">OMG I've missed my pies!!!</p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: right; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><em>Originally posted on July 13, 2014</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412742019-06-10T12:49:42-04:002020-01-05T23:32:43-05:00Justin Chapple's Caviar Carbonara
<p> </p>
<p>I don’t often publish other people’s recipes. This is so perfect I have to. It’s from my dear friend and colleague Justin Chapple.</p>
<p>If the gods happen to favor you with some caviar... some, but not enough for a caviar orgy for two...</p>
<p>Make this... please!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/e15506ce0a5d3b0f99862d4b034db28858c31e9e/original/caviar-carbonara-2a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTUweDUwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="500" width="550" /></p>
<p>It is amazing. And if you make your own pasta, so much the better. My only deviation from Justin’s recipe is that I make my eggless pasta...</p>
<p><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/fresh_pasta_without_eggs/</em></p>
<p>...which I find more delicate and gossamer (yes, I said gossamer) than egg pasta! You can get Justin’s recipe by going to this link...</p>
<p><em>https://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/caviar-carbonara</em></p>
<p>This is Wild Valentine's Rich New Year’s Eve Splurge Anniversary food. You must do it at least once!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/e7e034e5fe897e4f1b9eef58fc9d813c23daf5ce/original/caviar-carbonara-1a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjUweDQzMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="430" width="650" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412702019-04-08T07:45:27-04:002020-01-21T19:18:24-05:00Springtime Risotto
<p> </p>
<p>I had a number of “bits” from the test kitchen.</p>
<p>Half an onion, half a zucchini, a few multicolored baby peppers.</p>
<p>And a big bag o' dill... Thanks, Renae!</p>
<p>And I am so damned ready for spring that a primavera-y risotto seemed just the ticket...</p>
<p><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/a_very_very_spring_risotto_with_asparagus_peas_and_chives_with_sweet_lime_juice/</em></p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/38c94f3050d32c8f3ff32534ffc4881e1f5b600d/original/springtime-risotto-a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTk2eDU5NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="596" width="596" /></p>
<p>I minced and sautéed the onions (in EVOO <em>and</em> BUTTER) added some Arborio... sautéed that for a bit... poured in the white wine... simmered and stirred relentlessly, adding hot chicken stock as needed. And here’s a good place for a little salt and pepper. You can always add a bit more later.</p>
<p>When it all appeared to me to be about 60% there, I added the minced baby peppers and diced zucchini, and a big handful of (still) frozen peas.</p>
<p>Once everybody tasted done, I cut the fire, tossed in a knob of butter, whipped the risotto until the butter melted, added Parmigiano, and then... the <span style="text-align:left; color:#292929; text-transform:none; text-indent:0px; letter-spacing:normal; font-style:normal; font-variant:normal; font-weight:700; text-decoration:none; word-spacing:0px; display:inline !important; white-space:normal; orphans:2; float:none; -webkit-text-stroke-width:0px; background-color:#ffffff"><em>pièce de résistance... </em></span>about 1/3 C chopped dill. </p>
<p>OK, it may still feel like winter in Yonkers, but this absolutely delicious veg risotto made spring seem a lot closer. And dill is a great surprise ingredient!</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/95a95944e59449051ee3cfcba98327fdad5e3ed4/original/springtime-risotto-1a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzgxeDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="781" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412662019-03-03T13:20:06-05:002020-01-05T23:32:41-05:00Chicken 'n' Beans with Assorted Chiles and Avocado
<p> </p>
<p>Seriously, not the best name, I realize... but boy, was it good!</p>
<p>I had thawed some chicken breasts for dinner a few days before, and there was just about 1 1/3 left that needed to be used.</p>
<p><em>Yes, you read that correctly. When we have chicken breast for dinner, I take 1 of the 2 breasts and cut it into 2 sections. The rounded end is about 2/3 of the breast, and the remaining, pointed, end is about 1/3. Then I take the rounded end and split it in half. That's two generous servings of chicken for two people at one meal. (The pointed end is generally reserved for another meal.)</em></p>
<p>I knew that I also had cilantro and canned black beans and some powdered chiles. You see where I’m going?</p>
<p>I sautéed a minced onion and some minced garlic in EVOO... just until soft, no color. In went three 15 oz. cans of black beans, rinsed and drained. Then I sprinkled this mixture with about 3t each of pasilla negro and aji amarillo chile powders and a little bit of dried oregano, salt, and pepper. I let this just simmer away for about 5 minutes. Then I added about 1C chicken stock, and a few pinches of ground roasted cumin seeds.</p>
<p>While it simmered, I diced an avocado... warmed some rice... warmed some bowls... and chopped a big handful of cilantro.</p>
<p>I cut the chicken breasts into large chunks, put them into the simmering bean mixture, and let the chicken poach GENTLY until just done. Added the cilantro. Put hot rice in hot bowls. Ladled the chicken mixture in. Topped with the diced avocado.</p>
<p>And Wow.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/6d9ba9305dce1f588053149855abdc52679e409e/original/chicken-n-beans-1.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTcweDQ5MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="490" width="570" /></p>
<p>This was clean, clean chili... Not muddled or tomato-y, not drowned in cheese or sour cream (both of which I adore). It was revelatory: A Chili for Company! (Even if it was just the two of us.)</p>
<p>And, start to service... 25-30 minutes... After work! This really was a new kind of chili dish and we loved it!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412642019-02-11T12:52:05-05:002020-01-05T23:32:41-05:00Won't You Be My Valentines?
<p style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-color: transparent; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position-x: 0%; background-position-y: 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 12px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 12px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><br style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-color: transparent; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position-x: 0%; background-position-y: 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; margin: 0px;"></p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-color: transparent; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position-x: 0%; background-position-y: 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 12px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 12px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Valentine's Day... Can't live with it, can't live without it!</p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-color: transparent; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position-x: 0%; background-position-y: 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 12px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 12px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">I'm a big believer in staying home with, and cooking for, the one you love.</p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-color: transparent; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position-x: 0%; background-position-y: 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 12px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 12px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">This year, I hope you'll check out the delectable recipes I created for Rachael Ray's <em>Every Day..</em>.</p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="background-color: transparent; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/39e090eef422a333cfdf24699cfe9ecf7d50a828/original/valentine-s-issue-every-day-with-rachael-ray-cover2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDYyeDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" style="border-image-outset: 0; border-image-repeat: stretch; border-image-slice: 100%; border-image-source: none; border-image-width: 1; border: 0px none #000000;" width="462" /></p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-color: transparent; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position-x: 0%; background-position-y: 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 12px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 12px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Just click on the <em>Articles</em> tab on the left side of this page, where you'll find a link to the article and all the recipes...</p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="background-color: transparent; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/74ad2d915512dbcae19b5fd56dfb7b93f23f4f1b/original/valentine-s-issue-every-day-with-rachael-ray-page-1a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDYyeDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" style="border-image-outset: 0; border-image-repeat: stretch; border-image-slice: 100%; border-image-source: none; border-image-width: 1; border: 0px none #000000;" width="462" /></p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-color: transparent; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position-x: 0%; background-position-y: 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 12px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 12px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">I love these recipes, but please don't blame me for the names given to them...</p>
<p><span style="display:inline !important; float:none; background-color:#ffffff; color:#000000"> </span></p>
<p style="background-attachment: scroll; background-clip: border-box; background-color: transparent; background-image: none; background-origin: padding-box; background-position-x: 0%; background-position-y: 0%; background-repeat: repeat; background-size: auto; color: #000000; font-family: Verdana,&quot; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 12px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 12px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">And Happy Valentine's Day!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412622019-01-09T04:50:48-05:002020-01-21T19:18:19-05:00Bitter Greens Frittata
<p>I had all these gorgeous bitter greens from a shoot... frisée, endive, arugula. We’d used some of them for a delicious salad, but more remained.</p>
<p>So...</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/1053e17a4d092a321b7d2149b6efcba118e2a6a6/original/bitter-greens-frittata-1a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjAweDQ1MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="450" width="600" /></p>
<p>I minced an onion and started to sauté it in EVOO. Then I added a yellow summer squash I had in the fridge (halved, quartered, and chopped). After this combo sizzled away for a few minutes, I added the chopped greens... about 2 C mixed more or less... and cooked them until they got very liquid-y, then kept going until they dried out a bit. I took this off the heat and put it on a large plate to cool.</p>
<p>Next I added salt and pepper, and when it was all fairly cool, I added about 1/3 C grated cheese “ends” that I had in the fridge from the weekend. These happened to be cheddar and Gruyère, but any cheeses that you like would be fine.</p>
<p>All of this mixture went into a nonstick skillet (big enough that the mixture wasn’t layered too thickly... with enough room to add eggs!) and, speaking of eggs, I beat six large eggs and poured them on top of the greens mixture... stirred the whole thing, greens and all... and cooked it on fairly low heat until the bottom just started to set and the center, while still wet, was not completely liquid. I grated some Parmigiano over the top and put it under the broiler.</p>
<p>This is one of those times you may not walk away! Browned cheese is great, browned eggs are not.</p>
<p>Keep taking it out, shaking it gently, and the minute it’s all pretty firm, remove it from the oven. You may now walk away for at least five minutes.</p>
<p>Really. It’ll still be warm, but it will have had a chance to set.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/9e2bf49a29621b1949ae794fb5b6c9421a5055fa/original/bitter-greens-frittata-2a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjAweDQ1MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="450" width="600" /></p>
<p>Slice, serve, and thank me! This is like a crustless quiche without the heavy cream but, believe me, you won’t miss the crust or the cream. And you all know how much I love me some cream!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412582018-12-13T05:08:44-05:002020-01-21T19:18:17-05:00Time for Christmas Cookies! Start with Snowballs!
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1">Forgive me.</p>
<p class="p1">The switch from "after Thanksgiving" foods to Christmas prep can induce whiplash...</p>
<p class="p1">And now it's almost mid-December!</p>
<p class="p1">So let's get going, people... Over the next few days, we'll be re-posting our greatest Christmas cookie hits.</p>
<p class="p1">You're welcome!</p>
<p class="p1">(And please let me know how yours turn out!)</p>
<p>First: Snowballs! My Mother's Own...</p>
<p>I grew up in Michigan and upstate New York (and I really mean "upstate..." as in Canadian border!! Not what we refer to now as "Upstate Manhattan..."), and Toronto...</p>
<p>So Christmas means snow. And I'm one of those people who LOVES SNOW... I'll shovel, I'll scrape, I'll do whatever it takes as long as I have snow.</p>
<p>But I realize that in many, many parts of the States... usually including Yonkers... snow and Christmas are now mutually exclusive. So other than snow... there are a few things guaranteed to... get me in the mood...</p>
<p>And the greatest of these is/are... COOKIES!</p>
<p>Mother was a great Christmas cookie maker. And I will now reveal to the world her recipe for snowballs. Yes, I know... every culture has a version of nutty buttery cookies rolled in powdered sugar... I just happen to think these are the best...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3d7a13d134f562e6c1bd35dcf8a8ac0268aba6a4/original/snowball-peak-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzUweDQ2MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="460" width="350" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Snowballs</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Yield: 5-6 Dozen</strong></p>
<p>Cream:</p>
<p>1 C Unsalted butter</p>
<p>4 T 10X sugar</p>
<p>2 C AP flour</p>
<p>1 C Chopped pecans</p>
<p>2 t Pure vanilla</p>
<p>1 t Water</p>
<p>Roll into balls. Chill or freeze. Bake at 400° for 10 minutes.</p>
<p>When thoroughly cooled, roll carefully in 10X.</p>
<p>For an equally delicious variation... use <em>homemade unsalted cultured butter</em> and substitute <em>walnuts</em> for the pecans! You will love these, too!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412572018-11-23T07:46:50-05:002020-01-05T23:32:40-05:00The Remains of the Day: Yes, It's Time Again for Turkey Mole Enchiladas! (Turkey & Chocolate! Olé!)
<p> </p>
<p><em>This experiment from last Thanksgiving will definitely be making a repeat appearance on our table this year! It's staggeringly good, if I do say so myself...)</em></p>
<p>As always, this year I'm determined to come up with some new ways to use the Remains of the (Thanksgiving) Day. Not that I don’t love the annual progression of favorites!!</p>
<p>I spied a bag of flour tortillas in the fridge (from the test kitchen, of course, but easily found these days in your neighborhood market). This started me thinking, and, as usual, whilst thinking, I began sautéing a minced onion and a ton of minced garlic...</p>
<p>While that sautéed, I looked around the kitchen and found some cooked rice (just a small amount), a can of black beans and, as I seemed to be heading in a direction, I sought out chili powder, ground cumin, smoked salt, red pepper flakes, and some turkey.</p>
<p>Oh, and a bit of cocoa powder.</p>
<p><em>(In future, I’d probably use chocolate instead of the cocoa, which seemed a bit bitter to me... But Charlie absolutely loved it... So what do I know?)</em></p>
<p>I added the rice, the drained and rinsed black beans, the chili powder, cumin, salt, red pepper, black pepper, and cocoa to the onions and garlic. Then a splash of white wine... then a splash of chicken stock... and, for good measure, a splash of turkey stock...</p>
<p>Next, I added the remains of the Thanksgiving succotash, about 1/2 C of corn and lima beans and bacon. This was tasting <em>GOOD</em>. But it was a little thin, and I didn’t want to reduce it too much because the flavors were already pretty potent.</p>
<p>AHA!</p>
<p>I remembered that I’d made some very plain <span class="s1">velouté</span> with which to dilute the gravy on Thanksgiving (I’d gone a bit overboard on the duxelles, so it tasted a bit too mushroomy). I started adding the <span class="s1">velouté</span> by the tablespoon... et voilà! After about three tablespoons, it was creamy, viscous, and some of the sharp edges had been smoothed... not too much, just enough...</p>
<p>A pinch more plain (not smoked) salt, then I started stuffing the tortillas (which I’d barely softened in the microwave). I put a layer of the sauce over the bottom of a glass baking dish, placed the filled tortillas on top, added a bit of sauce over the tortillas... grated some sharp cheddar on top... and placed the dish in a 350 oven until it all started to bubble. Switched to broil for just a minute! Scooped out these beauties onto hot plates, sprinkled the top with minced cilantro and...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a234a6b15f54e7887e9c9ec8bb63e0cce7a06ca4/original/turkey-mole-enchiladas-2-a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Njk3eDUyMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="523" width="697" /></p>
<p>Folks, this was immediately in the top five... maybe even the top three!</p>
<p>Any changes? As I said, perhaps chocolate instead of cocoa. Maybe some sour cream. All I know is, it was So Good we're both still talking about it days later. Delicious. And really pretty on the plate...</p>
<p><em>Originally posted on November 26, 2017</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412562018-11-21T10:07:55-05:002020-01-05T23:32:40-05:00The Remains of the Day: Silky & Elegant Turkey Risottos
<p> </p>
<p><em>There are very few culinary creations that can boast the rich flavor and luscious mouthfeel of risotto. And that fabulous Thanksgiving turkey will provide you with the meat, and the stock, to make some of the best risotto you've ever spooned and swooned over! Trust me!</em></p>
<p><em><br></em></p>
<p><span style="color:#003300"><strong><em><span style="text-decoration:underline">Turkey & Sage Risotto</span></em></strong></span></p>
<p>I love risotto. Period.</p>
<p>From my first taste YEARS ago, right up until today. But... I don't like the idea of risotto as a dumping ground. If you want to add things... there's a method. Therefore...</p>
<p>I had great turkey stock... I had beautifully cooked turkey breast... I had chopped onions... So...</p>
<p>I started as I would any risotto: I sautéed the onions in EVOO... added the Arborio rice and some chopped sage... added some white wine... and then began the gradual additions of hot turkey stock (augmented with a bit of hot water because the stock was VERY strong), and, at the last moment, I added diced turkey... then a large (2 T) piece of unsalted butter... turned off the heat and added Grana Padano.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/996b03568f822a68d40cbd89bab208cac5083658/original/turkey-risotto-with-sage-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTc2eDUzMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="533" width="576" /></p>
<p>This is comfort food to the Nth degree... and it in no way tasted like...</p>
<p>The dreaded... L WORD!!!</p>
<p><em>Originally posted on November 28, 2012</em></p>
<p><em><br></em></p>
<p><strong><span style="color:#003300"><span style="text-decoration:underline"><em>Turkey, Duxelles and Sage Risotto with White Truffle Oil</em></span></span></strong></p>
<p>Turkey Risotto... always one of my favorite dishes...</p>
<p>Though I am NOT a believer in the "dump anything in" school of risotto making!</p>
<p>Having said that, the idea of a turkey risotto with some sage and duxelles sounded pretty good, especially since I had some wonderful turkey stock on hand. </p>
<p>The duxelles should go in early, after the second or third addition of simmering stock. The sage can go in early as well... It's a hardy, hearty herb and it can withstand long cooking. But I have a little trick: I add some chopped sage early, and reserve some to toss in during the last few minutes. Try it... you'll see.</p>
<p>The turkey should go in only long enough to reheat... It is sooooo cooked already.</p>
<p>And because I have wonderful friends who give me amazing gifts, I finished this risotto off with a very, very tiny drizzle of white truffle oil. This is one case where less is indeed more.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/86cb47f237e343cae56cf07cad4f2da680575ddf/original/turkey-duxelles-risotto-with-white-truffle-oil-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDU0eDQxNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="414" width="454" /></p>
<p>Did it work? You bet! When the ingredients are good, and gently handled, the offerings after Thanksgiving can be "better than the original"!!!</p>
<p><em>Originally posted on December 7, 2013</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="color:#003300"><strong><em>Check out these links for refresher courses on making perfect risotto...</em></strong></span></p>
<p><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/perfect_risotto_at_home_with_chicken_and_tarragon/" data-imported="1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/perfect_risotto_at_home_with_chicken_and_tarragon/</em></a></p>
<p><em><span style="color:#003300"><strong>And duxelles</strong></span>... <span style="color:#0000ff"><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/duxelles_shroomapalooza_3/" data-imported="1">http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/duxelles_shroomapalooza_3/</a></span></em></p>
<p><em><br></em></p>
<p><em><br></em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412552018-11-21T08:47:54-05:002020-01-05T23:32:40-05:00The Remains of the Day: Love That Turkey Hash!
<p style="text-align: left;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left;">THE use... THE comfort food... using the remains of the turkey... probably my personal fave... because when all is said and done, I'm a Midwesterner who's Irish on all sides (and I do mean ALL sides).</p>
<p>Hash.</p>
<p>So this version was sautéed cubes of potato, sautéed onions and celery, the last of the white meat, cubed, some dried sage from the garden, LOTS of pepper, a bit of smoked salt, and the last few spoonsful of gravy. Topped it with some sour cream and a scattering of chopped scallions.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/9e51c75986cdeff6a5a94fb812c56603f8780f63/original/turkey-hash-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTA0eDQxNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="416" width="504" /></p>
<p>Delicious. And a fitting way to say goodbye to the Thanksgiving feast... here shown in all its glory.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/ea66a653c243fd1af6d97af4a4019c1229899db2/original/thanksgiving-dinner-2012-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjIweDQzNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="435" width="620" /></p>
<p>And now it's full steam ahead into DECEMBER!!!</p>
<p><em>Originally posted on December 14, 2012</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412542018-11-20T05:11:42-05:002020-01-05T23:32:40-05:00The Remains of the Day: Savory Holiday Crêpes!
<p> </p>
<p><em>These two recipes are De-lightful to make, De-licious to eat, and De-lovely to serve... with your favorite turkey or ham or chicken!</em></p>
<p><span style="color:#003300"><span style="text-decoration:underline"><strong>Time Machine: Chicken Crêpes</strong></span></span></p>
<p>I can't really explain it...</p>
<p>OK... I could say that some of the roast chicken <span style="color:#003300"><em>[or, you know, TURKEY or HAM!]</em></span> was sitting in the fridge waiting to be... repurposed.</p>
<p>I could say that it was the week before Christmas and I wanted to cook everything I could think of that is the antithesis of <em>new/fast/low-fat/fusion</em>, etc.</p>
<p>I could say that, knowing we'll be working in L.A. on Christmas day, I felt the need to pamper us now... in preparation.</p>
<p>Whatever the reason, I stepped into a time machine yesterday. I made a batch of crêpes... and yes, it's true, the first one never works!</p>
<p>For a basic crêpe recipe, one need look no further than Julia... No surprise there...</p>
<p>Combine 1 C AP flour, 2/3 C water, 2/3 C milk, 3 eggs, a pinch of salt, and 3 T melted butter. A blender works well, but whisking is fine. Let it sit for at least an hour. Heat a bit of butter in a non-stick pan. Pour in 1/4 cup batter, swirl it around the pan, pour any excess back into the batter... cook for about 30 seconds... flip it over... cook a few seconds... and remove to a plate.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4fed189365b89baa634805161063d0116b7657d0/original/chicken-crepes-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mjc1eDMzNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="336" width="275" /><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/031866e41e92a9935aa30edb224c0c1c19e8fe9d/original/chicken-crepes-3-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjY4eDMzNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="335" width="268" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"> <img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8925cc3018009512c30ad30f41318b66dffd6353/original/chicken-crepes-4-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjcyeDI3OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="279" width="272" /></p>
<p>Then I made a velouté... essentially a béchamel using my roast chicken stock in place of most of the milk. Then I sautéed some finely minced onions in - wait for it - schmaltz... which I had scraped off of the roast chicken stock.</p>
<p>I deglazed with a shot of Sherry and added some frozen (no need to thaw) tiny peas. These were combined with about three-quarters of the velouté, to which I added a generous helping of cubed roast chicken and a few scrapings of nutmeg, along with some salt and pepper.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/870ae39e0818b102595664a624ff9321b19217c9/original/chicken-crepes-5-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzcweDIzMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="233" width="370" /></p>
<p>I rolled up crêpes with about 2 tablespoons of the filling, put them snugly in a buttered baking dish, topped with a bit of the remaining velouté and a dusting of microplaned Parmesan, then off they went to spend 15 to 20 minutes in a 350° oven.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/de87a8960deca4d6fc2d88e4ec584c4a0956a692/original/chicken-crepes-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mzg5eDI5NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="294" width="389" /></p>
<p>All I can say is, do this right, and you bypass <em>The Magic Pan</em> and head straight for Paris... ooo la la!!!</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b20788b33bafafa524d4e0024cc125fb26576733/original/chicken-crepes-6-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTY3eDM3OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="378" width="567" /></p>
<p><em><strong><span style="color:#008000">(OK, this was originally posted on December 24, 2012, and though these tasted great, I hadn't quite mastered the technique or the photography. Check out the recipe below to see my progress! It's a terrific choice for those of you who prefer ham over turkey at Thanksgiving...)</span></strong><br></em></p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="color:#003300"><span style="text-decoration:underline"><strong>Ham 'n' Cheese Crêpes with Peas 'n' Dijon</strong></span></span></p>
<p>So I froze the hambone, knowing full well that there was still plenty of recoverable meat...</p>
<p>And today I decided to recover it...</p>
<p>I thawed the bone, stripped the remaining meat, and cut it into very small dice. Then I made a very basic velouté with butter, flour, and chicken stock. Off the heat I added a tablespoon of Dijon, a cup of shredded cheddar, a cup of frozen peas that I'd thawed in hot tap water, and the ham. And...</p>
<p>OMG... I could eat this mixture by the spoonful!!!</p>
<p>But I won't, because I also made a batch of basic savory crêpes. <em>[See above.]</em><br></p>
<p>I rolled each crêpe around a heaping tablespoon of the filling, then placed them all in a buttered baking dish. I had reserved about 1/2 cup of the velouté (without the ham and peas), and thinned it with another 1/3 cup of the stock.</p>
<p>I poured it over the crêpes, topped it with a bit of Parmesan, put it under the broiler for a few minutes until browned and bubbling, then turned off the broiler, turned the oven to 350°, and heated it all for about 15 minutes. I served it with a shower of chives and chive blossoms.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4f4371f28f962835d2a13df246c6a70af65f0ebe/original/ham-n-cheese-crepes-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6ODAweDU5OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="598" width="800" /></p>
<p>This is the Easter that keeps on giving! These crêpes were incredible...</p>
<p>And of course, this rich, flavorful ham now costs about $.50 a serving... and I still haven't made soup!!!</p>
<p><br></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412532018-11-20T04:17:06-05:002020-01-05T23:32:40-05:00The Remains of the Day: Turkey Herder Pie!
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1"><em>If it makes you feel better, you can call it "Shepherd's Pie with Turkey," but either way, my after-Thanksgiving take on this comfort food favorite will have you gobbling it down!</em></p>
<p class="p1">So... The Remains were gloriously arrayed before me...</p>
<p class="p1">I took gravy, peas, gingered root vegetables (parsnips, turnips, carrots), dressing, balsamic pearl onions, and some diced turkey, mixed it all together, tasted it, salted and peppered it...</p>
<p class="p1">Placed it all in an ungreased baking dish, added some chopped cooked bacon, topped it with mashed potatoes (mixed with an egg )...</p>
<p class="p1">And baked it at 350 for about 30 minutes.</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/333a8134c0a708cd5759e4ef71251bf94e75ac79/original/turkey-herder-pie-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTYweDQ2MSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="461" width="560" /></p>
<p class="p1">Totally new for me! This really works. And it's as satisfying as the Thanksgiving meal itself... But new!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/9acecfb2419a7c0f8eb79222d710eb286f74e7fb/original/turkey-herder-pie-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTYzeDQ2OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="469" width="563" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412522018-11-19T06:00:00-05:002021-11-26T15:44:46-05:00Whatever Shall We Do with The Remains?!? (Turkey Sandwiches with Crunchy Cheesy Potatoes)<p> </p>
<p>No one finishes the Thanksgiving meal. There are always containers of... remaining food.</p>
<p>What to do? Dump everything in a pot and call it soup? YUCK.</p>
<p>Instead of thinking of <em>The L Word</em> as some "used" food you need to get rid of... I think of "them" as if I have a <em>sous chef</em> who's already started preparing things for me to use!</p>
<p>Meats and vegetables can go into sauces, stuffings, "cakes," stews to top pastas or polenta...</p>
<p>Or mashed potatoes can top Shepherd's Pie or thicken soups... </p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/333a8134c0a708cd5759e4ef71251bf94e75ac79/original/turkey-herder-pie-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzgzeDMxNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="315" width="383" /></p>
<p>A salad can be added to cooked greens. A piece of cooked salmon is the base for a great salmon salad... a salmon cake... or hash. And though hash has a reputation as a dumping ground for "remains," with a little care it can be better than the original dish!</p>
<p>If you have a little bit of sauce left from a meat dish, add it to some day-old rice for a totally new side. All it takes is a little imagination, and these "pre-prepared" treasures are just advanced <em>mise en place!</em></p>
<p>So... I'm starting a campaign to remove the word "leftovers" from the language... Too Much Baggage.</p>
<p>From now on it's "THE L WORD," (with apologies to my dear friends in the Lesbian community)...</p>
<p>...Or <strong><em>The Remains of the Day!</em></strong></p>
<p>First among equals, of course, would be turkey sandwiches, and they are undoubtedly one of America's great contributions to world cuisine...</p>
<p>So. I had an extra loaf of the homemade bread that I'd made to turn into dressing...</p>
<p><a contents="The Very Best Dressing Stuffing Dressing Ever and Made with My Homemade Bread, Of Course" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/the-very-best-dressing-stuffing-dressing-ever-and-made-with-my-homemade-bread-of-course" target="_blank">The Very Best Dressing Stuffing Dressing Ever and Made with My Homemade Bread, Of Course</a></p>
<p>I had arugula... I had mayonnaise... and plenty of white meat from the Thanksgiving turkey.</p>
<p>Perfect.</p>
<p>But one must have potato chips! And I had no interest in a trip to the store. So...</p>
<p>Mashed potato croquettes!!!</p>
<p>I sautéed a bit of scallion, added it to mashed potatoes, tossed in some chives, a bit of flour, a teaspoon of baking powder, an egg, some Parmesan, salt and pepper... Then I rolled balls of the mixture in flour, then egg, then fresh breadcrumbs (made from some day-old baguette), and fried them in EVOO until puffed and golden brown...</p>
<p>They were served alongside these perfect sandwiches with a dollop of chive sour cream...</p>
<p>Who needs potato chips?!?!?</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b09f9e0260057a8bacad4ed54686cbd82ba0b219/original/turkey-and-arugula-sandwich-on-homemade-wheat-bread-and-potato-croquettes-with-chive-sour-cream-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTU5eDQyMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="423" width="559" /></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412512018-11-18T20:00:00-05:002023-11-14T21:28:17-05:00Take The Spatchcock Express!<p> </p><p><i>Here's a great memory of my very first time roasting a spatchcocked turkey, and my case for spatchcocking <u>your</u> Thanksgiving turkey... Norman Rockwell was a painter, not a cook!</i></p><p>I know it looks like road kill but...</p><p>It's happened... I've drunk the Kool-Aid...</p><p>I will quite probably never cook a turkey any other way.</p><p>Yesterday <i>[Thanksgiving morning!]</i>, I spatchcocked the Thanksgiving turkey!</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b854394d396ae006f20f040cefacc346a94b4dd8/original/spatchcocked-turkey-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mzc4eDI0OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="248" width="378" /></p><p>All that actually means is...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/2e5f5d0cb672c69f8a2e2e59c31a1cd7c849f0a1/original/turkey-s-backbone-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTA0eDM4NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="386" width="504" /></p><p>I cut out the backbone, then made a little slit on the membrane covering the keel bone, flipped the bird over, pushed down until I heard a fairly loud snap... and then roasted it on a cookie-cooling-type rack set in a sheet pan at 450 for 85-90 minutes.</p><p>And that, as they say, was that.</p><p>Crisp mahogany skin, juicy dark AND white meat... with no basting, no flipping, no nuthin'.</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3d9af4e43ba1e74ba0b893fb804d0bcd79000149/original/out-of-the-oven-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTY3eDQwNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="405" width="567" /></p><p>Does it look like Norman Rockwell? Absolutely not. It looks a little more like Norman Rockwell ran it over with his car... but I've never been a fan of carving the bird in the dining room anyway.</p><p>We had mashed potatoes, peas, cranberry chutney, sage dressing using my homemade bread (seriously... it's as big a revelation as fresh sage), and quite possibly my finest gravy to date (partly because the base was my homemade chicken stock simmered with the neck, backbone, and giblets... except the liver).</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/7f9679d933ea38e129933d5593da44ac34b243af/original/thanksgiving-42-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjEyeDQ5NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="494" width="612" /></p><p>A wonderful evening by the fire... a 12-pound turkey cooked in 90 minutes... How lucky can you get!</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3f14f8cfc5f1f2580e48e0cf9a7e693a96eacc53/original/thanksgiving-33-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTk4eDgwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="800" width="598" /></p><p> <i>Originally posted on November 29, 2014</i></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412502018-11-17T01:56:51-05:002020-01-05T23:32:39-05:00The Very Best Dressing/Stuffing/Dressing Ever (Made With My Homemade Bread, Of Course!)
<p> </p>
<p><em>I'm proud to say that this is one of those recipes that's among This Old Chef's greatest hits! Your family will love it, I promise!</em></p>
<p>Dressing... Yes, I'm from Michigan and we called it "dressing" whether on the inside or the outside of the bird!</p>
<p>I went a little crazy this year, but after 8 months away from my kitchen, I think I was due. Instead of buying some baguettes and drying them out...</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c60a404f5d9baae9da1ce10c16d2f988246eb834/original/great-balls-o-dough-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjI3eDE5NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="195" width="227" /><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/884d1838746db7c1074d71f98d6c401a650b4756/original/loaves-in-the-pan-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MTg5eDE5NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="196" width="189" /></p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4e2b1e1e323383abb0791618213861c846dc446e/original/loaves-out-of-the-pan-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjE4eDIyOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="229" width="218" /><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5b1f84d48b61e22b921678a8589c94601dd81343/original/perfect-slices-of-bread-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjE5eDIyOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="229" width="219" /></p>
<p>... I made a few loaves of my hearty white bread, cubed about 2/3 of a loaf, dried it in the oven, let it sit out overnight, and then buzzed it in the food processor until it was very irregularly chopped.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/20cffb77a9848d4b2b59125bce8a05fb97602481/original/dressing-cubed-homemade-bread-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzkxeDI4NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="285" width="391" /></p>
<p><em>Sidebar: Since I first posted this recipe, I've come to prefer toasting the cubes of bread in the oven to get the most flavor and a bit more crispness from that lovely bread. Also, depending on my culinary mood, I vary the proportion of crispy cubes to breadcrumbs to get the texture I like. You probably know what your family likes best!</em></p>
<p>I realize most of you aren't going to MAKE bread just for dressing... but I love bread baking... and remember: you can reward your efforts with a slice of bread from the oven and a slather of good butter! (No one needs to know...)</p>
<p><em>Sidebar: Yes, I will give you my recipe for bread some day (which is basically 1 cup of whole wheat flour and 7 cups of all-purpose flour) but, in the meantime, think about how the flavors of your favorite baguette or boule or sourdough from the local bakery might excite your Thanksgiving dressing! You don't need Pepperidge Farm to provide you with their crumbs!</em></p>
<p>So...</p>
<p>I added the crumbs to masses of chopped onions, celery, and fresh sage that I had sautéed in butter until softened a bit, but not browned. (I chopped 1 huge onion and about 5 stalks of celery).</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5c15e218b68703a6564387ee7cfd0720fc5eb153/original/celery-onions-and-sage-in-the-pan-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjU4eDI4NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="286" width="258" /></p>
<p><em>Sidebar: This is a great place to save a step for the next day. Since you'll very probably make some hash over the next few days (won't you?), sauté extra sage, celery and onion and set it aside. Your hash is now about a third done!</em></p>
<p>OK, back to the dressing...</p>
<p>Make sure this mixture is well salted and peppered. Then moisten the mixture with some of the turkey stock that I KNOW you made in advance along with some melted butter (how much butter is up to you...). Place this in a well-buttered casserole, cover it with foil, and bake it for about 1/2 hour at 350° or so. Uncover it and stir a bit, occasionally, and leave the foil off for however long it takes to get to the level of dry/moist you like. (Wars are fought over the relative dryness of dressing... I know!)</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/790c7e3e80455e628958e2496917394e8c2e04b0/original/featured-player-dressing-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTQxeDM4MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="383" width="541" /></p>
<p>I've got to tell you... making dressing with homemade bread was a little crazy, but OMG was the flavor/texture amazing. And the little bit that's left will make its way into the aforementioned hash quite happily.</p>
<p><em><em>Originally posted on December 5, 2013</em></em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412482018-11-16T12:32:28-05:002020-01-05T23:32:39-05:00Thanksgiving Lessons Learned
<p> </p>
<p>Over the years, I've been blessed to work alongside and learn from some of America's foremost chefs. Whenever I do, I try to take some time afterwards to think... what did I learn?</p>
<p>So it should be with celebrating Thanksgiving. Of course, no two chefs (or families, for that matter) will approach the particulars of the feast in the same way. Even so, from a culinary perspective, I like to look back at the many Thanksgiving feasts I've shared and ask... what did I learn?</p>
<p>Here are a few tricks I've picked up that I hope prove helpful to you. I'll be posting more details on each of these this weekend, but for now, This Old Chef says...</p>
<p>ҩ Spatchcocking the turkey is THE way to go: moist meat, crisp skin, and an 11-pound bird done in 80 minutes. Truly.</p>
<p>ҩ Make your gravy days ahead (make a stock from turkey parts instead of waiting to make it from the bird in the last hectic minutes before serving). You can even pour a bit of pan drippings in (if you feel the need to make yourself rush at the last minute). This year I added some duxelles and brandy... Oh my goodness!</p>
<p>ҩ You can peel and cut your potatoes (for mashed potatoes) early in the day. Just keep them covered with cold water.</p>
<p>ҩ Make your cranberry sauce (chutney in our case) early in the week.</p>
<p>ҩ Set the table the day before.</p>
<p>ҩ Always heat your plates.</p>
<p>ҩ If your vegetable can be reheated or finished cooking later (we had succotash) (with a little bacon), get the first part of the cooking done early.</p>
<p>ҩ Our "dressing" is old-fashioned sage-bread-celery-onion. Sautéed the celery and onions 2 days before... cubed and toasted the bread 2 days before (and by the way, <em>toast</em>, don't just let it get stale, really). Mix it early in the day, get it in the pan, keep it cold... cook partially while the oven is heating... then all you have to do is finish it while the cooked turkey rests.</p>
<p>ҩ This brings us to The One Thing No One Wants to Do: The turkey, lightly tented with foil, will stay REALLY hot for at least 30-40 minutes, if not more. So. REST YOUR TURKEY! It really makes a difference.</p>
<p>Most important...</p>
<p>Enjoy whatever meal you put on the table! Enjoy your loved ones! Enjoy every day!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/f055834f20fe369b38bb26d8ed6e219b2eb1e974/original/thanksgiving-2017-final.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTgzeDQzOCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="438" width="583" /></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">And to the treasured <em>This Old Chef</em> faithful...</p>
<p>I just want to let you know how thankful I am for all of you who read... consider... and cook from the blog. It means the world to me. The world may be a bit scary at the moment, but we need always to remember that we have wonderful things to be thankful for...</p>
<p>Happy Thanksgiving!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412492018-11-16T12:00:00-05:002021-11-07T13:26:54-05:00Stock Up on Turkey Stock!<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="color:#c0392b;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">I cannot believe it's already Thanksgiving!</span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="color:#c0392b;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">My elderly parents warned me about time speeding up but, like every child, I didn't believe them.</span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="color:#c0392b;"> </span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="color:#c0392b;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">Guess what. They win.</span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="color:#c0392b;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"> </span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="color:#c0392b;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">So h</span></span>ere are two earlier This Old Chef posts, one that will definitely help speed things up on Thanksgiving Day... and another that will REALLY help in the days that follow!</span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p><em><span style="color:#008000"><span style="text-decoration:underline">Turkey Stock, or Turkey Jello, If You Prefer</span></span></em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4d82b1439e77c7b1ea1b35e6d138c94b0acf98ac/original/turkey-jello-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzIzeDMwNyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="307" width="323" /></p>
<p>So, how do you manage to have enough "liquid" to make turkey gravy without making everyone wait... AND without making yourself crazy during the wild last minutes of preparing the Thanksgiving feast?</p>
<p>Simple... sometime during the week before the big day... buy a few packages of turkey parts: drumsticks, wings, necks and backs (if you can get them) and a small package of ground dark meat...</p>
<p>Brown all of it well and make a stock with celery, onions, peppercorns, and the trimmings from a bunch of fresh sage. That way, you can chill it and remove all of the fat... and it's in the fridge waiting for you turn it into gravy.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c690455e45c7c3c4fffd01963d466330e0c243a2/original/thanksgiving-prep-3-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTAxeDQxNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="416" width="501" /></p>
<p>Or you can even make the gravy itself a day or two in advance. THEN, on the day, you can add a bit of the drippings, or use a bit of the stock you saved to deglaze the roasting pan... but the gravy itself will already be done!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/ebc5f515272f90fdacb2776b8778e6ba71c70a55/original/turkey-gravy-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzYxeDI4NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="285" width="361" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p><em><span style="color:#008000"><span style="text-decoration:underline">The Remains of the Day: Turkey Stock</span></span></em> </p>
<p>You knew it had to happen... a 12-pound turkey... two diners... There had to be some REMAINING turkey, right? I say "remaining" because I refuse to use The L Word!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/cc360d7896df9541edf582558d639997db5eab4b/original/the-turkey-2012-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mzk5eDMxMSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="311" width="399" /></p>
<p>So the first thing you do on Thanksgiving night: break up the carcass, and put it in a big stock pot with water and the trimmings from all of the onions, celery, garlic and herbs you saved as you were cooking earlier in the day...</p>
<p>Simmer this mess for about 2 hours, strain out the solids, and chill the stock. The next day, skim off the fat (which is perfectly useable... and tasty!)...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/87e115a5fe775d18ca158605362f6f3cede3f4bb/original/schmalzy-turkey-stock-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzU0eDI4OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="288" width="354" /></p>
<p>and you're left with a wonderful broth that's ready for soups, curries, moistening stuffing (i.e., dressing, if you're from my neck of the woods), and 100 other uses.</p>
<p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412462018-11-12T06:12:17-05:002022-05-13T03:24:13-04:00A Happy Thanksgiving Memory!
<p> </p>
<p><em>Remembering a wonderful Thanksgiving from a few years ago...</em></p>
<p><em>I loved this part!</em></p>
<p>HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!</p>
<p>In honor of the Founding Father who wanted the turkey to be declared our national symbol because the eagle was a bird "not of good moral character..."</p>
<p>I thought you'd get a kick out of this shot of me as Ben Franklin in the Connecticut Rep production of Theresa Rebeck's <em>O Beautiful</em> directed by Joe Hanreddy...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/47806f6164790e1b617f320e42ef0caf5411a396/original/david-as-ben-franklin-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDAweDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="400" /></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><em><br></em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412452018-11-01T08:28:31-04:002020-01-05T23:32:39-05:00Sorta Salisbury (Hamburgers with Shiitake Mushrooms, Shallots, Sherry, Rosemary, and Cream)
<p> </p>
<p>For some unfathomable reason, Salisbury steak has popped up in discussions over the past few days.</p>
<p>The idea of an actual Salisbury steak holds no appeal for me, especially <em><span style="text-decoration:underline">three</span> <span style="text-decoration:underline">times</span> <span style="text-decoration:underline">a</span> <span style="text-decoration:underline">day</span></em>, as Dr. James Henry Salisbury intended when he introduced this dish to the world in 1888. But when Charlie requested a burger the other night, I thought it might be fun to play around with some of the elements.</p>
<p>I had some fresh shiitake mushrooms from the test kitchen, so I minced a shallot and the shiitakes and sautéed them in EVOO. To boost the <em>umami</em> factor, I added a large pinch of my porcini salt (thank you again, Kay Chun!). When everybody was softened and starting to brown, I added a splash of sherry, 1T minced rosemary, and a splash of white wine. I let all of this reduce until almost dry, and then... don’t hate me... I added heavy cream. Then I let that bubble gently away, and tasted for salt and (especially) black pepper.</p>
<p>Next, I made my usual basic burger: a touch of smoked salt, a ton of black pepper, and a very, very hot cast iron skillet dusted with kosher salt. I plated some undressed arugula (Really, there’s mushroom cream sauce and burger juices... Who needs dressing?!?), gently reheated some mashed potatoes (topped with chives to freshen them up), the burger... and the truly extravagantly delicious sauce.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b619322dc41449bb7da66b4fcaf449aac0a72d2a/original/sorta-salisbury1.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzUweDU2MSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="561" width="750" /></p>
<p>No, this is not the Salisbury steak of your childhood or grade school nightmares. This is a reinvention. An amazing step up! This was one of those giggly sit-at-table-for-hours kind of meals. Try it. Trust me. Even if you don’t have the bizarre semi-fond memories of Salisbury steak that I do.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412442018-10-25T09:19:02-04:002020-01-05T23:32:39-05:00Cocktail Pizza!
<p> </p>
<p>It was the weekend and a tough week it had been!</p>
<p>A cocktail nosh was in order.</p>
<p>I halved some moderately stale baguette.</p>
<p>I minced a bit of salami from the test kitchen.</p>
<p>I added the salami to some shredded (fresh) mozzarella and chopped tomatoes (yes... tomatoes... still!).</p>
<p>Salt. Pepper. Some chives.</p>
<p>I slathered this mix on the baguette halves, and broiled them until the cheese was bubbling and the exposed baguette was toasted. Watch it closely! The bread can burn fast!</p>
<p>Once out of the oven... more chives. Let it cool a few moments and... Mangia!</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/62cc79317b965bda725e14a2078a2d105e032767/original/baguette-pizza1a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Nzc4eDU3MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="573" width="778" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412432018-10-19T04:21:48-04:002020-01-05T23:32:39-05:00Sautéed Vegetables on Polenta
<p> </p>
<p>This very bare-bones title does not begin to describe the meal we had!</p>
<p>I started making the polenta... Slowly...</p>
<p style="text-align: right;"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/soft_polenta/</em></p>
<p>While it cooked (and I stirred), I sautéed 1 bunch of chopped broccoli rabe <em>(and no... I don’t blanch... I like bitter! If I wanted to get rid of the bitter, I WOULDN'T BE EATING BROCCOLI RABE!!!)</em> in EVOO until it started to soften.</p>
<p>Then I added halved cherry tomatoes, and corn freshly cut from the cob, and a bit of sage. At this point, it does not need to be cooked much longer. Fresh corn almost raw is my preferred style.</p>
<p>When the vegetables were perfectly done, I ladled them on to the soft polenta...</p>
<p>Topped with cotija cheese and a drizzle of EVOO...</p>
<p>Some great salt and a few grinds of pepper...</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/bc4fff5126b164fb5b3795f9770fc4b6594cf893/original/vegetables-on-polenta1.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Nzc4eDU3MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="573" width="778" /></p>
<p>If I may say so, A Triumph of Simplicity.</p>
<p>Really delicious. Vegetable forward. Just <em>al dente</em> enough.</p>
<p>Yum.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412422018-10-12T08:00:00-04:002021-01-08T17:22:28-05:00Brocco-gnese! (Pasta with Broccoli Rabe and Bolognese Sauce)<p> </p>
<p>BROCCO-GNESE!</p>
<p>Too cute? I had to...</p>
<p>We had some beautiful broccoli rabe, so I was looking forward to making my luscious pasta with <em>broccoli di rape</em> and hot Italian sausage...</p>
<p><em><strong><a contents="Orechiette with Italian Sausage & Broccoli Rabe" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/orecchiette-with-italian-sausage-broccoli-rabe" style="" target="_blank">Orechiette with Italian Sausage & Broccoli Rabe</a></strong></em></p>
<p><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/orecchiette_with_italian_sausage__broccoli_rabe/</em></p>
<p>But there was no Italian sausage in the fridge. (How the hell could that happen?!?)</p>
<p>Then I remembered I’d frozen some Bolognese a few weeks ago after making my Pizza alla Bolognese...</p>
<p><em><strong><a contents="Sunday Gravy (Homemade Bolognese) and Pizza!" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/sunday-gravy-homemade-bolognese-and-pizza" style="" target="_blank">Sunday Gravy (Homemade Bolognese) and Pizza!</a></strong></em></p>
<p>Bingo! Brocco-gnese! Che buono!</p>
<p>I trimmed and sliced the rapini (stems small, leaves and florets larger) and sautéed them for just a bit in EVOO. Once they’d turned bright green but weren’t completely cooked, I added some of my Bolognese to the pan...</p>
<p>Wow, did this smell good! I added about a pound of not-quite-cooked pasta to the pan, and continued to cook until the pasta was perfect. Then, in went a large handful of Parmigiano.</p>
<p>I scooped generous portions into hot bowls, sprinkled on more Parmigiano, and...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/f8c4dfb5d60dcab2cbc110c6ec0ea01363175510/original/pasta-brocco-gnese1-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjA1eDQ4MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="482" width="605" /></p>
<p>Just. Incredible!</p>
<p>A totally different feel from the rabe/sausage I often make. This was a lot richer and more complex. It won’t replace the original, but it will take its place right next to it in the rotation!!!</p>
<p>Wow!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412412018-09-28T09:24:48-04:002020-01-05T23:32:39-05:00Sautéed Shrimp with Tarragon Garlic Sauce, Succotash and Rice
<p><br> OK. So sue me. I’m old-fashioned.</p>
<p>Sale on shrimp.</p>
<p>Over-abundance of tarragon in the yard.</p>
<p>Corn from the test kitchen.</p>
<p>And some remarkable hot sauce as well.</p>
<p>I made a huge batch of rice so Charlie could have the veal stew I tested on Friday for lunch ALL WEEK. And having that rice put me in mind of some kind of rice dish... including the sale shrimp and the tarragon. So...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/afde6a8bfc9be48596a20421b3ecac743a3c1ca1/original/shrimp-tarragon-with-succotash-2aaa-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDk1eDQxMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="410" width="495" /></p>
<p>I sautéed some garlic, added white wine and stock, reduced it to nothing and set it aside.</p>
<p>I barely cooked the shrimp in butter, took it off the heat, and added the garlic sauce along with a lot of tarragon. When it was cool, I added 1/2 C sour cream. While this continued cooling, I sautéed some cooked lima beans and raw corn (off the cob) in butter, then added some minced sage, salt, and a tablespoon of hot sauce (you can use red pepper flakes or minced fresh hot peppers).</p>
<p>Salivating, I plated some of the hot rice... the succotash... and the gently reheated shrimp and sauce... along with a sprinkling of more minced tarragon.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8b661c46e337fa39dc99a6a53b8b741788658883/original/shrimp-tarragon-with-succotash-1aaa.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjczeDUwMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="503" width="673" /></p>
<p>This is wildly old-fashioned. And wildly delicious.</p>
<p>New is not necessarily better.</p>
<p>Old is not necessarily worse.</p>
<p>Cook what makes you happy.</p>
<p>This made us REALLY happy.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412392018-09-11T14:24:41-04:002020-01-05T23:32:38-05:00Get-It-While-It's-Hot Chicken Schnitzel! (with Shallots, Capers, Herbs, and Dragon Cayenne on White Rice)
<p> </p>
<p>I know, I know... I make schnitzel a LOT.</p>
<p>It’s fast.</p>
<p>It’s absolutely delicious.</p>
<p>And if you fry and sauce mindfully, it’s not at all bad for you.</p>
<p>So there.</p>
<p>This started out with my usual chicken schnitzel... I'm a firm believer that chickens are bred with too much breast meat these days, so I use just half of one to serve us both when making schnitzel.</p>
<p>It's plenty.</p>
<p>I sliced the half breast like a book, separated the "leaves," pounded them thin, salted and peppered them, dusted them with flour, dipped them in egg white (sometime, just save out 1 egg white when making an extra rich breakfast of scrambled eggs... the extra yolk makes a <em>huge</em> difference), and then coated them in fresh bread crumbs (just buzz leftover pieces of baguette in the processor). These get a quick sauté in EVOO and butter. When the schnitzels are done, I set them on a plate in a 350° oven.</p>
<p>Now, I always like to start the sauce separately... and it was a game changer! Sauté some minced shallots in EVOO along with some rinsed salt-packed capers <em>and</em> a whole dragon cayenne, minced. When everybody looks and smells good, add a big splash of white wine and reduce it. Just before serving, toss in 3 (or more) T unsalted butter. And Let. It. Melt.</p>
<p>I was able to reheat some white rice from the fridge. <em>(Be Your Own Sous Chef 101!)</em></p>
<p>Place the schnitzel atop the rice... Pour the sauce on... Scatter basil and chives.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/2814e36a445a66d42832ebca9701a5c84d263f29/original/schnitzel-with-dragon-cayenne-1x.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjM2eDUzMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="533" width="636" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;">Eat.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">Rejoice.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412372018-08-26T02:42:40-04:002020-01-05T23:32:38-05:00(Beef) Curry in A Hurry!
<p> </p>
<p>I really, really wanted Indian food.</p>
<p>But it was a weeknight and I left work a little late.</p>
<p>But I really wanted Indian food.</p>
<p>So as soon as I got in the door, I started some rice...</p>
<p style="text-align: right;"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/perfect_rice/</em></p>
<p>And immediately after that I started to fry a minced onion. When the onion started to turn dark, I added minced garlic... a whole cayenne, minced... and a world of spices (curry powder, ground toasted cumin, galangal, turmeric, coriander, cardamom)... and 3/4 lb. of ground beef.</p>
<p>I found some half-cooked potato chunks in the fridge, so I finished sautéing them in oil and turmeric and added them to the curry.</p>
<p>After a few minutes, I added a splash of water <em>(no need for stock, this is flavorful enough)</em> and tasted for salt. I realized it really needed salt as I hadn’t added any! Just before serving, I tossed in some frozen peas. They just needed enough time to thaw and warm up.</p>
<p>Bowl ~</p>
<p>Rice ~</p>
<p>Curry ~</p>
<p>A shower of toasted cumin ~</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5b38b09fa5fdd61c27d8eb9036e9ed45588cf6d6/original/beef-curry-in-a-hurry1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzYxeDU2MSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="561" width="761" /></p>
<p>BOOM! If I do say myself...</p>
<p>And in 30 minutes!</p>
<p>P.S. I had the half-cooked potato cubes in the fridge because I made sautéed potatoes the other day, and realized halfway through that I had way too many. So I pulled a few out, saved them, and finished sautéing the remainder for dinner tonight. Be your own sous chef!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412352018-08-08T05:11:59-04:002020-01-05T23:32:38-05:00A Different Greek Salad
<p> </p>
<p>I love all of the ingredients in a typical “Greek” salad... which is actually a wonderful Greek-American invention: feta, tomatoes, oregano, greens, cucumbers, red onions, kalamata olives, vinaigrette, etc.</p>
<p>And the olives are central... Dark, meaty, salty, earthy...</p>
<p><em>Or ARE they???</em></p>
<p>As I started putting the salad together, I realized that I had no olives. OK... I had green ones, but that just seemed WRONG. So I thought I’d try the salad, just this once, sans olives. I tossed in some rinsed capers because I couldn’t quite go cold turkey on the Salty Explosion part.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a755ce3752970b6ca2a5da2e69c295c77a6c6869/original/a-different-greek-salad1-1.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzQweDU0MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="543" width="740" /></p>
<p>Folks, this was a revelation! Clean, bright, vibrant, fresh. Without the bass note from the olives, everything else exploded.</p>
<p>Try this.</p>
<p>Really.</p>
<p>Try this.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412322018-07-18T10:40:57-04:002020-01-05T23:32:38-05:00REALLY Good Avocado Salad
<p>We had avocados.</p>
<p>The garden was overflowing with young greens.</p>
<p>I had chickpeas.</p>
<p>I had some mixed grated cheeses.</p>
<p>I had kalamata olives.</p>
<p>And it was hot.</p>
<p>SALAD!</p>
<p>I made a vinaigrette in the bowl: vinegar, salt, pepper, mustard. In went chopped avocados, olives, chickpeas, as well as the cheeses.</p>
<p>Then, just before adding the greens, I decided to do some lily-gilding.</p>
<p>I rinsed, drained, and dried some capers... and fried them in hot EVOO until crisp and slightly browned. I dried them on paper towels...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/49c171026a52860c409d595b0feeb49fecfc11f1/original/chickpea-and-avocado-salad-with-garden-greens1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjE0eDQ3NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="474" width="614" /></p>
<p>I tossed the greens in the bowl with the chickpeas et al., plated the salad, garnished with the capers...</p>
<p>And WOW! That was a great salad! I’m really happy summer is here!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412332018-07-16T15:20:37-04:002021-08-31T01:31:50-04:00Bow "Thai" Pasta
<p> </p>
<p>Bow "Thai" Pasta!</p>
<p>Yes, I really went there.</p>
<p>We wanted Thai. I wasn’t in the mood to make rice.</p>
<p>Hmmm... I had a scathingly brilliant idea...</p>
<p>And this turned out to be a great dinner!</p>
<p>I made my usual Thai green curry...</p>
<p style="text-align: right;"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/thai_turkey/</em></p>
<p>Threw in some black beans and baby limas for a little meatiness and then, instead of putting it on rice...</p>
<p>I put it on farfalle.</p>
<p>Hence the pun.</p>
<p>Topped with peanuts, some chopped Thai basil from the garden, and a squeeze of lime!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/2ace8939c79b934412dcf2d8d4df8bec27457e62/original/bow-thai-pasta-1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTQxeDM4MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="382" width="541" /></p>
<p>Trust me, this is really fun and delicious!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412312018-07-03T02:57:03-04:002020-01-05T23:32:38-05:00Individual Blueberry Pies for The Fourth of July!
<p><em><br></em></p>
<p><em> </em></p>
<p><em>One of my all-time favorite recipes, and perfect for setting off the fireworks at your holiday table!</em></p>
<p>I have long been inordinately proud of my pies. And yes, I know it goeth before a fall. But I learned from the master, Maureen Kavanagh McCann... my mother. We even had a friendly rivalry concerning pie crust!</p>
<p>When it's just the two of us for dinner, a whole pie is a bit much. But Fairway had a HUGE sale on blueberries, sooooooo...</p>
<p>I looked around the kitchen and found two ramekins that were deeper and a bit wider than my regular ramekins, so I decided that I would make two individual blueberry pies.</p>
<p>Now, never having made individual pies like this before... you can see I overfilled. But hey, blueberry syrup running down the sides makes it look "rustic," right?</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/255afc98a358be876680bef6c1f662ff40505422/original/blackberry-pie-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTQ4eDQ1MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="452" width="548" /></p>
<p>My dough couldn't be simpler: 2C AP flour, a pinch of salt, 2/3 C lard <em>(yes, you heard me), </em>2T unsalted butter, and 4T ice water. It's the basic recipe from <em>The Joy of Cooking</em> that I've used forever.</p>
<p>And the filling was 1 pint blueberries, 1/3 C sugar, a dash of cinnamon, 2t tapioca, and a pinch of salt.</p>
<p>I fitted the dough in the ramekins, divided the filling, topped each pie with dabs of butter, put on the top crusts, sprinkled the tops with sugar... baked them on a cookie sheet at 450° for 10 minutes... and then 350° for about 35 minutes...</p>
<p>OMG I've missed my pies!!!</p>
<p style="text-align: right;"><em>Originally posted on July 13, 2014</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412302018-06-28T14:48:39-04:002020-01-05T23:32:38-05:00Black Beans and Rice with Avocado
<p> </p>
<p>So, we had a few avocados from a big sale at Stew's. They were ready to be used. But as what?</p>
<p>I didn’t just want to make guacamole.</p>
<p>And it was a school night, so I didn’t want to spend hours...</p>
<p>So. I minced an onion and 3 ribs of celery and sautéed them in EVOO. When they were softened a bit, I added some cumin, smoked salt, and two minced indeterminate hot peppers and a large can of black beans with their liquid. <em>(Yes, I used the liquid! I’ve discovered that with good canned beans, the can contains only beans, water, and salt. So why not!)</em> I let this simmer away for a bit... heated some rice... minced a big handful of cilantro... tossed in half (saving the rest to top the dish)... and diced an avocado.</p>
<p>Serve in hot bowls. Rice in the bottom. Beans next. Cilantro. And avocado.</p>
<p>For about 15 minutes of work, this was great.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/92213fac90d1a8bb4339b556fb214227f2fb3b25/original/black-beans-and-rice-with-avocado1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTg2eDQyMSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="421" width="586" /></p>
<p>PS. Sour cream would not go amiss, but I didn’t have any and it was creamy and delicious without!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412292018-06-16T04:25:30-04:002020-01-05T23:32:38-05:00Broccoli, Sausage, Red Wine & Arugula Pasta (Addendum: Bonum Gustavit Victoria!)
<p> </p>
<p>I don’t usually write about failures.<br><br>But we all have them.<br><br>And there’s no shame.<br><br>AND this wasn’t even actually a failure...<br><br>It just wasn’t what I wanted it to be.<br><br>As I’m sure you all remember from past posts, we love pasta with hot Italian sausage, garlic, Parmigiano, and broccoli rabe. Sometimes, as I posted yesterday...</p>
<p><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/broccoli_sausage_and_red_wine_pasta/</em></p>
<p>When I have no broccoli rabe, I use broccoli. Now, I love broccoli. It’s one of my favorite foods...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/375c03d6e430248a19f8f877d5afb0c1eb44c422/original/broccoli-florets.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTMxeDM0NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="344" width="531" /></p>
<p>And recently, being rabe-less, I decided to employ my old substitute...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4fa327c5d8feac20a5a32b6b16f624c0f264637f/original/broccoli-italian-sausage-and-red-wine-pasta1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTM2eDQwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="400" width="536" /></p>
<p>Well, kids... No Dice. This was fine. Sorta kinda. After all, great sausage, Parmigiano, garlic, cream... what’s not to love? But boy, was there something missing.</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">The bracing oomph, the wild bitter edge that broccoli rabe brings, was not there. How interesting to discover that neither one of us was fooled by the formerly successful substitution.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/22a54b482fdf8129800ec8034e932eb808846db6/original/broccoli-rabe.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTQxeDM2MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="360" width="541" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration:underline">Addendum</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;">I realized the next morning that I used to add a handful of arugula!!!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/12f3cb254439fae44e467e8be07f1033d6b07dfb/original/arugula2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTQxeDQwNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="406" width="541" /></p>
<p>A couple of days later, I did just that, and, with the requisite bitterness restored...</p>
<p>VICTORY!</p>
<p>Still not the real deal, of course, but the <em>This Is Pretty Damn Good When There’s No Broccoli Rabe at Hand</em> variation was restored to its former place of honor in the rep.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412282018-06-15T07:27:26-04:002020-01-21T19:18:03-05:00Broccoli, Sausage, and Red Wine Pasta
<p> </p>
<p>Oy, what a day.</p>
<p>We all knew it was coming... but no one REALLY believes the weather forecast, right? Well come they did. Huge, dangerous storms: very high winds, hail, seriously torrential rains, lots of trees down, etc. The real problem, for us, is that a hefty portion of our commute is above ground, in an area where even moderate storms can cause trees to come down on the tracks. And, true to form...</p>
<p>Long story short, we made it! And we were even about 95% dry. And no damage at the house. Shwew.</p>
<p>So I truly wanted a comfort meal... Ergo, pasta.</p>
<p>I blanched and shocked a bunch of broccoli florets.</p>
<p>I sautéed some hot Italian sausage. Then I deglazed the pan with dry red wine, and let it reduce and soak into the sausage. I added the broccoli and an <em>obscene</em> amount of cream (I told you I wanted comfort!!!) and in went the almost-cooked pasta.</p>
<p>When the pasta was just right, I turned off the flame, stirred in some Parmigiano, and we ate and ate and ate...</p>
<p>Storms forgotten!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4fa327c5d8feac20a5a32b6b16f624c0f264637f/original/broccoli-italian-sausage-and-red-wine-pasta1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjgxeDUxMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="510" width="681" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412262018-05-11T04:21:19-04:002020-01-05T23:32:37-05:00Hamapalooza Lives! Ham and Wild Rice Cakes with Poached Shrimp and Horseradish Mayo Sauce
<p> </p>
<p>As you all know, I love making “cakes.”</p>
<p>Not the sweet kind... I’m not great at those.</p>
<p>But the savory ones with vegetables, or grains, or cooked meats, or (some) raw meats... that kind of cake!</p>
<p>Right after Easter, with that big pretty spiral-sliced Easter ham in the fridge, I took two whole pieces off the ham, minced it, and put it in a bowl. To that I added about 3/4C of cooked wild rice from a dinner a few nights before. I added an egg, and some mayo and mustard. Then some bread crumbs... not a lot. I tried to form some of the mixture into a ball in order to shape a cake.</p>
<p>Damn. It wouldn’t hold together.</p>
<p>So I had a few choices: Flour. More mayo. More eggs. I wasn’t really wild about any of those choices.</p>
<p>Another choice came to me: a quick couple of pulses in the Cuisinart! That’s the way I decided to go, but I only pulsed a few times... I didn’t want a dense baby-food texture. So, a few pulses later it was still chunky, but a bit more cohesive. I hedged my bets with another dollop of mayo, fried a small test cake... success! I formed the cakes, coated them in more breadcrumbs, and fried them in a bit of EVOO.</p>
<p>For the sauce, I knew I wanted horseradish because I was also going to serve a few poached shrimp from the test kitchen. But I thought it would be fun to skip the tomato component common to most cocktail sauces, so I added freshly grated horseradish from our garden to some mayo and sour cream... with a bit of Dijon thrown in to complete the sinus-clearing profile we love.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8cb52978590290166a58ee3b0a735a6ccf27badd/original/ham-wild-rice-cakes-with-poached-shrimp-and-horseradish-sauce-1.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjgxeDQ3MSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="471" width="681" /></p>
<p>Two hot ham and wild rice cakes. A few chilled, poached shrimp. A big swoosh of that bracing sauce. A shower of chives. Crazy fun! One of those giggle-all-night dinners we like so much. And you don't have to wait for next Easter... When you're enjoying that picnic ham this summer, try this cake thing! I’m serious. It transforms things.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412252018-05-08T05:13:44-04:002020-01-21T19:18:01-05:00Crab Andouille Étouffée
<p> </p>
<p>I am not from New Orleans.<br><br>But I do love me some Cajun/Creole food!!!<br><br>The test kitchen had recently given me some andouille sausage and a bit of crab and, as you well know, with crab, Time Is of The Essence. So I decided to try my hand at an étouffée. It wouldn’t be classic, but the general parameters would be respected.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/6e87f921c4d405a87e34c67cd7740c68bb4cf575/original/crab-andouille-etouffee-2a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTA3eDQ0MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="440" width="507" /><br><br>I looked up about 20 recipes… Read them… Put them away and got to work.<br><br>I heated 1/4C oil with 1/4C flour and cooked the roux for about 15 minutes until it was a light milk chocolate color. (Very dark roux are for other dishes, I learned.) To this I added the world famous trinity: chopped onions, celery, and green peppers. I let this cook away for another 5-7 minutes and then added chicken stock.<br><br>While this bubbled gently, I sautéed 2 sliced andouille until just starting to brown and then added them to the simmering roux/vegetable mixture. In went some smoked salt, black pepper, and red pepper flakes, and a few shakes of Worcestershire sauce. I also had a small piece of chicken breast in the fridge, so I cut that up and tossed it in along with about 1/2C of chopped parsley.</p>
<p>I made a pot of rice…</p>
<p style="text-align: right;"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/perfect_rice/</em></p>
<p>Seconds before serving, I added the crab... tasted for seasonings... grated a bit of lemon zest (why not)… pressed some rice into a ramekin… unmolded that into a hot serving bowl… and surrounded the rice with a moat of étouffée (the traditional way it’s served). I topped it with sliced scallions and more parsley.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3349bdff174a8e6c005556ae2418be6b8369561c/original/crab-andouille-etouffee-1aa.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTk2eDQ1MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="453" width="596" /></p>
<p>Guess what? Not only was I ridiculously proud of myself, I’m willing to bet people from NOLA would have been pleased with this bowl o’ étouffée!<br><br>PS. I did serve Tabasco on the side… when in Rome…<br><br></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412242018-04-20T00:50:12-04:002020-01-05T23:32:37-05:00A Tale of Potatoes in Red Wine (with Chorizo)
<p> </p>
<p>Charlie and I have lived together for 40 years.</p>
<p>I do 99% of the cooking.</p>
<p>Early on, I terrified him with the food I made... a chili that included broccoli and corn, for example. But he soldiered on and expanded his culinary horizons.</p>
<p>And I learned to cook.</p>
<p>However, there remains one thing I made years ago that still induces shudders in him. It was something I used to have in the residence hall at York University in Toronto: a griddled, grated potato-and-onion, diner-style side with red wine.</p>
<p>So I tried to make it. I did not succeed. Rawish potatoes, harsh red wine, horribly under-seasoned... It was just awful.</p>
<p>But I still dream of this combo. It really was tasty (to my 19-year-old self).</p>
<p>The other day, while I was watching a food show, some chef mentioned potatoes with red wine. We laughed out loud... But my mind started racing...</p>
<p>Then I was given some chorizo from the test kitchen, and suddenly a light bulb went off!</p>
<p>So I peeled and "chunked" 4 potatoes, put them in water and nuked them until almost fork tender, and then sautéed them in EVOO until golden and set them aside.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/0841a55f4d7e0d041257afd67f69bcfdf9ca527f/original/potatoes-in-red-wine-1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzY2eDQ5MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="493" width="366" /></p>
<p>In another pan, I sautéed 1 sliced onion until golden, then added 2 equally chunked chorizo and browned them. I threw in a few minced garlic cloves and a hefty splash of red wine... you heard me!!! I let that simmer away, and the wine reduced to a deep red chorizo-y glaze.</p>
<p>The only seasonings were salt and tons of black pepper.</p>
<p>At the very last moment, I re-warmed the potatoes and added the chorizo/wine mixture.</p>
<p>I placed it in front of Charlie. He started laughing when he realized it was yet another attempt at potatoes and red wine.</p>
<p>Then he tasted it. And I can now relax.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/f3edeb85bd813990fc1199e4969a2fb0601f03db/original/potatoes-in-red-wine-2a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDc5eDQ5MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="490" width="479" /></p>
<p>I DID IT! It wasn’t the diner dish from Toronto, but it incorporated many of the tastes. And it was delicious. And it was simple.</p>
<p>And... he wants it again!</p>
<p>Victory is mine, sayeth This Old Chef!!!!!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412232018-04-07T11:00:00-04:002021-06-05T08:59:27-04:00Fresh Pasta with Garlic Shrimp, Parsley, Toasted Breadcrumbs and Lemon Zest<p>Sometimes...</p>
<p>Ya just gotta go with a classic.</p>
<p>I had some shrimp from the test kitchen, along with parsley. So, while I did other things, I marinated the shrimp in EVOO, minced garlic, salt, and red pepper flakes.</p>
<p>This is one of those fast recipes.</p>
<p>So I put the pasta on.</p>
<p><em>(You may Of Course use dried pasta. On this particular evening, I wanted the freshest pasta to complement the other ingredients! Here's the link...</em></p>
<p><a contents="Fresh Pasta... Without Eggs!" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/fresh-pasta-without-eggs" target="_blank"><em>Fresh Pasta... Without Eggs!</em></a></p>
<p>I poured a little more EVOO into a sauté pan, then added the shrimp and tons of sliced garlic.</p>
<p>Now, you know me... one of my biggest pet peeves is over-cooked shrimp. Really, just get them a little pink, they’ll finish, trust me.</p>
<p>So the second I saw some pink, I added a splash of white wine and some minced parsley. This all on <em>LOW HEAT</em>. As soon as the shrimp were all pink, I turned off he heat, added some butter, more parsley, and lemon zest. Then I added the cooked pasta (yes, unlike most of my recipes, I cooked the pasta until done before adding it to the sauce).</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/e00d979e9341becb03b4bc2258fad48f1313f54d/original/pasta-with-shrimp-1xx.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjI3eDQ2NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="465" width="627" /></p>
<p>Hot plates... a sprinkle of toasted bread crumbs... a few grates of lemon zest... a glass of white... and two very happy pigs!!!!!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412182018-03-15T05:07:44-04:002020-01-05T23:32:36-05:00Irish Soda Bread (Delicious ANY Time of Year!)
<p> </p>
<p>Following a large number of requests... I'm going to repost a recipe for soda bread today...</p>
<p>Bear with me... and be prepared, I like a far more traditional recipe... no fat and no sugar or raisins...</p>
<p>So... while I have a few minutes...</p>
<p>4C AP flour… or 3½ C AP flour and ½C whole wheat</p>
<p>1t salt</p>
<p>1t baking soda</p>
<p>1T caraway seeds</p>
<p>1½ -1¾C buttermilk (or...if you want it richer, whole milk soured with about a tablespoon of sour cream and a splash of white vinegar)</p>
<p>Combine all ingredients and mix... but just barely. Mound the dough onto a well-greased cookie sheet... or, if you have a Silpat, this is a great time to use it... and slice a deep cross in the top (to let the fairies out!).</p>
<p>Bake for 15 minutes in a preheated 450° oven. Lower the heat to 400° and bake another 20-30 minutes.</p>
<p>Now trust me on this: you need to let it cool for at least 15 minutes on a rack... no matter how much you want eat it right away. But when the 15 minutes are up... slice away, slather it with good unsalted Irish butter... sprinkle with good sea salt... and thank the gods that there will always be an Ireland!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/0ecf956a19db24529a9668bfb15e8f1b372d4021/original/soda-breads-2a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjI2eDU2NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="566" width="626" /></p>
<p>The day after, this bread will be very dry... but what a good excuse to toast it and add even more butter!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412162018-03-04T03:56:26-05:002020-01-05T23:32:36-05:00Sautéed Greens and Andouille Pasta
<p> </p>
<p>I had some baby kale and baby spinach from the Test Kitchen...</p>
<p>I also had some garlic, onions, and 2 andouille sausages...</p>
<p>So... I minced the onions and sautéed them in EVOO until soft. Then I added the roughly chopped andouille and about 2 teaspoons of herbes de Provence. When all of that started to brown, I de-glazed the pan with some white wine, and added a bit of chicken stock.</p>
<p>Then, in went the minced garlic and all of the greens. They melted almost immediately...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/d4e201e53dc99c2759cc2c11544f66d4934c88f6/original/greens-andouille-pasta-2af.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzYyeDU1MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="552" width="762" /></p>
<p>I added smoked salt, black pepper, and red pepper flakes, and a splash of pasta water. Finally, in went some <em>almost</em> cooked pasta (which finished cooking in the sauce).</p>
<p>Once the pasta was done, I turned off the heat and added the Parmigiano. Not at all like pasta with Italian sausages and greens, but different in a way that makes me want it again and again...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/cc9dba0b906af526ea74cc07c3bc888994403168/original/greens-andouille-pasta-1af-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzI0eDUxMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="510" width="724" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412172018-02-25T03:10:16-05:002020-01-21T19:17:57-05:00I. Made. Smoky. Bacon.
<p> </p>
<p>OK, I’ll admit my obsession is not unique.</p>
<p><em>LOTS</em> of people are addicted to bacon...</p>
<p>Meaty, salty, fatty, smoky... makes complete sense, right?</p>
<p>A strange confluence drove me to take my obsession one step further. Years ago, during one of the periodic clean-out/give-away events at the magazine, there was an indoor smoker. Boy, did I want it.</p>
<p>But in an uncharacteristically generous moment I didn’t just grab it. Not long after, there was a second round of giveaways... and it was still there. And still, I walked past it.</p>
<p>But third's the charm...</p>
<p>In the intervening years, I’ve smoked salt, paprika, cheese, fish, and chicken. And with great success, if I do say so myself. And I do.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/20343d18386ae9945dbce7a33b467969f2ca71cb/original/smoked-paprika-smoked-salt-1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTI4eDUzMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="530" width="528" /></p>
<p>Then, this Christmas, my friend Deb sent me a kit that included curing salt and a heavy plastic bag in which to cure pork belly.</p>
<p><em>AND THEN...</em></p>
<p>A guest chef in the test kitchen left behind a 4-pound pork belly, which was soon placed in my greedy hands by my adored colleagues.</p>
<p>I rushed home... peeled off the skin... rubbed in the cure... bagged the belly... and put it in the fridge... turned it once a day for 7 days...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/776cb740ac6b425e057380e4ed1ae8553263efda/original/smoked-pork-belly-1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDM1eDUwNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="505" width="435" /></p>
<p>And on the 7th day, I did not rest. I rinsed, dried, and let it sit in the fridge uncovered for 4 hours, then smoked it in my indoor smoker with hickory chips. And this morning, I froze it for about half an hour. So I could slice it easily...</p>
<p>Sliced it...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5ae7717d22f3ca66cc7bb10e3ae280cb02369911/original/bacon-slices-1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTExeDY4MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="682" width="511" /></p>
<p>And, Dear Reader, I must now confess: I have forever ruined store-bought bacon for myself.</p>
<p>This was a Bacon Fever Dream! I wanted to slice the rest and eat all 4 pounds.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/f4dc74be674145d7d50654318d8585a0e6202dc7/original/bacony-breakfast-1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjMxeDQzMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="433" width="631" /></p>
<p>Don’t worry, I didn’t.</p>
<p>But once I'd tasted it, seriously, there was no going back. Salt. Campfire. Actual pork flavor.</p>
<p>As they say... died and gone to heaven?</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412152018-02-15T13:20:29-05:002020-01-05T23:32:36-05:00Millionaire's Risotto
<p> </p>
<p>This is just a quickie, folks. But, oh boy, what a quickie!</p>
<p>I had the opportunity to bring home a few tablespoons of <em>foie gras</em> from the test kitchen. Not really enough to do anything... right?</p>
<p><em>WRONG!</em></p>
<p>I decided on an experiment. (Experiment? Moi??)</p>
<p>First I made my most basic risotto...</p>
<p><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/perfect_risotto_at_home_with_chicken_and_tarragon/</em></p>
<p>When it was time to add the wine, I did... but I also added a splash each of sherry and brandy, wines that pair beautifully with... you guessed it... <em>foie!</em></p>
<p>My homemade chicken stock is unsalted, so, instead of regular kosher salt, I added a pinch of my homemade porcini salt and lots of black pepper.</p>
<p>And then... at the moment when I would normally <em>mantecare</em> with butter... I substituted a heaping tablespoon of the <em>foie gras</em>. And, as I’d hoped, it immediately melted into the risotto. The aroma was so glorious I just started laughing like a crazy person.</p>
<p>Hot bowls, Parmigiano, a shower of parsley...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/cb2eff8be8117765ae32adaad8f7eef7b05f6aaa/original/milionaire-s-risotto-final.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzA3eDQ4NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="484" width="707" /></p>
<p>This was just ridiculously wonderful, and we kept laughing all the way through dinner.</p>
<p>Happy Valentine's Day indeed!!!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412142018-02-12T12:12:56-05:002020-01-05T23:32:36-05:00Hooray for Love Indeed!
<p> </p>
<p>Valentine's Day... Can't live with it, can't live without it!</p>
<p>I'm a big believer in staying home with, and cooking for, the one you love.</p>
<p>This year, I hope you'll check out the delectable recipes I created for Rachael Ray's <em>Every Day..</em>.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/39e090eef422a333cfdf24699cfe9ecf7d50a828/original/valentine-s-issue-every-day-with-rachael-ray-cover2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDYyeDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="462" /></p>
<p>Just click on the <em>Articles</em> tab on the left side of this page, where you'll find a link to the article and all the recipes...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/74ad2d915512dbcae19b5fd56dfb7b93f23f4f1b/original/valentine-s-issue-every-day-with-rachael-ray-page-1a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDYyeDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="462" /></p>
<p>I love these recipes, but please don't blame me for the names given to them...</p>
<p>And Happy Valentine's Day!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412132018-02-02T06:30:55-05:002020-01-05T23:32:36-05:00For Your Consideration: Super Bean-y Bowls!
<p> </p>
<p>I realize, Dear Reader, that you run the risk of being openly mocked if your Super Bowl offerings are too culinarily high-toned. But please consider the following recipes, in the spirit of feeding lots of people really tasty (and simple!) food that may even offer some (shudder) nutrition... And of course, they're even better the second day!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="text-decoration:underline">Truly Excellent Red Bean & Chorizo Dip</span></strong></p>
<p>This fabulous dip of mine was once rejected by a major magazine for being too chunky! We love it, though, and so will your guests: red beans, a little sour cream, some garlic, a bit of water or stock, a little smoked paprika, a pinch of cayenne or a few shots of hot sauce, salt, lemon/lime juice. Process/fold in minced chorizo and chopped scallions... Yes, it's very thick and kinda... pink... but boy is it good. A LOT better than the smooth stuff in the can!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/aceab0df4fd3b2e632a992f8f3ab373c98081146/original/red-bean-dip-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTc3eDQ2OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="468" width="577" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong><span style="text-decoration:underline">Black Bean Chili</span></strong></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">I am about to do some serious debunking...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">You heard me! De-Bunking!</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">It was 4 o'clock on a Saturday afternoon. I really wanted to make a vegetarian black bean chili, but alas...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">No soaked beans. No canned beans. Just two (2) bags of dried ones. Staring at me. With disapproval.</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1"><em>Why didn't you plan ahead and soak us?, </em>they sneered. Those beany sneers egged me on, forced me to do something unheard of: I would cook dried, unsoaked black beans!</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">The Horror! The Heresy!</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">I figured that if they didn't soften fast enough, I could finish cooking them, make something else for dinner, and use the beans another day. And... edging even further down the road of Foodie Disobedience...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">I salted the water!</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">In for a penny...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">While these Rogue Beans simmered away, I made the rest of the chili in another pan. I sautéed chopped onions, celery, carrots, garlic, and some dragon cayennes from the yard, along with smoked salt, black pepper, chili powder, dried oregano, and a can of tomatoes.</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1"> This was so good I thought we might eat it even if the beans failed... As, of course, I knew they would... right? Don't "they" all say <em>Soak Soak Soak... Never Salt At The Beginning</em>, etc.?<br></span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Guess what? Within 2 hours, the beans were perfect. I added 4 cups of the beans to the chili mixture, let that simmer for a bit, corrected the seasoning...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Filled hot bowls... Grated some cheddar... Spooned on some sour cream... Sprinkled with scallions...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">And... In A LOT less than 3 hours start-to-service...</span></p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><span class="s1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/142fdd93ce108f764393d427ae805e0841a87c26/original/black-bean-chili-1-final-a-1.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTg2eDQzOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="439" width="586" /><br></span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Gorgeous chili on the table. And once we stirred this smoky, creamy, beany, cheesy, crunchy, oniony, tomato-y melange together, it was as lusciously rich and satisfying as I'd hoped!</span></p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><span class="s1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a8df1265f91d292df03733bfd06110a4ceaff089/original/black-bean-chili-2-final.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTc3eDQzMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="433" width="577" /><br></span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Take that, Old Wives' Tales!</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Take that, Food Police Rules!</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">And, I have two containers of wonderful cooked black beans in the fridge...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Just waiting to become...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Something wonderful!</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1"><br></span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration:underline"><strong>Tuscan Beans!</strong></span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration:underline"><strong>(Baked Cannellini Beans with Sage, Prosciutto and Tuna)</strong></span></p>
<p>OK, so shoot me, these are not your mama's baked beans, but...</p>
<p>I like many things.</p>
<p>Hyperbole is one of those things.</p>
<p>However, having admitted that...</p>
<p>Giuliano Bugialli's Tuscan beans with tuna and pancetta may be my favorite meal in the whole world.</p>
<p>Yes.</p>
<p>I've played around with the recipe a bit, but the basics are his... and ever amazing.</p>
<p>I make a double recipe because these freeze very well. But I have to admit, there's not a lot left to freeze once I start wolfing this down!</p>
<p>Soak a pound of cannellini beans overnight. Drain and rinse them.</p>
<p>Preheat your oven to 400° and, in a large heavy pot (this is the moment to use Le Creuset if you have it), combine the beans, 4-5 cups water, a few big sprigs of sage from the garden, a lot of chopped garlic, 2-3t salt, and about 1/3 C EVOO.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/f160a7fcded1dab697ccd8338994eb4ce19b0798/original/soaking-cannellini-beans-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDQweDY0NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="646" width="440" /></p>
<p>One of my big variations comes now: instead of pancetta, I buy prosciutto ends from my butcher. These are too small for pretty slices, so they'll often sell you chunks for far less than the cost of regular prosciutto! I cut it up in small dice and add it to the pot...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/849bbdce6a7caf073627038f1abb5992c1f81d48/original/prosciutto-butt-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTQxeDQxNyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="417" width="541" /></p>
<p>Cover the pot and cook for 1 1/2 to 2 hours, stirring occasionally until the beans are tender. Remove the cover and simmer on the stove a bit more until it starts to thicken. Add some canned or bagged (worlds better!) tuna, some lemon juice or zest, and a ton of black pepper.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/7e9d7b4ec4a150464640bcfa9089fffd2954a18f/original/tuscan-beans-out-of-the-oven-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTk4eDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="598" /></p>
<p>With a good baguette, a hearty red...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5d38420706720870b00ec1bab9f352f131c5cde6/original/tuscan-beans-and-baguette-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6ODAweDQ5OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="498" width="800" /></p>
<p>This will send you to Tuscany for about 1/1,000,000th of the cost.</p>
<p>Well. Hyperbole is one of those things.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412112018-01-14T06:39:11-05:002020-01-05T23:32:36-05:00Curried Chicken with Forbidden Rice
<p> </p>
<p>I was really in the mood for Indian food. Maybe you know the feeling...</p>
<p>I had some chicken breast that needed to be cooked.</p>
<p>I wasn’t in a recipe-following mood, so...</p>
<p>I fried a minced onion. Once it started to brown, I added a ton of minced garlic and ginger, let it fry for a minute or two, added 1C (more or less) chicken stock, and then turned the heat down to low.</p>
<p>While that bubbled away, in another pan I started frying some spices in oil: my own curry powder, ground cumin, ground coriander, powdered galangal, cinnamon, cloves, red pepper flakes, salt, and black pepper. Once all of that became (quite!) fragrant, I added a can of good coconut milk... turned down the heat and let it bubble for 2-3 minutes...</p>
<p>Then I married these two gorgeous, aromatic concoctions... And let the whole beautiful blend continue to cook on low.</p>
<p>In a non-stick skillet, I fried some cubed potatoes until they were tender and golden and set them aside. In the same pan, I sautéed the chicken, which I’d cut into medium (1-inch) cubes, until almost cooked.</p>
<p>Then I turned everything off... because I’d gotten so excited about a curry dinner that I’d done all of this <em>hours</em> before dinner time! As we all know, any kind of “stew” is better reheated, so all was well.</p>
<p>When dinner time actually rolled around, I made the rice. Now if you’ve never had Forbidden or black rice, you really owe it to yourself to give it a try. It’s not forbidden any more, but back in the day only emperors were allowed to eat it. It's firmer and nuttier than brown rice with a very deep flavor. And a remarkable, almost purple, color.</p>
<p>For most rices, I prefer the pasta method: put the rice and salt in a pan with way too much water, bring it to the boil, turn the heat as low as you can, and let it all simmer - in this case, for about 30 minutes. Taste it, and when it’s ALMOST done, drain the water, replace the lid, and let it steam a bit (off heat). This method always works for me.</p>
<p>I added the potatoes and chicken to the sauce and gently re-heated the curry. I tasted for salt (it needed it!). A mound of glossy black rice on a hot white plate, topped with the golden, spicy curry and a dusting of ground toasted cumin seeds...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/e8733a0fd95b2639bf4f1e19940cee56a0607315/original/curried-chicken-and-forbidden-rice-2-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzgyeDU4NyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="587" width="782" /></p>
<p>All’s right with the world.</p>
<p>OK. That’s not entirely true.</p>
<p>But all’s right with this dinner!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412102017-12-31T04:50:11-05:002020-01-21T19:17:53-05:00Southern "Must Have" New Year's Day Feasts! (Homemade Sausage Biscuits, Black-eyed Peas 'n' Greens with Habanero Sauce and, of course, Harriet's Cornbread)
<p> </p>
<p>As you all know, I not only spend my life with someone from the South, but this has led to my spending a great deal of my life there. On New Year's Day, I am therefore contractually bound to produce food that includes pork, black-eyed peas, and greens... with cornbread as an accompaniment (though not a "the world will end without it" requirement like the other three).</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/684564aee6bd79027b5c2a71cbc8aa288f796c6f/original/new-year-s-2016-harriet-s-cornbread-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDczeDMxNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="314" width="473" /></p>
<p>Over the years I have modified the various ways I accomplish these... hot Italian sausage being a favorite. But this year, I went even further and split the three Good Luck Foods into two meals. My high priest of all things Southern assures me we will still have silver, greenbacks, and luck, even if the pork is breakfast and the greens and black-eyed peas are dinner.</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration:underline">PART 1 (Breakfast)</span></p>
<p>I made a batch of biscuits. With lard. No arguing! Butter goes on, not in. Period. And Crisco is disgusting.<em>..</em> Here's my biscuit recipe... You will love these!</p>
<p><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/everything_you_need_to_know_about_biscuits/</em><br><em> </em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/40ffc162afdbede908ab160b8e6a79b1b33e26fb/original/new-year-s-biscuits-2016-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDg5eDM1MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="353" width="489" /></p>
<p>I thawed a batch of my homemade sage and red pepper breakfast sausage and fried up some patties... <em>(Now get off your butt and buy some Boston butt!)</em></p>
<p><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/sausage_and_the_law/</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/e1ea9af3a00dc651d2fcf57bf18fdf03b23e6683/original/sausage-biscuits-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDk2eDM5NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="395" width="496" /></p>
<p>One of my all-time favorite combos... sausage biscuits.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/2b27a64f8701d1b0cde240dd05c6760b9ce484d7/original/sausage-biscuits-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDk4eDM4MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="382" width="498" /></p>
<p>And... One Required Food crossed off the day's list... Deliciously.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration:underline">PART 2 (8 Hours Later)</span></p>
<p>During the year, whenever I have garden greens of any type (spinach, kale, collards, arugula, etc.) starting to go, I sauté them briefly and freeze them. That way, when I make a "mess o' greens," they're remarkably complex because of the multiple types. Generally, I sauté an onion, maybe some garlic... toss in the frozen greens... a bit of water or stock if I think it needs it... a hambone or smoked hock... or, lately, just season with my homemade smoked salt and or paprika. At the end a splash of vinegar never hurts. This year, we seasoned the greens with a little of my homemade habanero sauce to help kick us into the new year!</p>
<p>The recipe for the black-eyed peas is almost the same. And no, they don't need soaking.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/010a3fea883402fbdee1efb7e60f9ed202625119/original/new-year-s-2016-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjgyeDUxOCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="518" width="682" /></p>
<p>For more details, including the recipe for Harriet's perfect cornbread, check out last year's post!<br><br><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/new_years_day__greens_blackeyed_peas_sausage_and_corn_bread/" data-imported="1">http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/new_years_day__greens_blackeyed_peas_sausage_and_corn_bread/</a></p>
<p>Happy New Year!</p>
<p> </p>
<p><em>(Originally posted on January 5, 2016, and updated today)</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412092017-12-20T04:22:25-05:002020-01-05T23:32:35-05:00Christmas Cookies Redux! (Melting Moments!)
<p> </p>
<p>Mother's other "famous" Christmas cookie contribution was the "Melting Moment."</p>
<p>I know these are seriously out of fashion... but I don't care...</p>
<p>The texture is sooooooooo different from most cookies... because of the cornstarch. But it's the very, very lemony glaze that's the game changer.</p>
<p>Try them... and let me know.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/37fa5e02c485c31871594c9e75aa214a9106bb32/original/melting-moments.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTI5eDMyNyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="327" width="529" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Melting Moments</strong></p>
<p>Cream:</p>
<p>⅔ C Cornstarch</p>
<p>½ C 10X Sugar</p>
<p>1 C AP Flour</p>
<p>1 C Unsalted butter</p>
<p>Roll into balls. Chill or freeze. Bake at 325° for 15 minutes.</p>
<p>When thoroughly cooled, glaze with a smooth mixture of</p>
<p>⅛ C Unsalted butter</p>
<p>1 Cup 10X Sugar</p>
<p>2 T Fresh lemon juice</p>
<p> </p>
<p><em>(Originally posted on December 18, 2012)</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412082017-12-20T04:18:47-05:002020-01-05T23:32:35-05:00Christmas Cookies Redux! (Shortbread!)
<p style="text-align: center;"> </p>
<p>Shortbread.</p>
<p>I have always been helpless when confronted with a plate of shortbread...</p>
<p>And these have forever replaced decorated sugar cookies in my affections.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/59515450439b18a09ac666dc49bce4b69bb99d45/original/shortbread-bites-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTc0eDM0NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="346" width="574" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Shortbread</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Yield: Approximately 50</strong></p>
<p>Cream:</p>
<p>1 lb. Unsalted butter</p>
<p>1 C Sugar (processed fine)</p>
<p>½ t Salt</p>
<p>3¾ C AP Flour</p>
<p>¼ C Cornstarch</p>
<p>Roll and cut into “fingers” approximately 1 inch wide and 2½ inches long.</p>
<p>Prick with a fork 3 times, chill until firm (or freeze).</p>
<p>Bake at 275° for 30 to 40 minutes, turning once.</p>
<p>Don’t allow shortbreads to brown!</p>
<p> </p>
<p><em>(Originally posted on December 18, 2012)</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412072017-12-18T14:08:29-05:002020-01-05T23:32:35-05:00Christmas Cookies Redux! (Snowballs!)
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1">Forgive me.</p>
<p class="p1">The switch from "after Thanksgiving" foods to Christmas prep can induce whiplash...</p>
<p class="p1">And now it's almost mid-December!</p>
<p class="p1">So let's get going, people... Over the next few days, we'll be re-posting our greatest Christmas cookie hits.</p>
<p class="p1">You're welcome!</p>
<p class="p1">(And please let me know how yours turn out!)</p>
<p>First: Snowballs! My Mother's Own...</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/016d9fefe0b680c9237f4c4c72163f419a85229d/original/snowballs.png/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MTY0eDMwMCJd.png" class="size_orig justify_left border_" alt="" height="300" width="164" /></p>
<p>I grew up in Michigan and upstate New York (and I really mean "upstate..." as in Canadian border!! Not what we refer to now as "Upstate Manhattan..."), and Toronto...</p>
<p>So Christmas means snow. And I'm one of those people who LOVES SNOW... I'll shovel, I'll scrape, I'll do whatever it takes as long as I have snow.</p>
<p>But I realize that in many, many parts of the States... usually including Yonkers... snow and Christmas are now mutually exclusive. So other than snow... there are a few things guaranteed to... get me in the mood...</p>
<p>And the greatest of these is/are... COOKIES!</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Mother was a great Christmas cookie maker. And I will now reveal to the world her recipe for snowballs. Yes, I know... every culture has a version of nutty buttery cookies rolled in powdered sugar... I just happen to think these are the best...</p>
<p> </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/d862c6c785f46f918a83a4a128ec08a7facaa79d/original/snowballs.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzIyeDIwMiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="202" width="322" /></strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Snowballs</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Yield: 5-6 Dozen</strong></p>
<p>Cream:</p>
<p>1 C Unsalted butter</p>
<p>4 T 10X sugar</p>
<p>2 C AP flour</p>
<p>1 C Chopped pecans</p>
<p>2 t Pure vanilla</p>
<p>1 t Water</p>
<p>Roll into balls. Chill or freeze. Bake at 400° for 10 minutes.</p>
<p>When thoroughly cooled, roll carefully in 10X.</p>
<p><em>(Originally posted December 14, 2013)</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412062017-12-18T13:55:10-05:002020-01-05T23:32:35-05:00Christmas Cookies Redux! (Chocolate Shortbread!)
<p> </p>
<p>Stop What You're Doing and Make These!!!</p>
<p>Seriously. I love all the traditional Christmas cookies. But I'm telling you: make chocolate shortbread and bring those elves to their knees!</p>
<p>These come from Chef Extraordinaire Bob Chambers. You will never, I guarantee, eat another chocolate cookie without thinking about these chocolate shortbreads...</p>
<p>I recently worked with Bob on a very elaborate dinner party... and I have to tell you, his food is even better than I remembered!!!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8bd5b4332f56e6c0277508a9ad675eddddc5bc91/original/chocolate-shortbread-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDU1eDM3MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="372" width="455" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"> <strong>Chocolate Shortbread</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Yield: Approximately 80 (</strong><strong>Depending on Size of Cookie)</strong></p>
<p>Cream:</p>
<p>1 lb. Unsalted butter</p>
<p>1¼ C Sugar</p>
<p>4 t Pure vanilla</p>
<p>4 C AP flour</p>
<p>1¼ C Cocoa</p>
<p>1 t Salt</p>
<p>Chill. Roll approximately ⅜-inch thick on a sugared surface.</p>
<p>Cut into desired shapes. Prick each cookie with the tines of a fork. Chill, or freeze.</p>
<p>Bake at 275° for 40 minutes.</p>
<p><em>(Originally posted on December 27, 2012)</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412052017-12-17T00:33:34-05:002020-01-05T23:32:35-05:00Wild-Caught Tuna with White Wine, Olive Oil, Herbs and Lemon Zest on White Polenta
<h4>Sale on gorgeous wild-caught tuna.</h4>
<h4>Cold night.</h4>
<h4>Wishing we were in Italy.</h4>
<h4>Aha!!!</h4>
<h4>In a sauté pan, I placed EVOO, minced onions, and minced garlic... let that cook on low for a few minutes <em>(don’t brown the garlic)</em>. Then I added a handful of chopped rosemary, oregano, chives, and thyme <em>(any mix of herbs you like would be fine)</em> and a splash of white wine, and let it simmer until it had reduced just a bit.</h4>
<h4>Then I added smallish <em>(1-inch)</em> chunks of the tuna and cooked it until the tuna was almost but not quite cooked through <em>(I prefer tuna very pink in the center)</em>. I tasted for salt and pepper, decided it needed a bit of final seasoning, added a splash of lemon juice and the zest of that lemon, turned off the heat, and served it over soft white polenta...</h4>
<p><em> </em></p>
<h4><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/soft_polenta/</em></h4>
<h4>...with a drizzle of EVOO and a shower of minced parsley.</h4>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/23773e33e73b174cef28bf193b17a73fe24870e6/original/tuna-with-white-wine-olive-oil-herbs-lemon-zest-on-white-polenta-final.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzAzeDQxMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="413" width="703" /></p>
<h4>As soon as we tucked in to this meal, Italy seemed a lot closer! Buon appetito!</h4>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412042017-12-10T03:26:46-05:002020-01-21T19:17:51-05:00Pork Chops and Wild Rice with Mushroom Sauce and Zucchini
<p> </p>
<p>Yes. That’s the list. But it in no way fully describes last night's dining experience.</p>
<p>Big sale on pork chops... big, thick, gorgeous pork chops...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/477b99570c4466b670a0ce47a36e5540c9220b68/original/pork-chops-1-2-final.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjE0eDQ2MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="460" width="614" /></p>
<p>And last weekend, I'd splurged on wild rice at the restaurant supply store.</p>
<p>And I had two zucchini from the test kitchen.</p>
<p>I also had some mushroom sauce from a chicken schnitzel dinner a few days ago...</p>
<p>Onward!</p>
<p>Into a sauce pan, I poured 2 cups of water and added 1/3 C kosher salt, a pinch of sugar, 4 roughly chopped scallions, a few peppercorns, and a few sprigs of rosemary. I heated this mixture until the salt and sugar dissolved, then took it off the heat and added a few ice cubes to cool it down.</p>
<p>Once it was cool, I put it in a ziplock and added the two pork chops… sealed the bag… and put the bag in a bowl and the bowl in the fridge. This brine event went on for 4 hours (I flipped the bag every hour or so, but that’s not totally necessary). Half an hour or so before I was ready to cook those beautiful chops, I took them out, patted them dry, and let them warm up a bit.</p>
<p>While the chops came up to room temperature, I made the wild rice, using my preferred variation on the pasta method: I put some wild rice in a pan, added salt and way too much water, brought it to a boil, lowered the heat, and simmered until almost done. I always start checking at about 30 minutes, when the rice is almost ready but still a bit too firm. Then I drained the water and put the rice back in the pot… covered… and let it steam. To this I added some minced shallots that I’d sautéed in butter.</p>
<p>In case I haven’t told you about the mushroom sauce yet… Mmmmm…</p>
<p>I sautéed a few shallots in butter, added white wine and chicken stock and, after that cooked down a bit, added a heaping tablespoon of my duxelles…</p>
<p><em><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/duxelles_shroomapalooza_3/" data-imported="1">http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/duxelles_shroomapalooza_3/</a></em></p>
<p>When it all felt ready - a splash of brandy and another of cream - Wow! To make this into the sauce I wanted for the pork, I sautéed some garlic and finely minced rosemary and added them to the sauce…</p>
<p>Oh boy oh boy oh boy!!!!!</p>
<p>I diced the zucchini and minced some onions, sautéed the onions in EVOO until very soft but not brown, added the zucchini and cooked until BARELY soft. <em>(Please… Do <span style="text-decoration:underline">not</span> overcook zucchini! It turns a delicious vegetable into something watery and tasteless.)</em> Added salt and pepper.</p>
<p>Whilst doing all of this, I slowly preheated my trusty cast iron, raising the heat gradually until it was Scary Hot! A slick of EVOO… and in went the chops. Left them alone for 5 minutes… flipped… cooked another 5… then put them in a 350 oven for 10 minutes or so, until the temp was about 145. (Don’t worry, a little pink is just fine these days.)</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/1b9a4a24ac57479efa5b48f0cd4ddafc336bdb1b/original/pork-chops-2-2-final.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjYxeDQ5NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="496" width="661" /></p>
<p>I suggest letting the pork rest a bit while you make the zucchini, but timing meals is very personal. I’d just say that while you don’t want the veg to sit too long… the meat can!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/efa0108949455b7ec541a47b4471da9fc31f1c86/original/pork-chop-and-wild-rice-with-mushroom-sauce-and-zucchini-3.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjkyeDUxOCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="518" width="692" /></p>
<p>On very hot plates… a chop, some rice, some zucchini, and the mushroom garlic rosemary sauce draped over the meat…</p>
<p>You’re welcome!!!!!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412022017-11-26T02:31:40-05:002020-01-21T19:17:49-05:00Another Wonderful Thanksgiving!
<p>Hard to fathom, but another Thanksgiving has come and gone.</p>
<p>From a culinary perspective... what did we learn?</p>
<p>ҩ Spatchcocking the turkey is THE way to go: moist meat, crisp skin, and an 11-pound bird done in 80 minutes. Truly.</p>
<p>ҩ Make your gravy days ahead (make a stock from turkey parts instead of waiting to make it from the bird in the last hectic minutes before serving). You can even pour a bit of pan drippings in (if you feel the need to make yourself rush at the last minute). This year I added some duxelles and brandy... Oh my goodness!</p>
<p>ҩ You can peel and cut your potatoes (for mashed potatoes) early in the day. Just keep them covered with cold water.</p>
<p>ҩ Make your cranberry sauce (chutney in our case) early in the week.</p>
<p>ҩ Set the table the day before.</p>
<p>ҩ Always heat your plates.</p>
<p>ҩ If your vegetable can be reheated or finished cooking later (we had succotash) (with a little bacon), get the first part of the cooking done early.</p>
<p>ҩ Our "dressing" is old-fashioned sage-bread-celery-onion. Sautéed the celery and onions 2 days before... cubed and toasted the bread 2 days before (and by the way, <em>toast</em>, don't just let it get stale, really). Mix it early in the day, get it in the pan, keep it cold... cook partially while the oven is heating... then all you have to do is finish it while the cooked turkey rests.</p>
<p>ҩ This brings us to The One Thing No One Wants to Do: The turkey, lightly tented with foil, will stay REALLY hot for at least 30-40 minutes, if not more. So. REST YOUR TURKEY! It really makes a difference.</p>
<p>Most important...</p>
<p>Enjoy whatever meal you put on the table! Enjoy your loved ones! Enjoy every day!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/f055834f20fe369b38bb26d8ed6e219b2eb1e974/original/thanksgiving-2017-final.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTgzeDQzOCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="438" width="583" /></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">And to the treasured <em>This Old Chef</em> faithful...</p>
<p>I just want to let you know how thankful I am for all of you who read... consider... and cook from the blog. It means the world to me. And we’re determined to make it even better in 2018.</p>
<p>I know we’re in a world of horror at the moment, but we need always to remember that we have wonderful things to be thankful for...</p>
<p>Happy Thanksgiving!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61412012017-11-24T06:05:27-05:002020-01-05T23:32:35-05:00The Remains of the Day Redux! Silky & Elegant Risotto with Turkey!
<p> </p>
<p><span style="color:#003300"><strong><em><span style="text-decoration:underline">Turkey & Sage Risotto</span></em></strong></span></p>
<p>I love risotto. Period.</p>
<p>From my first taste YEARS ago, right up until today. But... I don't like the idea of risotto as a dumping ground. If you want to add things... there's a method. Therefore...</p>
<p>I had great turkey stock... I had beautifully cooked turkey breast... I had chopped onions... So...</p>
<p>I started as I would any risotto: I sautéed the onions in EVOO... added the Arborio rice and some chopped sage... added some white wine... and then began the gradual additions of hot turkey stock (augmented with a bit of hot water because the stock was VERY strong), and, at the last moment, I added diced turkey... then a large (2 T) piece of unsalted butter... turned off the heat and added Grana Padano.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/996b03568f822a68d40cbd89bab208cac5083658/original/turkey-risotto-with-sage-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTc2eDUzMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="533" width="576" /></p>
<p>This is comfort food to the Nth degree... and it in no way tasted like...</p>
<p>The dreaded... L WORD!!!</p>
<p><em>Originally posted on November 28, 2012</em></p>
<p><em><br></em></p>
<p><strong><span style="color:#003300"><span style="text-decoration:underline"><em>Turkey, Duxelles and Sage Risotto with White Truffle Oil</em></span></span></strong></p>
<p>Turkey Risotto... always one of my favorite dishes...</p>
<p>Though I am NOT a believer in the "dump anything in" school of risotto making!</p>
<p>Having said that, the idea of a turkey risotto with some sage and duxelles sounded pretty good, especially since I had some wonderful turkey stock on hand. </p>
<p>The duxelles should go in early, after the second or third addition of simmering stock. The sage can go in early as well... It's a hardy, hearty herb and it can withstand long cooking. But I have a little trick: I add some chopped sage early, and reserve some to toss in during the last few minutes. Try it... you'll see.</p>
<p>The turkey should go in only long enough to reheat... It is sooooo cooked already.</p>
<p>And because I have wonderful friends who give me amazing gifts, I finished this risotto off with a very, very tiny drizzle of white truffle oil. This is one case where less is indeed more.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/86cb47f237e343cae56cf07cad4f2da680575ddf/original/turkey-duxelles-risotto-with-white-truffle-oil-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDU0eDQxNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="414" width="454" /></p>
<p>Did it work? You bet! When the ingredients are good, and gently handled, the offerings after Thanksgiving can be "better than the original"!!!</p>
<p><em>Originally posted on December 7, 2013</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="color:#003300"><strong><em>Check out these links for refresher courses on making perfect risotto...</em></strong></span></p>
<p><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/perfect_risotto_at_home_with_chicken_and_tarragon/" data-imported="1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/perfect_risotto_at_home_with_chicken_and_tarragon/</em></a></p>
<p><em><span style="color:#003300"><strong>And duxelles</strong></span>... <span style="color:#000000">http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/duxelles_shroomapalooza_3/</span></em></p>
<p><em><br></em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411982017-11-22T04:59:20-05:002020-01-05T23:32:34-05:00Another Thanksgiving Throwback!
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/bb55436b47713390a3dc806e4569d4700d3cf189/original/turkeys-resized-cropped-userimage.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjIzeDE0NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_left border_" alt="" height="145" style="margin: 0px 10px; " width="223" /></p>
<div></div>
<div></div>
<div>OK, after a large number of questions, I must admit... the picture of the little boy gazing lustfully at the turkey is indeed This Old Chef! It was Thanksgiving at my parents' house in Detroit in... I'm guessing here... 1961 or '62... but my adoration of roast turkey hasn't changed a bit!!</div>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411972017-11-21T13:03:37-05:002020-01-05T23:32:34-05:00On Your Mark... Get Set... Spatchcock!
<p><em>Here's a great memory of my very first time roasting a spatchcocked turkey, and my case for spatchcocking <span style="text-decoration:underline">your</span> Thanksgiving turkey... Norman Rockwell was a painter, not a cook!</em></p>
<p>I know it looks like road kill but...</p>
<p>It's happened... I've drunk the Kool-Aid...</p>
<p>I will quite probably never cook a turkey any other way.</p>
<p>Yesterday <em>[Thanksgiving morning!]</em>, I spatchcocked the Thanksgiving turkey!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b854394d396ae006f20f040cefacc346a94b4dd8/original/spatchcocked-turkey-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mzc4eDI0OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="248" width="378" /></p>
<p>All that actually means is...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/2e5f5d0cb672c69f8a2e2e59c31a1cd7c849f0a1/original/turkey-s-backbone-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTA0eDM4NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="386" width="504" /></p>
<p>I cut out the backbone, then made a little slit on the membrane covering the keel bone, flipped the bird over, pushed down until I heard a fairly loud snap... and then roasted it on a cookie-cooling-type rack set in a sheet pan at 450 for 85-90 minutes.</p>
<p>And that, as they say, was that.</p>
<p>Crisp mahogany skin, juicy dark AND white meat... with no basting, no flipping, no nuthin'.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3d9af4e43ba1e74ba0b893fb804d0bcd79000149/original/out-of-the-oven-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTY3eDQwNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="405" width="567" /></p>
<p>Does it look like Norman Rockwell? Absolutely not. It looks a little more like Norman Rockwell ran it over with his car... but I've never been a fan of carving the bird in the dining room anyway.</p>
<p>We had mashed potatoes, peas, cranberry chutney, sage dressing using my homemade bread (seriously... it's as big a revelation as fresh sage), and quite possibly my finest gravy to date (partly because the base was my homemade chicken stock simmered with the neck, backbone, and giblets... except the liver).</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/7f9679d933ea38e129933d5593da44ac34b243af/original/thanksgiving-42-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjEyeDQ5NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="494" width="612" /></p>
<p>A wonderful evening by the fire... a 12-pound turkey cooked in 90 minutes... How lucky can you get!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3f14f8cfc5f1f2580e48e0cf9a7e693a96eacc53/original/thanksgiving-33-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTk4eDgwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="800" width="598" /></p>
<p> <em>Originally posted on November 29, 2014</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411962017-11-21T02:29:08-05:002020-01-05T23:32:34-05:00Thanksgiving Throwback!
<p> </p>
<p><em>Remembering a wonderful Thanksgiving from a few years ago...</em></p>
<p><em>I loved this part!</em></p>
<p>HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!</p>
<p>In honor of the Founding Father who wanted the turkey to be declared our national symbol because the eagle was a bird "not of good moral character..."</p>
<p>I thought you'd get a kick out of this shot of me as Ben Franklin in the Connecticut Rep production of Theresa Rebeck's <em>O Beautiful</em> directed by Joe Hanreddy...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/47806f6164790e1b617f320e42ef0caf5411a396/original/david-as-ben-franklin-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDAweDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="400" /></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><em>Originally posted November 22, 2012</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411952017-11-20T13:00:55-05:002020-01-05T23:32:34-05:00Taking Stock of Thanksgiving 2017
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="color:#454545">I cannot believe it's already Thanksgiving!</span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="color:#454545"><br></span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="color:#454545">My elderly parents warned me about time speeding up but, like every child, I didn't believe them.</span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="color:#454545"> Guess what. They win.</span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"> </span></span><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="color:#454545"> </span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="color:#454545">All of this is to say, here come tons of Thanksgiving posts from This Old Chef! Enjoy!</span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="color:#454545">And in this time of absolute horror, be truly thankful for everything you can be thankful for!!!</span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="color:#454545"><br></span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">Here are two posts, one that will speed things up on Thanksgiving Day... and another that will REALLY help in the days that follow!</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p><em><span style="color:#008000"><span style="text-decoration:underline">Turkey Stock, or Turkey Jello, If You Prefer</span></span></em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4d82b1439e77c7b1ea1b35e6d138c94b0acf98ac/original/turkey-jello-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzIzeDMwNyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="307" width="323" /></p>
<p>So, how do you manage to have enough "liquid" to make turkey gravy without making everyone wait... AND without making yourself crazy during the wild last minutes of preparing the Thanksgiving feast?</p>
<p>Simple... sometime during the week before the big day... or even the MONTH before... buy a few packages of turkey parts: drumsticks, wings, necks and backs (if you can get them) and a small package of ground dark meat...</p>
<p>Brown all of it well and make a stock with celery, onions, peppercorns, and the trimmings from a bunch of fresh sage. That way, you can chill it and remove all of the fat... and it's in the fridge waiting for you turn it into gravy.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c690455e45c7c3c4fffd01963d466330e0c243a2/original/thanksgiving-prep-3-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTAxeDQxNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="416" width="501" /></p>
<p>Or you can even make the gravy itself a day or two in advance. THEN, on the day, you can add a bit of the drippings, or use a bit of the stock you saved to deglaze the roasting pan... but the gravy itself will already be done!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/ebc5f515272f90fdacb2776b8778e6ba71c70a55/original/turkey-gravy-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzYxeDI4NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="285" width="361" /></p>
<p><em>Originally posted on November 30, 2012</em></p>
<p><em><span style="color:#008000"><span style="text-decoration:underline">The Remains of the Day: Turkey Stock</span></span></em> </p>
<p>You knew it had to happen... a 12-pound turkey... two diners... There had to be some REMAINING turkey, right? I say "remaining" because I refuse to use The L Word!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/cc360d7896df9541edf582558d639997db5eab4b/original/the-turkey-2012-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mzk5eDMxMSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="311" width="399" /></p>
<p>So the first thing you do on Thanksgiving night: break up the carcass, and put it in a big stock pot with water and the trimmings from all of the onions, celery, garlic and herbs you saved as you were cooking earlier in the day...</p>
<p>Simmer this mess for about 2 hours, strain out the solids, and chill the stock. The next day, skim off the fat (which is perfectly useable... and tasty!)...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/87e115a5fe775d18ca158605362f6f3cede3f4bb/original/schmalzy-turkey-stock-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzU0eDI4OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="288" width="354" /></p>
<p>and you're left with a wonderful broth that's ready for soups, curries, moistening stuffing (i.e., dressing, if you're from my neck of the woods), and 100 other uses.</p>
<p><em>Originally posted on November 27, 2012</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411942017-11-18T07:00:00-05:002020-11-27T14:24:20-05:00Chicken ('n' Biscuits) Pot Pie<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">OK, not exactly chicken pot pie...</span></p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><span class="s1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3c068a3b4ff6b79c1bb8334b2ab88a7d7b6aa928/original/chicken-n-biscuits-pot-pie-2-3.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjEzeDQ2MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="460" width="613" /></span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">But the biscuit topping pretty much banishes memories of a pastry crust.</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">And wow! Is it easy!<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Using butter instead of lard, and adding plenty of black pepper and minced chives, I made my usual biscuits... click below for the recipe...</span></p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><a contents="" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/everything-you-need-to-know-about-biscuits" target="_blank"><span class="s1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/2ae251192c15b67e66598a3b88939a2791b9b080/original/homemade-black-pepper-and-chive-biscuits-3.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjE0eDQ2MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="460" width="614" /></span></a></p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><a contents="Everything You Need to Know about Biscuits" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/everything-you-need-to-know-about-biscuits" style="" target="_blank">Everything You Need to Know about Biscuits</a></p>
<p class="p1">...and reserved a few cut-but-unbaked biscuits for topping this delicious filling:</p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">I gently sautéed some celery, onions, and carrots... all diced. I chopped up some cooked chicken from dinner a few days earlier and threw it in the pan just to take the chill off. Then I made a light velouté (essentially a béchamel made with stock) with chicken fat, flour, salt and pepper. I added a little thyme from the garden and some frozen peas, poured this mixture into a baking dish, topped it all with the raw biscuits... and baked it in a pre-heated 450 oven for about 12 minutes (until the biscuits were done and the filling had started to bubble).</span></p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><span class="s1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/7b20fe9b269087e2365aa721cc32d32a4e03e3dc/original/chicken-n-biscuits-pot-pie-1-3.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjMweDQ3MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="473" width="630" /></span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">This is comfort food on steroids! And virtually hassle free! This would work equally well with other poultry, of course... maybe you have a bit of... Turkey!</span></p>
<p class="p1"> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411932017-11-08T07:56:12-05:002020-01-05T23:32:34-05:00Black Sea Bass with Tomato, Caper and Pesto Sauce on Buttered White Rice
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Black Sea Bass...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">NOT an ingredient I usually have hanging around the house! But I was lucky enough to bring a piece home from the test kitchen the other day, and wanted to treat this gorgeous fish the way it deserved to be treated. So simple seemed the way to go...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">In a sauté pan, I tossed some onions with EVOO... sizzled for a few minutes...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Added 1T rinsed (salt-packed) capers (if you use brined capers, drain and rinse them before adding)...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Along with some halved cherry tomatoes from the garden...<br></span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">While the tomatoes were cooking, I started quickly sautéing the fish with just salt, pepper and EVOO. <em>(Resist the temptation to overcook... just 2-3 minutes per side is enough unless it's unnaturally thick.)</em></span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Back to the sauce: as soon as the tomatoes started to collapse, I added a heaping tablespoon of pesto and turned off the heat.</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">On a very hot plate, I placed a scoop of rice... the gorgeous fish... and napped it with the tomato-caper-pesto sauce and a sprinkling of parsley... et voilà!</span></p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><span class="s1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/671e17b9b39a19617b238aa0a9c06ae750f6f1db/original/black-sea-bass-with-tomato-caper-pesto-sauce-and-buttered-white-rice.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjE1eDQ2MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="460" width="615" /><br></span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">A flavorful sauce that did not mask the wonderful taste of the fish. A dish so rich that the small piece of bass I brought home was plenty for the two of us!</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1"><br></span></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411912017-10-28T12:47:52-04:002020-01-05T23:32:34-05:00Shallots & Butter
<p>I know it's simple.</p>
<p>I know it's plain.</p>
<p>My favorite smell in the whole world?</p>
<p>Minced shallots sautéing in unsalted butter.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/07a4fb005dc491b1b7846e8fd8dd6366942d344f/original/butter-and-shallots-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTQyeDcyMSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="721" width="542" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411902017-10-21T14:00:08-04:002020-01-05T23:32:34-05:00Black Bean Chili
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">I am about to do some serious debunking...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">You heard me! De-Bunking!</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">It was 4 o'clock on a Saturday afternoon. I really wanted to make a vegetarian black bean chili, but alas...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">No soaked beans. No canned beans. Just two (2) bags of dried ones. Staring at me. With disapproval.</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1"><em>Why didn't you plan ahead and soak us?, </em>they sneered. Those beany sneers egged me on, forced me to do something unheard of: I would cook dried, unsoaked black beans!</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">The Horror! The Heresy!</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">I figured that if they didn't soften fast enough, I could finish cooking them, make something else for dinner, and use the beans another day. And... edging even further down the road of Foodie Disobedience...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">I salted the water!</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">In for a penny...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">While these Rogue Beans simmered away, I made the rest of the chili in another pan. I sautéed chopped onions, celery, carrots, garlic, and some dragon cayennes from the yard, along with smoked salt, black pepper, chili powder, dried oregano, and a can of tomatoes.</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1"> This was so good I thought we might eat it even if the beans failed... As, of course, I knew they would... right? Don't "they" all say <em>Soak Soak Soak... Never Salt At The Beginning</em>, etc.?<br></span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Guess what? Within 2 hours, the beans were perfect. I added 4 cups of the beans to the chili mixture, let that simmer for a bit, corrected the seasoning...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Filled hot bowls... Grated some cheddar... Spooned on some sour cream... Sprinkled with scallions...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">And... In A LOT less than 3 hours start-to-service...</span></p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><span class="s1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/142fdd93ce108f764393d427ae805e0841a87c26/original/black-bean-chili-1-final-a-1.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTg2eDQzOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="439" width="586" /><br></span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Gorgeous chili on the table. And once we stirred this smoky, creamy, beany, cheesy, crunchy, oniony, tomato-y melange together, it was as lusciously rich and satisfying as I'd hoped!</span></p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><span class="s1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a8df1265f91d292df03733bfd06110a4ceaff089/original/black-bean-chili-2-final.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTc3eDQzMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="433" width="577" /><br></span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Take that, Old Wives' Tales!</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Take that, Food Police Rules!</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">And, I have two containers of wonderful cooked black beans in the fridge...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Just waiting to become...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Something wonderful!</span></p>
<p><br><br></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411892017-10-06T05:21:33-04:002020-01-05T23:32:34-05:00The Absolute Best Cherry Pie
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Please don't kill me when you realize...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1"> I'm talking about a pizza pie...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Smothered in some really flavorful black and red cherry tomatoes!</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Make your favorite pizza dough. Mine is...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/basic_pizza_dough/</em></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">While preheating the oven, I roasted about 30 cherry tomatoes. I started by tossing them into a very hot skillet, adding some EVOO, and then placing the skillet in the oven. When they started splitting, I took them out.</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">I also had an heirloom tomato, a Cherokee Purple, that needed to be used. So I chopped it up and sautéed it in a saucepan with 4-6 minced garlic cloves. I added some sage and a minced dragon cayenne from the garden.</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">When this was "saucy," I set it aside to cool.</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">To assemble the pie, I rolled and stretched the dough... covered it with the sauce... scattered the split cherries... topped with some mozzarella and Parmigiano...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Baked it...</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">And when it came out... I scattered small or julienned basil leaves over the top.</span></p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><span class="s1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/f11051e79e5c6f89a6eba150f95f5f15bef2158c/original/roasted-cherry-tomato-pizza-1.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjYweDQ5NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="495" width="660" /><br></span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Trust me....this is the Margherita of your dreams!</span></p>
<p class="p1"><span class="s1">Remember to let it cool a bit. Those. Cherries. Are. Molten.</span></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411882017-09-19T06:06:02-04:002020-01-05T23:32:33-05:00Coulibiac! (Sautéed Tuna with Puff Pastry Rounds and Rice with A Mushroom Brandy Sauce, Sour Cream and Dill
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"> </p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;">Deconstructed Tuna <em>"Coulibiac"</em></p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><em><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/403f12b5c9fe2806a80aa57983cfbe87e9046610/original/coulibiac-9-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzMyeDQ0NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="444" width="332" /></em></p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;">No... seriously!</p>
<p class="p1">Bear with me. You know I don't usually employ cutesy foodie terms like "deconstructed."</p>
<p class="p1">I went home from the test kitchen with a treasure trove of ingredients: some chopped cremini mushrooms, some dill...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/943ff4e4594ac1f4b28fbc785e531b4d9c258d2a/original/coulibiac-3-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjkweDM3MSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="371" width="290" /></p>
<p>A small amount of perfect, gorgeous, sushi-grade tuna...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/05094ff0cfecb0f92925914836d043a2db60ea6a/original/coulibiac-4-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjkxeDM4NyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="387" width="291" /></p>
<p class="p1">And a few rounds of baked puff pastry...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/dea8685cba95dbc312147a917a4f78e0b6bdb517/original/coulibiac-5-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mjk2eDM5MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="390" width="296" /></p>
<p class="p1">As you can imagine, deciding how to combine these ingredients seemed challenging, to say the least.</p>
<p class="p1">And then my little brain exploded! I had a scathingly brilliant idea: Coulibiac!</p>
<p class="p1">And just what the hell is <em>coulibiac,</em> you ask? A very elaborate Russian fish "pie" that involves layering puff pastry with cooked rice, salmon, mushrooms, and dill... then covering it with more puff pastry, and baking.</p>
<p class="p1">Did I mention I had some cooked rice in the fridge???</p>
<p class="p1">This is just the sort of game I love playing. Challenging. Fun.</p>
<p class="p1">Let the games begin!</p>
<p>I chopped the mushrooms even more finely... probably about 1C worth... and began to sauté them in EVOO and butter...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/e7a14c3500da337511749dc34fbd6b436fb36df8/original/coulibiac-1-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzEyeDQxNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="414" width="312" /></p>
<p>In a separate pan, I cooked about 3/4 C minced onions until soft...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/630a512886f6707395e50be01998dca3b1a9b48c/original/coulibiac-2-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzA0eDM4MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="380" width="304" /></p>
<p>... then added the mushrooms, which were now softening and starting to brown... added salt and pepper, splashed in some brandy and white wine, reduced it, set 1/2 of the mixture aside (as the mushroom component), continued cooking the remaining half with more minced onion, then added cream... This would become the sauce.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/cefe7b96e3e2358fd9cafa37633acd3737024afd/original/coulibiac-6-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDU4eDYxMSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="611" width="458" /></p>
<p class="p1">I sautéed the two small pieces of tuna until barely cooked. Warmed the puff pastry rounds in the oven (along with serving plates). Nuked the cold rice. Reheated the sauce... turned it off... and stirred in chopped dill and sour cream.</p>
<p class="p1">Assembly: Plate. Puff round. Rice. Tuna. Mushroom. Puff round. Sauce. Dill!!!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/6aeae72e5557e79ae3ca47d4ed4f15f0792f9a7b/original/coulibiac-7-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzI4eDU0NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="546" width="728" /></p>
<p class="p1">Absolutely over the top, absolutely delicious!</p>
<p class="p1">And all because I had some stuff in the fridge, was given some great ingredients (in amounts too small to be dinner on their own), read cookbooks like most people read novels...</p>
<p class="p1">And I was willing to play with my food.</p>
<p class="p1">I admit, hardly anyone receives the "extras" that I get. But if you're willing, think outside the box... If you see gorgeous tuna for sale, realize that you don't need pounds of it to make a meal. If you have some sad mushrooms you have to use fast, make a sauce. Dill about to turn black? Pick out the good stuff rather than tossing it all away. As for already baked puff pastry rounds... Sorry, you're on your own!</p>
<p class="p1">Was this a meal we'd eat every day? Nope, not even if we had daily access to the ingredients. This meal was very rich, very very old-fashioned, very filling (like <em>Thanksgiving</em> filling)! But wow, was it fun! And yes, we sat at table for hours, talking...</p>
<p class="p1">The mark of a successful meal.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411872017-09-16T14:03:18-04:002020-01-05T23:32:33-05:00Bonanza! (Filet Mignon in a Brandy and Shallot Cream Sauce with Cracked Black Pepper, Sauteed Potatoes in Truffle Oil, and Seared Squash
<p class="p1">The test kitchen is a remarkable place. For many reasons. One, of course, is getting to bring home "ingredients," both raw and already prepared, waiting to be "re-purposed."</p>
<p class="p1">Yesterday was one of those bonanza days. We had potatoes and summer squash... raw, but sliced, oiled, salted and peppered. So these were the sides. I flashed the squash over very high heat to sear them without allowing them to turn to mush, as squash and zucchini are wont to do.</p>
<p class="p1">I cubed the potatoes and sautéed them until golden and tossed them with some truffle oil. Yes, truffle oil.</p>
<p class="p1">I began to build a sauce: minced and sautéed 2 shallots, added A LOT of very coarsely cracked pepper... tossed in a good shot of brandy... let it reduce... added heavy cream... lowered the heat, and simmered.</p>
<p class="p1">And now, Dear Reader, we come to the reason for all of this prep... on a Thursday.</p>
<p class="p1">We needed filet. Four (4!) picture-perfect pieces of Beef Perfection. Unwrapping them, we discovered that our local, very famous emporium of high-priced healthy comestibles had given us four misshapen, badly butchered pieces instead.</p>
<p class="p1">So I ran out to buy four more. These were indeed perfect... beautiful, equal weight and size, pretty as a picture. I got to take two of the "ugly" ones home. Ugly? Yes. But still...</p>
<p class="p1">I salted, heavily peppered, and EVOO'd them. In a frighteningly hot cast iron pan, I seared them for about 3 minutes per side. Sauced them. Added the sides. Sprinkled them with parsley.</p>
<p class="p1">This was old school, after all. Opened up a delicious Zin, also from the magazine...</p>
<p class="p1">And we pretended this random Thursday was February 14 and December 25 rolled into one.</p>
<p class="p1">Oh Joy, O Bliss... And I'm not even that much of a meat eater!!! Except today...</p>
<p class="p1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/f1d7df598473f8a29fbbf6421cdb9ba097b497f9/original/filet-mignon-shallots-cream-truffle-tots-sauteed-squash-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjQweDQ4MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="480" width="640" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411862017-09-04T03:05:04-04:002020-01-05T23:32:33-05:00Seared Salmon with Herbed Cauliflower Rice
<p class="p1">I had a few small pieces of some gorgeous salmon demanding to be cooked. And a head of cauliflower in the same state... Hmmmmm.</p>
<p>I love salmon with rice.</p>
<p class="p1">I love cauliflower rice.</p>
<p class="p1">Ergo...</p>
<p class="p1">I washed, trimmed, and cut the cauliflower into medium pieces and then "riced" it in the processor with just a few pulses (until it looks like rice!). I heated a bit of EVOO in a non-stick pan, added the cauliflower, and sautéed it on fairly high heat until it just started to brown a bit. I turned off the heat, added a piece of butter, some salt and pepper, and a generous handful of chopped soft herbs from the yard.</p>
<p class="p1">Knowing how fast salmon reaches our preferred doneness, I knew the rice would still be warm.</p>
<p class="p1">In another non-stick pan, I heated a bit of oil and butter... added the salmon... drizzled a tiny bit of soy sauce on the top... sautéed for no more than 1 1/2 minutes... flipped it... sautéed for another minute <em>(we like it almost, but not quite, raw in the center)</em>... and served it on hot plates atop the cauliflower rice.</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/05e35ab3ca0a92fe5e3fb6dd402b8bfe0eee7747/original/seared-salmon-with-cauliflower-rice-002-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjM0eDQ3NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="476" width="634" /></p>
<p class="p1">This turned not quite enough salmon into more than large enough portions for a wonderful dinner that was way more than the sum of its parts!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411852017-08-19T05:32:32-04:002020-01-05T23:32:33-05:00Basil
<p class="p1">Not a real post, just a quick reminder...</p>
<p class="p1">The more you (correctly) prune basil... the more it grows!</p>
<p class="p1">Three weeks ago, I harvested, and made about 10 CUPS of pesto (just basil and EVOO. The garlic, Parmigiano, and nuts go in fresh each time I use some).</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/02fd0fa8e84163347c3dbfa955c5b39d3aee334d/original/basil-2017-one-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDgweDY0MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="640" width="480" /></p>
<p class="p1">Today, I harvested again. There was even more basil, and I'm estimating at least 12-14 cups of pesto. And as it's still August, there should be at least two more harvests.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/12555e8e970e4325414b18693ba5da3e6f0caf5c/original/basil-2017-two-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AW10%3D.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" /></p>
<p class="p1">So, seriously, trust me: multiple harvests... multiple pesto productions.</p>
<p class="p1">And remember to clear space in your freezer!!!</p>
<p><br> <br></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411842017-08-17T03:09:55-04:002020-01-05T23:32:33-05:00Two! Two! Two Pizzas in One!
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1">My go-to pizza dough...</p>
<p class="p1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/basic_pizza_dough/</em></p>
<p class="p1">...makes enough dough for two pizzas.</p>
<p class="p1">Yes, I could halve the recipe.</p>
<p class="p1">Yes, I could (and often do) freeze half.</p>
<p class="p1">But sometimes, I need to pamper the two of us.</p>
<p class="p1">It had been a tough few weeks. So it was PAMPER TIME!</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/558a468bd276116f301b8140a3e9bdfc622db29f/original/pepperoni-pizza-1-2-002-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjQzeDQ4MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="482" width="643" /></p>
<p class="p1">On Sunday, I made my old-fashioned dorm pizza: pepperoni, red sauce, mozzarella, Parmigiano, and the requisite DRIED oregano...</p>
<p class="p1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/late_night_dorm_room_munchies_pizza/</em></p>
<p class="p1">(Seriously, though I am pretty religious about fresh herbs, this pizza requires dried!!)</p>
<p class="p1">This time, there was an extra added fillip. My red sauce was very different... I used leeks instead of onions, fresh homegrown dragon cayenne peppers instead of red pepper flakes, and lots of celery leaves and celery pieces I had in the fridge. It was amazing and spicy. So the final product was waaaaay above dorm. Delicious!</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/1ab05b734975fde6b844b4ed9f98454ccdae395c/original/pepperoni-pizza-2-2-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjU5eDQ5NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="494" width="659" /></p>
<p class="p1">Tuesday night, I decided that I had either to freeze the remaining dough or... Something. The Something turned out to be one of our all-time favorites since an epiphany I once had while performing in Asheville, NC... A white pizza...</p>
<p class="p1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/pizza_epiphany_white_pizza/</em></p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/f621b4e93823a8969cf7b320fc6a771c73d9d359/original/white-pizza-1-2-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjUyeDQ4OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="488" width="652" /></p>
<p class="p1">On the stretched dough, I spread a mixture of TONS of gently, barely sautéed garlic (no browning!!) mixed with about a cup of minced fresh herbs... parsley, tarragon, basil, thyme, and sage. And a bit of fresh EVOO and red pepper flakes. Over the top, I scattered diced mozzarella and grated Parmigiano.</p>
<p class="p1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/386d8e690c6ebf184b97d6effdef8f690d08b957/original/white-pizza-2-2-002-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjY2eDQ5OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="499" width="666" /></p>
<p class="p1">One dough. Many similar ingredients. Two totally different tastes.</p>
<p class="p1">Two really happy diners.</p>
<p><br> <br></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411832017-08-06T04:10:01-04:002020-01-21T19:17:38-05:00Just for the (Alaskan) Halibut, with Melted Leek and Tarragon Sauce, Wild Rice, and Cauliflower
<p class="p1">When you receive a perfect piece of first-of-the-season Alaskan halibut, you know you must build a very special dinner around it. It may not be specifically a special occasion, but a piece of fish like that makes it one!</p>
<p class="p1">I made a cup of wild rice... with leeks from the test kitchen.</p>
<p class="p1">I steamed some local cauliflower.</p>
<p class="p1">I took more of the chopped leeks and began "melting" them in butter. When they were soft, I added white wine and chicken stock... reduced that until almost dry... added heavy cream and tarragon... tasted for salt and pepper (it should have been white pepper, but I don't love that flavor)...</p>
<p class="p1">... et voilà... a perfect old-fashioned French-style sauce, filled with the lovely "hint of licorice" flavor of fresh tarragon and the unctuous mouth feel of cream and melted leeks.</p>
<p class="p1">While the sauce was simmering gently, I heated EVOO in a non-stick skillet, salted and peppered both sides of the fish (now cut into two equal-sized pieces), and sautéed the fish for about three minutes a side until gorgeous and brown.</p>
<p class="p1">Simply plated, with more tarragon scattered around. A glass of cool, crisp white wine.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/735aa3bbe920c9f71f352d974f9e3ab973a88b7c/original/alaskan-halibut-with-melted-leek-and-tarragon-sauce-forbidden-rice-and-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjMyeDQ3NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="474" width="632" /></p>
<p class="p1">This was like a major holiday meal... on a random Sunday.</p>
<p class="p1">Halibut is no longer an everyday fish, but when you come into possession of a perfect fillet, it must be celebrated! Perfectly cooked snow white flesh... napped with a creamy tarragon-y sauce... the deep forest-like flavor of wild rice... the delicious but blank-canvas taste of cauliflower...</p>
<p class="p1">I need to stop or I'll have to find a way to have the entire dinner again right now!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411822017-07-29T13:39:40-04:002020-01-05T23:32:32-05:00Beef Tenderloin & Broccoli Stirfry
<p class="p1">Not yo' mama's take out!</p>
<p class="p1">I came home from the test kitchen with 4 thin(ish) slices of beautiful roast tenderloin, and some scallions. I had broccoli in the fridge, along with some cooked rice. Time for some delicious homemade "Take Out"!</p>
<p class="p1">As with all stirfry, get your <em>mise en place</em> ready first:</p>
<p class="p1">I sliced about 6 scallions.</p>
<p class="p1">I stacked and sliced the tenderloin into thin strips.</p>
<p class="p1">I minced a lot of ginger and garlic.</p>
<p class="p1">I mixed 1T cornstarch with 1/2 C stock and a shot of soy sauce.</p>
<p class="p1">I blanched and shocked (in ice water) some broccoli florets.</p>
<p class="p1">Time to fry!</p>
<p class="p1">I heated some oil (not a lot) until shimmering... Added the drained, still crisp broccoli and fried for about three minutes... Added the ginger and garlic... Another minute...</p>
<p class="p1">Added 1/2 the scallions and then the stock mixture. Being cornstarch-based, it thickened immediately, so be watchful and be ready to add a bit of plain stock or water if need be.</p>
<p class="p1">Then I tossed in the beef... Just long enough to reheat it.</p>
<p class="p1">Tasted.</p>
<p class="p1">Added a splash of sesame oil... ladled it all over the hot rice... topped with more scallions and a few leaves of cilantro.</p>
<p class="p1">Take Out <em>never</em> tasted like this!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/07c95b4fcb90e7131e4f6eb3fe98fe4618da0e53/original/beef-tenderloin-broccoli-stirfry-2-002.jpg/!!/b%3AW10%3D.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411812017-07-21T02:38:40-04:002020-01-05T23:32:32-05:00Grain Bowl (Is That A Great, Inviting Name or What?!?!?)
<p class="p1">OK. Fine Awful name. But this really is one of my favorite ways to eat in the summer!</p>
<p class="p1">Make a few small batches of grains <em>(for this dinner, I made barley, forbidden rice, and white rice),</em> add some beans <em>(today's were black and garbanzo)</em>, mince a ton of fresh herbs from the garden <em>(parsley, tarragon, sage, basil, rosemary, chives). </em>Add some minced scallions. Add some veg <em>(chopped tomatoes, cucumbers, peas, asparagus, limas... pretty much anything you like)</em>.</p>
<p class="p1">Dress with a vinegary vinaigrette. Check for salt and pepper.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/47f50c0a4444583070d6b89b52aba994dcfa5e98/original/grain-bowl.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjMyeDQ3MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="473" width="632" /></p>
<p class="p1">Seriously... You won't miss meat. You won't feel deprived. You'll be eating a salad without feeling like you're only eating leaves. This can also skew Asian: Thai... Indian... or Mexican... Spanish... I'm serious!</p>
<p class="p1">I love these. And no two ever taste exactly the same. And they can happily sit in the fridge for a few days, for lunches and/or future dinners.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411792017-07-10T04:08:20-04:002020-01-05T23:32:32-05:00Thai Ground Pork with Chickpeas, Onion, Garlic, and Homemade Habanero Sauce on Basmati Rice
<p class="p1">I had a small bit of ground pork from the test kitchen.</p>
<p class="p1">I had chickpeas I'd cooked a few days ago.</p>
<p class="p1">Thai basil in the garden.</p>
<p class="p1">Homemade habanero hot sauce..</p>
<p class="p1">Onions and garlic and Thai green curry paste are always on hand.</p>
<p class="p1">Can you see where I'm going?</p>
<p class="p1">I sautéed a chopped onion. Then added the pork and sautéed until no longer pink. Then in went the chickpeas. Then I added chopped garlic, 1/3 C homemade chicken stock, 2 T great Thai green curry paste, a few dashes each of fish sauce and soy sauce, a splash of my habanero hot sauce <em>(http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/habaeros/)</em>, a pinch of brown sugar... and let all of this simmer away. When it tasted "ready," I added another splash of fish sauce.</p>
<p class="p1">On hot plates, I arranged a ring of rice, filled the middle with the pork mixture, scattered julienned Thai basil on the rice, and topped the whole thing with crushed peanuts and lime zest.</p>
<p class="p1">Wow. Not remotely authentic, but wildly flavorful... using all sorts of Thai ingredients and tastes.</p>
<p class="p1">We were very, very happy.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/871cabcbe325f8d43e5857ecb0acfe43b64fadcc/original/thai-ground-pork-with-chickpeas-1-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjE3eDQ2MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="462" width="617" /></p>
<p class="p1">PS. Proportions are not set in stone... that's why I hardly gave any!!! Play around. And even if something, like chickpeas, isn't really in the lexicon, and you want it... Try it!</p>
<p class="p1">I feel that way about lots of rules. If you want white wine with your steak... DO IT. If you want some cheese on your seafood pasta... DO IT. I wouldn't suggest fish sauce on ice cream, but... if you want it...</p>
<p class="p1">Get my drift?</p>
<p class="p1">PPS. We learned afterwards that there is no "ñ" in "habanero." Lo siento mucho.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411782017-07-01T04:25:00-04:002020-12-08T17:18:01-05:00Risotto with Sage, Prosciutto, and Fava Beans<p class="p1">HMart, to my great surprise, had gorgeous, fresh fava beans... at an incredible price!</p>
<p class="p1">Our garden is wall-to-wall sage.</p>
<p class="p1">And a trip to Arthur Avenue for EVOO yielded a luscious little bit of prosciutto <em>(as I'm sure I've told you, the prices at Teitel Brothers are shocking - Parmigiano and prosciutto cost about as much as grocery store cheddar!!)</em>.</p>
<p class="p1">We decided that a batch of risotto was the way to go, as long as it was a small batch rice-wise so that the fava/prosciutto blend could take the lead!</p>
<p class="p1">I made my basic risotto...</p>
<p class="p1"><a contents="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/perfect-risotto-at-home-with-chicken-and-tarragon" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/perfect-risotto-at-home-with-chicken-and-tarragon" target="_blank">https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/perfect-risotto-at-home-with-chicken-and-tarragon</a></p>
<p class="p1">... using just 3/4 C arborio. About 2 minutes before the rice was done, I added a bit of minced sage, strips of prosciutto, and my perfectly peeled favas. I turned off the heat... whipped in 1T butter and some Parmigiano... mounded it on hot plates... scattered chives over everything...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/864873290f51e38fd576a3b325657f751e2d36be/original/risotto-with-sage-prosciutto-and-favas-2-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Nzc2eDU4MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="582" width="776" /></p>
<p class="p1">And we sat down to enjoy those remarkable favas, a late spring treat that begs for overindulgence!</p>
<p class="p1">If you see them, buy them!</p>
<p class="p1">If you see them for a great price, buy <em>tons</em> of them!</p>
<p class="p1">Their season is short... <em>mangia!</em></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411772017-06-26T05:46:40-04:002020-01-21T19:17:35-05:00Chèvre. Homemade. Just Wait...
<p class="p1">Don't laugh.</p>
<p class="p1">It had been a really, and I mean REALLY, tough day. So what did I do? I made chèvre, of course.</p>
<p class="p1">Armed with two quarts of goat milk from <em>(sob)</em> the Test Kitchen, and rennet and mesophilic culture courtesy of the terrible twosome <em>(the Stenard sisters, Deb and Pam)</em> who went out of their way to go to the New England Cheesemaking Supply Co. for me...</p>
<p class="p1">I heated the goat milk to 78 degrees... sprinkled it with the culture... let it sit for 3 minutes... stirred carefully... added the rennet... stirred even more carefully... and then let it sit undisturbed for 16 hours.</p>
<p class="p1">The next morning, I carefully placed the now thickened yogurt-like mixture into a sieve lined with a warm tea towel <em>(here's where you use cheesecloth if you have it)</em> and started the draining process. I must confess, Dear Reader, I was a bit apprehensive because, when I make ricotta <em>(the cheese I make most often)</em> there are clearly curds and whey, while this looked like thick yogurt....</p>
<p class="p1">Yes, the recipe said it would look like thick yogurt, but I can be quite a skeptic.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/81e5244f6bfec2167b6d3f6a00359bd116556123/original/david-s-chevre-3-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Njg3eDUxNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="516" width="687" /></p>
<p class="p1">Anyway, about 1 hour into the 6-12 hour draining period, I took a look. Lo and behold... it had begun! So I decided to taste a bit. OMG... the real, clear, definite beginnings of a lovely fresh chèvre. </p>
<p class="p1">After letting it drain for 12 hours <em>(and boy, was it hard to wait 12 hours, but I did)</em>, I opened the draining towel...</p>
<p class="p1">And there it was: a surprisingly large mound of chèvre. I laid out some paper towels, placed the chèvre in a rough log shape, rolled it a bit to round out the shape a bit, closed the paper towels and rolled the whole thing in plastic wrap - just for the night, not to store - never store cheese in plastic!</p>
<p class="p1">This morning, I opened the package, and lo and behold... it was gorgeous! I changed the paper towels <em>(which were soaked)</em>. But before I refrigerated it again...</p>
<p class="p1">I tasted it.</p>
<p class="p1">Folks... just unbelievable... Lovely, fresh, smooth, well-flavored GOAT'S CHEESE!!!!!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/56f7df304951967963e3ca4ea840b653cdeaf6c5/original/david-s-chevre-2-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzkxeDU5MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="593" width="791" /></p>
<p class="p1">There are a few things in the kitchen that seem like alchemy, cause the cook to glow with pride, and seem impossible until - BOOM! - they happen.</p>
<p class="p1">Bread baking and cheese making.</p>
<p class="p1">So worth it. So smile-inducing.</p>
<p class="p1">So delicious.</p>
<p class="p1">This project really helped me live through quite a difficult day.</p>
<p class="p1">And at the end, I have this log of chèvre...</p>
<p class="p1">THAT I MADE!!!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411762017-06-18T12:48:51-04:002020-01-05T23:32:31-05:00Pasta with Homemade Sausage and Mustard Greens
<p class="p1"><em>"These mustard greens are way too strong. They're like wasabi. David... Do you want them?"</em></p>
<p class="p1">Some variation on that scene happens frequently in the test kitchen. And often results in some of my favorite meals. Case in point...</p>
<p>I shredded the mustard greens and blanched them for about 30 seconds <em>(they really were blow-your-head-off spicy!)</em>. Then they went into a sauté pan with some raw garlic and raw homemade sausage, salt and pepper, plus a bit of crushed red pepper flakes. I sautéed all this until the sausage was cooked, then added a splash of white wine, cooked that off, and added some cream. I combined this mixture with the almost cooked pasta... finished them together... and shaved some Parmesan over the top.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/db12c3c770b51c6fdba7023eca14b9d52f699522/original/pasta-with-homemade-sausage-and-mustard-greens-2-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTY3eDQyNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="425" width="567" /></p>
<p class="p1">Was this pasta for the faint of heart?</p>
<p class="p1">It was not.</p>
<p class="p1">Was it hot and spicy and creamy and sausagey and totally delicious?</p>
<p class="p1">It sure was!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411742017-05-29T13:24:21-04:002020-01-05T23:32:31-05:00Schweineschnitzel (Ja, Sicher, Lean Pork Schnitzel!) mit Brown Rice und Cabbage Salad
<p>There are times when one must confront one's fears.</p>
<p>Now I have always loved bacon, sausage, and various Asian preparations using ground pork. But solid slabs of pork - tenderloin, chops, roasts, et al. - have invariably caused a level of gastrointestinal distress that I'll refrain from describing to you...</p>
<p>But a sale of Stew's "naked" pork chops made me think it might, just might, be time to give it another try.</p>
<p class="p1">I took one fairly thin boneless chop, trimmed the fat, and butterflied it... then separated the two halves. I then pounded the two pieces fairly thin (next time, thinner!), and then followed my usual schnitzel procedure...</p>
<p class="p1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/schnitzel_redux_sandy_be_damned/</em></p>
<p class="p1">In the meantime, I melted some butter, added lemon zest and chopped capers, and set that aside. I melted a bit of butter in some EVOO, got it hot but not smoking, added the pork, cooked about 3 minutes a side... removed them... deglazed with a spash of white wine... then added the lemon caper butter.</p>
<p class="p1">I served the pork on hot plates, topped with the sauce, alongside brown rice and my grandmother's cabbage salad...</p>
<p class="p1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/cabbage_salad/</em></p>
<p class="p1">... along with some early season chives.</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a711364a455e5b6043ae5bcfbd25a9d63537ce72/original/schweineschnitzel-mit-brown-rice-und-cabbage-salad-3-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjY0eDQ5NyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="497" width="664" /></p>
<p class="p1">I'm happy to report that not only was it delicious, I had absolutely no... "distress..."</p>
<p class="p1">Maybe I've finally grown out of it!!!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411732017-05-22T15:24:50-04:002020-01-05T23:32:31-05:00Tortilla española con pollo, patatas, cebollas, romero y pimentón ahumado (Spanish Tortilla with Chicken, Potatoes, and Lots of Other Good Stuff)
<p class="p1">There was a chicken breast, thawed, demanding to be used.</p>
<p class="p1">There were diced potatoes.</p>
<p class="p1">And the garden had just started the spring herb overflow.</p>
<p class="p1">Tortilla time!</p>
<p class="p1">I diced and then sautéed the chicken until almost done. Then I sautéed the potatoes until crisp and brown. I minced and sautéed a small onion and a few cloves of garlic. I combined all of these ingredients in a bowl, mixed well, and added some finely minced rosemary (not too much), a pinch of smoked paprika, salt, pepper, and some thyme. I had the oven preset to 350.</p>
<p class="p1">I melted 1 T butter in a nonstick skillet, added the cooked ingredients and let them warm back up. In went 7 well-beaten eggs. Carefully, as for scrambled eggs, I stirred and lifted and shook <em>(the mixture... not me!)</em>. When it began to look set, I stopped stirring and placed the skillet in the oven. About every 1-2 minutes, I removed the pan and loosened the edges of the tortilla, then back in until it looked almost dry.</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/829c779393dfa24d121eda2b596b6108eebaaab2/original/spanish-tortilla-1-2-a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Njk0eDUyMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="520" width="694" /></p>
<p class="p1">Then I scattered some grated cheese and sliced scallions over the top... turned on the broiler... and watched obsessively <em>(I hate browned eggs!)</em> until the cheese just started to bubble. Out it came. I continued to loosen the edges. <em>(I know, but you'll thank me when you flip it out!)</em></p>
<p class="p1">Let the tortilla cool for about 5 minutes. Yes, really! Then put a plate on top and gently invert the pan.</p>
<p class="p1">Slice your creation into generous wedges, carefully place the wedges right-side-up on a warm plate, shower the top with chives, scallions, and chive blossoms...</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/75a641842bbcc7865456a6a7834461cbb8792f4f/original/spanish-tortilla-2-2a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzE0eDUzNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="534" width="714" /></p>
<p class="p1">And dig in. </p>
<p class="p1">This tortilla can hold its own with red wine, white wine, or very dry sherry. And if you think it's good now, try some at room temp tomorrow!!!</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/cd4363cf651596159ba9d3b30961f76cb4259937/original/spanish-tortilla-3-2a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzE1eDUzNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="536" width="715" /></p>
<p class="p1">PS. You may feel, as did we, that a little extra salt, sprinkled judiciously over the top is a good idea. My guess is that both chicken and potatoes are salt sponges, and the customary salty-spicy chorizo was not part of this particular tortilla. I would always prefer to under-season a bit so people can choose their own salt levels.</p>
<p><br> <br></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411722017-05-19T15:04:17-04:002020-01-05T23:32:30-05:00My Breakfast Sausage.
<p>Last weekend, I found myself lucky enough to have come into possession of about 3 pounds of pork trimmings and pork fat...</p>
<p>Sausage seemed the way to go.</p>
<p class="p1">I made sure the pork was in strips that would fit in my grinder...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/9146bb135ee72dd863fc62debe6ff1e0635405bb/original/my-breakfast-sausage-1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDgzeDY0NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="646" width="483" /></p>
<p class="p1">Then I seasoned the whole bowlful with 4t of kosher salt, 3T of dried sage from the garden (rubbed and stems removed), 20 or more grinds of black pepper, and at least 1t red pepper flakes. I tossed the pork and the seasonings and let it all sit while I set up my grinder. Then ground the mixture (with the fine blade) once through. You can do it twice, but oh what a pain!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/51dbb0b0d816179a44a37faa778ead4816c0ab2a/original/my-breakfast-sausage-2-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjA5eDQ1NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="456" width="609" /></p>
<p class="p1">Next sauté a small patty to taste for seasoning. As usual, I couldn't quite believe just how much salt sausage requires. So I spread the mixture on a cutting board, added another teaspoon of salt, a bit more sage, and a sprinkle more of red pepper flakes (just for fun)...</p>
<p class="p1">Sautéed another patty...</p>
<p class="p1">Smiled...</p>
<p class="p1">And packed away my bounty to freeze, with visions of those perfect weekend breakfasts-to-be... with eggs... or biscuits... or both.</p>
<p class="p1">Except, of course, for the portion left unfrozen because...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5261db1f636a39aa366c3851a9e1320ccaf077f1/original/my-breakfast-sausage-3-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mzk0eDUyNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="525" width="394" /></p>
<p class="p1">Tomorrow's breakfast is only about 18 hours away!!!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/6f3f79a87e078b79a73c8de8dd686e57c80034b5/original/my-breakfast-sausage-4-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mzk4eDUzMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="530" width="398" /></p>
<p><br> <br> <br></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411712017-05-09T14:08:40-04:002020-01-05T23:32:30-05:00Fish and (Vidalia Onion) Chips!
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1">When a friend, Laura Rege, gives you some perfect, fresh Vidalia onions...</p>
<p class="p1">And no, Martha Stewart, it is NOT pronounced vih-dahhhhhl-ya...</p>
<p class="p1">You just gotta make onion rings.</p>
<p class="p1">So...</p>
<p class="p1">There was a cod sale at Stew's, <em>ergo... </em>fish 'n' onion chips!</p>
<p class="p1">The batter is simple: 3/4 C flour, 1/4 C cornstarch, some Old Bay seasoning, a bit of black pepper, about 2-3 teaspoons baking powder, an egg white, milk and seltzer... enough to make a fairly thin pancake-like batter.</p>
<p class="p1">Canola oil heated to 375.</p>
<p class="p1">Cod cut in 1-2 inch strips.</p>
<p class="p1">1 Vidalia onion cut in 1/4 inch rings... Separated... And soaked in cold water or milk.</p>
<p class="p1">Dip the fish in the batter. Fry until golden. Put on a rack in a 325 oven as you continue to fry.</p>
<p class="p1">Dip the onion rings inn the same batter. Fry until golden. Add to the rack in the oven.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/652b93f7d84ec76114129fbd3704ca312c5ecd3f/original/vidalia-onion-rings-2a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTczeDQzMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="430" width="573" /></p>
<p class="p1">Dust the fish and onions with salt, and serve with your favorite tartar sauce.</p>
<p class="p1">And in a play on the English "mushy peas," serve this fish fry along with pea shoots dressed with EVOO, vinegar, and salt. These shoots cut right through the the oil from frying.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/f480ae407485f6cdeca90a506a876b52d1657308/original/fish-n-vidalia-onion-chips-2a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjY3eDQ5OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="499" width="667" /></p>
<p class="p1">Not a daily meal, but once in a while...</p>
<p class="p1">Wow!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411702017-04-30T09:28:57-04:002020-01-05T23:32:30-05:00Seared Salmon on A Bed of Creamed Ham, Onions, and Celery with Dill (Hamapalooza #3)
<p class="p1">The time has come for rooftop shouting and hosanna singing!</p>
<p class="p1">I made a dinner of which I am inordinately proud.</p>
<p class="p1">This is easily in the top 5... Really!</p>
<p class="p1">The backstory: we are very fond of salmon wrapped in prosciutto...</p>
<p class="p1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/homecoming_prosciuttowrapped_salmon_with_succotash_and_potatoes/</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/362ca3f8243b5adebc57785946bb213eda559168/original/prosciutto-wrapped-salmon-with-succotash-and-sauteed-potatoes-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDE3eDM2MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="362" width="417" /></p>
<p class="p1">... who wouldn't be? Prosciutto isn't always in the budget, I know. But in the week after Easter, ham is not only in the budget, using it creatively is a major responsibility.</p>
<p class="p1">So I started thinking. Ham and prosciutto are certainly kissing cousins if not identical twins. But there would be no way to wrap the salmon... Hmmmmm... What about a bed of some sort? That's where the playing began...</p>
<p class="p1">I chopped half an onion and two stalks of celery <em>(from the test kitchen)</em> into a pretty fine mince. In a sauté pan, I set them to sweat gently in some EVOO... not to color, just to soften and cook. When they tasted done, I added salt pepper and a splash of white wine. When the wine was gone, I added cream - how much is up to you, but I started with 1/2 C. As this simmered away, I diced enough ham to measure 1C and tossed it into the pan.</p>
<p class="p1">When I tasted this, I realized I was on to something quite extraordinary. </p>
<p class="p1">Letting this simmer gently, I turned to the salmon. I heated some EVOO in a sauté pan, salted and peppered two fillets, laid them flesh side down in the oil, cooked for about two minutes, gently turned them over, and cooked until done. <em>(We like the centers almost sushi-rare, so for us it was only another two minutes or so. You may go longer, but try very rare someday, seriously.)</em></p>
<p class="p1">I removed them from the pan and removed the skin <em>(again, up to you),</em> put a fairly generous pool of the ham "cream" on very hot plates, placed the salmon on its bed <em>(pretty side up, of course!), </em>and then went the next step... The step that changed everything.</p>
<p class="p1">I scattered minced dill across the whole plate.</p>
<p class="p1">I don't often think I'm a genius, but in this case...</p>
<p class="p1">Just incredible. The salmon is strong enough to rise to the top, flavor-wise, but the ham cream is not simply a supporting player. It supports, yes, but more than that, it enhances... not in exactly the same way prosciutto does, but in a way that hits many of the same notes while adding a few of its own.</p>
<p class="p1">Porky, smoked, rich. And then the dill. Wow. If you like the flavor of dill, the fresh exclamation point it brings is pretty stunning: herbal, lemony, a little shocking. And if the richness of the ham cream worries you, you may relax... The dill cuts that without destroying it.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/dd9b9c6e980276450f898d647c5c644a6569f822/original/seared-salmon-with-ham-sauce-2-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Njg0eDUxMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="513" width="684" /></p>
<p class="p1">This is one fine dish. I will make this many, many times in the future.</p>
<p class="p1">I hope you will too.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411682017-04-22T04:10:47-04:002020-01-05T23:32:30-05:00Denver Scramble with Melon (Hamapalooza #1!)
<p class="p1">As we begin Hamapalooza 2017...</p>
<p class="p1">The "morning after Easter " breakfast starts us off with a simple version of an old favorite: the Denver Omelette. But, feeling a bit lazy, I decided to scramble instead.</p>
<p class="p1">I diced a bit of roasted red pepper, some mushrooms, and two scallions. These sautéed for a bit in butter (hey... it's a holiday!). Then I tossed in some diced Easter ham and 6 eggs.</p>
<p class="p1">Now, unlike my usual looong-slooow-cooking scrambled eggs, these eggs get tossed into a very hot non-stick skillet and stirred, whipped, and turned constantly for about a minute. As soon as they appear <em>barely</em> wet... remove them from the heat... toss in a handful of cheddar... stir again... plate (warm, of course)... shower with chives... and devour.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8cb776d33c1fdaf75f45295070338bef9f508b71/original/denver-scramble-with-melon-2a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjE4eDQ2MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="463" width="618" /></p>
<p class="p1">And this year's Hamapalooza is off to a grand start!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411672017-04-21T15:47:54-04:002020-01-05T23:32:29-05:00David Pisegna's Herb-Roasted Salmon with Pinot Noir Sauce
<p class="p1">As promised, here is David Pisegna's brilliant recipe for Herb-Roasted Salmon with Pinot Noir Sauce, a dish that's brought us so much joy on special occasions over the past 30 years...</p>
<p class="p1">Just do it. Make it. Love it.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/d564614e53c297aed503642065fb806987684a3d/original/grilled-salmon-pinot-noir-1-3.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDkweDM2NyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="367" width="490" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;">Herb-Roasted King Salmon with Pinot Noir Sauce</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>(4 servings)</em></p>
<p>Herb-roasted salmon served with a rich butter sauce is a specialty at Seattle’s Sorrento Hotel.</p>
<p>2 T plus 2 t peanut oil</p>
<p>1 shallot, chopped</p>
<p>1/3 C coarsely chopped mushrooms</p>
<p>1/2 C Pinot Noir</p>
<p>5 sprigs of fresh tarragon</p>
<p>5 sprigs of fresh thyme</p>
<p>5 sprigs of fresh fennel tops</p>
<p>1/2 C fish stock or bottled clam juice</p>
<p>1/4 C heavy cream</p>
<p>1 stick (4 oz.) unsalted butter</p>
<p>1 t fresh lemon juice</p>
<p>1/2 t salt</p>
<p>1/4 t freshly ground pepper</p>
<p style="text-align: justify;">4 salmon fillets with skin on (about 6 oz. each), preferably King Salmon</p>
<ol style="text-align: justify;"> </ol>
<p style="text-align: justify;">1. In a medium saucepan, heat 2 teaspoons of the oil over high heat. Stir in the shallot and mushrooms and sauté until soft, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the wine and 1 sprig each of tarragon, thyme and fennel. Cook until the liquid is reduced by half, about 2 minutes. Add the stock and cream and cook until reduced to 3 tablespoons, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and whisk in 4 tablespoons of the butter. Strain the sauce. Stir in the lemon juice, 1/4 teaspoon of the salt and 1/8 teaspoon of the pepper; cover and set aside.</p>
<ol style="text-align: justify;"> </ol> <ol style="text-align: justify;"> </ol>
<p style="text-align: justify;">2. Preheat the oven to 400˚. Season the fish with the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper. In a large heavy skillet, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil over high heat. Add the salmon fillets, skin-side up, and sauté, turning once, until lightly browned, about 1 minute on each side.</p>
<ol style="text-align: justify;"> </ol>
<p style="text-align: justify;">3. With a wide spatula, remove the fillets and invert them into a baking dish. Using a knife, carefully peel back the skin from each fillet, leaving it attached at the end. Place 1 sprig each of tarragon, thyme and fennel and 1 tablespoon of butter on top of each piece of fish. Cover with the skin and bake until the fish is opaque throughout, 6 to 8 minutes.</p>
<ol style="text-align: justify;"> </ol> <ol style="text-align: justify;"> </ol>
<p style="text-align: justify;">4. Remove the skin and herbs from each fillet. Spoon 2 tablespoons of the warm sauce onto each of 4 dinner plates. Place a fillet on top. Garnish with additional herbs, if desired, and serve at once.</p>
<ol style="text-align: justify;"> </ol>
<p style="text-align: right;">--- David Pisegna, The Sorrento Hotel, Seattle</p>
<p><em>(Originally published in The Best of Food & Wine 1988 Collection)</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411662017-04-17T15:00:00-04:002021-04-03T17:40:41-04:00Our 39th Anniversary (Grilled Salmon in Pinot Noir Sauce with Succotash and Buttered Orzo, and Salad of Goat's Cheese, Roasted Beets, and Arugula)<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1">So...</p>
<p class="p1">We couldn't celebrate two major holidays (Easter and our 39th Anniversary) on the same night, so Easter had to wait until Monday!</p>
<p class="p1">Last night, for some unknown reason, the Anniversary menu somehow evolved into an '80s greatest hits: grilled salmon in a pinot noir sauce from <em>Food & Wine '88... a</em> salad of goat's cheese, roasted beets, and arugula... along with a bit of buttered orzo and succotash. You know, there are times when you don't need to reinvent the wheel. These were great recipes then and they're great recipes now. We also had a delicious Oregon 2013 Alloro Vineyard pinot noir courtesy of <em>F&W</em>'s Ray Isle - perfect with the meal! After 39 years together, we know what we like, and this meal was truly what we like!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5952e507d6bf3016b78ef7d31debc8a7d4f65567/original/grilled-salmon-pinot-noir-2-3.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDU4eDYxMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="610" width="458" /></p>
<p class="p1">I've just discovered that the salmon pinot recipe is not on <em>This Old Chef</em>, nor is it readily available on the <em>F&W</em> website, so I promise I will post it in the next day or so. It is sooooo good you'll thank me. And forgive me for making you wait!</p>
<p class="p1"><em><strong>[Here's a 2021 update: the recipe is by the brilliant David Pisegna, and <a contents="HERE" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/david-pisegna-s-herb-roasted-salmon-with-pinot-noir-sauce" style="" target="_blank">HERE</a><span style=""> it is!]</span></strong></em></p>
<p class="p1">Our house succotash is usually corn, lima beans, fresh hot peppers, and fresh sage. As it's only April, I swapped out the peppers and sage for roasted red peppers, red pepper flakes, and bacon... not a bad swap!</p>
<p class="p1">For the salad: roast peeled beets at 350 until tender. Cool. Cut in cubes. Toss with arugula, goat's cheese, salt, pepper, EVOO, and vinegar.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/d564614e53c297aed503642065fb806987684a3d/original/grilled-salmon-pinot-noir-1-3.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTYzeDQ1MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="452" width="563" /></p>
<p class="p1">Tomorrow...</p>
<p class="p1">Ham and all the fixin's!</p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411642017-04-12T08:00:00-04:002020-04-13T18:09:59-04:00A Toast to Easter - Past and Present!<p> </p>
<p><em>We almost always remember the holidays celebrated with our nearest and dearest...</em></p>
<p><em>"Oh, right, that was the year that [fill in your happiest/most frightening family story!]..."</em></p>
<p><em>Here are two of This Old Chef's Easter memories... with recipes!</em></p>
<p><span style="text-decoration:underline"><strong>A Comforting Post-Surgical Southern Easter 2016</strong></span></p>
<p> </p>
<p><em>(That was the year Charlie had his hip replaced...)</em></p>
<p>He was home from the hospital... safely... using a walker, but home!<br><br>And it was Good Friday.<br><br>So I thought, for Sunday, it would be kind to do a vaguely Southern Comfort Easter Dinner. We had:</p>
<p>A hickory-smoked Carando ham - our favorite grocery store ham - just ditch the packet of glaze...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a60e953aa8f9529028b1f82751ee013dfddbf1e4/original/the-easter-ham-2016.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDk1eDQxMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="410" width="495" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a data-imported="1" href="http://carando.com/recipes/glazed-spiral-ham" style=""><em>http://carando.com/recipes/glazed-spiral-ham</em></a></p>
<p>After taking the ham out to rest, I deglazed the roasting pan with a splash of white wine. This is less a gravy and more of a "moistener." Be aware: because it's ham, this sauce is very, very salty, so use just a bit... Or, if you want a lot, you'll need to add some unsalted chicken stock, or water, or even cream... Just be aware of the salt level!</p>
<p>Also, some delicious, long-simmered (in chicken stock with onions and smoked salt) lima beans...</p>
<p>Gratin of potatoes and Gruyère...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b4c572f9611b8c3cbbc92bcd4913ad42711521f4/original/potatoes-au-gratin-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDg2eDMwNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="305" width="486" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em><a contents="" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/happy-easter-ham-potatoes-au-gratin-and-asparagus" style="" target="_blank">https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/happy-easter-ham-potatoes-au-gratin-and-asparagus</a></em></p>
<p>Harriet's cornbread...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/d9b362ccc31ba33663dc6e4cac8c90836d5bde2f/original/cornbread-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDg4eDQyMiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="422" width="488" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em><a contents="" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/by-popular-demand-cornbread-greens-black-eyed-peas-and-italian-sausage" style="" target="_blank">https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/by-popular-demand-cornbread-greens-black-eyed-peas-and-italian-sausage</a></em></p>
<p>He still couldn't drink, so we had sparkling cider, compliments of our former neighbors Cindy and Bruce...</p>
<p>And feeling very grateful that he arose from the hospital bed!!!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/1a4efd22ae36aea3c5778e9439a0babd6d8eb19f/original/easter-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjU1eDUxNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="516" width="655" /></p>
<p><em>(Originally posted May 3, 3016)</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration:underline"><strong>Easter 2015! The Original Hamapalooza!</strong></span></p>
<p><em>(That was the year I decided to see how many luscious ham-inspired dishes I could create from one Easter ham...)</em></p>
<p>Wow! The votes are in and you, Dear Readers, seem to be craving Ham! Happy Hamapalooza!</p>
<p>In Yonkers, it was a gorgeous Easter Sunday. And for us, a long weekend...</p>
<p>Then, of course, there's the dinner!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/cfc168ddc76c5f0735f0e994885d90682de2bb7b/original/easter-2015-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTY4eDQ4NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="485" width="568" /></p>
<p>We had our luscious go-to ham: Carandos Hickory Smoked Spiral-Sliced Ham!</p>
<p><a data-imported="1" href="http://carando.com/recipes/glazed-spiral-ham"><em>http://carando.com/recipes/glazed-spiral-ham</em></a></p>
<p>And a gratin of potatoes and Gruyère...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b4c572f9611b8c3cbbc92bcd4913ad42711521f4/original/potatoes-au-gratin-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTczeDM0NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="345" width="573" /></p>
<p><a contents="" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/happy-easter-ham-potatoes-au-gratin-and-asparagus" style="" target="_blank"><em>https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/happy-easter-ham-potatoes-au-gratin-and-asparagus</em></a></p>
<p>And a lovely garlick-y EVOO-y pile of sautéed Broccoli di Rape. First, trim the ends off a bunch of broccoli rabe, then chop the stalks small, and the leafy ends a bit larger. Put it all in a pot with a bit of EVOO and a bit of water. Add chopped garlic, some salt, and a pinch of red pepper flakes. To balance the broccoli rabe's spectacular, natural bitterness, you can also add a handful of chopped raisins, currants or, as we did for Easter this year, chopped dried cranberries! Steam/sauté until just barely tender. Serve immediately.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/457f87118860b85cd3ba70cf155a1919d204cd37/original/easter-2015-3-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTY3eDQwOCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="408" width="567" /></p>
<p>With a dinner like that, there was no need for dessert!</p>
<p>Happy Hamapalooza!</p>
<p><em>(Originally Posted April 15, 2015)</em></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411632017-04-12T07:53:33-04:002020-01-21T19:17:27-05:00Happy, Happy Easter!
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1"><em>I'm not at all sure how this happened... but it's Easter... already!</em></p>
<p class="p1"><em>I hope you and yours have a wonderful day together, and, </em><em>to help make Sunday (and the days thereafter) a bit easier</em><em>, here are some of This Old Chef's absolute favorites, starting with my very first Easter offering!</em></p>
<p class="p1"><em>Happy Easter!!!</em></p>
<p>When I was a little boy, Easter was a major holiday for my family. And it wasn't just the candy that magically appeared in the baskets and shiny grass nests we hid all over the house…</p>
<p>I was fascinated and moved by the Holy Week stories and the rituals of the church services. But I won't pretend food wasn't a, if not the, centerpiece. We were an Easter ham family... and though ham rarely figures in my cooking these days (except for prosciutto), we are still a ham-at-Easter household.</p>
<p>Another part of the Easter feast that I really miss is the Pascal Lamb Cake. Let me explain…</p>
<p>My father’s mother was the prioress for a community of cloistered nuns. Essentially she did all the talking to the outside world... since they couldn't. And one of the ways they thanked her every year was a delicious cake... lamb-shaped… covered in coconut.</p>
<p>And, since she spent Easter with us… !!!!!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/cc00ce61c9f4c615a83bfd06c361611a7ce9db6e/original/pascal-lamb-cake-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDE1eDIyMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="223" width="415" /></p>
<p>Since neither of us works for baking nuns, dessert has slipped out of the equation... but the ham remains.</p>
<p>I don't use Coca-Cola.... or pineapples... or ginger-snap crumbs... or any of the other disturbing (to me) additions to ham. I simply buy a good quality city ham… one with as little added water as possible... and bake it according to the directions on the wrapper.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/fc4ddb85b09ac2e0d5eac883c3b2f390ab73764e/original/easter-ham-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDM5eDI4MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="282" width="439" /></p>
<p>About 45 minutes before it’s done, I glaze it with some mustard mixed with brown sugar. There's always a green spring vegetable... this year asparagus simply steamed, or grilled.</p>
<p>And then... the potatoes. Here's where the splurge happens. Though a truly wonderful cook who taught me a lot, my mother did partake in the convenience foods of the day, including packaged, scalloped potatoes. Or the other version… potatoes au gratin.</p>
<p>Not surprisingly, I make my own. And they couldn't be simpler or more decadently delicious. Just thinly slice enough peeled potatoes to fit in whatever baking dish you're using… butter the dish… add a layer of potatoes… sprinkle with salt and pepper and a little flour… then keep repeating that layer until you finish the potatoes. Then pour in as much milk… half-and-half… or CREAM... as needed, to just barely reach the top of the potatoes.</p>
<p>Cover the dish with foil and bake in a 350° oven for about an hour or until as tender as you like. (I like a little bit of firmness in mine… so you may want to cook them a bit longer.)</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b4c572f9611b8c3cbbc92bcd4913ad42711521f4/original/potatoes-au-gratin-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTAzeDMyNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="324" width="503" /></p>
<p>Now… here's my variation that takes these over the top… On each layer, I add a hefty sprinkling of grated Gruyère cheese with a tiny pinch of nutmeg… And I take the foil off for the last 15 minutes to let the cheese brown. Just before you serve, shower the potatoes with snipped chives… the green is not only beautiful, but the delicate spring onion flavor helps to cut the richness of the potatoes. Believe me, this is not a dish for daily consumption, but every now and then...</p>
<p><span style="color:#000000">PS. Yes, you can add cooked bacon, or grated onions</span>, or whatever your family tradition calls for... but just once try these "plain".... You may forego embellishments from now on! And this is one of those times when using REAL Gruyère is the only way to go.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/1fed7f44d7be6bba575daf3c1e5a730ae10d681d/original/easter-dinner-2012-ham-asparagus-potatoes-au-gratin-gruyere-copy-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDE4eDQ4NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="486" width="418" /></p>
<p><span style="color:#000080"><span lang="EN"> </span></span></p>
<p><span style="color:#000000">Have a wonderful Easter, everyone! Celebrate Spring, renewal, rebirth... </span></p>
<p><span style="color:#000000">And everyone you love.</span></p>
<p><span style="color:#000000">And cook something delicious!!!!</span></p>
<p><em><span style="color:#000000">(Originally posted March 27, 2013)</span></em></p>
<p><span style="color:#000000"><br></span></p>
<p><br> <br></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411752017-04-10T06:00:00-04:002023-09-27T15:16:14-04:00Roast Chicken Panini with Parmesan Garlic Butter, Gruyére and Dill on Ciabatta<p>As with my stand on risotto, I don't like the idea of panini as a dumping ground for leftover food.</p><p>However...</p><p>When you inventory the fridge and find that you have the remains of a fine roast French chicken...</p><p><i>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/roast_chicken/</i></p><p>... as we did...</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8c3e4a770f0d2b7b08519472b4c5f976db9a4e1d/original/roast-french-chicken-2-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjEyeDQ1OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="458" width="612" /></p><p>... along with some Gruyére, some dill, and a bit of the most perfect Parmigiano garlic butter...</p><p>Well.</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/62b5e7163f14ed0ebc07f145286a8ea22e43ec5f/original/roast-french-chicken-panini-1-2-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTk4eDQ0OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="448" width="598" /></p><p>I sliced part of a ciabatta open... garlic buttered it... laid on two slices of Gruyére... added strips of perfectly roasted <i>(if I do say so myself!)</i> chicken breast... topped with feathery fresh dill... Then replaced the top half, and proceeded to grill in my accustomed manner...</p><p> </p><p><i>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/many_mini_panini_basil__parmesan_sage__prosciutto_thyme__carmelized_onions_with_tuscan_beans/</i></p><p>This was quite a sandwich, believe me. And no dumping ground at all!</p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a6e77e418aa8181a914612f18fb1b0fd6118bbea/original/roast-french-chicken-panini-2-2-002-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjA2eDQ1NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="454" width="606" /></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411802017-04-08T03:00:00-04:002023-09-27T15:12:51-04:00Arancini with Turkey, Asparagus, and Fava Beans on A Bed of Arugula with Spicy Mayo<p><span>We had a wonderful "primavera" risotto for dinner the other day, studded with fava beans and asparagus, with a sprinkle of chopped chives and pistachios...</span></p><p style="text-align:center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/fe2a310939c736c0e4c69db61986fa92bab1ec0f/original/risotto-with-asparagus-and-fava-beans-with-chives-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTgyeDQzOCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="438" width="582" /></p><p>And<span>, </span>because of the quirky exigencies of the food magazine world, we had a "Thanksgiving" feast the following day...<span> Roast turkey with a rich velouté, lima beans with a little bacon, and rice...</span><br> </p><p style="text-align:center;"><span><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/fd2338091be8803081261bdf1d9ddf1b4944acc9/original/thanksgiving-june-2017-turkey-and-veloute-lima-beans-with-bacon-and-r.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTc3eDQzMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="433" width="577" /></span><br> </p><p><span>With The Remains of Both Days in the fridge... Arancini seemed the way to go!</span></p><p><span>First, I took about 2 cups of the risotto... added 2 eggs... a good handful of bread crumbs </span><i><span>(the best use for day-old baguette)</span></i><span>... and half of the turkey breast, cubed.</span></p><p><span>I tasted the mix and decided to add some minced sage along with salt and pepper. I rolled the mixture into balls (about 1/3 C apiece), rolled the balls in more bread crumbs, and then - quite possibly the most important part - chilled the formed balls for a few hours. This allowed them to firm up a bit and, therefore, not fall apart when frying.</span></p><p><span>As dinner time approached, I heated some vegetable oil (about 2 inches in a deep pan) to 350°-360°.... turned the oven on to 350°... and prepared a holding rack (a cooling rack in a half sheet </span><i><span>[cookie sheet]</span></i><span> pan). Then I made a very spicy tomato mayo (mayo, ketchup, sriracha, lemon juice, habanero hot sauce, and some chives I had left from the breakfast eggs)...</span></p><p><span>When the oil reached 355°, I added 3 arancini at a time, and fried them until they were a deep, deep golden brown. Yes, they almost looked too brown... The timing all depends on your oil temp, arancini temp, etc., so go by color.</span></p><p><span>Using a spider, I fished the arancini out of the oil, placed them on the rack, placed the rack in the oven... brought the oil back to temp, continued with the next three... and so on. When I'd made enough to serve for dinner </span><i><span>(I'm experimenting with freezing the others, uncooked... I'll let you know)</span></i><span>, I plated them on a bed of arugula, added a large dollop of the spicy mayo, and served.</span></p><p style="text-align:center;"><span><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/eb61e736aa88b7f8bbdd162e5d8323caa9d705bf/original/july-4-arancini-2-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjUweDQ4NyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="487" width="650" /></span><br> </p><p><span>Wow! Perfectly fried, crispy on the outside... warm and molten on the inside. The sauce added great zing... and we giggled. I think I've told you: when the first bite results in giggles, I know I've done something right!</span></p><p><span>MANGIA!!!</span></p><p><br> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411622017-04-07T05:23:29-04:002023-09-27T14:14:04-04:00Pasta with Morel Mushrooms, Fava Beans and Bacon
<p class="p1">Yes, you read that correctly.</p>
<p class="p1">I came home from the test kitchen with 4 morels and 1/2 C peeled fava beans.</p>
<p class="p1">Now, I am in many ways a purist: I want extraordinary ingredients to taste like... themselves.</p>
<p class="p1">Morels and favas are extraordinary.</p>
<p class="p1">Therefore, I began to think about things that enhance, but don't mask, those flavors...</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;">Bacon (but not a lot)...</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;">Cream (but not a lot)...</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;">Parmigiano (but not a lot)...</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;">Black pepper (a whole lot)...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">And Sherry (hardly any).</p>
<p>Armed with this knowledge, I began to formulate a plan. Almost immediately, I realized I had about a cup of cooked orzo... hardly enough for dinner for two, but in this case, richness would make up for volume.</p>
<p class="p1">I sliced two pieces of bacon into small pieces and sautéed them until crisp. I drained them and poured off almost all of the fat. Then I added the 4 large morels that I'd quartered and sautéed them for about 1 minute...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3d20c7ffadb798369a1bb726c849970306dae695/original/morels-in-the-pan-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTU0eDQxNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="415" width="554" /></p>
<p class="p1">Then I added the favas and cooked for another minute...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/64129328f0a298cf80cfbe096f64e566a455b0a9/original/morels-favas-in-the-pan-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTQ5eDQxMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="410" width="549" /></p>
<p class="p1">Then I added them to the bacon, deglazed the pan with a tiny shot of dry sherry, added the mushroom mixture back in, and peppered heavily (trust me). You may want salt... I didn't.</p>
<p class="p1">Then in went the orzo. I warmed it all for a minute, then added a good but not excessive splash of cream... warmed that... and then placed a small mound of this perfection on a very hot plate. I lightly dusted it with Parmigiano, and served it forth...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/cbab7282c9fdd0074c7f8ab8c195b1d0bcfa80df/original/morels-favas-and-bacon-pasta-1-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzE4eDUzOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="539" width="718" /></p>
<p class="p1">There are no words. Charlie said it might just have been the best thing I ever made. I didn't disagree.</p>
<p class="p1">We could taste everything. Nothing was masked or overwhelmed.</p>
<p class="p1">And this all happened with 4 morels and 1/2 C favas. Not a lot...</p>
<p class="p1">But way more than the sum of!!!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411612017-03-28T14:43:07-04:002020-01-05T23:32:29-05:00Pan-Seared Halibut with Beurre Blanc, Sautéed Rosemary Potatoes, and Asparagus
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1">So, there are days and then there are days. This was a good one.</p>
<p class="p1">A visiting chef brought some first-of-the-season halibut from Alaska.</p>
<p class="p1">You heard me.</p>
<p class="p1">And there was one piece left. Uncooked. Well...</p>
<p class="p1">Fish wasn't on the menu, but when life gives you first-of-the-season halibut from Alaska...</p>
<p class="p1">It's one of my favorite fish! Delicate. Snow White. A rare treat because it's very expensive and needs to be perfectly fresh. So I wanted to go simple...</p>
<p class="p1">Salt and pepper. EVOO. A quick sear on both sides. A 3- to 4-minute stay in a 350 oven.</p>
<p class="p1">Then I remembered: I still had some idiot-proof beurre blanc in the fridge <em>(idiot-proof because it contained cream, thus making it possible to reheat without breaking it!)</em>.</p>
<p class="p1">So I warmed the beurre blanc and barely napped <em>(draped some sauce over)</em> the fish and, over the top, scattered some minced tarragon. I served it on very hot plates with sautéed rosemary potatoes and barely cooked asparagus.</p>
<p class="p1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/6e414225a7ac862f3c0dee0fca485e241b8882e8/original/halibut-in-beurre-blanc-with-sauteed-potatoes-and-asparagus.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzcxeDYxMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="613" width="771" /></p>
<p class="p1">This was one of those perfect, laugh-aloud-after-the-first-bite meals. We sat and talked for hours.</p>
<p class="p1">As I've said to you a million times... When a great ingredient presents itself, scrap your plans and dive in. You'll be so glad you did.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411602017-03-19T14:35:31-04:002020-01-05T23:32:29-05:00Thai Green Curry with Chickpeas, Potatoes, and Peas on Brown Rice
<p class="p1">Wait.</p>
<p class="p1">Before you make fun of this... try it. It was deeply satisfying on a frigid night.</p>
<p class="p1">I cubed and sautéed some potatoes.</p>
<p class="p1">I drained and rinsed a large can of chickpeas.</p>
<p class="p1">I flavored a can of coconut milk with 2T of my favorite Thai green curry paste, a splash of soy and fish sauces, and a pinch of sugar.</p>
<p class="p1">I thawed some frozen peas.</p>
<p class="p1">When the rice was ready, I combined everything else and got it quite hot.</p>
<p class="p1">And then...</p>
<p class="p1">I added the secret ingredient.</p>
<p class="p1">Last summer, when I had a superfluity of Thai basil in the garden, I made some pesto out of that Thai basil. And that's what I added at the last minute!</p>
<p class="p1">Then I served it atop the rice. </p>
<p class="p1">Neither of us was quite prepared for the deep, meaty flavor of this totally meatless meal.</p>
<p class="p1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/58fc44062c31579d34dc278841c74593b0dbb207/original/thai-green-curry-1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Nzc2eDU5NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="595" width="776" /></p>
<p class="p1">P.S. In the summer, Thai basil is available at most garden stores.</p>
<p class="p1">Buy it. Plant it. Eat it.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411572017-03-13T14:46:24-04:002020-01-21T19:17:24-05:00An Irish Feast! (Sauteed Salmon with Pinot Noir Sauce, Colcannon, and Asparagus)
<p style="text-align: left;">I can hardly believe it's already St. Patrick's Day again... My parents were right when they told me time just goes faster and faster!</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">We were never the Irish Stew kind of family, so I've pretty much had to make up my own Irish feast menu. Though there have been minor variations over the years, we've basically settled on a few must-haves:</p>
<p>Salmon, in honor of some of the world's greatest...</p>
<p>Colcannon, in honor of the essential white potato...</p>
<p>And asparagus in honor not only of the green beauty of Ireland but also in honor of the promise of Spring.</p>
<p>So, while not necessarily an Irish-AMERICAN type of St. Paddy's Day meal (I'm really not a big fan of corned beef)... I think Ireland would probably nod and smile.</p>
<p>For this meal, I simply salted and peppered filets and sautéed them in butter until just barely done. Then I sauced the salmon, this time, with a very simple reduction of shallots, pinot noir, and chicken stock....to which I added an obscene amount of cold butter, swirled into the reduced wine/stock/and shallots.</p>
<p>The colcannon is my usual riced potatoes with heavy cream, with steamed sliced cabbage folded in, then topped with chives.</p>
<p>And my surefire way to cook asparagus: snap off the tough ends and place in a skillet with a small amount of salted water and simmer until they just barely start to soften.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/bad8bb0c7f598650e44d96e5074261207fe22645/original/st-patrick-s-day-dinner-1-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDg3eDM3MSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="371" width="487" /></p>
<p>Usually, I finish with something chocolate for dessert, but this year, we were both feeling so Springlike that dessert seemed unnecessary. But a wee drop o' the creature never hurts... <em>Sláinte!</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p><em>(Originally posted on March 13, 2013)</em></p>
<p><em><br></em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411552017-03-12T04:24:24-04:002020-01-05T23:32:28-05:00Grilled Yellowfin Tuna with Pickled Ginger
<p>When there's a huge sale at Stew's on wild-caught yellowfin tuna... resistance is futile.</p>
<p class="p1">For years, one of our big splurge meals has been a riff on the tuna "filet mignon" from the original Union Square Cafe Cookbook. I've changed the marinade a bit, but the essentials have remained the same. Here's a link to the original...</p>
<p class="p1">https://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/3441-union-square-cafes-marinated-filet-mignon-of-tuna</p>
<p class="p1">Because I never keep teriyaki sauce in the house, I marinate the tuna in soy, sherry, garlic, cayenne, and scallions. <em>(Trust me, you won't miss the teriyaki.) </em>In the olden days, I grilled this on an indoor tabletop "smokeless" grill given to me by the extraordinary Deb Stenard. Now I just heat up a grill pan until it threatens to catch fire!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/0f769d37292246e66ec5bf11f00724ae2356542c/original/tuna-filet-mignon-1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTA4eDM2MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="360" width="508" /></p>
<p class="p1">I'm going to suggest that you <em>just</em> sear the outside... and have almost sushi within... but that's totally your call.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c91f7c920e37e37272a329af573df954c13a4083/original/tuna-filet-mignon-2a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTExeDQwNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="406" width="511" /></p>
<p class="p1">We savored this treat topped with A Lot of pickled ginger, along with a side of mashed potatoes and some peas and salami quickly sautéed in olive oil, salt, and pepper...</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/90e9a993f2f879a540190cac635d95f741653a30/original/mashed-potatoes-a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDE1eDI5OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="299" width="415" /></p>
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/ad312d778253475d8923c7a96e3e99f8a7e32238/original/sauteed-salami-and-peas-a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDExeDM1NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="354" width="411" /></p>
<p class="p1">And fond memories of our (much) younger days.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/e36b690db21561fb88ec5f221b2238798c58db82/original/tuna-filet-mignon-3a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjQxeDQ0OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="448" width="641" /></p>
<p class="p1">Try this sometime. I know we shouldn't eat tuna frequently until their situation improves, but every now and then... Sigh.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411542017-02-22T04:55:03-05:002020-01-05T23:32:28-05:00"Spanish" Saltimbocca with Perfectly Crisp Sautéed Potatoes and Salad
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/66d0372355a70a1538cbb819f4a3c8ef742d17be/original/spanish-saltimbocca-2-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mjk0eDM3NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_right border_" alt="" height="376" width="294" />Please allow me to brag...</p>
<p class="p1">A few nights ago, I made a truly exceptional meal.</p>
<p class="p1">You heard me. No false modesty here. It was great.</p>
<p>After a demo in the test kitchen, I came home with some thinly sliced Spanish-style chorizo, a bit of sliced cheese, half an onion, and a few salad greens... and there was still a bit of ham from a few days before. There had also been a great chicken breast sale at the store and, to the two of us, the idea of a Spanish take on saltimbocca seemed like fun...</p>
<p class="p1">So, I prepped the breast as for saltimbocca...</p>
<p class="p1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/the_birthday_chicken_saltimbocca_wild_rice_pilaf_herb_salad_chocolate_pudding_with_cointreau/</em></p>
<p class="p1">...laid a few slices of the chorizo on the lower half of both pieces, and covered the chorizo with a slice of the cheese (pretty much any cheese would work just fine, this happened to be Muenster).</p>
<p class="p1">I then folded the "undressed" halves of the breast over the "dressed" halves, making a nice packet. Don't worry if a bit of sausage or cheese peeks out. I proceeded to salt and pepper the outside, and then flour, egg, and breadcrumb each of the packages. Sautéed them in EVOO for about 2-3 minutes per side until nicely browned. Placed them in a 350 oven to finish cooking.</p>
<p class="p1">While the chicken finishes... build your sauce.</p>
<p class="p1">Sauté half an onion that you've minced fine. After a minute or two, add a minced clove or two of garlic. After another minute, add a good splash of white wine and a bit of sherry (trust me). Let this bubble away, adding a good pinch or two of smoked paprika and (the secret ingredients that took this over the top) about a 1/4 C of very very finely diced cooked ham and 1/2 teaspoon of finely minced rosemary. Let this bubble a bit, but don't over-reduce. If it gets too thick, a splash of water or stock will help.</p>
<p class="p1">Just before serving, toss in a piece of butter and turn off the heat... and let the butter melt gently into the sauce.</p>
<p class="p1">Place the "saltimbocca" on the plate. Be generous as you sauce! Accompany with sautéed potatoes and a simple salad (one a bit more vinegar-y than usual). Pour a nice full-bodied but not too subtle red, and you will be so surprised...</p>
<p class="p1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/46d44ab8f94956b835fef90056b5b806b147d586/original/spanish-saltimbocca-1-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6ODAzeDU1NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="554" width="803" /></p>
<p class="p1">This is almost shockingly subtle considering the ingredients, but the sauce is hauntingly deep.</p>
<p class="p1">And the "saltimbocca"?</p>
<p class="p1">Well, you will be amazed! I can't say enough about this... Please try it!</p>
<p class="p1">We sat at table for hours, talking long after the last morsel was eaten... the indisputable hallmark of a great meal.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411532017-02-11T01:37:14-05:002020-01-05T23:32:28-05:00Hooray for Love!
<p>Valentine's Day... Can't live with it, can't live without it!</p>
<p>I'm a big believer in staying home with, and cooking for, the one you love.</p>
<p>This year, I hope you'll check out the delectable recipes I created for Rachael Ray's <em>Every Day..</em>.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/39e090eef422a333cfdf24699cfe9ecf7d50a828/original/valentine-s-issue-every-day-with-rachael-ray-cover2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDYyeDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="462" /></p>
<p>Just click on the <em>Articles</em> tab on the left side of this page, where you'll find a link to the article and all the recipes...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/74ad2d915512dbcae19b5fd56dfb7b93f23f4f1b/original/valentine-s-issue-every-day-with-rachael-ray-page-1a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDYyeDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="462" /></p>
<p>I love these recipes, but please don't blame me for the names given to them...</p>
<p>And Happy Valentine's Day!</p>
<p><em>(Originally posted on February 10, 2016)</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411522017-02-09T12:49:24-05:002020-01-05T23:32:28-05:00Veal Chop with Succotash and High-Toned Mac 'n' (Humboldt Fog Thank You Very Much) Cheese
<p class="p1">When the kitchen's testing a veal rib roast...</p>
<p class="p1">And they give you "a rib" to take home...</p>
<p class="p1">And it's already perfectly cooked...</p>
<p class="p1">What do you do?</p>
<p class="p1">I pre-heated the broiler, set a rack in a sheet pan, carefully removed the bone and sliced the hugely thick chop in half, then broiled it for about 40 seconds a side... just to heat it a bit.</p>
<p class="p1">Next I warmed some plates until they were almost too hot to touch, and served the veal unadorned but for a sprinkle of salt, alongside some succotash...</p>
<p class="p1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/homecoming_prosciuttowrapped_salmon_with_succotash_and_potatoes/</em></p>
<p class="p1">and...</p>
<p class="p1">My latest obsession. I know I've mentioned this before, but it must needs be repeated: boil some ORZO, drain it and, while it's hot, add a fair bit of butter, salt, and a lot of pepper... and then toss in ridiculous amounts of HUMBOLDT FOG...</p>
<p class="p1"><em>http://www.cypressgrovecheese.com/cheese/soft-ripened-cheeses/humboldt-fog-grande.html</em></p>
<p class="p1">...Let it melt in and prepare yourself for joy! Cheesy goaty moldy joy!</p>
<p class="p1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/6723471c95ce272c68910f777d9322288837a324/original/veal-chop-with-succotash-and-humboldt-fog-mac-n-cheese-2-002-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzE0eDUzNyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="537" width="714" /></p>
<p class="p1">PS. I can do this only because Charlie's generous co-workers gave him a pound of that glorious cheese! I rewarded him by returning the veal bone to the plate for him to gnaw on.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411512017-01-25T14:18:08-05:002020-01-05T23:32:28-05:00Indian Paella (You Heard Me!)
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1">Yes, seriously.</p>
<p class="p1">A lot of the main ingredients were just sitting in the fridge... waiting... needfully... to be used. And Indian food is the go-to for both of us! So I thought...</p>
<p class="p1">We'd been on a rare Monday outing to Arthur Avenue and splurged on some gorgeous hot Italian sausage (frequently named the best in the City). There had been a huge wild-caught shrimp sale at Stew's (Stew Leonard's, <em>ne c'est pas?</em>). And I had a too-small-for-a-meal bit of chicken breast...</p>
<p class="p1">So I made some rice with curry, cumin, bay leaf, salt and black pepper. While that was cooking, I sautéed a bit of the sausage, and removed it... Sautéed the chicken (cut in small pieces), and removed it. Then I sautéed a minced onion, added minced garlic, added ground, roasted cumin seeds, powdered coriander and cardamom...</p>
<p class="p1">I de-glazed the pan with some white wine... Returned the sausage and chicken...</p>
<p class="p1">Added the shrimp... Cooked it until the shrimp were/was/were almost done...</p>
<p class="p1">Zested a lemon... Splashed in some chicken broth...</p>
<p class="p1">Tasted...</p>
<p class="p1">Added salt and some of my habañero hot sauce...</p>
<p class="p1">Served it atop the curry rice, scattered some parsley atop (if only I'd had cilantro!).</p>
<p class="p1">What a meal! Not quite Indian, not quite paella, but perhaps the best of both.</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/83be878af04473a0566d7b2351e8db042e309465/original/indian-paella-resized-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjkweDUxOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="519" width="690" /></p>
<p class="p1">Play with this one! Add peas, peppers, other meats... whatever you think might work!</p>
<p class="p1">Madrid meets Mumbai!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411502017-01-21T13:19:21-05:002020-01-05T23:32:28-05:00Beef Stroganoff with Dill, Sour Cream, and Dijon over Farfalle
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1">Oh, my... What to do what to do?!?</p>
<p class="p1">The test kitchen was testing a new <em>sous vide</em> machine (quite successfully I might add), and today's experiment was steak, a New York strip, to be exact. After all was said and done, there was about 1/3 lb. left. I took it, remembering that I had some dill at home, as well as sour cream. I was seeing a stroganoff in our future!</p>
<p class="p1">I sliced the beef into strips and set it aside, knowing it needed only gentle reheating, so as not to overcook.</p>
<p class="p1">I then sautéed minced shallots and wild mushrooms in a little butter (all from the test kitchen)... added stock... then some Dijon... salt and pepper.</p>
<p class="p1">So, I let this reduce a bit, tossed in some almost cooked farfalle, added the beef, turned off the heat, stirred in an embarrassment of sour cream and a big handful of chopped dill...</p>
<p class="p1">Just unreal. We ate and talked for ages over small bowls of this classic... the best indicator of a great dish.</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/29e26604e88bb64653d86541ef2b7a7f97cc15bf/original/beef-stroganoff-1-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Njg5eDU2NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="564" width="689" /></p>
<p class="p1">And, just to make sure you caught this: under 1/3 lb. of beef.</p>
<p class="p1">For two of us.</p>
<p class="p1">With a portion left for Charlie's Monday lunch.</p>
<p class="p1">Just sayin'...</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411492017-01-16T02:02:23-05:002020-01-05T23:32:28-05:00Brown Butter Branzino with Lemon, Herbs and Roasted Potatoes
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1">You know, just your average day... a friend gives you a gorgeous whole branzino (European seabass), a delicate, sustainable, flavorful firm-fleshed white fish...</p>
<p class="p1">I took it home, cleaned it, pre-heated the oven to 450...</p>
<p class="p1">Salted and peppered the fish inside and out, filled the cavity with thin-sliced lemons and handfuls of fresh herbs (really whatever you have, I used oregano, thyme, and basil)...</p>
<p class="p1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/311438beaeb126c2e00498b184261e7cedf65b4c/original/branzino-1-002-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjY4eDMxOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="319" width="668" /></p>
<p class="p1">Laid the fish on a parchment-lined sheet pan (you'll be really glad you did when clean-up time rolls around) and cooked it for approximately 10 minutes.</p>
<p class="p1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/cdf0a37327970367857857d3f2148e6c02684b92/original/branzino-2-002-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjY0eDIzNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="234" width="664" /></p>
<p class="p1">I served it on very hot plates with more lemons, some browned butter (a classic <em>beurre noisette</em>, post to follow!) with chopped dill, and small roasted potatoes.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/7670667640546a5e6391cf37b587200df966ac5a/original/branzino-3-002.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjAyeDU3NyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="577" width="602" /></p>
<p class="p1">Life is good.</p>
<p class="p1">Don't give in to your fear of cooking fish. It's really easy. It's fast. It's healthy. And best of all, it's really, REALLY tasty!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411482017-01-14T03:31:47-05:002020-01-05T23:32:27-05:00Hot Italian Sausage and Pesto Pizza
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1">At least once during the week preceding Christmas, we have a pizza. No, it doesn't make any real sense, but for us it's grown into something of a tradition.</p>
<p class="p1">For this night's version, I sautéed 10 cloves of minced garlic in EVOO, and added some chopped canned tomatoes... Then a heaping tablespoon of our homemade pesto from the freezer...</p>
<p class="p1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/pesto_basil_waits_for_no_man/</em></p>
<p class="p1">...some red pepper flakes, and salt. This was left to cool, as was some hot Italian sausage I'd removed from its casing, crumbled, and sautéed. When pizza time arrived...</p>
<p class="p1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/basic_pizza_dough/</em></p>
<p class="p1">...I formed the crust, topped it with the sauce, then scattered the sausage... and topped it all with a judicious amount of mozzarella and Parmigiano.</p>
<p class="p1">Baked it on a very hot stone and kept the Winter Chill away! Pizza: goooood!</p>
<p class="p1"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/0e94f8dec6266168d7682a4266ba7fdb9c240d20/original/sausage-and-pesto-pizza-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Nzc0eDYxMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="610" width="774" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411472017-01-06T03:00:31-05:002020-01-21T19:17:19-05:00A Decadent Chicken Schnitzel (with Chanterelles!)
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1">As you know, I make schnitzel frequently. </p>
<p class="p1">And being in the Test Kitchen again is providing us with a wonderfully wide range of perfect ingredients. Today was no exception.</p>
<p class="p1">My life has become like one of those crazy cooking competition shows...</p>
<p class="p1">"In today's culinary challenge, you will have 30 minutes to create an <em>Extraordinary</em> Dinner using these ingredients..."</p>
<p class="p1">So tonight, I had about 1/3 C of beautifully sautéed chanterelles.</p>
<p class="p1">And a chicken breast.</p>
<p class="p1">And a small bag of peeled shallots.</p>
<p class="p1">And off I went.</p>
<p class="p1">You know how to make my basic schnitzel...</p>
<p class="p1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/schnitzel_redux_sandy_be_damned/</em></p>
<p><em> </em></p>
<p class="p1">For the sauce, I minced two of the gorgeous shallots and sautéed them in some EVOO, added the leaves from 4 stalks of thyme, then added a splash of white wine, and, when that was almost dry, added 1/3-1/2 C chicken stock. I reduced that by about half...</p>
<p class="p1">When the chicken was done and removed to hot plates, I poured the sauce into the chicken skillet, added the chanterelles, warmed them through, poured the sauce over the schnitzels, and served it with brown rice.</p>
<p class="p1">OK, I also had some micro basil from the Test Kitchen that I sprinkled on top... La Di Da!!!</p>
<p class="p1">The shallots and chanterelles turned this from good... to Wow!</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a43cf3905b453e7c13d50eaed88ad8850064b30d/original/schnitzel-chanterelles-with-brown-rice-and-micro-basil.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Njc3eDU3MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="572" width="677" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411462016-12-20T13:53:42-05:002020-01-05T23:32:27-05:00Shrimp Fried Rice with Ginger, Onions, Bok Choy and Brown Rice
<p> </p>
<p>Abbondanza!</p>
<p>(Or, perhaps, in this case, Fengfu!)</p>
<p>I was given a large container of cooked shrimp. Hmmmmm...</p>
<p class="p1">I had garlic.</p>
<p class="p1">I had ginger.</p>
<p class="p1">I had onions. </p>
<p class="p1">I had rice.</p>
<p class="p1">I had bok choy.</p>
<p class="p1">Fried rice sounded good to both of us. </p>
<p class="p1">As usual, <em>mise en place</em> is essential for stir fry. So I minced a lot of garlic and ginger and onions.</p>
<p class="p1">I cut the shrimp into small pieces.</p>
<p class="p1">I chopped the bok choy.</p>
<p class="p1">I heated the oil in my pan, added the onions and ginger and, after about a minute, I added the bok choy.</p>
<p class="p1">After another minute, in went the garlic.</p>
<p class="p1">After another minute, I added a splash of soy sauce.</p>
<p class="p1">Then, in went the cold rice.</p>
<p class="p1">I stir fried this whole mixture until the rice was hot, added the shrimp, added some of my habañero hot sauce.</p>
<p class="p1">Tasted.</p>
<p class="p1">Added more soy.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/1ae035116ddf156673e690b4704c97c15e9a0c60/original/shrimp-fried-rice-with-bok-choy-1.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTY0eDUxNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="515" width="564" /></p>
<p class="p1">Served it in hot bowls. Hot pepper, garlic, ginger, shrimp. What could be better as the days get shorter and the nights get colder? Delicious!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411452016-12-16T13:41:40-05:002020-01-05T23:32:27-05:00Christmas Cookies! (Chocolate Shortbread!)
<p> </p>
<p>Stop What You're Doing and Make These!!!</p>
<p>Seriously. I love all the traditional Christmas cookies. But I'm telling you: make chocolate shortbread and bring those elves to their knees!</p>
<p>These come from Chef Extraordinaire Bob Chambers. You will never, I guarantee, eat another chocolate cookie without thinking about these chocolate shortbreads...</p>
<p>I recently worked with Bob on a very elaborate dinner party... and I have to tell you, his food is even better than I remembered!!!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8bd5b4332f56e6c0277508a9ad675eddddc5bc91/original/chocolate-shortbread-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDU1eDM3MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="372" width="455" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"> <strong>Chocolate Shortbread</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Yield: Approximately 80 (</strong><strong>Depending on Size of Cookie)</strong></p>
<p>Cream:</p>
<p>1 lb. Unsalted butter</p>
<p>1¼ C Sugar</p>
<p>4 t Pure vanilla</p>
<p>4 C AP flour</p>
<p>1¼ C Cocoa</p>
<p>1 t Salt</p>
<p>Chill. Roll approximately ⅜-inch thick on a sugared surface.</p>
<p>Cut into desired shapes. Prick each cookie with the tines of a fork. Chill, or freeze.</p>
<p>Bake at 275° for 40 minutes.</p>
<p><em>(Originally posted on December 27, 2012)</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411442016-12-11T02:39:05-05:002020-01-05T23:32:27-05:00Christmas Cookies! (Shortbread!)
<p style="text-align: center;"> </p>
<p>Shortbread.</p>
<p>I have always been helpless when confronted with a plate of shortbread...</p>
<p>And these have forever replaced decorated sugar cookies in my affections.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/59515450439b18a09ac666dc49bce4b69bb99d45/original/shortbread-bites-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTc0eDM0NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="346" width="574" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Shortbread</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Yield: Approximately 50</strong></p>
<p>Cream:</p>
<p>1 lb. Unsalted butter</p>
<p>1 C Sugar (processed fine)</p>
<p>½ t Salt</p>
<p>3¾ C AP Flour</p>
<p>¼ C Cornstarch</p>
<p>Roll and cut into “fingers” approximately 1 inch wide and 2½ inches long.</p>
<p>Prick with a fork 3 times, chill until firm (or freeze).</p>
<p>Bake at 275° for 30 to 40 minutes, turning once.</p>
<p>Don’t allow shortbreads to brown!</p>
<p> </p>
<p><em>(Originally posted on December 18, 2012)</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411432016-12-11T02:38:52-05:002020-01-05T23:32:27-05:00Christmas Cookies! (Melting Moments!)
<p> </p>
<p>Mother's other "famous" Christmas cookie contribution was the "Melting Moment."</p>
<p>I know these are seriously out of fashion... but I don't care...</p>
<p>The texture is sooooooooo different from most cookies... because of the cornstarch. But it's the very, very lemony glaze that's the game changer.</p>
<p>Try them... and let me know.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/37fa5e02c485c31871594c9e75aa214a9106bb32/original/melting-moments.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTI5eDMyNyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="327" width="529" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Melting Moments</strong></p>
<p>Cream:</p>
<p>⅔ C Cornstarch</p>
<p>½ C 10X Sugar</p>
<p>1 C AP Flour</p>
<p>1 C Unsalted butter</p>
<p>Roll into balls. Chill or freeze. Bake at 325° for 15 minutes.</p>
<p>When thoroughly cooled, glaze with a smooth mixture of</p>
<p>⅛ C Unsalted butter</p>
<p>1 Cup 10X Sugar</p>
<p>2 T Fresh lemon juice</p>
<p> </p>
<p><em>(Originally posted on December 18, 2012)</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411422016-12-10T02:22:42-05:002020-01-05T23:32:27-05:00Christmas Cookies! (Snowballs!)
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1">Forgive me.</p>
<p class="p1">The switch from "after Thanksgiving" foods to Christmas prep can induce whiplash...</p>
<p class="p1">And now it's almost mid-December!</p>
<p class="p1">So let's get going, people... Over the next few days, we'll be re-posting our greatest Christmas cookie hits.</p>
<p class="p1">You're welcome!</p>
<p class="p1">(And please let me know how yours turn out!)</p>
<p>First: Snowballs! My Mother's Own...</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/016d9fefe0b680c9237f4c4c72163f419a85229d/original/snowballs.png/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MTY0eDMwMCJd.png" class="size_orig justify_left border_" alt="" height="300" width="164" /></p>
<p>I grew up in Michigan and upstate New York (and I really mean "upstate..." as in Canadian border!! Not what we refer to now as "Upstate Manhattan..."), and Toronto...</p>
<p>So Christmas means snow. And I'm one of those people who LOVES SNOW... I'll shovel, I'll scrape, I'll do whatever it takes as long as I have snow.</p>
<p>But I realize that in many, many parts of the States... usually including Yonkers... snow and Christmas are now mutually exclusive. So other than snow... there are a few things guaranteed to... get me in the mood...</p>
<p>And the greatest of these is/are... COOKIES!</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Mother was a great Christmas cookie maker. And I will now reveal to the world her recipe for snowballs. Yes, I know... every culture has a version of nutty buttery cookies rolled in powdered sugar... I just happen to think these are the best...</p>
<p> </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/d862c6c785f46f918a83a4a128ec08a7facaa79d/original/snowballs.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzIyeDIwMiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="202" width="322" /></strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Snowballs</strong></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><strong>Yield: 5-6 Dozen</strong></p>
<p>Cream:</p>
<p>1 C Unsalted butter</p>
<p>4 T 10X sugar</p>
<p>2 C AP flour</p>
<p>1 C Chopped pecans</p>
<p>2 t Pure vanilla</p>
<p>1 t Water</p>
<p>Roll into balls. Chill or freeze. Bake at 400° for 10 minutes.</p>
<p>When thoroughly cooled, roll carefully in 10X.</p>
<p><em>(Originally posted December 14, 2013)<br></em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411412016-11-29T14:00:10-05:002020-01-05T23:32:27-05:00Turkey Chili
<p> </p>
<p>So... It started out with an idea: I'd make a white chili and then add some of the remaining Thanksgiving turkey...</p>
<p class="p1">I sautéed a minced large onion for a few minutes, then added a few minced jalapeños (from our garden! yes! still!) and a ton of minced garlic. Then I diced two ribs of celery, and, after realizing I had I few various types of not hot and moderately hot peppers in the fridge, I diced them up and added them as well.</p>
<p class="p1">I let all of this sauté for a bit.</p>
<p class="p1">I tasted it. Added salt. Tasted again... and started adding "chili" flavors: ground toasted cumin and dried oregano. Now we're getting somewhere.</p>
<p class="p1">But not quite.</p>
<p class="p1">Knowing I would be adding turkey, I added some of the remaining gravy from the feast, diluted with a little water, as the liquid base. Then, in went a pound of cannellini beans I'd cooked very simply in salted water. Good!</p>
<p class="p1">But something was still lacking. And I knew my white chili was about to become beige. I wanted the recognizable familiar flavor of chili powder. So in went about two teaspoons...</p>
<p class="p1">YES! I'd found a way...</p>
<p class="p1">So I added about 2C of minced dark meat from the turkey but then, in a rather giddy moment of inspiration, I totally let go of the idea of "white chili" and decided to go one step further. I took 1/4C of cocoa powder, mixed it with enough water to make it smooth, added it to the pot, stirred it in...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/9358b4a984668ff72e2fbf33ca1b0ce1be8d8928/original/turkey-chili-1a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTgzeDQzOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="439" width="583" /></p>
<p class="p1">And now had a deep burgundy "white chili." But OMG!</p>
<p class="p1">Jackpot! Part chili, part mole, all spectacular! Deep... Smoky... Even a bit mysterious.</p>
<p class="p1">I served it in very hot bowls, topped with some diced white meat (no more cooking needed), sour cream, and minced cilantro.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8a875ab5bbbdbcae60d20d9e6da4581c119d2719/original/turkey-chili-2a.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjA0eDQ3NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="476" width="604" /></p>
<p class="p1">Wow.</p>
<p class="p1">Play with your food. It will not only surprise you, but you may just come up with a runaway hit...</p>
<p class="p1">Like this!</p>
<p><br> <br></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411402016-11-28T13:19:41-05:002020-01-05T23:32:27-05:00The Remains of the Day: Make Holiday Crêpes!
<p> </p>
<p>These two recipes are De-lightful to make, De-licious to eat, and De-lovely to serve... with your favorite turkey or ham or chicken!</p>
<p><span style="color:#003300"><span style="text-decoration:underline"><em><strong>Time Machine: Chicken Crêpes</strong></em></span></span></p>
<p>I can't really explain it...</p>
<p>OK... I could say that some of the roast chicken <strong><span style="color:#003300"><em>[or, you know, TURKEY or HAM!]</em></span></strong> was sitting in the fridge waiting to be... repurposed.</p>
<p>I could say that it was the week before Christmas and I wanted to cook everything I could think of that is the antithesis of <em>new/fast/low-fat/fusion</em>, etc.</p>
<p>I could say that, knowing we'll be working in L.A. on Christmas day, I felt the need to pamper us now... in preparation.</p>
<p>Whatever the reason, I stepped into a time machine yesterday. I made a batch of crêpes... and yes, it's true, the first one never works!</p>
<p>For a basic crêpe recipe, one need look no further than Julia... No surprise there...</p>
<p>Combine 1 C AP flour, 2/3 C water, 2/3 C milk, 3 eggs, a pinch of salt, and 3 T melted butter. A blender works well, but whisking is fine. Let it sit for at least an hour. Heat a bit of butter in a non-stick pan. Pour in 1/4 cup batter, swirl it around the pan, pour any excess back into the batter... cook for about 30 seconds... flip it over... cook a few seconds... and remove to a plate.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4fed189365b89baa634805161063d0116b7657d0/original/chicken-crepes-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mjc1eDMzNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="336" width="275" /><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/031866e41e92a9935aa30edb224c0c1c19e8fe9d/original/chicken-crepes-3-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjY4eDMzNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="335" width="268" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"> <img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8925cc3018009512c30ad30f41318b66dffd6353/original/chicken-crepes-4-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjcyeDI3OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="279" width="272" /></p>
<p>Then I made a velouté... essentially a béchamel using my roast chicken stock in place of most of the milk. Then I sautéed some finely minced onions in - wait for it - schmaltz... which I had scraped off of the roast chicken stock.</p>
<p>I deglazed with a shot of Sherry and added some frozen (no need to thaw) tiny peas. These were combined with about three-quarters of the velouté, to which I added a generous helping of cubed roast chicken and a few scrapings of nutmeg, along with some salt and pepper.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/870ae39e0818b102595664a624ff9321b19217c9/original/chicken-crepes-5-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzcweDIzMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="233" width="370" /></p>
<p>I rolled up crêpes with about 2 tablespoons of the filling, put them snugly in a buttered baking dish, topped with a bit of the remaining velouté and a dusting of microplaned Parmesan, then off they went to spend 15 to 20 minutes in a 350° oven.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/de87a8960deca4d6fc2d88e4ec584c4a0956a692/original/chicken-crepes-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mzg5eDI5NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="294" width="389" /></p>
<p>All I can say is, do this right, and you bypass <em>The Magic Pan</em> and head straight for Paris... ooo la la!!!</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b20788b33bafafa524d4e0024cc125fb26576733/original/chicken-crepes-6-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTY3eDM3OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="378" width="567" /></p>
<p><em>Originally posted on December 24, 2012</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="color:#003300"><span style="text-decoration:underline"><em><strong>Ham 'n' Cheese Crêpes with Peas 'n' Dijon</strong></em></span></span></p>
<p>So I froze the hambone, knowing full well that there was still plenty of recoverable meat...</p>
<p>And today I decided to recover it...</p>
<p>I thawed the bone, stripped the remaining meat, and cut it into very small dice. Then I made a very basic velouté with butter, flour, and chicken stock. Off the heat I added a tablespoon of Dijon, a cup of shredded cheddar, a cup of frozen peas that I'd thawed in hot tap water, and the ham. And...</p>
<p>OMG... I could eat this mixture by the spoonful!!!</p>
<p>But I won't, because I also made a batch of basic savory crêpes. <em>[See above.]</em><br></p>
<p>I rolled each crêpe around a heaping tablespoon of the filling, then placed them all in a buttered baking dish. I had reserved about 1/2 cup of the velouté (without the ham and peas), and thinned it with another 1/3 cup of the stock.</p>
<p>I poured it over the crêpes, topped it with a bit of Parmesan, put it under the broiler for a few minutes until browned and bubbling, then turned off the broiler, turned the oven to 350°, and heated it all for about 15 minutes. I served it with a shower of chives and chive blossoms.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4f4371f28f962835d2a13df246c6a70af65f0ebe/original/ham-n-cheese-crepes-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6ODAweDU5OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="598" width="800" /></p>
<p>This is the Easter that keeps on giving! These crêpes were incredible...</p>
<p>And of course, this rich, flavorful ham now costs about $.50 a serving... and I still haven't made soup!!!</p>
<p><em>Originally posted on May 30, 2014</em><br></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411392016-11-27T09:36:44-05:002020-01-05T23:32:27-05:00The Remains of the Day: Silky & Elegant Risotto Recipes with Turkey
<p> </p>
<p><span style="color:#003300"><strong><em><span style="text-decoration:underline">Turkey & Sage Risotto</span></em></strong></span></p>
<p>I love risotto. Period.</p>
<p>From my first taste YEARS ago, right up until today. But... I don't like the idea of risotto as a dumping ground. If you want to add things... there's a method. Therefore...</p>
<p>I had great turkey stock... I had beautifully cooked turkey breast... I had chopped onions... So...</p>
<p>I started as I would any risotto: I sautéed the onions in EVOO... added the Arborio rice and some chopped sage... added some white wine... and then began the gradual additions of hot turkey stock (augmented with a bit of hot water because the stock was VERY strong), and, at the last moment, I added diced turkey... then a large (2 T) piece of unsalted butter... turned off the heat and added Grana Padano.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/996b03568f822a68d40cbd89bab208cac5083658/original/turkey-risotto-with-sage-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTc2eDUzMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="533" width="576" /></p>
<p>This is comfort food to the Nth degree... and it in no way tasted like...</p>
<p>The dreaded... L WORD!!!</p>
<p><em>Originally posted on November 28, 2012</em></p>
<p><em><br></em></p>
<p><strong><span style="color:#003300"><span style="text-decoration:underline"><em>Turkey, Duxelles and Sage Risotto with White Truffle Oil</em></span></span></strong></p>
<p>Turkey Risotto... always one of my favorite dishes...</p>
<p>Though I am NOT a believer in the "dump anything in" school of risotto making!</p>
<p>Having said that, the idea of a turkey risotto with some sage and duxelles sounded pretty good, especially since I had some wonderful turkey stock on hand. </p>
<p>The duxelles should go in early, after the second or third addition of simmering stock. The sage can go in early as well... It's a hardy, hearty herb and it can withstand long cooking. But I have a little trick: I add some chopped sage early, and reserve some to toss in during the last few minutes. Try it... you'll see.</p>
<p>The turkey should go in only long enough to reheat... It is sooooo cooked already.</p>
<p>And because I have wonderful friends who give me amazing gifts, I finished this risotto off with a very, very tiny drizzle of white truffle oil. This is one case where less is indeed more.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/86cb47f237e343cae56cf07cad4f2da680575ddf/original/turkey-duxelles-risotto-with-white-truffle-oil-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDU0eDQxNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="414" width="454" /></p>
<p>Did it work? You bet! When the ingredients are good, and gently handled, the offerings after Thanksgiving can be "better than the original"!!!</p>
<p><em>Originally posted on December 7, 2013</em></p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="color:#003300"><strong><em>Check out these links for refresher courses on making perfect risotto...</em></strong></span></p>
<p><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/perfect_risotto_at_home_with_chicken_and_tarragon/" data-imported="1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/perfect_risotto_at_home_with_chicken_and_tarragon/</em></a></p>
<p><em><span style="color:#003300"><strong>And duxelles</strong></span>... <span style="color:#0000ff"><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/duxelles_shroomapalooza_3/" data-imported="1">http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/duxelles_shroomapalooza_3/</a></span></em></p>
<p><em><br></em></p>
<p><em><br></em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411382016-11-26T04:28:08-05:002020-01-05T23:32:27-05:00The Remains of the Day: It's Turkey Herder Pie! (OK, Fine... Shepherd's Pie with Turkey)
<p class="p1"> </p>
<p class="p1">So... The Remains were gloriously arrayed before me...</p>
<p class="p1">I took gravy, peas, gingered root vegetables (parsnips, turnips, carrots), dressing, balsamic pearl onions, and some diced turkey, mixed it all together, tasted it, salted and peppered it...</p>
<p class="p1">Placed it all in an ungreased baking dish, added some chopped cooked bacon, topped it with mashed potatoes (mixed with an egg )...</p>
<p class="p1">And baked it at 350 for about 30 minutes.</p>
<p class="p1" style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/333a8134c0a708cd5759e4ef71251bf94e75ac79/original/turkey-herder-pie-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTYweDQ2MSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="461" width="560" /></p>
<p class="p1">Totally new for me! This really works. And it's as satisfying as the Thanksgiving meal itself... But new!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/9acecfb2419a7c0f8eb79222d710eb286f74e7fb/original/turkey-herder-pie-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTYzeDQ2OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="469" width="563" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411372016-11-25T03:03:15-05:002020-01-05T23:32:27-05:00The Remains of the Day: A Luxurious Turkey Hash!
<p style="text-align: left;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left;">THE use... THE comfort food... using the remains of the turkey... probably my personal fave... because when all is said and done, I'm a Midwesterner who's Irish on all sides (and I do mean ALL sides).</p>
<p>Hash.</p>
<p>So this version was sautéed cubes of potato, sautéed onions and celery, the last of the white meat, cubed, some dried sage from the garden, LOTS of pepper, a bit of smoked salt, and the last few spoonsful of gravy. Topped it with some sour cream and a scattering of chopped scallions.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/9e51c75986cdeff6a5a94fb812c56603f8780f63/original/turkey-hash-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTA0eDQxNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="416" width="504" /></p>
<p>Delicious. And a fitting way to say goodbye to the Thanksgiving feast... here shown in all its glory.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/ea66a653c243fd1af6d97af4a4019c1229899db2/original/thanksgiving-dinner-2012-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjIweDQzNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="435" width="620" /></p>
<p>And now it's full steam ahead into DECEMBER!!!</p>
<p><em>Originally posted on December 14, 2012</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411362016-11-25T02:22:32-05:002020-01-05T23:32:26-05:00The Remains of the Day: Partner That Great Turkey Sandwich with Cheddar Potato Pancakes!
<p> </p>
<p>Dinner the day after Thanksgiving... ALMOST my favorite use for white meat... the only sandwich to seriously challenge the BLT for the crown... the TURKEY SANDWICH (needs a better name, though)...</p>
<p>Slices of my good homemade bread (1 cup of WW flour and 7 cups of AP), lavish slatherings of mayo... salt, pepper, and of course, Food Police Be Damned... ICEBERG LETTUCE. Perhaps a side of cranberry chutney...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/6c0c03742a5e1897292aa8900f30d827115eb965/original/turkey-sandwich-on-homemade-bread-with-potato-pancakes-and-cranberry-chutney-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDgxeDQwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="400" width="481" /></p>
<p>And this year, mashed potato cakes with scallions, cheddar, and 1 egg white. Not quite sure what it is about the turkey, mayo, iceberg combo... plus REALLY good bread... but it sure does work!</p>
<p><em>Originally posted on November 27, 2012</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411342016-11-22T13:22:41-05:002020-01-05T23:32:26-05:00The Best Turkey Sandwiches with... Crunchy Potatoes!
<p>Turkey sandwiches! One of America's great contributions to world cuisine...</p>
<p>I had homemade bread that I'd made for the dressing... I had arugula... I had mayonnaise... and white meat from the Thanksgiving turkey.</p>
<p>Perfect.</p>
<p>But one must have potato chips! And I had no interest in a trip to the store. So...</p>
<p>Mashed potato croquettes!!!</p>
<p>I sautéed a bit of scallion, added it to mashed potatoes, tossed in some chives, a bit of flour, a teaspoon of baking powder, an egg, some Parmesan, salt and pepper... Then I rolled balls of the mixture in flour, then egg, then fresh breadcrumbs (made from some day-old baguette), and fried them in EVOO until puffed and golden brown...</p>
<p>They were served alongside these perfect sandwiches with a dollop of chive sour cream...</p>
<p>Who needs potato chips?!?!?</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b09f9e0260057a8bacad4ed54686cbd82ba0b219/original/turkey-and-arugula-sandwich-on-homemade-wheat-bread-and-potato-croquettes-with-chive-sour-cream-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTI0eDM4NyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="387" width="524" /></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><em>Originally posted on December 1, 2013</em></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><em> </em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411332016-11-22T13:11:51-05:002020-01-05T23:32:26-05:00The (Best!) Remains of the Day
<p> </p>
<p>No one finishes the Thanksgiving meal.</p>
<p>There are always containers of... remaining food.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/288156147eaa22023f57709f305de3ea7c109cd2/original/leftovers-copy2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDI3eDMxNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="314" width="427" /></p>
<p>What to do? Dump everything in a pot and call it soup? YUCK.</p>
<p>Instead of thinking of <em>The L Word</em> as some "used" food you need to get rid of... I think of "them" as if I have a sous chef who's already started preparing things for me to use. Meats and vegetables can go into sauces, stuffings, "cakes," stews to top pastas or polenta... Or mashed potatoes can top Shepherd's Pie... or they can thicken soups.</p>
<p>A salad can be added to cooked greens. A piece of cooked salmon is the base for a great salmon salad... a salmon cake... or hash. And though hash has a reputation as a dumping ground for "remains," with a little care it can be better than the original dish!</p>
<p>If you have a little bit of sauce left from a meat dish, add it to some day-old rice for a totally new side. All it takes is a little imagination, and these "pre-prepared" treasures are just advanced <em>mise en place!</em></p>
<p>So... I'm starting a campaign to remove the word "leftovers" from the language... Too Much Baggage.</p>
<p>From now on it's "THE L WORD," (with apologies to my dear friends in the Lesbian community)...</p>
<p>...Or <em>The Remains of the Day!</em></p>
<p><em>(Originally posted on November 26, 2012)<br></em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411322016-11-22T13:07:39-05:002020-01-05T23:32:26-05:00The Dressing Process
<p> </p>
<p>Just cubing some homemade bread for dressing and thought I'd share...</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/20cffb77a9848d4b2b59125bce8a05fb97602481/original/dressing-cubed-homemade-bread-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTMweDM4NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="386" width="530" /></p>
<p>Please carry on...</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411312016-11-21T13:49:13-05:002020-01-21T19:17:13-05:00Happy Turkey Day from A Founding Father!
<p>HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!</p>
<p>In honor of the Founding Father who wanted the turkey to be declared our national symbol because the eagle was a bird "not of good moral character..."</p>
<p>I thought you'd get a kick out of this shot of me as Ben Franklin in the Connecticut Rep production of Theresa Rebeck's <em>O Beautiful</em> directed by Joe Hanreddy...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/47806f6164790e1b617f320e42ef0caf5411a396/original/david-as-ben-franklin-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDAweDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="400" /></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><em>Originally posted November 22, 2012</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411302016-11-21T13:16:49-05:002020-01-05T23:32:26-05:00Transform Your Homemade Bread into Dressing (And They Will Love You More Than Ever!)
<p>Dressing... Yes, I'm from Michigan and we called it "dressing" whether on the inside or the outside of the bird!</p>
<p>I went a little crazy this year, but after 8 months away from my kitchen, I think I was due. Instead of buying some baguettes and drying them out...</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c60a404f5d9baae9da1ce10c16d2f988246eb834/original/great-balls-o-dough-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjI3eDE5NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="195" width="227" /><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/884d1838746db7c1074d71f98d6c401a650b4756/original/loaves-in-the-pan-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MTg5eDE5NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="196" width="189" /></p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4e2b1e1e323383abb0791618213861c846dc446e/original/loaves-out-of-the-pan-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjE4eDIyOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="229" width="218" /><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5b1f84d48b61e22b921678a8589c94601dd81343/original/perfect-slices-of-bread-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjE5eDIyOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="229" width="219" /></p>
<p>... I made a few loaves of my hearty white bread, cubed about 2/3 of a loaf, dried it in the oven, let it sit out overnight, and then buzzed it in the food processor until it was very irregularly chopped.</p>
<p>I realize most of you aren't going to MAKE bread just for dressing... but I love bread baking...</p>
<p><em>Sidebar: Yes, I will give you my recipe for bread some day but, in the meantime, think about how the flavors of your favorite baguette or boule or sourdough from the local bakery might excite your Thanksgiving dressing! You don't need Pepperidge Farm to provide you with their crumbs!</em></p>
<p>So...</p>
<p>I added the crumbs to masses of chopped onions, celery, and fresh sage that I had sautéed in butter until softened a bit, but not browned. (I chopped 1 huge onion and about 5 stalks of celery).</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5c15e218b68703a6564387ee7cfd0720fc5eb153/original/celery-onions-and-sage-in-the-pan-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MjU4eDI4NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="286" width="258" /></p>
<p><em>Sidebar: This is a great place to save a step for the next day. Since you'll very probably make some hash over the next few days (won't you?), sauté extra sage, celery and onion and set it aside. Your hash is now about a third done!</em></p>
<p>OK, back to the dressing...</p>
<p>Make sure this mixture is well salted and peppered. Then moisten the mixture with some of the turkey stock that I KNOW you made in advance along with some melted butter (how much butter is up to you...). Place this in a well-buttered casserole, cover it with foil, and bake it for about 1/2 hour at 350° or so. Uncover it and stir a bit, occasionally, and leave the foil off for however long it takes to get to the level of dry/moist you like. (Wars are fought over the relative dryness of dressing... I know!)</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/790c7e3e80455e628958e2496917394e8c2e04b0/original/featured-player-dressing-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTQxeDM4MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="383" width="541" /></p>
<p>I've got to tell you... making dressing with homemade bread was a little crazy, but OMG was the flavor/texture amazing. And the little bit that's left will make its way into the aforementioned hash quite happily.</p>
<p><em>Originally posted on December 5, 2013</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411292016-11-20T04:46:47-05:002020-01-05T23:32:26-05:00Spatchcock That Turkey! (A Thanksgiving Flashback)
<p>OK... It's happened... I've drunk the Kool-Aid... I will quite probably never cook a turkey any other way.</p>
<p>Yesterday <em>[Thanksgiving morning!]</em>, I spatchcocked the Thanksgiving turkey!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b854394d396ae006f20f040cefacc346a94b4dd8/original/spatchcocked-turkey-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mzc4eDI0OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="248" width="378" /></p>
<p>All that actually means is...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/2e5f5d0cb672c69f8a2e2e59c31a1cd7c849f0a1/original/turkey-s-backbone-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTA0eDM4NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="386" width="504" /></p>
<p>I cut out the backbone, then made a little slit on the membrane covering the keel bone, flipped the bird over, pushed down until I heard a fairly loud snap... and then roasted it on a cookie-cooling-type rack set in a sheet pan at 450 for 85-90 minutes.</p>
<p>And that, as they say, was that.</p>
<p>Crisp mahogany skin, juicy dark AND white meat... with no basting, no flipping, no nuthin'.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3d9af4e43ba1e74ba0b893fb804d0bcd79000149/original/out-of-the-oven-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTY3eDQwNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="405" width="567" /></p>
<p>Does it look like Norman Rockwell? Absolutely not. It looks a little more like Norman Rockwell ran it over with his car... but I've never been a fan of carving the bird in the dining room anyway.</p>
<p>We had mashed potatoes, peas, cranberry chutney, sage dressing using my homemade bread (seriously... it's as big a revelation as fresh sage), and quite possibly my finest gravy to date (partly because the base was my homemade chicken stock simmered with the neck, backbone, and giblets... except the liver).</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/7f9679d933ea38e129933d5593da44ac34b243af/original/thanksgiving-42-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjEyeDQ5NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="494" width="612" /></p>
<p>A wonderful evening by the fire... a 12-pound turkey cooked in 90 minutes... How lucky can you get!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3f14f8cfc5f1f2580e48e0cf9a7e693a96eacc53/original/thanksgiving-33-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTk4eDgwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="800" width="598" /></p>
<p> <em>Originally posted on November 29, 2014</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411282016-11-19T13:15:58-05:002020-01-05T23:32:26-05:00Taking Stock of Thanksgiving 2016
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="color:#454545">I cannot believe it's already Thanksgiving!</span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="color:#454545"><br></span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="color:#454545">My elderly parents warned me about time speeding up but, like every child, I didn't believe them.</span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="color:#454545"> Guess what. They win.</span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"> </span></span><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="color:#454545"> </span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="color:#454545">All of this is to say, here come tons of Thanksgiving posts from This Old Chef! Enjoy!</span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="color:#454545">And in this time of absolute horror, be truly thankful for everything you can be thankful for!!!</span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="color:#454545"><br></span></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">Here are two posts, one that will speed things up on Thanksgiving Day... and another that will REALLY help in the days that follow!</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p><em><span style="color:#008000"><span style="text-decoration:underline">Turkey Stock, or Turkey Jello, If You Prefer</span></span></em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/4d82b1439e77c7b1ea1b35e6d138c94b0acf98ac/original/turkey-jello-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzIzeDMwNyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="307" width="323" /></p>
<p>So, how do you manage to have enough "liquid" to make turkey gravy without making everyone wait... AND without making yourself crazy during the wild last minutes of preparing the Thanksgiving feast?</p>
<p>Simple... sometime during the week before the big day... or even the MONTH before... buy a few packages of turkey parts: drumsticks, wings, necks and backs (if you can get them) and a small package of ground dark meat...</p>
<p>Brown all of it well and make a stock with celery, onions, peppercorns, and the trimmings from a bunch of fresh sage. That way, you can chill it and remove all of the fat... and it's in the fridge waiting for you turn it into gravy.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c690455e45c7c3c4fffd01963d466330e0c243a2/original/thanksgiving-prep-3-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTAxeDQxNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="416" width="501" /></p>
<p>Or you can even make the gravy itself a day or two in advance. THEN, on the day, you can add a bit of the drippings, or use a bit of the stock you saved to deglaze the roasting pan... but the gravy itself will already be done!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/ebc5f515272f90fdacb2776b8778e6ba71c70a55/original/turkey-gravy-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzYxeDI4NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="285" width="361" /></p>
<p><em>Originally posted on November 30, 2012</em></p>
<p><em><span style="color:#008000"><span style="text-decoration:underline">The Remains of the Day: Turkey Stock</span></span></em> </p>
<p>You knew it had to happen... a 12-pound turkey... two diners... There had to be some REMAINING turkey, right? I say "remaining" because I refuse to use The L Word!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/cc360d7896df9541edf582558d639997db5eab4b/original/the-turkey-2012-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mzk5eDMxMSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="311" width="399" /></p>
<p>So the first thing you do on Thanksgiving night: break up the carcass, and put it in a big stock pot with water and the trimmings from all of the onions, celery, garlic and herbs you saved as you were cooking earlier in the day...</p>
<p>Simmer this mess for about 2 hours, strain out the solids, and chill the stock. The next day, skim off the fat (which is perfectly useable... and tasty!)...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/87e115a5fe775d18ca158605362f6f3cede3f4bb/original/schmalzy-turkey-stock-resized-cropped.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzU0eDI4OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="288" width="354" /></p>
<p>and you're left with a wonderful broth that's ready for soups, curries, moistening stuffing (i.e., dressing, if you're from my neck of the woods), and 100 other uses.</p>
<p><em>Originally posted on November 27, 2012</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411272016-11-14T03:48:38-05:002020-01-05T23:32:26-05:00Chicken Schnitzel with Sautéed Rosemary Fingerling Potatoes and Steamed Cauliflower with Nutmeg
<p>I realize you must think at times that I should just change the name of this blog to “This Old Schnitzel,” since I serve and post about it so frequently. But it's never ever the same! That's one of the reasons I love it. A pinch of something here, a pinch of something else there… totally different result…</p>
<p>What made tonight's different? I cut some old baguette into cubes and then toasted them until very dry and crisp, but not too brown, in a dry skillet. Then I blitzed them in the processor and the resulting fine, dry toasted bread crumbs were wonderfully different.</p>
<p>Then, for the pan sauce, I sautéed a minced onion and a small minced garlic clove in EVOO, and added a few sprigs each of thyme, tarragon, and sage with a splash of white wine and water (yep, plain old water)… and simmered it all until reduced by about half.</p>
<p>I strained out the liquid and set it aside. Tasted. Added bit of salt and pepper.</p>
<p>The schnitzel was my basic…</p>
<p><em><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/schnitzel_redux_sandy_be_damned" data-imported="1">http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/schnitzel_redux_sandy_be_damned</a></em></p>
<p>Once it was golden brown, I removed it to a very warm plate. Then I added the reserved liquid to the hot pan, tossed in some capers, scraped the pan a bit to loosen the best bits, turned off the heat, and added a heaping tablespoon of sour cream along with some lemon zest…</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/df25772ef292a3e170f64d27e7bacd574e6dbb71/original/schnitzel-with-sauteed-fingerlings-and-steamed-cauliflower-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Njg5eDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="689" /></p>
<p>I poured this over the crispy, crunchy chicken, showered it with chopped chives, and served it alongside steamed cauliflower (with just a bit of butter, salt, and nutmeg) and a few boiled fingerlings that I'd sliced in half lengthwise and sautéed until dark gold in EVOO, salt, pepper, and, just before serving, 2t finely minced fresh rosemary.</p>
<p>That, my friends, is a dinner!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411262016-11-07T02:14:39-05:002020-01-21T19:17:10-05:00Ris-ella Pae-sotto? (Paella Risotto!)
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">OK, let's just call it Paella-flavored Risotto.</span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"> </span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">Let me explain.</span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">My best friend rarely gets to the correct coast. So, when she does, celebration is in order. I always ask her for menu requests and, this time, one of her requests was risotto.</span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">Great! Love it! Have all of the ingredients in the house!</span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">But. The hallmark of a good cook, to my mind, is rolling with the punches... And the punch, this time, was great. In the test kitchen's weekly kitchen fridge clean-out, I acquired 5 shrimp, a bone-in chicken breast, some Spanish-style chorizo, herbs, a lemon, and other delights too numerous to name.</span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">So I suggested a risotto, flavored like a paella. She was game... So off I went!</span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">I boned and skinned the chicken breast. I put the skin and bones in a pan with some onion, water, peppercorns, and frozen trimmings from the freezer, and made a stock. I cut the chicken breast into chunks, barely cooked them in EVOO, and set them aside.</span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">Next, I barely poached the shrimp, strained off the liquid, and added it to the already simmering stock. Then I set it aside.</span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"> </span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">I sliced two of the chorizo into half-inch rounds and browned them a bit in EVOO. Set them aside.</span></span><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><br> </span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">Then I began to make a basic risotto, sautéing diced onion and garlic in EVOO for about three minutes, adding arborio rice and sautéing for another minute, adding a generous 1/2C white wine, etc. You know the drill...</span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/perfect_risotto_at_home_with_chicken_and_tarragon/</em></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"> </span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">As the risotto reached the halfway point (10 minutes or so), I added smoked paprika, smoked salt, and black pepper. I would normally have added red pepper flakes as well, but Deb is NOT a spicy food gal.</span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">I finely diced some rosemary: not too much... it really can taste like a pine tree if you're not careful...</span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><em> </em></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><em>(Sidebar: In the '80s, some friends invited us to dinner. They planned to grill a pizza. They fought over how much rosemary to include. He cautioned restraint, she won. It was like a turpentine pizza. They have since divorced.)</em></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"> </span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">When the risotto was about a minute away from being done, I added the chicken, shrimp, and chorizo back in, along with a handful of frozen peas and some non-traditionally delicious lima beans... let them reheat... turned off the flame...</span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: center; margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5b67d2430ad0bcf457532af80979ee5114251583/original/paella-risotto.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTYxeDQ3MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="470" width="561" /><br></span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">Very warm bowls. Sprinkled with chives. To table...</span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px">A new favorite is born!</span></span></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><span style="margin:0px"><span style="margin:0px"><br></span></span></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411252016-10-30T04:25:17-04:002020-01-05T23:32:25-05:00Chicken Pot Pie
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;">So, you roasted a chicken.</p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> <br></p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;">You made some vegetables to go along.</p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;">You made a gravy.</p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;">You didn't eat all of it...</p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;">POT PIE!!!</p>
<p style="margin: 0px; text-align: center;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px; text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/193a6a0c8acb7a26c8f66e2287ffc7777d6ca3c2/original/chicken-pot-pie-21.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTM0eDQwMSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="401" width="534" /><br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px; text-align: center;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;">Now, just in case you haven't roasted a chicken yet... I love the Bittman Method: </p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/easiest_roast_chicken_and_its_aftermath/</em></p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;">And, just in case you're looking for mouthwatering meals anchored by that fabulous roast chicken, consider these soul-warming feasts:</p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/da73115cce0236c862d2d628990dacd602e25ec1/original/roast-chicken-with-colcannon-and-asparagus-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTE0eDM2NyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="367" width="514" /></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><em><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/st_patricks_day_feast_roast_chicken_with_colcannon_asparagus_and_soda_bread/" data-imported="1">http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/st_patricks_day_feast_roast_chicken_with_colcannon_asparagus_and_soda_bread/</a></em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/84cd2070cc030114081b757424d6518be8bff25a/original/roast-chicken-with-gravy-dressing-and-oven-roasted-potatoes-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTEzeDM0MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="343" width="513" /></em></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/comfort_food_high_roast_chicken_with_gravy_dressing_and_ovenroasted_potatoes/</em></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">OK, so now that you're ready with a platter of some of the best roast chicken you've ever had...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/fee0014835ce1e6c19443104c1cecb85c2c4435e/original/another-roast-chicken-2-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzczeDMwNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="306" width="373" /></p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Dice and/or shred the remaining chicken. </p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;">Add all of the remaining veg, whatever it is. If you don't have enough, toss in some frozen peas. Add the remaining gravy.</p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;">If you don't have enough gravy, reward yourself by making some...</p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;">... Béchamel... which is equal parts butter and flour cooked for about 3 minutes on low, to which I add milk. Choose just how thick you want the sauce, but 3T each butter and flour to 1½ C of milk is a good place to start. Or...</p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;">Make some velouté... which is really just a béchamel using stock instead of milk or cream.</p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;">Taste. If needed, add salt, pepper, herbs... Up to you.</p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> <br></p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;">Put this mixture in an oven-proof skillet or a Pyrex-type dish, and top with whatever-sized dollops of biscuit dough you like...</p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"><em>(http://thisoldchef.com/blog.html/everything_you_need_to_know_about_biscuits</em>)</p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;">Bake in a preheated 450 oven for about 10 minutes, or until the biscuits are done...</p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: center; margin: 0px;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/93064263c7768aae5ffdccf458067860053f66b7/original/chicken-pot-pie-11.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTEzeDM0MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="343" width="513" /></p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;">Eat. Remember your childhood. Smile.</p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;">For crisp and comforting in a completely different way, here's my take on a more traditional chicken pot pie:</p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: center; margin: 0px;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/7d6097971164e9388d267f70c074a9b1a7e1f0d9/original/chicken-pot-pie-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTgxeDQ1NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="456" width="581" /></p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/chicken_pot_pie_yes_really/</em></p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left; margin: 0px;"> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411232016-10-24T07:18:48-04:002020-01-21T19:17:08-05:00Everything You Need to Know About Biscuits
<p> </p>
<p>As we were eating a Sunday breakfast of homemade biscuits and homemade sausage...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/397b35fadf1f51e05ee97233b657f9073b436c24/original/sausage-biscuits.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTk2eDQzMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="433" width="596" /></p>
<p>We realized that I've never actually given you a "biscuit primer..."</p>
<p>I have tried scores of biscuit recipes over the past <em>(cough cough)</em> years, and I always return to the Ur text: The Joy of Cooking.</p>
<p>So, with all credit to Mmes. Rombauer and Becker, I combine...</p>
<p>1 3/4 C unbleached all-purpose flour</p>
<p>1/2 t salt</p>
<p>2t baking powder</p>
<p>1t sugar</p>
<p>1/2 t baking soda</p>
<p>Then I cut in 1/4 C lard.</p>
<p>Yes, you heard me.</p>
<p><em>(Trust me, please... Lard is not the evil The Food Police want you to believe it is. If you have access to an Italian pork store, fresh lard is a snowy revelation...</em></p>
<p><em>Also, there is a truism... and it really IS true: Butter goes ON biscuits, not IN biscuits.)</em></p>
<p>I say "cut in" but, in reality, I crumble the fat into the flour mixture with my fingertips, until it looks like wet sand.</p>
<p>Then I pour in 3/4 C buttermilk.</p>
<p><em>(</em><em>Now, unless you keep buttermilk on hand all of the time, try my go-to version, which is </em><em>3/4 C whole milk with a splash of white vinegar. </em><em>L</em><em>et it sit and it will "clabber!")</em> </p>
<p>Barely mix this. Don't work the dough.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5948901593736f1e1b5fd7ce1c80706d3e5dec0b/original/biscuits-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDQ5eDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="449" /></p>
<p>Now. You have two or three choices here: pinch off dough the size you want, or roll it and cut out the biscuits.</p>
<p>OR... and this is what I've been doing lately... Do the Mock Puff-Pastry Version!</p>
<p>Roll the dough out a bit...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/79a465bdac1f6d4b5061aff12f267df08a87ff00/original/biscuits-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTgzeDQzNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="434" width="583" /></p>
<p>Fold the top down... and the bottom up and over...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8ac3ff9f03c80785e1caea13676e872f206f6ec4/original/biscuits-3.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTgzeDQzNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="434" width="583" /></p>
<p>Roll it a bit again...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c498a341a396685c973281fb3a2fa3dc60734a65/original/biscuits-4.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTgzeDQzNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="434" width="583" /></p>
<p>Do the folds again...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/6fd6bf3b36a1e961180ef64e332c78aa1918b0f2/original/biscuits-5.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTgzeDQ4NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="484" width="583" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/2fb8ed1298e0d8e5bdeacd6018e54948c6978312/original/biscuits-6.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTgzeDQ4NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="484" width="583" /></p>
<p>And roll it out a bit more this time, until it's about 1/3-1/2 inch thick.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a1c66cb5dffb48bf489c80af4e7c534f1fe7cdd8/original/biscuits-7-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTkyeDM4MSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="381" width="592" /></p>
<p>Cut the biscuits...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5a650c2e32ecce9e6016c5a0344dd16369056a6f/original/biscuits-8-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTg0eDQ0OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="449" width="584" /></p>
<p>And place the biscuits on a Silpat or parchment-lined baking sheet.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/fae997548b0def405df6a6b25a9079dc952dec48/original/biscuits-9.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTg0eDQ2NyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="467" width="584" /></p>
<p>Bake in a pre-heated 450 oven for 10-12 minutes, rotating the tray halfway through.</p>
<p>You will love this recipe. You will love these biscuits.</p>
<p>PS. You can make them small...</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/1a04de2accdbdf32494e6e8457ff109349db052e/original/breakfast-biscuits-1.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzE2eDUyMSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="521" width="716" /></p>
<p>Or large...</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3248d2949a0973fb545bf1ba61164554ea0d6f91/original/biscuits-10.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzE2eDYwOCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="608" width="716" /></p>
<p>You'll just have to pay attention to changing the baking time. For regular medium-sized biscuits (approximately 12 biscuits), 10-12 minutes works.</p>
<p><em> </em></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411242016-10-12T02:46:53-04:002020-01-21T19:17:09-05:00Thai Basil Pesto Pasta
<p> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">As the summer herb season starts to wind down...</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> (NOOOOOO!!!!!)</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">... I have an abondanza of Thai basil.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">I realize that may not be a problem many of you have.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">So we wondered if there was any point in making a Thai basil pesto...</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> Cheese, of course, was a no-no. Even so, why not try it? If it wasn't a good topping for pasta, it could certainly work as a flavoring (for a curry... or a soup...).</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> In the processor, I blitzed about 1 1/2 C Thai basil leaves, 1/2 C dry roasted peanuts, 6-10 cloves garlic, 2 chopped fresh dragon cayenne peppers, 2t (or more) good fish sauce, 1 T good soy sauce, some lime zest and lime juice, and about 1T molasses (brown or white sugar would be fine, too).</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">Then I poured in some EVOO and kept processing. <em>(Always take a moment to taste and adjust, remembering that this is going to sauce a pound of pasta with just a bit left.)</em> In a large pasta bowl, I placed about 3/4 of the pesto, added 1/3 C pasta water, and the <em>al dente</em> pasta, and mixed well.</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px; text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/eb4ccce4ea8fc2e761cd8b490d5f00f3b971ae6b/original/thai-basil-pesto-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTQweDQwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="400" width="540" /><br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">To serve, I topped with a bit more lime zest. All sorts of wonderful Thai flavors and aromas are released by the heat!</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">This was Flat Out Great. Try it. Trust me.</p>
<p> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><br></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411222016-09-21T14:27:23-04:002020-01-05T23:32:24-05:00Risotto-Style Chicken & Mushroom Pasta
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">I made a huge batch of chicken stock the other day, so huge, in fact, that I was having trouble finding space in the freezer for all of it. I began to think of interesting ways to utilize some of the stock.</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">I also had a pound of "on sale" button mushrooms I needed to use, as well as a bit of roast chicken...</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/easiest_roast_chicken_and_its_aftermath/</em><br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">Pasta seemed the way to go... But for the stock... Stock with pasta? Pasta with stock???</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">Then I remembered reading about pasta toasted in a bit of oil and then cooked with risotto-style additions of broth.</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">BINGO!</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> <br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">I cleaned and sliced the mushrooms, saving the stems for the next batch of stock.</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> <br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">Diced one of the roast chicken breasts.</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> <br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">Microplaned some garlic, minced some sage and two dragon cayennes. (Boy, do I love a yard full of peppers and herbs!)</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">Took a pound of dried fettuccine and broke it into quarters.</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> <br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">Sautéed the mushrooms in a splash of EVOO, removed them, then added an other splash of EVOO and toasted the pasta pieces until they JUST BARELY started to color. Added a bit of smoked salt, and pepper.</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> <br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">Then, as with risotto, in went a hefty splash of white wine... And I was stirring constantly... Then<span style="margin:0px"> additions of hot stock, a</span>pproximately 1/2 C at a time.</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">OK, you take it from here...</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">Stir. Often. Add more stock when the pan looks dry. Add garlic and sage in small increments.</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">(I love adding things in stages. You get different layers of flavors when things are added not all at once, but over time. Of course, this means you have to Taste As You Go!)</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">When the pasta is not quite done, add the chicken and mushrooms and any juices from the mushrooms, along with any remaining garlic and sage and about half of the dragon cayenne. Just let the chicken warm through... and the rest of the flavors marry.</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">Serve on a seriously warmed plate... With a light dusting of Parmigiano... A judicious garnish of the remaining sliced cayenne... And, just because the yard's full of them (ours and yours, right?)... A nice sprinkle of chopped chives.</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/132c919593bdb3b5ba84155c6591361c1dacc11e/original/risotto-style-chicken-mushroom-pasta-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzAweDU1MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="550" width="700" /><br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">The first bite may make you wonder if that risotto-like stirring of pasta for 15 minutes was worth it. But, by the second bite, you may reconsider making pasta any other way. The subtle but enormous richness of pasta cooked in stock like this becomes almost overwhelming!</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> <br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">This ended up being one of those dinners. We lingered, talking... for a very long time. That happens when the food is so deeply, surprisingly good that each mouthful seems punctuated with a whispered "Oh My God."</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> <br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">Try this... This way. Then, next time, play with the herbs, maybe play with the meat... smoked salt or regular... I suppose you could even go vegetarian. But if you do, PLEASE make your own vegetable stock. I have yet to taste a good store-bought one.</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> <br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">But seriously... Make this! You'll thank me! I can still taste it...</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> <br></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411212016-09-06T03:32:26-04:002020-01-21T19:17:06-05:00Heirloom Tomato Caprese Panini with Very Old-Fashioned Potato Salad
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">It has been a truly bizarre summer, tomato-wise. Gorgeous, huge plants, lots of fruit, but almost none have yet ripened... and it's September! Oh well. Tomatoes are often finicky...</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">One beautiful beefsteak did appear ripe the other night. Not enough for a Caprese, but enough for panini for two!</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/07a1cf711c8ce903e45a4bc8e96a96eccf994680/original/caprese-panini-with-potato-salad.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjczeDU0MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="540" width="673" /></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><br></p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">So I split some baguette... layered tomato, salt, basil, and mozzarella... oiled the outsides with EVOO... placed them in a hot grill pan... and mashed them with a heavy cast iron pan. Three or so minutes later, I flipped them and mashed again... cooked another 2-3 minutes, sliced and served.</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p style="margin: 0px;">Alongside was my mother's oh-so-simple potato salad: small diced celery, larger diced boiled Idaho potatoes, mayo, salt and pepper. Not fancy, not herby, not German. Just basic and delicious. Happy Summer!</p>
<p style="margin: 0px;"><br></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411202016-08-29T02:49:41-04:002020-01-05T23:32:24-05:00Chicken, Mushroom and Tarragon Pizza with Chopped Chives and Dragon Cayenne
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">As you all know, I firmly believe that a well-made, well-thought-out pizza is, seriously, health food. If you don't drown it in cheese or frequently use pounds of preserved meats... you're golden.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> <br></p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">Big sale on mushrooms... Some chicken breast that needed to be used... and a yard filled with tarragon and peppers...</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">I cleaned and sliced a pound of white button mushrooms, sautéed them in EVOO until they just started to soften, and set them aside. Then cut the tail end of a chicken breast into small dice, sautéed it in the remaining EVOO until barely pink on the inside, and set it aside...</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">Next I minced about 5 cloves of garlic and one dragon cayenne... sautéed until fragrant... set aside. I combined the garlic, chicken, and mushrooms, added a tablespoon of chopped tarragon and some chopped chives, covered the prepared pizza dough...</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><em> (http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/basic_pizza_dough/)...</em></p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">...topped it all with about 1/3 C shredded mozzarella and less than 1/4 C Parmigiano - really, no more necessary - a little dusting of coarse salt, and baked...</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> After you take it out to let it rest (YES, you must, at least 5 minutes), liberally sprinkle the pizza with more chopped chives and a bit more chopped cayenne...</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/7da37e1f28e778758bf9e256ac237f251923a9cd/original/chicken-mushroom-tarragon-pizza-with-chopped-chives-and-dragon-cayenne-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzE0eDUyNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="526" width="714" /><br></p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">This is reeeeeeeeeally good. Meaty mushrooms, perfect bites of chicken and cheese, and the bright heat of cayenne and herbs...</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">What are you waiting for?</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><br></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411192016-08-18T14:54:23-04:002020-01-05T23:32:24-05:00Omelette aux Herbes and Cucumber Herb Salad with Pumpkinseed Oil and Toasted Breadcrumbs
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">Grotesque heat.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">Very little interest in major cooking.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> And my mind started to wander in the direction of France.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> <br></p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">An herb omelette with an herb and cucumber salad. White wine. What could be easier or better on a hot night.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> <br></p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">I went to the garden, picked a cucumber... then picked chives, basil, thyme, oregano, tarragon.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> <br></p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">About 1/3 C of the mixed herbs - finely chopped - were set aside for the omelette. The rest were roughly chopped for the salad. I peeled and seeded the cuke, diced it, then added it to the herbs. I dressed this salad with home-smoked salt, pumpkinseed oil, and sherry vinegar.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> <br></p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">I whisked 6 eggs... added salt and pepper... heated some butter in a non-stick pan on high heat <em>(Yes, really. High heat. Trust me.)</em>... added the eggs... stirred rapidly... lowered the heat to as low as possible... kept stirring... lifted the edges and allowed the still-liquid eggs to slide under the cooked edges... placed the pan under the broiler until the top was just barely set... took it out of the oven... added a bit of Irish cheddar cheese and the finely minced herbs... and folded the omelette in half.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> Now, just so you know, I hate browned eggs. I think a perfectly pale omelette is the gold standard. Since there were two of us, I cut it in half, plated it alongside the salad, topped the salad with some toasted breadcrumbs...</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">Poured some white wine...</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">And decided that the French may know something after all.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a151493096b678ca78167ede886fa6e085e30325/original/omelette-aux-fines-herbes.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjgweDUwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="500" width="680" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411182016-08-14T14:37:23-04:002020-01-21T19:17:05-05:00Grilled Salmon with Lime Butter Sauce and Dill Pasta Salad
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">Big Salmon Sale.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> I had limes, garlic, and butter at home.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> <br></p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">I sliced the salmon into 2 pieces... about 1/4 pound each. The grill pan was pre-heated to REALLY hot. I brushed the flesh side with EVOO and sprinkled some home-smoked salt on top, carefully placed the fillets in the pan (oiled side down), grilled for about 3.5 minutes, oiled the skin side, and carefully flipped them. The second side only needed to cook for about a minute. (Salmon does not like being overlooked... trust me!)</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> I had melted a few tablespoons of unsalted butter with a small microplaned garlic clove. I plated the salmon, poured the butter on top, and microplaned some lime zest over the top.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><br></p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">As an accompaniment, I indulged in the only pasta salad we like (not generally big on pasta salads in this house). This was one I learned hundreds of years ago while doing summer stock in Canada: pasta cooked a little past al dente, rinsed and cooled, mixed with mayonnaise, lemon juice and zest, a couple of tablespoons of chopped dill, and a ton of fresh ground black pepper.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">Satisfaction guaranteed!</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><br></p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/1d0cd4cc646613c4773f0b7677e56b9b2bb6f039/original/grilled-salmon-with-dill-pasta-salad-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjAweDUwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="500" width="600" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411172016-08-07T14:46:17-04:002020-01-05T23:32:24-05:00Faux Pad Thai (Thai Pork and Rice Noodles)
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">OK... I was reeeeally in the mood for Thai... and I had the opportunity to hit the local H Mart...</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">So I was thinking pad Thai... Or something.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">And this is what I came up with!</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">I took 1 lb. of ground pork, microplaned a lot of ginger and garlic on it, added red pepper flakes, a bit of soy sauce, and a bit of fish sauce... and let that sit for a while.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><br></p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">In a small saucepan, I sautéed more microplaned garlic and ginger in a bit of oil, then added some coconut milk, sugar, fish sauce, and a few tablespoons of ground peanuts...</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">I stir-fried the marinated pork with the chopped white parts of 4 scallions, and added some minced mint leaves. And while all of this was going on, I poured boiling water over some rice noodles... waited two minutes... and then drained them.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">I added the rice noodles to the pork.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">Serve this on hot plates, and sprinkle with chopped peanuts, cilantro, and a little lime juice and or zest.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"> </p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;">And marvel at Thai flavors. Faux or no.</p>
<p style="margin: 0in 0in 0pt;"><br></p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5afe8c8a19bd560bd74e73adca96d1c28eeb6ab8/original/faux-pad-thai.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjAweDUwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="500" width="600" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411162016-07-14T14:21:59-04:002020-01-05T23:32:23-05:00A Very, Very Spring Risotto with Asparagus, Peas, and Chives with Sweet Lime Juice
<p> </p>
<p>Yes, yes, it's July, but this is a luscious, simple Springtime dish that's equally refreshing in Summer! </p>
<p>So, back in March, after drooling over my good friend Daniel Gritzer's Risotto alla Milanese posted on Serious Eats...</p>
<p><em>(<a href="http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2016/03/risotto-alla-milanese-saffron-recipe.html" data-imported="1">http://www.seriouseats.com/recipes/2016/03/risotto-alla-milanese-saffron-recipe.html</a>)</em></p>
<p>... I absolutely had to make risotto. But I was also really in the mood for a dish that screamed Spring. I barely cooked some asparagus in salted water, and then shocked it in ice water.</p>
<p>Then I made my basic risotto...</p>
<p><em>(</em><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/perfect_risotto_at_home_with_chicken_and_tarragon/" data-imported="1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/perfect_risotto_at_home_with_chicken_and_tarragon/</em></a><em>)</em><br><br>At the last moment, I added frozen baby peas, the barely cooked asparagus (sliced), some great Irish butter, a splash of sweet lime juice (do you know about sweet limes yet?), a handful of Parmigiano... and topped it with a shower of powerful early Spring chives from the garden. (But Summer chives work, too!)</p>
<p>All I can say is... amazing. A satisfying welcome to Spring, a delightful celebration of Summer.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/59a2d6371540f2cf0249ceff93ece4b2771a3b19/original/spring-risotto-with-asparagus-peas-and-chives.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjU3eDU4OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="588" width="657" /><br><br>PS. I am in love with my saucier... a gift from a friend cleaning out his kitchen... and perfect for making risotto.</p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411152016-06-29T15:12:42-04:002020-01-05T23:32:23-05:00Shrimp in Parsley, Garlic and Scallion Sauce over White Rice
<p>Here's my simple, flavorful riff on Mark Bittman's shrimp with green sauce...</p>
<div></div>
<p>In the food processor, I blitzed a large handful of parsley leaves and lots of garlic and a few chopped scallions (green and white parts). Then I fed in a good glug of EVOO... continued to process... added salt and pepper and a few pinches of red pepper flakes.</p>
<p>I poured this over enough shrimp for two (12 for us), let it sit a bit, and then gently sautéed it until just barely pink all over <em>(I know you know that overcooking shrimp is a cardinal sin)</em>. Then I spooned this elegant, emerald sauce over very hot rice on very warm plates. </p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/29a32fb1ffc9c3829339749a6b3f9a5e86a917f9/original/shrimp-in-parsley-garlic-and-scallion-sauce-over-white-rice-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Njc3eDQ2NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="464" width="677" />
</p>
<p>Amazing. Simple.</p>
<p>Packs a huge wallop.</p>
<p>Really worth trying.</p>
<p>What're you waiting for???</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411142016-06-16T14:54:24-04:002020-01-05T23:32:23-05:00Kimchi Gochujang Burgers (Yes, I'm Serious...)
<p> </p>
<p>One night during this year's ridiculously warm winter... it was really cold. And, as usual, everyone we came in contact with seemed to have a cold. So, a Korean cure... garlic, hot pepper, and something fermented... seemed appropriate!</p>
<div></div>
<p>Into 2/3 pound of good ground beef, I folded 1/4C good cabbage kimchi, chopped... 2 large garlic cloves, microplaned... 1T gochujang... a healthy pinch of red pepper flakes... and small dashes of Worcestershire sauce and soy sauce...</p>
<p>Mix gently. Form into burgers. Cook in your preferred manner (I still use my mother's method: a red hot cast-iron pan dusted with salt)...</p>
<p><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/oldfashioned_burger_method/" data-imported="1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/oldfashioned_burger_method/</em></a></p>
<p>Since we were being vaguely Asian, I served this with rice.</p>
<p>And I doctored up the ketchup with sriracha and grated fresh horseradish from the garden!!! So easy to grow (the horseradish, not the sriracha) and so beautiful in the yard!</p>
<p><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/better_than_the_bottle_horseradish/" data-imported="1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/better_than_the_bottle_horseradish/</em></a></p>
<p>This was soooooo much fun to eat. And next time, I think I'll even up the amount of kimchi! Whatever the weather, this is a great, fantastically flavorful meal!</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/ec0acc0e6fd4ac10e499a75891abc71610555eba/original/kimchi-burgers-on-rice.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjYyeDU1MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="553" width="662" />
</p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411132016-06-07T05:29:57-04:002020-01-21T19:17:03-05:00A Ridiculously Good, Rich, Chicken Schnitzel with Bacon, Mushroom and Thyme Sauce
<p>You all know by now just how cheap... I mean, frugal... I am.</p>
<p>So. Huge sales on potatoes, chicken, mushrooms, and bacon... And the recovering herb garden revealed thyme that had survived the winter. Add that to tiny bottles of decadent truffle oil given to us by our dear friends Cindy and Bruce, and this over-the-top meal was basically free!</p>
<p>OK. Not free. But you get it.</p>
<p>I made my basic schnitzel...</p>
<p><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/schnitzel_redux_sandy_be_damned/" data-imported="1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/schnitzel_redux_sandy_be_damned/</em></a></p>
<p>Then I cubed three Idaho-type potatoes, and nuked them for about 7 minutes in water, then drained them and sautéed them until crispy and golden.</p>
<p>Prior to all of this, I sautéed a chopped shallot in EVOO... then added 2 cloves of garlic, microplaned... put that in a bowl... and used the same small pan to sauté 4 sliced mushrooms and 2 rashers of bacon <em>(I didn't drain the fat afterwards. Next time I will!)</em>. I placed the shallot and mushroom mixtures together in the pan and added a good splash of white wine, reduced it, added about 2t thyme leaves <em>(no need to chop)</em>, and then a good splash of cream. I tasted for salt and pepper... and the sauce was ready!</p>
<p>On two REALLY warm plates, place a mound of those beautiful potatoes... sprinkle with truffle oil... then position the chicken... portion out the sauce on top of part of the breast... lightly shower the plate with more thyme leaves...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/93f266234b832d070d56e8f4ad7ebc31e60aaf1f/original/chicken-schnitzel-with-bacon-mushroom-thyme-sauce-and-sauteed-diced-potatoes.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjA4eDQyNyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="427" width="608" /></p>
<p>Then die and go to heaven.</p>
<p>Not an everyday dinner, but a great, rich splurge. We sat at table for ages and talked...</p>
<p>The real test of an exquisite meal!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411122016-05-30T02:02:44-04:002020-01-05T23:32:23-05:00Grilled Tuna with Pickled Ginger and Garlic-Ginger-Scallion Rice
<p>Early on in his recovery, I realized that, the next day, I was about to be away for most of the day... for the first time since surgery. So I thought the patient deserved a special meal...</p>
<p>There happened to be a huge sale on wild-caught tuna at Stew's... and one of his favorite meals is the Asian-marinated grilled tuna from the first <em>Union Square Café Cookbook</em>...</p>
<p><em><a href="http://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/3441-union-square-cafes-marinated-filet-mignon-of-tuna" data-imported="1">http://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/3441-union-square-cafes-marinated-filet-mignon-of-tuna</a></em></p>
<p>And since I was going to HMart anyway...</p>
<p><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/my_version_of_korean_fried_chicken_with_gochujang_kimchi_and_shanghai_bok_choy/" data-imported="1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/my_version_of_korean_fried_chicken_with_gochujang_kimchi_and_shanghai_bok_choy/</em></a></p>
<p>... I knew I'd be able to find good prices on pickled ginger, ginger, garlic and scallions!</p>
<p>The recipe calls for teriyaki sauce, but I always skip that and use soy, sherry, garlic, and ginger instead.</p>
<p>Trust me.</p>
<p>I served it with brown rice that I cooked with micro-planed ginger and garlic, along with some sliced scallions. When it was done, I added some chopped roasted red pepper I had in the fridge.</p>
<p>On top of the grilled tuna: a few slices of pickled ginger.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/9b5f4f67c7b3723275181a97a42b4c2366e85c29/original/grilled-tuna-with-pickled-ginger-and-garlic-ginger-scallion-rice-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTQxeDQ0NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="445" width="541" /></p>
<p>This is a remarkably flavorful tuna dish. It may not be the "newest..." but it's certainly one of the best.</p>
<p>The strong flavors DO NOT overpower or mask the tuna...</p>
<p>They enhance it...</p>
<p>Try it, you'll like it!</p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411102016-05-21T08:00:00-04:002020-04-14T16:13:23-04:00Hearty Variations on Heirloom Bean Soup with... (1) Cilantro, (2) Rice, Sour Cream & Cilantro, and (3) Roast Chicken & Pesto Panini!<p> </p>
<p>After making that spectacular ham chili...</p>
<p><em><a contents="" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/ham-chili-with-heirloom-beans" style="" target="_blank">https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/ham-chili-with-heirloom-beans</a></em></p>
<p>I still had some of the glorious heirloom beans given to me by Deb Stenard remaining... and it turned cold again...</p>
<p>So soup seemed a reasonable direction to head in!</p>
<p>I sautéed a chopped onion, added a bit of garlic, and some ground cumin. Then, in went the remaining beans (about a cup and a half) with their liquid. This stewed for a long time, until the beans started to break down.</p>
<p>In went a splash of sherry. Then I "immersion blender-ed" it all until smooth, and added the last of the whole cooked beans... checked for salt... added a splash of hot sauce... Simply delicious.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/73c2cb65008edfc59e8936e12dd4a6ec22e1a250/original/heirloom-bean-soup-with-cilantro.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjA2eDU4OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="589" width="606" /></p>
<p>A few days later, we'd both worked brutal days and I was relieved to get home, open the fridge, and see not only this rich, flavorful soup, but also some already cooked brown rice from dinner the night before. No Brainer! I served the soup over the rice with a dollop of sour cream and a few leaves of cilantro. Yum!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/80ac7365510fdb0edaf5d9b83e391938cfe70457/original/heirloom-bean-rice-soup-with-sour-cream-and-cilantro.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjA3eDUwNyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="507" width="607" /></p>
<p><em>(NB. Any time soup seems too thick to you, add a splash of water, or stock, or even milk.)</em></p>
<p>For the Grand Finale, on a night when there wasn't quite enough soup left to serve as dinner on its own, I sliced some baguette in half... layered slices of roast chicken, sliced mozzarella, pesto, salt and pepper...</p>
<p>Brushed the bread with EVOO... Placed it in a hot grill pan... Weighted it with another heavy pan...</p>
<p>OK, a panini press would work...</p>
<p>Flipped it and grilled some more...</p>
<p>This soup-and-sandwich beats basic grilled cheese top to bottom!!!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/e61a8be50c3ceaa6183b12260fab4470e409543c/original/roast-chicken-pesto-panini-and-bean-soup-with-sour-cream-and-cilantro-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjE2eDQ1NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="456" width="616" /></p>
<p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411112016-05-15T11:34:16-04:002020-01-05T23:32:23-05:00Spring Breakfast! (Slow-Scrambled Eggs with Cheddar, Chives, Chive Blossoms, and Biscuits)
<p> </p>
<p>Don't laugh!</p>
<p>I know the picture is kind of "precious."</p>
<p>But I love that moment in early spring when I have tons of chives in the garden... along with a plethora of chive blossoms. Softly, slowly scrambled eggs with a little cheddar, biscuits, sunshine and coffee!!!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/eac4b0ffed5550d7e3cd7da9575aa9fa9ea0b390/original/biscuits-and-scrambled-eggs-with-cheese-chives-and-chive-blossoms.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjI0eDU2MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="562" width="624" /></p>
<p>Happy Sunday!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/baaead10b00a58fb4235c5bd425ff9043bd68d15/original/sunday-biscuits.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjMyeDQ4MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="483" width="632" /></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411062016-04-22T13:54:48-04:002020-01-05T23:32:23-05:00Garlic Rosemary Chicken Schnitzel with Spanish Cauliflower "Rice"
<p style="text-align: left;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left;">I had chopped up some peppers and scallions the other day for some falafel I was making...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/a_festival_of_falafel/" data-imported="1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/a_festival_of_falafel/</em></a></p>
<p>...and I didn't use them all. I also had a bit of canned tomato that I hadn't used for a second falafel dinner!</p>
<p>Organic chicken breasts were wildly cheap, as were cauliflowers <em>(I am loving the cauliflower sales lately...).</em> We had jumped the season a bit and bought a lovely new rosemary plant to replace the one that not only didn't do well last year, it didn't even survive a ridiculously warm winter... Go Figure.</p>
<p>I was feeling a little Spanish, so I sautéed the peppers and scallions with a minced onion in EVOO. I tossed in a bit of my home-smoked salt...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/18dd2dd42a33ff82a3532fa5bbf5c4fba5b9f99f/original/smoked-salt.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjAyeDQ2MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="460" width="602" /></p>
<p>...and some home-smoked paprika along with some of the tomatoes... kept sautéing... added a splash of sherry. This all went into a bowl to cool.</p>
<p>I made basic cauliflower rice...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/grilled_salmon_with_maple_mustard_glaze_cauliflower_rice_and_peas/" data-imported="1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/grilled_salmon_with_maple_mustard_glaze_cauliflower_rice_and_peas/</em></a></p>
<p>...and, when the cauliflower was almost done, I tossed in the pepper mixture and heated it through.</p>
<p>Then I made my basic chicken schnitzel...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/schnitzel_redux_sandy_be_damned/" data-imported="1">http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/schnitzel_redux_sandy_be_damned/</a></p>
<p>and when the breasts were done, I held them in a warm oven... deglazed the pan with white wine... then added chicken stock, minced garlic, a few capers, and some minced fresh rosemary. At the last moment - off heat - I swirled in some cold butter.</p>
<p>This is a really fun combination that, while not actually Spanish, really does evoke the fresh Mediterranean and smoky-spicy Middle-Eastern flavors that epitomize <em>la cocina Española!</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a31247a3658ff70a280a30c8b47cb162f04473f6/original/garlic-rosemary-chicken-schnitzel-with-spanish-cauliflower-rice-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzA3eDUyMiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="522" width="707" /></p>
<p><em> </em></p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411072016-04-16T03:45:16-04:002020-01-05T23:32:23-05:00A Festival of Falafel!
<p style="text-align: left;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Crazy, right?</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">But I had cilantro, and canned chickpeas, and tahini...</p>
<p>So, I processed 1 large can of chickpeas (drained), 1 medium onion (chopped), 5 garlic cloves, a bunch of cilantro, and salt and pepper, until puréed but not smooth.</p>
<p>Then I added a few tablespoons of flour and a teaspoon of baking powder. In 350-375° oil, I fried one ball of the mixture (if it falls apart, don't despair... just add a bit more flour). When the mix was right, I fried 6 balls of the mix at a time, until dark golden brown.</p>
<p>I sprinkled them with salt, and held them in a 350° oven (on a rack over a sheet pan) while I fried the next batch...</p>
<p>I served them atop a plate of shredded lettuce... sprinkled with minced peppers and scallions... and topped it with a sauce made from tahini thinned with water, sweet lime juice, and a splash of sesame oil.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/eaa4eedaa19c239a76cf58884efe0ad99d1f8b53/original/falafel-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTg3eDQ1NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="455" width="587" /></p>
<p>Silly, wonderful meal.</p>
<p>Then, a few days later, I had a crazy idea and decided to give in and experiment.</p>
<p>I sautéed a ton of chopped garlic, added crushed canned tomatoes, salt, pepper, and some ground toasted cumin seeds.</p>
<p>Then I added the crazy part: a few tablespoons of chunky, natural peanut butter (to sorta kinda mimic tahini)! I heated and stirred until the peanut butter was "dissolved," checked for salt, and added a bit of sesame oil and cayenne.</p>
<p>I used this to sauce some farfalle... topped it with a fresh batch of sautéed falafel balls... sprinkled with chives...</p>
<p>And we proceeded to eat a giggle-inducing, wonderfully bizarre, delicious meal.</p>
<p>Proving... If a strange-sounding idea occurs to you... Try it!!!</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a1323f75fb854c738c34819c769c5a5d624cf7ba/original/falafel-2.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjI5eDU0OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="549" width="629" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411052016-04-07T14:58:06-04:002020-01-05T23:32:22-05:00Grilled Salmon with Horseradish Sour Cream and Caviar, Asparagus, and Caraway Cauliflower Purée with Shrimp Cocktail
<p> </p>
<p>OK... I get that the headline seems a bit incongruous. But...</p>
<p>Huge sales on wild-caught salmon and cauliflower!</p>
<p>A gift of a small tin of beautiful American sturgeon caviar!</p>
<p>And the harvest of a gorgeous horseradish root from the thawing soil in our garden!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/734e791e75aeb881b14997b654719392c77c3598/original/horseradish-11-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTY3eDMzOCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="338" width="567" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"> <img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b397c2b33c344186f5eb5cd6b34145855c51d357/original/horseradish-21.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTI5eDQxOCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="418" width="529" /></p>
<p>Our appetizer was just a few perfect shrimp with a cocktail sauce that also boasted a bit of that homegrown horseradish...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8dc5d98ff2e8f5acf26dabfeb1da297fc0a1c45e/original/shrimp-cocktail.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjMweDM2MSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="361" width="630" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/shrimp_cocktail__no_really/" data-imported="1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/shrimp_cocktail__no_really/</em></a></p>
<p>As for the main course, I cooked the cauliflower until soft, puréed it with a bit of cream and caraway seeds, a grate or two of nutmeg, and added salt and pepper.</p>
<p>I EVOO'd, salted and peppered the salmon... Grilled it on the stove until barely BARELY cooked <em>(seriously...all but raw in the center!). </em> Then I grated some of my horseradish root into a bit of sour cream... And added a bit of salt...</p>
<p>Next, on a very hot plate: some purée... barely steamed asparagus... the perfectly grilled salmon... topped with the sour cream... and <em>(this is real pièce de résistance time)</em> a nice healthy dollop of caviar...</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/29209a22f72656a213092316f4fd72a6a900b952/original/grilled-salmon-with-sour-cream-and-caviar-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Njk3eDUxMiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="512" width="697" /></p>
<p>Just ridiculous!!!</p>
<p>Melt in your mouth. Over the top. Any other superlatives you can dream up. Not an indulgence we could afford on our own, but OMG! Served with yet another gift, this time from one of Charlie's clients - a bottle of Veuve Clicquot, the perfect champagne for the perfect meal!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/d9d5455ec4cede3e5a371deb055b83fb5cdcd1d9/original/veuve-clicquot.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDg1eDYwOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="609" width="485" /></p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411042016-04-03T11:12:50-04:002020-01-05T23:32:22-05:00Gigantic Nerd Alert!
<p>Over the next week or so, I'll be posting the progress of an experiment!</p>
<p>Yesterday morning, a stormy Saturday with the patient still at home but making huge strides, I began making my first batch of...</p>
<p>Kimchi.</p>
<p>Yes, really.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/784d01a65dad45cfaac70053ad93417ae68f55e7/original/kimchi-1.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTMzeDQxNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="415" width="533" /></p>
<p>Stay tuned...</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411032016-04-01T08:00:00-04:002020-08-02T17:54:26-04:00Good Old-Fashioned Late-Night Dorm-Style Pepperoni Pizza<p> </p>
<p>'Twas the night before surgery...</p>
<p>AND, as with a birthday dinner, the guest of honor got to choose the meal. He wanted pizza! Not high-toned, epicurean, gourmet-type pizza, but good old stoned-in-the-dorm, 3 AM pepperoni pizza.</p>
<p>And I made it happen.</p>
<p>OK... It was really good pepperoni... fresh mozzarella... real Parmigiano... my tomato sauce... my dough...</p>
<p><a contents="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/basic-pizza-dough" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/basic-pizza-dough">https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/basic-pizza-dough</a></p>
<p>And the unique, surprising pleasures I experience each time I revisit a favorite recipe...</p>
<p><a data-imported="1" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/late-night-dorm-room-munchies-pizza" style="">https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/late-night-dorm-room-munchies-pizza</a></p>
<p>Then at midnight: he had to stop all food, all drink, ALL PAINKILLERS... no water, even.</p>
<p>And by 9:30 that next night, he was the groggy, happy owner of a brand new hip (ingredients: plastic, titanium, and ceramic). Too bad he couldn't have more pizza while he was legally and medically stoned!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/0300147bbd2c53a22d5e125be370939f7e43a5a1/original/pre-surgical-pepperoni-pizza.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzIyeDYxMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="610" width="722" /></p>
<p>But how lucky are we, to live in a time when both his pain and his hip can be replaced!</p>
<p><br> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411022016-03-21T15:35:32-04:002020-01-05T23:32:22-05:00Spring Fish Fry! (Fried Cod and Onion Rings with Tartar Sauce)
<p>Couldn't resist. Huge sales on wild-caught cod, and onions.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c2baad3e00af10e9e2d8fca3c68170ad570ef792/original/fried-cod-with-onion-rings.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjQ1eDY0NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="646" width="645" /></p>
<p>If you want your own...<br><br><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/fish_fry__wildcaught_cod_with_lemon_dill_sauce_and_vidalia_onion_rings/" data-imported="1">http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/fish_fry__wildcaught_cod_with_lemon_dill_sauce_and_vidalia_onion_rings/</a></p>
<p>Enjoy!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410962016-03-09T06:16:18-05:002020-01-05T23:32:22-05:00Stir-Fried Bok Choy with Fried Kimchi, Gochujang, Egg Ribbons and Rice
<p>We were in the mood for a quick Korean feast, so I chopped up some kimchi and fried it in a little olive oil, added some grated ginger and garlic, some baby (actually Shanghai) bok choy, a tablespoon of gochujang and a little white wine, and let it all simmer for a couple of minutes.</p>
<p><em>(As to the amounts of ginger and garlic, always assume that I mean "to taste," that is, "to your taste." Experiment and learn over time what amounts of ginger and garlic make you and your family happy.)</em></p>
<p>I added a tiny bit of my homemade habañero hot sauce. When it was all hot, and tasted exactly the way I wanted it to (!)...</p>
<p>I served it over white rice with ribbons of omelet and chopped scallions on top...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/f2872da6f0c9112fec5fe6892962530413e4dbc2/original/stir-fried-bok-choy-with-gochujang-fried-kimchi-egg-ribbons-and-rice-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Njc2eDUwNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="505" width="676" /></p>
<p>This is the sort of meal that you can vary endlessly: add nuts... other vegetables... shrimp... chicken... beef... really... Endless possibilities! The rice could even be fried in the mixture to make a kimchi fried rice.</p>
<p>AND these ingredients are among nature's best medicines! During the winter, when viruses abound, it's always a good idea to ramp up the garlic, ginger, and hot pepper in your diet. And why buy commercial probiotics when there are fantastic fermented foods like kimchi available?</p>
<p>Try them! Now! You'll thank me, I promise.</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61411002016-02-28T07:00:00-05:002021-01-08T17:11:10-05:00Sunday Gravy (Homemade Bolognese) and Pizza!<p>OK, FINE! So I'm not even remotely Italian-American, much less Italian.</p>
<p>But NYC has been home for decades now... So I'll put this meaty, mock Bolognese up against anyone's!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/95802a953c59d4ef9e8bb9c81642ce4911400f97/original/bolognese-sauce-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDU2eDQyNyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="427" width="456" /></p>
<p>Several weeks ago, cool weather had finally come to Yonkers, so it seemed about time to do a freezer clear-out. <em>What's in <span style="text-decoration:underline">your</span> freezer?</em></p>
<p>There were beef ribs and odds and ends of beef from the magazine. There was a bag of ham trimmings. There was some beef stock. Seemed to me like a perfect moment for a long-simmered meat sauce!</p>
<p>So, I browned the ribs in EVOO, removed them, and added chopped onions, celery, carrots... Browned the vegetables, added back the ribs along with some red wine and a few cans of tomatoes (squished carefully by hand), and let the whole mess simmer for over an hour. Then I fished out the ribs and removed the meat (adding the bones back - because I'm greedy!).</p>
<p>Here's where I make a hard right turn towards Geek: I took the meat from the ribs, along with the mystery pieces of beef from the magazine, and ran them through the meat grinder. I set the ground meat aside.</p>
<p>I tossed some herbs (sage, basil, rosemary) into the sauce. Then I added about 1C milk and continued to simmer... for about an hour. Then I added the ground beef.</p>
<p>Meanwhile, I took all of the ham scraps - fat, bone, skin, etc. - and made a sort of broth... just by simmering it all in water. Then, whenever the sauce got too thick, I stirred in some ham broth. Not remotely traditional (though pork is) but reeeeally tasty.</p>
<p>Always, taste as you go... Add salt and pepper... More herbs if you want... But this sauce will remind you forcefully that a real ragu is a meat sauce flavored with tomato... Not the other way around! And wicked good on a little farfalle!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b71c7d12328196f8012664aabbd031e8d7f04534/original/pasta-bolognese-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDU2eDQ0NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="446" width="456" /></p>
<p>Next: Bolognese Pizza!</p>
<p>Yes, really! I've been using this remarkable meat sauce in myriad ways over the past two weeks. Tonight I wanted a pizza. Ergo...</p>
<p>I sautéed some hot Italian sausage. I added the Bolognese. After it cooled a bit, I spread it on some pizza dough...</p>
<p><em><strong><a contents="Basic Pizza Dough" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/basic-pizza-dough" style="" target="_blank">Basic Pizza Dough</a></strong></em></p>
<p>...spread a <span style="text-decoration:underline"><em>small</em></span> amount of mozzarella on top, and baked it in the usual way.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/04dbece1e8af06caec05a4d2d1ad6d5bc3065b7e/original/bolognese-pizza-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTE5eDQyNyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="427" width="519" /></p>
<p>Wow.</p>
<p>Real sauce beats ersatz any day.</p>
<p> </p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410992016-02-22T14:26:09-05:002020-01-05T23:32:22-05:00Chicken, Shrimp and Andouille Gumbo
<p>It had been frigid all week. No, really, <em>seriously</em> cold... you remember... that weekend it got down to minus 5 here in Yonkers. A few days later, it wasn't nearly as bad, but it was still cold! So I wanted something hot and comforting. There had been huge sales on chicken breasts, Andouille sausage, red peppers, and onions.</p>
<p>I also had a few frozen shrimp and an overabundance of celery. There was even some cooked rice in the fridge from a Thai curry I had made a few days before.</p>
<p>GUMBO!!!!!</p>
<p>So, not unlike Asian dishes... Prep everything before you start!</p>
<p>I chopped: 1 onion, 1 red pepper, some garlic, 3-4 stalks of celery, and 1 andouille.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/31c0893975b03462f79b61aa827279f458a46753/original/gumbo-a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDc0eDQyMiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="422" width="474" /></p>
<p>I thawed and heated a quart of my homemade chicken stock, and tossed in a few hands full of frozen shrimp shells.</p>
<p>Next I got out some bay leaves, and my habañero hot sauce (in place of the wimpy jalapeño called for). Then, in a splash of EVOO, I sautéed the Andouille, removed it... then sautéed the diced chicken breast, just until it started to color <em>(<span style="text-decoration:underline">not</span> cooked through)</em>, and removed it... Then deglazed the pan with a bit of white wine.</p>
<p>I then made a roux with 1/4 C canola oil and 1/4 C AP flour. This is not a typical French roux blond...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/914f7b87835bc8c931243cf0d441c8e87f969976/original/gumbo-b-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzY2eDM1MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="353" width="366" /></p>
<p>Cook it for at least 10 minutes until it is the color of old bricks!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/18db1bc6744ff1249b235e103c0194529db4e023/original/gumbo-c-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzU0eDM4OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="389" width="354" /></p>
<p>I know. It's scary. But keep going, keep whisking...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/08e129ca10a125b8c5e8ec0ab6c47399331cd4f2/original/gumbo-d-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6MzU1eDM5OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="399" width="355" /></p>
<p>It took me about 15 minutes, but I'm a coward and I had the temperature pretty low...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/ef64d4e4b3c42e79ee2481d2cfb9f112bf7baefc/original/gumbo-e-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mzc4eDQwMyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="403" width="378" /></p>
<p>When you can't stand it any more, toss in the onions, celery, garlic, and red peppers, and cook for a few minutes...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/398b21b93f01bd8fe3c2db0a5b4169a0f46d5c4b/original/gumbo-f-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDI4eDM5MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="392" width="428" /></p>
<p>Add 1 C chopped tomatoes and 1/2-3/4 C stock... Bring it to a simmer...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c066c2c2dec0847817d9162fdf8e040790b970c5/original/gumbo-g-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDM1eDQ1NyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="457" width="435" /></p>
<p>Lower the heat and cook for about 20 minutes, then add the sausage and chicken back in. Let it simmer for about 5 minutes. Turn it off until dinner.</p>
<p>When dinner time comes, reheat it, taste for salt, and... in the last minutes, gently poach a few shrimp in the sauce. DO NOT overcook them!</p>
<p>Reheat your rice, scoop the rice into hot bowls, top with the sauce, and garnish with minced scallions and red peppers.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/a9e66f83c68a2b03b1530306e6671dcfb3ed3ede/original/gumbo-3-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDIzeDM3NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="375" width="423" /></p>
<p>Eat! Enjoy! Repeat!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;">GUMBO REDUX!!!</p>
<p>So here's a picture of the original gumbo a few days later...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/f40e1e65f9bf407c11f30eb4e9aaea62e7c88287/original/gumbo-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTg2eDQ4MSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="481" width="586" /></p>
<p>Two things: all stew-type dishes are truly better the next day or the day after, and, when there was a gigantic sale on wild-caught American shrimp, I decided to poach a few and lay them ever so delicately atop the gumbo.</p>
<p>Even better than the original!!!</p>
<p>PS. And the chicken stock I used to poach the shrimp both times (infused with lots of shrimp shells) is now a wildly tasty shrimp broth! A gift that keeps on giving!</p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410982016-02-10T01:39:42-05:002020-01-05T23:32:22-05:00A Romantic Valentine's Day Dinner for Two! (Romaine Salad with Avocado and Hearts of Palm, Chicken Wings with Blue Cheese & Honey, Parmesan Ricotta Dumplings, Lobster Skewers, and Caramel Cakes)
<p>Valentine's Day... Can't live with it, can't live without it!</p>
<p>I'm a big believer in staying home with, and cooking for, the one you love.</p>
<p>This year, I hope you'll check out the delectable recipes I created for Rachael Ray's <em>Every Day..</em>.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/39e090eef422a333cfdf24699cfe9ecf7d50a828/original/valentine-s-issue-every-day-with-rachael-ray-cover2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDYyeDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="462" /></p>
<p>Just click on the <em>Articles</em> tab on the left side of this page, where you'll find a link to the article and all the recipes...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/74ad2d915512dbcae19b5fd56dfb7b93f23f4f1b/original/valentine-s-issue-every-day-with-rachael-ray-page-1a-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDYyeDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="462" /></p>
<p>I love these recipes, but please don't blame me for the names given to them...</p>
<p>And Happy Valentine's Day!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410972016-02-07T13:23:53-05:002020-01-05T23:32:22-05:00Grilled Salmon with Maple Mustard Glaze, Cauliflower "Rice" and Peas
<p>Absolutely ridiculous sale on wild-caught salmon...</p>
<p>So there was no choice.</p>
<p>Oh, AND... A big sale on cauliflower.</p>
<p>So.</p>
<p>I buzzed 1/2 of a cauliflower in the processor until it resembled grains of rice. I then sautéed it in butter and a bit of chicken jus from this past week's roast chicken. <em>(Don't overcook!)</em></p>
<p>I heated a grill pan, then salted, peppered, and EVOO'd the salmon portions... Grilled first on the flesh side, and then on the skin side, about 4 minutes per side. But that's up to you and how "done" you like it! <em>(Hint: less done is better!!!)</em></p>
<p>I steamed some peas.</p>
<p>For the sauce, I whisked some Dijon and some maple syrup <em>(No cooking!)</em> just to pour over the fish once it hit the plate.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/8f07af0c6707ab7d09776dc27983284ac503ab92/original/grilled-salmon-with-maple-mustard-glaze-and-cauliflower-rice-with-peas-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTU3eDQ0MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="440" width="557" /></p>
<p>This was a really remarkable set of tastes...</p>
<p>February ain't so bad after all!!!</p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410952016-01-29T03:08:34-05:002020-01-21T19:16:53-05:00"Indian" Sweet Potato and Kielbasa Curry
<p> </p>
<p>Yes... Really... I just said "Indian" and "Kielbasa" in the same breath.</p>
<p>I was given some kielbasa. I had some sweet potatoes. I had onions and garlic and ginger.</p>
<p>What the hell... Let's visit India!</p>
<p>Brown-fry 4 small onions (sliced in thin strips), and then add tons of minced ginger and minced garlic, along with salt, pepper, your favorite curry blend (I used my own homemade), and a few pinches of ground cumin and coriander... Simmer a while longer to heat and cook the dried spices, but make sure the garlic doesn't brown. Stir in some stock.</p>
<p>Nuke two peeled and (large) diced sweet potatoes in water until they just start to soften. <em>(Check them frequently! Mine took about 7 minutes, but it will depend totally on the size of your dice and the power of your microwave.)</em> Then drain and sauté them until browned a bit and add them to the onion mixture.</p>
<p>Slice some kielbasa into rounds, sauté them until browned on both sides and add them to the onions and sweet potatoes.</p>
<p>At this point, I stirred and decided I needed a bit more stock... Simmered the whole mixture... Served it on rice... Topped with sour cream.</p>
<p>If sweet potatoes sometimes seem too sweet for you, or if the idea of seasoning them with "pumpkin pie spices" turns you off as it does me, this will give you a whole new way of seeing (and eating) them.</p>
<p>No, not really Indian. I mean.. KIELBASA... seriously???</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/39f0cec56c200d13874799b246dc0fbc011908b3/original/indian-sweet-potato-and-kielbasa-curry-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTk5eDUyNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="526" width="599" /></p>
<p>But Oh So So Good... And so easy to vary: add any vegetables that sound good... or hot sauce... or more curry... or less curry...</p>
<p>You get the idea.</p>
<p>And on a frigid night, your body and soul and immune system will thank you!!!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410942016-01-19T01:31:32-05:002020-01-05T23:32:21-05:00Feeling Crabby 2! (Crabmeat with Garlic, Onion, Cayenne, Fried Capers, Pine Nuts, White Wine and Cream on Polenta)
<p style="text-align: left;">When last we spoke, Charlie and I were just finishing off some really tasty Thai crab cakes on a bed of arugula with a vaguely Thai-flavored mayo...</p>
<p style="text-align: left;">Mmmmmmmm...</p>
<p>But the remaining crabmeat would not last another day, so I devised a simple but very flavorful Mediterranean crab "sauce" to serve over soft white polenta. Why white, you ask? Two reasons: one, I like it better than yellow, and two, in Venice, white polenta is generally the Go-To when seafood is part of the dish...</p>
<p>And who am I to argue with the Venetians!?!</p>
<p>I started my typical polenta... 1C white corn meal...</p>
<p><em>(Don't bother with something labeled "polenta..." It'll cost you three times as much. Just use your favorite good white corn meal - stone ground is best - and coarse or fine is up to you... I like fine.)</em></p>
<p>...whisked into 3C whole milk with a pinch of salt and a bay leaf. I start the liquid cold, and nary a lump has ever darkened my polenta door! Cook at a low simmer for about 20-30 minutes while you do other prep... stirring whenever you think to.</p>
<p>In a saucepan, I softened a minced small onion, and a few minced garlic cloves in EVOO. When soft, I added a splash of white wine, salt, pepper, a minced cayenne from our garden (yes... still... no idea why) and let it all simmer away happily.</p>
<p>When the polenta was seconds away from being done, I added a splash of cream and the crab... for just long enough to warm them...</p>
<p>Served it ladled over the polenta, in hot bowls...</p>
<p>Sprinkled with showers of chopped parsley (again... no idea why it's still growing...)</p>
<p>But here's the really fun part: as an extra added garnish, I rinsed off about a tablespoon of salt-packed capers and fried them in a bit of EVOO...</p>
<p>Sprinkle those over the top and stand back! Actually, don't stand back... Dig in!</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3695baf2ed6489516aef020daaf6cc7d4439cdd4/original/crab-on-polenta-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjY4eDM4MCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="380" width="668" /></p>
<p>So. A decadent two days of crab, with enough for Charlie to have some for lunch the next day... Yum!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410932016-01-16T12:53:18-05:002020-01-05T23:32:21-05:00Feeling Crabby! (Thai Crab Cakes)
<p>It's been a wildly busy holiday season. Even after our return from the annual L.A. gig, things didn't slow down... So this past weekend was our first real break!</p>
<p>AND THEN...</p>
<p>We happened to receive a remarkable Christmas present... a pound of crabmeat! Yes, you heard me.</p>
<p>We were too beat to try to entertain, so, Poor Poor Us, I had to figure out a way for two people to eat all that crab ASAP... The definition of a First World Problem, I know.</p>
<p>Obviously, crab cakes were going to happen no matter what. And both of us opted immediately for my awesome Thai version... created a while back and later published by our friend Rita Thompson...</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration:underline"><em>(</em></span><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/thai_crab_cakes/" data-imported="1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/thai_crab_cakes/</em></a><span style="text-decoration:underline"><em>)</em></span></p>
<p>And now, the recipe... which I cut in half in order to serve each of us two beautiful cakes!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><span style="text-decoration:underline">THAI GREEN CURRY CRAB CAKES</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>(Makes 16 hors d'oeuvres or 8 main course-sized cakes)</em></p>
<p>1 Pound lump (not jumbo) fresh crab</p>
<p>1 Rib celery diced very fine</p>
<p>1 Scallion minced very fine (green and white parts)</p>
<p>1 Large egg</p>
<p>1 Tablespoon green curry paste</p>
<p>2 Tablespoons mayonnaise</p>
<p>1/3 C Panko breadcrumbs, plus more for dredging</p>
<p>1/3 C finely shredded Thai (or regular) basil</p>
<p>Unsalted butter and oil for frying</p>
<p>1) Thoroughly combine celery, scallion, egg, curry paste, mayonnaise, Panko, and basil.</p>
<p>2) Add crab, and gently fold in.</p>
<p>3) Form gently into approximately 16 hors d'oeuvre-sized cakes, or eight larger, main course-sized cakes. Allow the cakes to rest in the fridge for about one hour. Just before cooking, dredge in more Panko.</p>
<p>4) For each four small, or two large, cakes, melt 1 T butter in 2 T oil on medium high, and gently fry cakes for approximately two minutes per side, until golden. As there is very little to bind them, these cakes are a bit fragile so handle with care and resist the urge to move them around in the pan a lot. A good non-stick skillet is your best friend here!</p>
<p>5) Serve simply… with a lime wedge, or some mayonnaise mixed with lime juice and more shredded basil. I like to vary my sauces constantly, and this time it consisted of mayo, soy sauce, lime juice, sliced scallions, cilantro, and chopped peanuts.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/30404ff5a2f5070e29a06701ff12950c06f4167e/original/thai-crab-cakes-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Njc5eDQ4OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="489" width="679" /></p>
<p>Notes: If you have a garden or a sunny windowsill… try growing some Thai basil. It's delicious and different enough that the flavor really jumps out at you... but regular Genovese is just fine. In a pinch, I've even used a bit of pesto!</p>
<p>I use EVOO (extra virgin olive oil), but if you want a more neutral taste, use any oil you like.</p>
<p>Believe me when I tell you that these cakes are "handle with care" ...that's the price you pay for really being able to taste the crab. Just fry them gently and don't move them around until they have a chance to set... and turn them over carefully. The taste is worth the trouble!</p>
<p>You can even turn these into tiny cocktail party-sized cakes, but your guests may never want to leave!</p>
<p>Also feel free to add a shot of Tabasco or Sriracha if you'd like a little more heat.</p>
<p>Finally, every store sells some type of green curry paste, but consider a trip to your local Chinatown, or Asian grocery store, for the good stuff!</p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410922016-01-05T14:38:09-05:002020-01-05T23:32:21-05:00Southern "Must Have" New Year's Day Meal... (Parts 1 & 2)
<p>As you all know, I not only spend my life with someone from the South, but this has led to my spending a great deal of my life there. On New Year's Day, I am therefore contractually bound to produce food that includes pork, black-eyed peas, and greens... with cornbread as an accompaniment (though not a "the world will end without it" requirement like the other three).</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/684564aee6bd79027b5c2a71cbc8aa288f796c6f/original/new-year-s-2016-harriet-s-cornbread-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDczeDMxNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="314" width="473" /></p>
<p>Over the years I have modified the various ways I accomplish these... hot Italian sausage being a favorite. But this year, I went even further and split the three Good Luck Foods into two meals. My high priest of all things Southern assures me we will still have silver, greenbacks, and luck, even if the pork is breakfast and the greens and black-eyed peas are dinner.</p>
<p><span style="text-decoration:underline">PART 1 (Breakfast)</span></p>
<p>I made a batch of biscuits. With lard. No arguing! Butter goes on, not in. Period. And Crisco is disgusting. <em>(Stay tuned for my foolproof biscuit recipe!)</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/40ffc162afdbede908ab160b8e6a79b1b33e26fb/original/new-year-s-biscuits-2016-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDg5eDM1MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="353" width="489" /></p>
<p>I thawed a batch of my homemade sage and red pepper breakfast sausage and fried up some patties. <em>(Ditto!)</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/e1ea9af3a00dc651d2fcf57bf18fdf03b23e6683/original/sausage-biscuits-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDk2eDM5NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="395" width="496" /></p>
<p>One of my all-time favorite combos... sausage biscuits.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/2b27a64f8701d1b0cde240dd05c6760b9ce484d7/original/sausage-biscuits-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDk4eDM4MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="382" width="498" /></p>
<p>And... One Required Food crossed off the day's list... Deliciously.</p>
<p> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration:underline">PART 2 (8 Hours Later)</span></p>
<p>During the year, whenever I have garden greens of any type (spinach, kale, collards, arugula, etc.) starting to go, I sauté them briefly and freeze them. That way, when I make a "mess o' greens," they're remarkably complex because of the multiple types. Generally, I sauté an onion, maybe some garlic... toss in the frozen greens... a bit of water or stock if I think it needs it... a hambone or smoked hock... or, lately, just season with my homemade smoked salt and or paprika. At the end a splash of vinegar never hurts. This year, we seasoned the greens with a little of my homemade habañero sauce to help kick us into the new year!</p>
<p>The recipe for the black-eyed peas is almost the same. And no, they don't need soaking.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/010a3fea883402fbdee1efb7e60f9ed202625119/original/new-year-s-2016-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjgyeDUxOCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="518" width="682" /></p>
<p>For more details, including the recipe for Harriet's perfect cornbread, check out last year's post!<br><br><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/new_years_day__greens_blackeyed_peas_sausage_and_corn_bread/" data-imported="1">http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/new_years_day__greens_blackeyed_peas_sausage_and_corn_bread/</a></p>
<p>Happy New Year!</p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410912015-12-30T13:51:40-05:002020-01-05T23:32:21-05:00barbrix: How to Run A Restaurant
<p>As longtime <em>This Old Chef</em> readers know, last December, on our annual crazy trip to L.A. to cook for rich people, we discovered a truly wonderful restaurant - barbrix...</p>
<p><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/my_new_la_hangout__barbrix/" data-imported="1">http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/my_new_la_hangout__barbrix/</a></p>
<p>...when our best friend, screenwriter and chef Deb Stenard, took us there for a Boxing Day dinner after a third <span style="text-decoration:underline">long</span> day in the kitchen.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/6f4f7dde7639d5efd04da3bcc0c57a720b9be3c9/original/barbrix-exterior-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTkyeDU0NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="544" width="592" /></p>
<p>Lovely space, friendly staff, delicious food.</p>
<p>This year, we dared disappointment and went back...</p>
<p>Same lovely space, same friendly, knowledgeable staff, and food that certainly equaled and, in some cases, surpassed, the year before.</p>
<p>But, Dear Readers, what happened next is what separates the men from the boys... the wheat from the chaff... the... you get my drift.</p>
<p>I had ordered grilled Scottish salmon on a celeriac purée. The salmon was perfectly cooked, perfectly seasoned. The celeriac was luscious and silky. There were wild mushrooms and asparagus.</p>
<p>I was in heaven.</p>
<p>But.</p>
<p>There was a green... something... atop the fish. I tasted it. I couldn't tell what it was. That's not a good sign. Sauce, yes... but what? Our server passed by to check on us, and I asked her what it was. She told me it was a charred onion beurre blanc. And, as nicely as I could, I told her I couldn't taste anything at all.</p>
<p>I made it clear how much I love the restaurant and everything else about the salmon dish... that I really wasn't complaining, just pointing out that there was no point to the sauce. She thanked me, and went away.</p>
<p>Within three or four minutes, Vincent Cluzet, one of the managers, and a charming, sexy one at that, was at my side, asking questions. We chatted for a few minutes and, over my protests, he asked my permission to try something to repair the sauce.</p>
<p>A few brief moments elapsed, and he reappeared with a ramekin of sauce. I tasted it.</p>
<p>It sang.</p>
<p>I tasted the onions and the herbs and the butter. Vincent knew that all this sauce needed was seasoning... and he was right! I poured a bit onto my salmon, and what had been a lovely course became a superlative one. The one tiny flaw in the evening had been repaired. Perfectly.</p>
<p>Our love for this place and the folks who put such passion and care into their work redoubled. He didn't need to do this. I mean, we eat there once a year!</p>
<p>But that, Dear Readers, is the kind of care that makes a restaurant great. Yes, I said great. Even though in many respects this is a simple tapas-style place, the care taken by every member of the team makes dining there a great experience.</p>
<p>And because of Vincent's care and attention, everyone who ordered the Scottish salmon after me that night would have the perfect sauce to accompany it.</p>
<p>Bravo, barbrix! That's how you run a restaurant.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.barbrix.com/" data-imported="1">http://www.barbrix.com/</a></p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410892015-12-17T01:51:34-05:002020-01-05T23:32:21-05:00Chicken Pot Pie (Yes, Really!)
<p>I had a thawed chicken breast...</p>
<p>And I had a half-recipe of pie dough from the Thanksgiving pumpkin pie.</p>
<p>It had turned cold, and this was my only free day this weekend.</p>
<p>I wanted comfort times 100... </p>
<p>So I made a velouté (really just a béchamel using stock instead of milk or cream, i.e., make a butter and flour roux... and add boiling stock, in this case, turkey stock). I barely cooked a medium-diced potato... a medium-diced carrot... and a cup of lima beans (well, I didn't have any peas!).</p>
<p>I added a big splash of sherry to the velouté, combined the vegetables and the velouté, and then let it all cool. Next I decided to sauté some diced onions, and added them to the mix. If you're cooking along, now's the time to taste... And add salt and pepper as you like...</p>
<p>Now here's the crazy part: dice the chicken breast (fairly small dice) and add it raw to the mixture. Yes, I said, "raw!" Why cook it twice?</p>
<p>I put all of the veg/chicken and the velouté in an oven-safe dish, topped it with the rolled-out pie crust, egg-washed the crust... And baked it at 400<sup>o</sup> for about 40 minutes...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/7d6097971164e9388d267f70c074a9b1a7e1f0d9/original/chicken-pot-pie-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTgxeDQ1NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="456" width="581" /></p>
<p>Make sure some of the sauce is bubbling out of the crust...</p>
<p>Portion it out on very hot plates... Sprinkle with minced parsley... You may want a bit of salt...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/0f937913610e5d2ce95c1a130e1802a129725f6b/original/chicken-pot-pie-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTk3eDQzNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="435" width="597" /></p>
<p>This is comfort food to the nth degree! And perfect for a cold December night!</p>
<p>(Assuming, of course, that we have another one...)</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410882015-11-29T02:44:02-05:002020-01-05T23:32:21-05:00A Remains of the Day Classic (Turkey Hash!)
<p style="text-align: left;"> </p>
<p style="text-align: left;">THE use... THE comfort food... using the remains of the turkey... probably my personal fave... because when all is said and done, I'm a Midwesterner who's Irish on all sides (and I do mean ALL sides).</p>
<p>Hash.</p>
<p>So this version was sautéed cubes of potato, sautéed onions and celery, the last of the white meat, cubed, some dried sage from the garden, LOTS of pepper, a bit of smoked salt, and the last few spoonsful of gravy. Topped it with some sour cream and a scattering of chopped scallions.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/9e51c75986cdeff6a5a94fb812c56603f8780f63/original/turkey-hash-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTA0eDQxNiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="416" width="504" /></p>
<p>Delicious. And a fitting way to say goodbye to the Thanksgiving feast...</p>
<p>And now it's full steam ahead into DECEMBER!!!</p>
<p><em>(First posted on December 14, 2012)</em> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410872015-11-28T03:14:33-05:002020-01-05T23:32:21-05:00More Remains of The Day! (Turkey & Sage Risotto)
<p> </p>
<p>I love risotto. Period.</p>
<p>From my first taste YEARS ago, right up until today. But... I don't like the idea of risotto as a dumping ground. If you want to add things... there's a method. Therefore...</p>
<p>I had great turkey stock from the Thanksgiving bird... I had beautifully cooked turkey breast... I had chopped onions... So...</p>
<p>I started as I would any risotto: I sautéed the onions in EVOO... added the Arborio rice and some chopped sage... added some white wine... and then began the gradual additions of hot turkey stock (augmented with a bit of hot water because the stock was VERY strong), and, at the last moment, I added diced turkey... then a large (2 T) piece of unsalted butter... turned off the heat and added Grana Padano.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/996b03568f822a68d40cbd89bab208cac5083658/original/turkey-risotto-with-sage-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjQ5eDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="649" /></p>
<p>This is comfort food to the Nth degree... and it in no way tasted like...</p>
<p>The dreaded... L WORD!!!</p>
<p> <em>(First posted November 28, 2012)</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410862015-11-27T03:15:42-05:002020-01-05T23:32:21-05:00The Remains of the Day Redux (Turkey Curry with Coconut Milk, Gravy, Dressing, Habañero Sauce and White Rice)
<p style="text-align: center;"> </p>
<p>This is Charlie's favorite use for "repurposed" turkey... curry.</p>
<p>Brown-fry some onions, add lots of garlic and ginger, then add a bit of the stock you made from the carcass. Add your favorite curry powder (homemade REALLY is the best) and a can of coconut milk. I also add some dressing (stuffing) and a few tablespoons of gravy. A shot of your favorite hot sauce (I use my homemade habañero sauce) helps. At the last minute, add some diced dark meat, and a cup or so of diced fried potatoes and serve over rice.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c444238d5b655390041c0370bd8c56dcb7226898/original/turkey-curry-with-potatoes-sour-cream-and-white-rice-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDExeDM0OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="348" width="411" /></p>
<p>You'll never know it was Turkey "THE L WORD"!</p>
<p><em>(First posted November 28, 2012)</em></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410852015-11-24T03:41:40-05:002020-01-05T23:32:21-05:00Happy Thanksgiving! (Throwback!)
<p> </p>
<p><em>Remembering a wonderful Thanksgiving from a couple of years ago...</em></p>
<p><em>I loved this part!</em></p>
<p>HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!</p>
<p>In honor of the Founding Father who wanted the turkey to be declared our national symbol because the eagle was a bird "not of good moral character..."</p>
<p>I thought you'd get a kick out of this shot of me as Ben Franklin in the recent Connecticut Rep production of Theresa Rebeck's <em>O Beautiful</em> directed by Joe Hanreddy...</p>
<p> </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/47806f6164790e1b617f320e42ef0caf5411a396/original/david-as-ben-franklin-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDAweDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="400" /></p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410842015-11-21T13:24:33-05:002020-01-05T23:32:21-05:00Norman Rockwell Redux! A True Thanksgiving Turkey Triumph!
<p><em>I rarely re-post, but this post from last Thanksgiving was one of the most popular in the history of This Old Chef...</em></p>
<p><em>Trust me, dear readers, this is the flavorful turkey you want to serve your family!</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b854394d396ae006f20f040cefacc346a94b4dd8/original/spatchcocked-turkey-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6Mzc4eDI0OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="248" width="378" /></p>
<p>All that actually means is...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/2e5f5d0cb672c69f8a2e2e59c31a1cd7c849f0a1/original/turkey-s-backbone-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTA0eDM4NiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="386" width="504" /></p>
<p>I cut out the backbone, then made a little slit on the membrane covering the keel bone, flipped the bird over, pushed down until I heard a fairly loud snap... and then roasted it on a cookie-cooling-type rack set in a sheet pan at 450 for 85-90 minutes.</p>
<p>And that, as they say, was that.</p>
<p>Crisp mahogany skin, juicy dark AND white meat... with no basting, no flipping, no nuthin'.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3d9af4e43ba1e74ba0b893fb804d0bcd79000149/original/out-of-the-oven-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTY3eDQwNSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="405" width="567" /></p>
<p>Does it look like Norman Rockwell? Absolutely not. It looks a little more like Norman Rockwell ran it over with his car... but I've never been a fan of carving the bird in the dining room anyway.</p>
<p>We had mashed potatoes, peas, cranberry chutney, sage dressing using my homemade bread (seriously... it's as big a revelation as fresh sage), and quite possibly my finest gravy to date (partly because the base was my homemade chicken stock simmered with the neck, backbone, and giblets... except the liver).</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/7f9679d933ea38e129933d5593da44ac34b243af/original/thanksgiving-42-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjEyeDQ5NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="494" width="612" /></p>
<p>A wonderful evening by the fire... a 12-pound turkey cooked in 90 minutes... How lucky can you get!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/3f14f8cfc5f1f2580e48e0cf9a7e693a96eacc53/original/thanksgiving-33-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTk4eDgwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="800" width="598" /></p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410832015-11-19T08:07:58-05:002020-01-05T23:32:20-05:00Seasoning the Weeks Ahead! And Forgetting About "The L Word"!
<p>As soon as November arrives, we're all inundated with TV shows, magazines, newspaper articles, and internet newsletters/posts/blogs, etc., telling us - down to the second - How to "Do" Thanksgiving! I won't add to that tsunami of info... I'm guessing most of you already know how to do <em><span style="text-decoration:underline">your</span></em> Thanksgiving.</p>
<p>But what I will do, because I think it might help, is gather up some of the <em>TOC</em> "Days After Thanksgiving" posts... to remind you of some fun ideas for what to do with what's not completely consumed on The Day!</p>
<p>And, just as a reminder: don't ever use the dreaded "L" word. Think of all that gorgeously cooked food in your fridge as though you had a <em>sous chef</em> at work in your kitchen...</p>
<p>Ready to help...</p>
<p>And ready to cut down your workload at the stove!</p>
<p>So here are some satisfying, house-'n'-heart-warming dishes and posts from the past to give you a headstart... Just think how much more your family will love you in the days <em>after</em> Thanksgiving..</p>
<p><em><span style="text-decoration:underline"><span style="color:#008000">The L Word (for Leftovers) or The Remains of the Day</span></span></em></p>
<p>No one finishes the Thanksgiving meal.</p>
<p>There are always containers of... remaining food.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/288156147eaa22023f57709f305de3ea7c109cd2/original/leftovers-copy2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NDI3eDMxNCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="314" width="427" /></p>
<p>What to do? Dump everything in a pot and call it soup? YUCK.</p>
<p>Instead of thinking of <em>The L Word</em> as some "used" food you need to get rid of... I think of "them" as if I have a <em>sous chef</em> who's already started preparing things for me to use.</p>
<p>Meats and vegetables can go into sauces, stuffings, "cakes," stews to top pastas or polenta...</p>
<p>Or mashed potatoes can top Shepherd's Pie... or thicken soups.</p>
<p>A salad can be added to cooked greens. A piece of cooked salmon is the base for a great salmon salad... a salmon cake... or hash. And though hash has a reputation as a dumping ground for "remains," with a little care it can be better than the original dish!</p>
<p>If you have a little bit of sauce left from a meat dish, add it to some day-old rice for a totally new side. All it takes is a little imagination, and these "pre-prepared" treasures are just advanced <em>mise en place!</em></p>
<p>So... I'm starting a campaign to remove the word "leftovers" from the language... Too Much Baggage.</p>
<p>From now on it's "THE L WORD," (with apologies to my dear friends in the Lesbian community)...</p>
<p>...Or <em>The Remains of the Day!</em></p>
<p><span style="color:#008000"><em><span style="text-decoration:underline">Turkey Sandwiches on Homemade Bread... with Crunchy Potatoes!</span></em></span></p>
<p>Turkey sandwiches! One of America's great contributions to world cuisine...</p>
<p>I had homemade bread that I'd made for the dressing... I had arugula... I had mayonnaise... and white meat from the Thanksgiving turkey.</p>
<p>Perfect.</p>
<p>But one must have potato chips! And I had no interest in a trip to the store. So...</p>
<p>Mashed potato croquettes!!!</p>
<p>I sautéed a bit of scallion, added it to mashed potatoes, tossed in some chives, a bit of flour, a teaspoon of baking powder, an egg, some Parmesan, salt and pepper... Then I rolled balls of the mixture in flour, then egg, then fresh breadcrumbs (made from some day-old baguette), and fried them in EVOO until puffed and golden brown...</p>
<p>They were served alongside these perfect sandwiches with a dollop of chive sour cream...</p>
<p>Who needs potato chips?!?!?</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/b09f9e0260057a8bacad4ed54686cbd82ba0b219/original/turkey-and-arugula-sandwich-on-homemade-wheat-bread-and-potato-croquettes-with-chive-sour-cream-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTU5eDQwOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="409" width="559" /></p>
<p style="text-align: left;"> </p>
<p><span style="text-decoration:underline"><em><span style="color:#008000">Turkey Sandwiches on Homemade Bread with Potato Pancakes and Cranberry Chutney</span></em></span></p>
<p>Dinner the day after Thanksgiving... ALMOST my favorite use for white meat... the only sandwich to seriously challenge the BLT for the crown... the TURKEY SANDWICH (needs a better name, though)...</p>
<p>Slices of my good homemade bread (1 cup of WW flour and 7 cups of AP), lavish slatherings of mayo... salt, pepper, and of course, Food Police Be Damned... ICEBERG LETTUCE. Perhaps a side of cranberry chutney...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/6c0c03742a5e1897292aa8900f30d827115eb965/original/turkey-sandwich-on-homemade-bread-with-potato-pancakes-and-cranberry-chutney-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjQzeDU2NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="565" width="643" /></p>
<p>And this year, mashed potato cakes with scallions, cheddar, and 1 egg white. Not quite sure what it is about the turkey, mayo, iceberg combo... plus REALLY good bread... but it sure does work!</p>
<p><em><span style="text-decoration:underline"><span style="color:#008000">So THAT'S Why They Call It The Staff of Life! (Perfect Homemade Bread)</span></span></em></p>
<p>Sometimes I just want white bread. OK, not squishy, icky, boring white bread. But the kind of white bread that reminds you why people gave up all of the texture and nutrients of whole wheat to begin with...</p>
<p>So I set out to do some tinkering with my basic hearty white loaf recipe. And the tinkering was pretty simple... I just replaced about a quarter of a cup of AP flour with a quarter of a cup of whole wheat. All this did was add enough depth that the bread stopped being just a vessel, and became a player in its own right. It had a little oomph... but it was still a bread that didn't overpower other ingredients...</p>
<p>Like... say... oh, I don't know... turkey... bacon and... hmmmmmmmmmmm... lettuce and... maybe some tomato?</p>
<p>Or just toasted with butter?</p>
<p>Sigh...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/728d0994ebe461e9ea6d4d57f20f6cc85bb48336/original/hearty-white-loaves-copy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTkzeDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="593" /></p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410822015-11-14T11:41:29-05:002020-01-21T19:16:48-05:00Hazelnut Chocolate Bark with Sea Salt
<p>No, I'm not generally a big sweets guy.</p>
<p>But as I mentioned last week, I recently received some lovely gifts of hazelnuts and bittersweet chocolate chips...</p>
<p>And didn't want to make cookies.</p>
<p>Hmmmmmm...</p>
<p>Chocolate bark! The easiest candy in the world. Especially when using chips (no need to temper!)!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/257f7fea358649c288a5e6d0ff9e914ba0f87b8c/original/hazelnut-chocolate-bark-with-sea-salt-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjIweDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="620" /></p>
<p>As an experiment, I put about 2C chips in a microwave-safe bowl. In 30-second bursts, I melted-stirred-melted-stirred until the chocolate was smooth. I poured the mixture onto a silpat (silicone baking sheet), smoothed it out to about 1/4 inch thickness, sprinkled roughly chopped hazelnuts on top, and then scattered some good coarse sea salt on top. After it hardened, I broke it into shards.</p>
<p>It's giggle-inducing good... and simple as pie.</p>
<p>OK, actually simpler than pie.</p>
<p>Try it. Change it. Top with other things. Use different chocolates. Swirl different chocolates together. And be sure to let me know how it works for you!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/eee25471952def4d16501462ffabfb190b79a1d2/original/hazelnut-chocolate-bark-with-seal-salt-32-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjA1eDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="605" /></p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410812015-11-07T12:42:44-05:002020-01-05T23:32:20-05:00Hazelnut Encrusted Chicken with Hazelnut Sage Sauce, Chive Mashed Potatoes and Pan-roasted Corn
<p>I recently came into possession of some lovely hazelnuts.</p>
<p>This is my favorite nut... bar none.</p>
<p>So I processed a bit of bread (yes, homemade, so sue me)...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/5b1f84d48b61e22b921678a8589c94601dd81343/original/perfect-slices-of-bread-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTMweDM3NSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="375" width="530" /></p>
<p>With a handful of nuts...</p>
<p>And used this to bread the pounded chicken breasts to make schnitzel...</p>
<p><em>(</em><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/schnitzel_redux_sandy_be_damned/" data-imported="1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/schnitzel_redux_sandy_be_damned/</em></a><em>)</em></p>
<p>And then sautéed them.</p>
<p>For a sauce, I processed another handful of hazelnuts with 5-6 chopped sage leaves, sautéed the mixture in a bit of butter, deglazed the pan with white wine, added a bit of chicken broth and salt/pepper. When the schnitzels were done, I removed them from the pan and tossed the sauce in to deglaze THAT pan...</p>
<p>Tasted for S & P... pan-roasted some corn... mashed some potatoes, sprinkled them with chopped chives...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/364ad37dd269268f5ca88934e3c133d8928be181/original/hazelnut-encrusted-chicken-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzEzeDUzOSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="539" width="713" /></p>
<p>Heaven on A Plate.</p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410802015-10-25T11:27:14-04:002020-01-05T23:32:20-05:00The Last Hand-Pounded Pesto of the Season (with Fresh Pasta and An Heirloom Tomato Salad!)
<p>I'm as lazy as most people when it comes to pesto... I usually use the food processor...</p>
<p>But a few times a year, I pound it! The flavor really is different.</p>
<p>Basil, garlic, parsley, sea salt, and nuts (this time, I used walnuts). Pound the %^*# out of this mixture with the mortar and pestle of your choice. Stir in copious amounts of really good EVOO... Add as much Parmigiano (or Grana Padano of your choice) as you wish. Dilute with a little pasta water. Toss with great pasta (homemade...</p>
<p> </p>
<p><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/fresh_pasta_without_eggs/</em></p>
<p>... or store bought). Add more cheese...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c5e676421034d253fa0141d55a23f4a7495fb1a1/original/fresh-pasta-pesto-with-heirloom-tomato-salad-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjU1eDQ3OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="478" width="655" /></p>
<p>And be glad you live in a world that includes pesto!!!</p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410792015-10-18T13:55:10-04:002020-01-05T23:32:20-05:00Pasta with Chicken, Cauliflower, Caraway and Chives
<p>No, I didn't plan on an "All-C" dinner...</p>
<p>But I had some roast chicken... and some cauliflower... there are still chives growing in the garden... and caraway is my go-to spice with cauliflower...</p>
<p>And I wanted pasta... so here's the result!</p>
<p>I buzzed some cauliflower in the Cuisinart...</p>
<p> </p>
<p><em>(http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/salmon_with_cauliflower_pure_and_green_zebra_caprese)</em></p>
<p>and sautéed it in a bit of EVOO until it started to soften and color. I added a healthy sprinkling of caraway seeds, then I remembered that <em>there was some <span style="text-decoration:underline">gravy</span></em> from the roast chicken dinner!</p>
<p>In. It. Went.</p>
<p>Next I added the (cubed) roast chicken, but I felt the need for a bit more sauce, so I made a mini-batch of béchamel with about 1T butter and an equal amount of flour. And then I added some milk...</p>
<p> </p>
<p><em>(http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/shepherds_pie/)</em></p>
<p>Once cooked, I added that to the cauliflower/chicken mix. I poured this mixture onto almost cooked farfalle... Continued to cook for a bit until the pasta was ready... Tossed in a bit of Parmigiano and some pasta water... Tasted for salt and pepper... Plated it in hot bowls... and sprinkled chopped chives on top.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c527ab8fff0a104c65dbced8c3dfab5f165db099/original/pasta-with-chicken-cauliflower-caraway-and-chives-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjU1eDQ3OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="478" width="655" /></p>
<p> A totally new dinner for us, but absolutely delicious! Familiar flavors combined in an unfamiliar way...</p>
<p>Look in your fridge... A new favorite is waiting!</p>
<p><br></p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410782015-10-12T00:06:48-04:002020-01-05T23:32:20-05:00Vegetarian Heaven! (Fresh Orecchiette with Broccoli Rabe and Fried Chickpeas)
<p>Great deals at the market on broccoli di rape and chickpeas...</p>
<p>Sage in the garden...</p>
<p>A desire for pasta.</p>
<p>I drained and rinsed a large can of chickpeas. I fried them in EVOO until they started to brown...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c0d26f825e28499f44ba925653c638b9709c3d1e/original/frying-chickpeas-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjU2eDQ2OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="469" width="656" /></p>
<p>Then I drained them again and set them aside. I sautéed 1 bunch of broccoli rabe, trimmed, adding 5 cloves of garlic, minced, and a few sage leaves, chopped, until they all started to soften...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/e63708b3b731763c14a99b4064285df53825bed2/original/chickpeas-and-broccoli-rabe-in-the-pan-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjU1eDQ3OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="478" width="655" /></p>
<p>Next I added 1/2C dry white wine and let it all simmer...</p>
<p>I made a batch of orecchiette and cooked them until 3/4 done. I added the pasta to the broccoli rabe mixture, along with some reserved pasta water, and allowed the pasta to finish cooking.</p>
<p>Just before serving, I added a large handful of Parmigiano!</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/17f587397b243c64ab0610e963234b12956461c3/original/fresh-orecchiette-with-broccoli-rabe-and-fried-chickpeas-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjMzeDQ5MiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="492" width="633" /></p>
<p>This was a remarkably hearty meal but it proved, once again, that meat need not be included... even if you want a "meaty" meal!</p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410772015-10-04T08:00:00-04:002020-09-01T21:30:42-04:00Thai Green Curry Chicken with Baby Bok Choy and Brown Rice<p> </p>
<p>As a variation on my usual Thai green curry...</p>
<p><em><a contents="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/thai-turkey" data-link-label="" data-link-type="url" href="https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/thai-turkey" style="">https://thisoldchef.com/blogs/blog-recipes/posts/thai-turkey</a></em></p>
<p>...I sliced up some baby Bok Choy, and added it instead of the usual green peas or lima beans, then substituted the turkey tenderloin with some chicken breast poached in that aromatic coconut milk/chili paste sauce...</p>
<p>Not the same. But a very successful experiment... and not geographically incorrect either!</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/78447c1b2019be2a459cc05dcd3823857f942e11/original/thai-green-curry-with-bok-choy-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjUyeDYwMCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="600" width="652" /></p>This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410762015-10-01T15:03:31-04:002020-01-05T23:32:20-05:00Snack Time! (Fried Chickpeas!)
<p> </p>
<p>Sometimes, a strong, spicy, salty snack is an absolute must. And if there's nothing in the cupboard...</p>
<p>Experiment!</p>
<p>I drained a big can of chickpeas (one of the few canned things I always have on hand)...</p>
<p>Rinsed them... dried them.</p>
<p>I heated a few tablespoons of olive oil in a non-stick skillet... Added the chick peas. After a few minutes, they started to turn golden...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/23042c8a5ea42ce919cfb5129e5575428846517e/original/fried-chickpeas-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjYweDYwNyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="607" width="660" /></p>
<p>And I added some curry powder, cayenne, and cumin. When those became really fragrant, I salted liberally and scooped them out onto paper towels.</p>
<p>Upon tasting... they needed a bit more salt... so I added it...</p>
<p>And we ate them like there was no tomorrow. (That's the only problem with these: betcha can't eat just one!!!)</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/2f6624a369190d44d32d6e07ed1439c5a64e89f4/original/fried-chickpeas-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NzA5eDUyMiJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="522" width="709" /></p>
<p>And curry is just the first of many variations!</p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410752015-09-26T15:55:43-04:002020-01-05T23:32:20-05:00Heirloom Tomato Panini with Cherry Tomato Salad
<p>A bit of baguette from the other night...</p>
<p>Green Zebra heirloom tomatoes overflowing in the garden...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/1b5e33884779b5b6cf4e1e2795f438291e03043e/original/zebras-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjA3eDQ0OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="448" width="607" /></p>
<p>Basil reinvigorated from the latest pesto harvest...</p>
<p>Gorgeous mozzarella from a trip to Teitel Bros. on Arthur Avenue...</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/78b78094818b0e29a5a8c59aa13721efc1d62d6a/original/zebra-panini-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjQ1eDQ4OCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="488" width="645" /></p>
<p>Panini!!!</p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410742015-09-20T15:00:21-04:002020-01-05T23:32:20-05:00Ginger Chili Chicken Stir-fry with Jalapeños, Scallions and Brown Rice
<p>For some unknown reason today, the phrase "Ginger Chili Chicken" popped up in my mind and I was transported back to my catering days in the '80s. It was an hors d'oeuvre we served constantly...</p>
<p>So I started thinking about that flavor combo...</p>
<p>I cut a chicken breast into small chunks, and put it in a bowl with some garlic, ginger, soy sauce, a splash of vodka, and a bit of minced (incendiary) red jalapeño from the garden.</p>
<p>I fried some ginger matchsticks.</p>
<p>I sliced a few scallions.</p>
<p>Now, don't hate me, but I'm beginning to agree with the folks who say a regular round-bottomed wok is kind of pointless on a typical Western stove. So my stir-frying is now happening in a big frying pan.</p>
<p>I heated some oil... added the chicken and the marinade... fried for a few moments... added the scallions... added the remaining jalapeño... and added the matchsticks just before serving it over hot brown rice.</p>
<p>Wow.</p>
<p><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/7385d08a322af1d73e75c4dc542bde2fb049751b/original/ginger-chili-2-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AW10%3D.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" /></p>
<p>Not the cute timid hors d'oeuvre from the '80s... trust me. Try this.</p>
<p>Be prepared to sweat.</p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410732015-09-12T15:08:14-04:002020-01-05T23:32:20-05:00frische Kürbisravioli mit Kürbiskernöl und kleinen Tomaten aus dem Garten (Fresh Pumpkin Ravioli with Pumpkinseed Oil and Homegrown Cherry Tomatoes)
<p>The annual pumpkin harvest in Austria is starting to get under way... And not for jack o' lanterns, either!!!</p>
<p>The Austrians can and do make almost anything out of pumpkins. But the crown jewel is Kürbiskernöl, the blindingly electric green pumpkinseed oil from Styria. I know I've mentioned this to you before, but last night, I may have reached a new height.</p>
<p>I know Charlie gets homesick for Vienna every year in the fall. He was there only once... for three months in 2006... but hey, who am I to question?</p>
<p>This year is no exception. Yesterday, he sent me a menu from Mayer am Pfarrplatz <em>(</em><a href="http://www.pfarrplatz.at/en/startseite.html" data-imported="1"><em>http://www.pfarrplatz.at/en/startseite.html</em></a><em>)</em>, his favorite Heurige, which is essentially a restaurant in a vineyard or farm where people flock to drink new wine and gorge on pumpkin... well... pumpkin everything!</p>
<p>So I decided a surprise was in order.</p>
<p>I made pasta dough... <em>(</em><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/fresh_pasta_without_eggs/" data-imported="1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/fresh_pasta_without_eggs/</em></a><em>)...</em></p>
<p>I made ricotta... <em>(</em><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/homemade_ricotta_with_fresh_herbs/" data-imported="1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/homemade_ricotta_with_fresh_herbs/</em></a><em>)</em>...</p>
<p>I found a can of pumpkin... OK, fine, no self-respecting Austrian would use canned... And our pumpkins are not the same as those grown in Styria...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/d74a8f6fe10e743dad731a6fda36e97995110603/original/styrian-pumpkins.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTc5eDQ4MyJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="483" width="579" /></p>
<p>I mixed about 1/2 C ricotta with about 1/2 C pumpkin... added some salt and pepper... and a bit of grated Parmigiano. I rolled the dough out thin and stuffed and cut the ravioli: <em>(</em><a href="http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/spinach_ravioli/" data-imported="1"><em>http://www.thisoldchef.com/blog.html/spinach_ravioli/</em></a><em>)</em>.</p>
<p>After gently cooking and draining the ravioli, I "anointed" them with some pumpkinseed oil from Graz, and showered the dish with more Parmigiano. The tart cherry tomatoes from our garden cut the richness beautifully.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c1f23cb64f619b23100de92abfc28a6261c3daa0/original/pumpkin-ravioli-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjMxeDUwMSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="501" width="631" /></p>
<p>We may not have eaten this in a Heurige in Heiligenstadt, but I think his homesickness was assuaged for at least one more year!</p>
<p> </p>
This Old Cheftag:thisoldchef.org,2005:Post/61410722015-09-09T15:09:44-04:002020-01-05T23:32:20-05:00Kiesel Caprese with Homemade Baguettes
<p> </p>
<p>It's the first All-Kiesel Caprese of the year...</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/c08e6c36800a93622525bcb437780512158bbe31/original/caprese-1-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NjMyeDM5NCJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="394" width="632" /></p>
<p>Therefore I felt the need to make some demi-baguettes.</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img src="//d10j3mvrs1suex.cloudfront.net/u/425591/ac276b9fc34947621ffc123560d27025e914e7f7/original/david-s-baguettes-resized.jpg/!!/b%3AWyJyZXNpemU6NTY2eDU4OSJd.jpg" class="size_orig justify_inline border_" alt="" height="589" width="566" /></p>
<p>Worth every minute!</p>
<p>PS. OK, there is one shy Green Zebra peeking around its rich red Czech friend...</p>
<p> </p>
This Old Chef